Necessary aquarium equipment. How to choose aquarium equipment

06.06.2019

Aquarium tools and inventory!

In this article, let's talk about the equipment and tools that we use in our daily aquarium life. We think that this article will be primarily of interest to novice aquarists, and experienced aquarists may learn something new for themselves.

Our aquarium life is not only made up of an aquarium, filters, heaters and lighting. In addition, there are a lot of devices that help us maintain the aquarium. Let's talk about them!

So, the entire aquarium toolkit can be divided into: a standard set and individually specific.

The standard set includes: buckets, cloths, sponges, brushes, brushes, scrapers, siphons, hoses, etc.

To individually-specific: lily pipe, feeders, scissors, tweezers, diffusers, aquarium tests, etc.

Standard set of aquarium inventory.

The set is quite simple, however, many beginners make fatal mistakes when choosing it. Let's take a look at the main aspects.

Buckets for aquarium water.

We need buckets to drain the "old water" from the aquarium, as well as to settle fresh tap water. Buckets and others must not react with water. They must not be zinc, copper, aluminium, painted or coated. All this will be oxidized by water, get into the aquarium, cause imbalance and death of hydrobionts.

Aquarium dishes should be neutral - enameled or inert plastic.

Cloths and sponges for the aquarium.

They are essential for cleaning aquarium walls, both inside and out. For this, rags and sponges from a household chemicals store are perfect, such as:

By the way, such sponges do an excellent job with most types of plaque on the walls of the aquarium, better than some magnetic scrapers.

Aquarium brushes, brushes.

They help us clean filter hoses, UV sterilizers and others. A trifle, but a necessary thing.

aquarium scrapers.

Their selection is varied...

For small aquariums, a magnetic scraper is quite suitable, and for large ones too. However, they do not clean off algae as effectively as blade scrapers.

Whatever scraper you have, it is very important to work with it carefully, especially near the bottom. Those. so that sand or pebbles do not fall under them and thereby scratch the aquarium wall.

Siphons and hoses for the aquarium.

Their choice is great - large, small, with useful options, and even entire Pit systems. We communicate in detail about siphons on our forum, who is interested in this issue, you are welcome -.

Individually-specific inventory for the aquarium.

Lily pipes.

Most recently there was an article about them, we will not repeat ourselves, see.

Aquarium feeders.

There is a wide variety here. From simple to live food:

to specific. For example, auto feeders. There is a good article about them -.

Also, for example, there are individual shrimp feeders.

Why are they needed, you ask? Yes, indeed, shrimp do an excellent job with food without saucers. But if you have a lot of them and want to see a curious action when a crowd of shrimp gather in one pile ... then this plate is for you.

In addition, if pure shrimp are contained, such a supply of food on a dish partly allows you to keep the aquarium clean - the food does not spread all over the aquarium, but is served, so to speak, for its intended purpose.

Aquarium diffusers.

This niche is also full of variety - glass, plastic, iron, atomizers, etc.

It can be conditionally divided into "tight and weak". Tight ones are pressed through only by the CO2 balloon system, but give more finely dispersed bubbles. Weak diffusers can be pushed through by creating a slight pressure. For example, most glass bells are easily pressed through with homemade installations.

From the "tight" we can give an example - a fluvalovsky diffuser.

Or such Dici.

As you already understood, diffusers are designed to diffuse carbon dioxide in planted aquariums. From CO2, plants take the main building element of their body - carbon (C). The smaller the CO2 bubbles, the better the gas will dissolve in water.

Forum topics about diffusers: , .

Scissors and tweezers for the aquarium.

The variety of these tools allows us to tailor them to our individual needs. We plant and cut plants with them, and the choice of tools depends on what kind of herbalist we have (ground cover, Dutchman).

Aquarium tests.

We talked about them in detail in this one.

Here we will only write that the tests allow us to keep abreast and always monitor the processes that take place in the aquarium.

In fact, there are a lot of small things in the aquarium and, probably, you can’t list them all. Finally, we suggest looking at interesting glass vases for aquarium plants.

They can be filled with soil, planted plants and attached to the walls of the aquarium. An interesting enough solution for those who, for example, want to make the aquarium gardens of Babylon!

You can find a huge selection of aquarium equipment at the partner of our site - in the ReefTime.ru online store. By the way, a good assortment of company inventory has recently appeared in the store. Dici. So, hurry up to order and don't forget that the store offers all FanFishki members a 3% discount on any group of goods. You just have to register on the forum and when communicating with the store, inform that you are our forum member.

Not a single home pond, even the smallest one with unpretentious inhabitants, can do without a minimum amount of aquarium equipment. And there is nothing even to think about the maintenance of special species of plants and fish in plain unenriched water with a natural unregulated level of light and temperature. Let's look at the necessary equipment for an aquarium that provides favorable living conditions.

Water enrichment

Plants are responsible for the amount of oxygen in water, just like on land. But even if you plant the entire aquarium, oxygen may not be enough for the full existence of living creatures in it. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a compressor. Compressor equipment is:

Internal installation. They are silent, but they take up space in the aquarium and spoil the whole decor. But it can be corrected by planting the apparatus with plants.
Externally installed units create a lot of noise during operation, which is very disturbing at night.

Which model exactly depends on the size of the aquarium and your personal preferences.

Water filtration

The necessary equipment for the aquarium also includes a filtration system in its kit. It is necessary to ensure that the water quality is as comfortable as possible for fish, plants and other living creatures. Without filters, they will not be easy to get sick, but they will not last long. And so, there are two types of compressors designed for different sizes of aquariums:

External are intended for containers with a volume of more than 300 liters. They are a remote device with a purification system and tubes that descend into the aquarium. In addition to cleansing, they create a current that will be very strong in a small aquarium.
Internal are compact flasks with a filter that purifies water qualitatively. In addition, they are more economical.

When buying, start from the capacity and the availability of the replacement filters themselves.

Water heating

The fish that we are used to seeing in aquariums are heat-loving creatures that live in warm tropical water. Since in our northern conditions one cannot get one, it is necessary to bring the temperature regime as close as possible to the natural one. To do this, there is a special equipment for the aquarium - a water heater. It not only heats up, but also maintains a certain degree of water all the time. Which one you need to choose is up to you, and the choice will depend on personal preferences. In any case, this is not a consumable, but equipment that will last for a single year.

To protect your underwater pets from an unexpected breakdown of the automatic water heater, which can cost them their lives, be sure to purchase a thermometer. Today, aquarium thermometers have all sorts of modifications, but the optimal ones are those that represent a small adhesive strip with a scale and a mercury level.

Lighting

Whatever living creatures, she just needs light, and some individuals even at night. Keeping aquariums on the window is strongly discouraged, which is why artificial lighting is organized. For its arrangement, special lamps are purchased that are built into the lid of the aquarium. It is best to give preference to fluorescent lamps. Although their price is higher, they do not heat water and are many times more economical than incandescent lamps.

Accessories

Basically, what equipment is needed considered, but for proper care there are not enough simple but necessary devices:

Scrapers. With their help, the walls of the aquarium are cleaned of algae and other contaminants. The most convenient and effective magnetic model.
Hose. This simple device is needed to pump out water in the aquarium when it is changed. It is better to pick up a convenient bucket for it, which will not be difficult to carry filled with water.
The net is necessary for catching fish during general cleaning of the aquarium or jigging. You can purchase or make yourself such a simple device from wire and gauze.

We examined the basic equipment, without which no aquatic ecosystem can exist at home. Whether to purchase automatic feeders with a timer, festive LED lighting and other attributes is up to you.

Let's think about this! You have already bought an aquarium, picked it up, learned it, and so on. It seems that everything is ready for you ... However, do not rush to fill it with water and let the living creatures in there. You probably guessed that without special equipment, an aquarium cannot exist in principle. Or rather, he can, but it will not be very long. There are special aquarium equipment that will make life easier for you and your dear pets.

For example, the human body will quickly get used to strong temperature fluctuations, but aquarium inhabitants do not have such an opportunity, they live in the tropics, but what kind of sharp temperature change is there, and in general, where will the cold water come from? That's right, nowhere. If you are far from the tropics, then you can’t do without an aquarium heater. Modern heaters are so convenient that in addition to the heating element, they also contain a thermal relay.

What is it for? And it is necessary so that your aquarium heater does not constantly heat up the aquarium water, but that it maintains the set temperature. For example, if you want the temperature in the aquarium to be +25 degrees, you set this parameter on the heater and that's it. At first it will work until the water reaches the set temperature, and then it will turn on and off, thus maintaining a constant water temperature.

Just don't think that if you stuff a heater into an aquarium, it will definitely short out there and you will give your fish an electric chair. Aquarium heaters are enclosed in hermetic flasks that will not leak. During operation, condensation may form inside the flask. This is quite normal, do not think that it is covered and you need to buy a new one. This heater will serve you for more than one year.

Well, it seems that we sorted out the heater, let's move on. If the fish live in the tropics, thanks to the heater you will create the necessary conditions. Stop, don't create! In the tropics, the water is clean, but what is yours? Probably from a faucet? Well, naturally from him darling. And as we all know, the quality of tap water leaves much to be desired. Therefore, it's time to get an aquarium filter, because the fish are not as stable creatures as "homo sapiens". As a rule, the filter for an aquarium is selected taking into account its volume. You can purchase both an internal filter and an external one. If your aquarium is 60 liters, then you do not need any external filter. Go to the store and buy a small internal filter and rejoice.

As a rule, external filters are used if the volume of the aquarium exceeds 200-300 liters. For a 500-liter aquarium, an external filter will come in handy. What is the difference between these two types of filters? The internal filter has a nozzle and a flask in which the filter element with a drive is located. The filter itself is attached with suction cups to the glass inside the aquarium. External filters are a kind of canister from which two hoses go to the aquarium. One leads to the filter, and the second sends already filtered water back to the aquarium. Despite the fact that an internal filter will be much more convenient and economical, your pets are unlikely to enjoy the constant flow.

So, we have created more or less suitable conditions for aquarium fish, now another important detail. As you know, the water must be enriched with oxygen, so we need a compressor, or the so-called pump. The compressor is an essential piece of equipment for an aquarium. Without it, your fish will suffer from a lack of oxygen in the water and will float to the top with their belly. To prevent this phenomenon, aquarium water must be aerated, especially in the summer.

Compressor

There are two types of aquarium compressors that you can purchase - external and internal. Before you buy, think carefully about which option suits you best. External compressors are more or less decorative and in the aquarium it does not take up any space, but the only drawback in its operation is noise. Internal compressors create practically no noise, but they need to be placed in an aquarium, and this does not always look aesthetically pleasing. But there is a way out of this situation - plant tall plants in the background and they will eventually cover this opportunity and you will live in peace. In my aquarium, I installed an internal filter and a compressor - I have them in one unit. I thought that there was no need to be smart with a bunch of aquarium equipment and put the harvester)

So, the water was filtered, a compressor with a heater was installed, what else do you need? Well, of course, the sun! As same without him darling. That's just not in the literal sense of the sun, but lighting for the aquarium (artificial). You should not allow direct sunlight into the aquarium, because this will greatly affect the microflora, and twilight is also not a good option for the inhabitants of the underwater world. We can get out of this situation thanks to artificial lighting in the form of a lamp.

For an aquarium lamp, you need to use not only fluorescent lamps, but also incandescent lamps that are built into the lid of the aquarium. However, when buying incandescent lamps, you should remember that these lamps, in addition to lighting, will heat the aquarium water. Fluorescent lamps will not heat up, they are much more economical, and in the role of top lighting, they are just right.

In general, aquarium equipment is designed to facilitate the care of the aquarium, keep it clean and tidy. In addition to the filter, cleanliness in the aquarium is also created by improvised means: scrapers, hoses for pumping water during the change and a bucket. With a scraper, you will clean the walls of the aquarium from various algae that spoil the whole aesthetics of the aquarium. Best of all, this is a magnetic scraper, but I still use the old Savdepovsky scraper made by my father from a metal rod, at the end of which there is a mount for an ordinary blade. To change the blade, just unscrew a couple of nuts and insert a new one.

In addition to the scraper, you will need a hose for pumping water when changing. It is best to do this once a week, but you can do it once every two. In general, this is a topic for a separate post, you better subscribe to new blog articles and you will definitely not miss this material. I will say briefly: the larger the volume of the aquarium, the less you need to tinker with it. Small aquariums require much more care than larger ones. This is due to that. that it is very easy to disturb the biological balance in a small ecosystem, unlike a large jar.

Well, that's all the equipment for the aquarium that you need. No, I forgot about one more thing. How are you going to fish? That's right, net, without it in any way. You can either buy a fish net or make your own. The length of the net must be chosen so that it can easily reach the bottom of the aquarium. If you choose a short net, then you will constantly dip your hands into the water, and this is not good, you never know, some kind of muck will fall.

And finally, another important attribute is a thermometer. Previously, alcohol thermometers were attached to the aquarium on suction cups to control the water temperature. Now technology has stepped forward, and at the present time the thermometer is a narrow strip that is glued on the outside of the glass of the aquarium. This version of the thermometer is the most optimal - the aesthetics do not deteriorate and you control the temperature.

That's probably all for today, I think I haven't forgotten anything from the aquarium equipment. I think the post will be useful to you, and if not, then I invite you to BATL in the comments :) Until we meet again, friends on the pages of my blog.

The aquarium will help to decorate and make cozy any interior. Before buying, you need to decide what size you need, the shape and the necessary equipment for the aquarium. And then proceed to the choice of its inhabitants.

If you are confused about what equipment you need for an aquarium, then ask for help from specialist consultants in specialized stores. And the first thing they offer is lighting fixtures. They are needed in order for the fish and plants to feel good in the aquarium. This is not easy to do, because bright lighting is undesirable for fish, since in nature many of them are found in shaded ponds, but plants need good light for proper photosynthesis. To solve this problem, there are several possibilities:

Choose fish that originally lived in shallow and brightly lit ponds, then you can adjust the lighting to fit the plants.
Choose plants that can grow in the dark environment that fish need to live.
Choose plants for the aquarium that have broad leaves or that creep along the water, the fish will be able to hide in the shade of the algae leaves. So plant the plants first, wait for them to take root and start growing, and then let the fish in. This may take a couple of months, and since only plants will live in the aquarium during this period, top dressing will be needed to feed them.
Divide the aquarium into conditional sectors, in one plant plants whose leaves float on the surface of the water, and in the other - low plants with open space, so you give the fish a choice where to live. But for this you need a large aquarium, in small ones - the place is limited.
Light only the part of the aquarium where the most plants are. This is done so that the fish choose a suitable habitat for themselves. This can only be done in large aquariums. In dark areas, bog oak can be placed, it will resemble the interweaving of roots in a natural reservoir.

The light in the aquarium should be at least 10 hours daily, about the same as the daylight hours in natural conditions. In this case, it is not necessary to save on electricity, as well as to artificially extend the day so that the plants grow faster. Depending on what species of plants and fish live in the aquarium, you need to adjust the intensity of lighting. It is also worth paying attention to the depth of the container. If the water depth in the aquarium is half a meter, then only 15% of the rays emitted by the lamp will reach the bottom. If the glass container is deeper, then the light of the lamp will not reach the bottom, and planting plants there is pointless.

When choosing lighting equipment, pay attention to fluorescent lamps. Their price is not high, maintenance is not demanding. If they are installed correctly, they will evenly illuminate the surface of the water. Lamps are in waterproof bottles, which are mounted on the lid of the aquarium. Experts recommend installing two of these lamps if the height of the aquarium is up to 40 cm, and adding a lamp for every 10 cm of height. According to the length of the artificial pond, you need to select the size of the lamp so that the lighting is uniform.

Aquarium heating

Fish live and breed only at a certain water temperature, since these aquatic inhabitants are cold-blooded, all the biochemical processes of the body depend on the environment.

If the fish lived in a temperate climate, then it can live with a large temperature difference. If it is cold, then they can hibernate, will not eat, will burrow into the silt. It is impossible for fish to change the temperature sharply, then they will fall into a state of shock, lose their bearings and die.

If the fish live in a tropical climate, then they need to maintain a high temperature of the water. For them, the temperature in the room where the aquarium stands, at 22 degrees, will not be sufficient, because the water is always two degrees lower than the air. Therefore, you need to use electric heaters. To heat water you need to purchase:

Heater.
Regulator.
Thermostat - combines the first two devices.

It is very important that the heat is dissipated evenly through the water. For a hundred-liter aquarium, you need a device with a power of 30 W, this is on the condition that the room is not colder than 20 degrees. You do not need to buy a heater with high power, it will constantly turn on and off, and this will reduce its service life.

The thermostat must be attached somewhere in the corner. When working, the indicator light will be on, the power is adjustable. Modern devices are compact and relatively inexpensive, and most importantly, they maintain the temperature both on the surface and at the bottom of the container. Because the difference between the temperatures of different layers of water should not exceed two degrees. It is better to give preference to a heater with an automatic temperature controller.

Water aeration

Aquatic plants play an important role in saturating the water with oxygen, but even in large aquariums with vegetation, there is a lack of oxygen. There are several factors that affect the oxygen content of water:

Temperature - the warmer the water, the less oxygen in it, and vice versa. And high temperature also increases all metabolic processes in fish, as a result of which they consume more oxygen. To solve this problem, intensive aeration is needed.
Plants - the main value of plants lies in their ability to produce oxygen, but at night they themselves consume it, so at this time of day there may not be enough oxygen in the water.
Snails and other aquarium inhabitants - too many snails and bacteria can reduce the oxygen content of the water. Oxygen consumption by aerobic bacteria is acceptable, because in return they will be beneficial, but a large amount of organic waste that is formed due to overfeeding of fish will absorb this valuable element. So the fish need to be fed according to the norm.

Aeration of water occurs through a compressor that blows air from the atomizers. In addition to the fact that aeration saturates the air with oxygen, it also mixes all layers of water with air bubbles, and thus, the temperature in the entire aquarium is evened out.

In addition, the flow of water will imitate natural currents, which is also very important for fish. Thanks to aeration, the soil becomes strong, which helps the vital activity of soil bacteria, does not allow organic residues to rot, and no harmful gases are formed.

CO2 equipment

In addition to oxygen, fish also need carbon dioxide. It has a positive effect on the growth and vital activity of plants and is a kind of top dressing for fish.

CO2 equipment appeared relatively recently. It increases the acidity in the aquarium and thus has an antiseptic effect. Fish in such an aquarium are less likely to get sick. A cylinder with carbon dioxide can serve as this equipment; it is connected to the tank with a valve. But it is not entirely advisable to use it for several reasons:

the equipment is large;
dangerous to use in the house;
high price;
constant monitoring of the gas level in the cylinder, replacement or filling.

Given all these reasons, scientists came up with small cylinders specifically for the aquarium. In addition to ease of use, they also look stylish and fit into the design of any aquarium.

Filtration system

Any aquarium needs water filtration from dirt, plant debris, food, mucus. And this system is vital where there is an overpopulation of living beings.

Water is purified using filters, they release air bubbles that pass through a thin tube, take water with them. Water passes through the filler, which is a filter element, and returns to the aquarium already cleaned. Foam rubber, nylon threads and other porous materials are used as a filler.

Filtration consists of two phases:

Mechanical - filtration material traps dirt particles.
Biological - saprophyte bacteria feed on mud, they decompose it to minerals.

If both of these phases work, then the water will always be clean. But this does not happen on new filters that are already populated with bacteria. And if the filter is new or thoroughly washed, then the second phase will not work, the water will become cloudy.

In the first option, you just need to wait until the bacteria populate the "novelty", in the second - wash the filler only when necessary, when it is already clogged with silt or algae and cannot perform its functions. And then, it is not necessary to wash to sterile purity, it is enough to free the pores for the free flow of water.

They also sell special bacterial preparations. It is impossible to turn off the filter, because beneficial bacteria will die and dangerous ones will settle, which will lead to the death of all living things.

Filters are:

Bottom, which are at the bottom or inside the ground. They create the movement of water, thereby helping to develop the microflora in the soil. The disadvantages include the inconvenience of maintenance.
Internal, which are located on the wall of the aquarium. The dirt collects inside the water tank. Very easy to use, it can be disguised with driftwood.
External, which are located on the outside of the aquarium. The most convenient to use. Waste is processed mainly by aerobic bacteria.

Other aquarium equipment

Feeder - to prevent the food from spreading over the entire surface of the water, a plastic frame is installed. Feeders are also automatic, which feed the fish themselves once a day or at any appointed time.
Siphon with a pump - removes the soil in the aquarium, looks like a flexible hose with a flask. Its length depends on the size of the aquarium and the amount of soil.
Magnetic scraper - they clean the glass. It is successfully replaced by snails.

In a specialized store, you can offer a large variety of aquarium equipment. You only need to buy what you really need, because an oversaturated aquarium with new technologies does not look very natural.

Many stores sell ready-made aquarium kits (jar, lid, filter, heater). However, you need to carefully consider what is contained in such a set to make sure that it contains exactly what you need (and does not include what you do not need). Don't go cheap! Cheap compressors, filters, heaters break down quite often and this does not benefit your fish at all.

You can buy a used aquarium with equipment. This is a good way to do aquarism at no extra cost. However, be careful when buying - examine the aquarium for cracks and scratches, and the equipment for performance. Of course, everything can be repaired and adjusted, but is the game worth the candle? Don't buy a scratched aquarium as this will cause algae to develop in the scratches, making the look and viewing conditions of the fish in the aquarium worse. Be careful when buying very old equipment. It cannot work reliably. An ear made of angelfish, obtained as a result of a heater breakdown, is unlikely to please you. Before installing the aquarium (especially if the aquarium is used), check it for leaks. Fill the aquarium with water and leave for a week. A leaking aquarium in a bathtub or garage is far less of a problem than having 200 liters of water on your living room floor.

NEVER use soap or detergents to clean the aquarium. Use water and nothing else. If you want to sterilize the case, use potassium permanganate and bleach, then fill the aquarium with water and let it stand, and then rinse the aquarium several times with clean water. Soil, stones and driftwood can be safely boiled.

Equipment: What is necessary and what is not?

Tons of aquarium devices are sold in pet stores. Some are necessary, others are only useful for special applications, and some are completely useless (although the pet store that sells them most likely won't tell you that). Here is a list of what you will most likely need.

How to choose an aquarium

Aquariums come in many shapes and sizes, but they are made from just two types of materials. Silicone glass and acrylic (plexiglass). For a beautiful decorative aquarium, it is advisable to use silicate glass. Silicate glass, although it has a large mass and less impact resistance against acrylic, still provides easier maintenance (cleaning from algae), has a more attractive appearance, less distortion and lower cost per liter.

The size and shape of the aquarium depends entirely on your desires and tastes.

However, keep the following in mind:

Contrary to first impressions, large aquariums are not necessarily more work to maintain than smaller ones. In particular, it is easier to maintain stable water parameters in large aquariums than in small ones (the smaller the amount of water, the more easily small actions lead to large changes in relative concentration). 100 grams of salt in 10 liters and 100 liters are far from the same thing. A lot of maintenance work doesn't take twice as long for twice the size of an aquarium. For example, changing 10% of the water in 50 and 100 liter aquariums does not require significantly different time for this operation.
If you wish to add additional fish to your aquarium, it is safer to do so in a larger tank than in a smaller one. If you have one 40 liter aquarium, then you can keep very few medium-sized fish in it.
Keep in mind that the number of fish depends not only on the volume of the aquarium, but also on its shape. For example, some fish spend their entire lives near the bottom. Doubling the volume of an aquarium by doubling its height will not allow you to accommodate more bottom-dwelling fish. Bottom area is more important than volume in determining how many fish to put in an aquarium. If possible, buy your first aquarium no smaller, preferably larger than 80 liters. Avoid all aquariums smaller than 40l. They are simply too small to maintain biological balance on their own. Many shops offer round aquariums - stay away from such things.

How to choose an aquarium heater

If you are planning to have a tropical aquarium, then a heater is essential. It ensures the stability of the water temperature in the aquarium throughout the day, even when the air temperature in the room drops significantly (eg at night or in winter). For most tropical fish, +25° - +26°C is ideal.

There are two main types of heaters. Fully submersible heaters, and partially submersible classic heaters. In the classic of these devices, the spiral is below the water level, and all controls are above the water level. Fully submersible heaters are sealed and can be placed horizontally on the bottom or even under the ground. They are less noticeable in the aquarium and do not break if the water level in the aquarium drops, for example when changing the water.

Classical heaters must be disconnected from the mains when changing the water, because if the spiral is above the water level, then the heater’s glass bulb overheats locally, and as a result it breaks at the moment when you start adding water to the aquarium. Recently, heaters have appeared, whose body is made of metal (titanium), apparently local overheating is not so terrible for them.

If the difference between the air in your room and the aquarium never exceeds 5-6 degrees, then the heater should be purchased at an approximate calculation of 0.6W per liter. If the difference is higher, then a heater of 1-1.2 W per liter will be required. Remember: the heater must keep the set temperature of the aquarium constant even in the coldest season.

Heaters (especially cheap ones) sometimes break down. It most often happens that the contacts of the thermal relay that turn on the device burn out, and the heater starts to work in continuous mode. As a result, the temperature in the aquarium rises, especially if the heater is significantly more powerful than your aquarium needs. To minimize possible problems associated with thermostat failure, do not buy too powerful heaters. A good way out of this situation may be to install two smaller devices, instead of one large one. In the event of failure of one of them, the consequences will not be so catastrophic.

Aquarium thermometer

You will also need a thermometer to check the temperature of the aquarium water. There are two types of thermometers commonly used in aquariums. The classic glass thermometer is immersed in water and attached to the glass with a suction cup, or floats on the surface. The second type is flat thermometers based on liquid crystals, glued on the outside of the glass. In this case, liquid crystals change color at a certain temperature, or increase in brightness.

Aquarium thermometers are rather unreliable and inaccurate, and serve mainly to check that the temperature has not gone too far from the desired value. When shopping for a thermometer, look at several thermometers and choose the one with the average reading.

How to choose an aquarium filter

There are three types of filtration: biological, mechanical and chemical

Biological filtration breaks down the poisonous ammonia that fish produce. All aquariums must have biological filtration; biological filtration is the cheapest, most efficient and most resistant to ammonia. Mechanical filtration captures particles such as plant leaves, feed residues, etc. and removes them from the aquarium before they decompose into ammonia. Chemical filtration (eg activated carbon, zeolite, etc.) can remove substances such as ammonia, heavy metals, decomposing organic matter, and the like. using chemical processes (eg adsorption or ion exchange processes). Chemical filtration is mainly useful for dealing with temporary problems, such as removing drugs after they have served their purpose, or for pretreatment of aquarium water. A healthy aquarium DOES NOT need to use chemical filters such as activated carbon!

ALL AQUARIUMS MUST HAVE BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION.

While chemical filtration can remove ammonia under certain circumstances, it is not the way to go. Typically, filters have some or all of the three types of filtering. Typically, mechanical filtration works at the filter inlet, purifying water from particles that can clog subsequent filter stages. Biological filtration is usually next, followed by chemical filtration.

Is chemical filtration really necessary and useful? It may be needed to remove medications from the water when they have worn off, although water changes do the same. Chemical filtration removes from the water trace elements necessary for plant growth, and as a result will inhibit their growth. Unless you have a good reason to use chemical filtration, don't use it.

Filters need maintenance. For example, if waste accumulates in a mechanical filter, it will begin to decompose into ammonia, and the filter will no longer perform its tasks. Likewise, the efficiency of a biological filter decreases as it also becomes clogged. Biological filtration requires that the water washes the largest surface on which there are bacteria that decompose waste. The smaller the surface, the less effective the filter. Therefore, such filters are filled with fine gravel, or ceramic tubes with a large surface. UGF filters must be cleaned periodically with a siphon during water changes. Filter media can be cleaned in water taken from the aquarium by rinsing and wringing lightly. Do not wash the filter in tap water as it contains chlorine which kills the beneficial bacteria in the filter.

There is no magic formula for calculating filter size and performance. Consult with aquarists, study books and recommendations of filter manufacturers. There is no excess filtration, although there may be too much water circulation.

What is the best soil for an aquarium?

The soil is intended in the aquarium for three main purposes.

This decoration of the aquarium, brings it closer to a natural reservoir
When using UGF filters, the primer is necessary as it is part of the filter (the surface area where the bacteria reside)
The soil is necessary for plants, as a substrate for the roots from where they take food.

Ultimately, the choice of color, size, type of soil is up to you. However, be aware that the dark ground is better to convey the colors of the fish. Fish change color to match their environment, and light ground causes the fish to take on a lighter (less showy) coloration.

Now there is a soil covered with plastic (totally wild colors) on sale, so it definitely cannot be boiled, and besides, it is quite expensive. However, true aquarists do not go to the store for soil, they make their way into quarries, to warehouses of bulk materials, to construction sites and there, with the help of sieves, they sow the amount of soil necessary for the aquarium.

Keep in mind that the ground may be far from inert. For example, corals, seashells, dolomites, and limestone release carbonates into the aquarium, which increase the hardness of the water and the pH buffering capacity of the water. Although this is not scary, for example, for keeping African cichlids.

But, in most cases, such soil is undesirable in an aquarium. To find out what kind of soil you got, put a drop of vinegar on soil samples. If gas bubbles start to form, then the use of such a primer will lead to the release of carbonates into the aquarium water. To be absolutely sure of the quality of the soil, fill a small container with soil and water (3 liter jar 50x50), and measure the pH within a week. If the pH remains stable, then it is safe to use this soil in the aquarium.

Before use, the soil must be disinfected. First you need to rinse the soil several times in water to remove dirt. It is necessary to rinse until the water is really clean. After that, it is advisable to boil the soil for 15-20 minutes in salted water, and then rinse it again. This will remove all unwanted bacteria from the soil.

Aquarium driftwood

It is perfectly safe to use any decoration in the aquarium, as long as it does not change the water parameters. Most plastics are inert, as are glass and ceramics.

Woody snags can release tannins into the water by changing the pH of the water. Driftwood often releases tannins and other humic acids into the water (similar to peat), softening the water and lowering the pH of the water. The water may also take on a yellowish, tea-like tint. This shade is not harmful, and can be removed if the water is filtered through activated charcoal. If you are using a driftwood that you found yourself (for example, in a forest or on a lake), then boil it first in salt water, and then in regular water, periodically cleaning the driftwood from dead wood with a stiff brush to destroy any pathogenic bacteria. It is necessary to boil for a long time (for example, I boiled for a day), it is also necessary to give the driftwood negative buoyancy. If after a day of boiling the snag still pops up, then it must be forcibly weighted (an inert load should be fixed at the base).

Aquarium lighting and lid

For the arrangement of the aquarium, lighting and a cover are certainly necessary. The lid prevents fish from jumping out of the aquarium and reduces water evaporation. A good lid effectively closes the aquarium (except perhaps where the heater and filter are). If the lid does not seal the aquarium tightly, this can lead to an undesirable increase in the humidity of the air in the room, and will require more water to be replaced to replace the evaporated water.

There are two types of aquarium covers. Actually covers as such and covers with lighting installed in them. Usually such covers have space for 1 or 2 fluorescent lamps, and this wave is enough for fish. But not enough for plants! Glass lids are a sheet of glass with plastic accessories that cover the aquarium but do not turn on the lights. These lids are preferred for heavily planted aquariums, as they allow changing the aquarium lighting without modifying the lid itself. In full lids with built-in lighting, lighting upgrades are difficult or impossible and may require a complete lid replacement if the aquarium needs to be lit up.

Lighting is necessary firstly so that fish and plants look more impressive, and secondly, it is necessary for plants for the process of photosynthesis and development. Unfortunately, there is a contradiction here. In an aquarium with mostly fish, one fluorescent light is enough to make the fish look their best (most fish don't like bright colors). If it is desirable to have lush vegetation in the aquarium, then the amount of light must be significantly increased. Plants are also sensitive to the emission spectrum of lamps. Many lamps in the light of which fish look very impressive are completely unsuitable for plants.

Fluorescent lighting is perhaps the only way to achieve optimal plant growth. Conventional incandescent lamps emit too much heat, which threatens to overheat the aquarium, especially in summer. Fluorescent lamps are substantially cooler and use less electricity to produce the same level of illumination. Keep in mind that in the midst of the summer heat, even fluorescent lamps can cause overheating problems, especially if it is really hot outside (above +30°C). Unfortunately, lighting contributes to the development of not only aquarium plants, but also the simplest algae.

If the aquarium is strongly lit, but there are not many plants in it, then the simplest algae will fill the aquarium very quickly. Thus, lighting that is ideal for aquariums with only fish is very different from lighting for a lush aquarium. Two concepts are important for lighting, these are intensity and spectrum. Plants require intensive lighting and a certain spectrum of lamp radiation, in which plant growth is most favorable.

Different types of lamps emit light in different spectral ranges. The so-called "full-spectrum" lamps reproduce the full spectral range of the Sun. They are good for both plants and fish. Specialized lamps for plants (eg flora index, etc.) emit light in specific spectral ranges that stimulate plant growth. Such lamps stimulate the growth of plants (and the simplest algae!), but fish in this light look unnatural, since these lamps do not have the spectrum of normal sunlight. Ordinary fluorescent lamps emit light that is optimal for human vision, these lamps do not contribute to the growth of plants or the beautiful appearance of fish. The usual rule of thumb when choosing the output power of lamps for aquariums with live plants is 0.5-1W per liter when using special lamps. For aquariums without live plants, 0.25 W per liter is sufficient.

Pumps

A pump is a water pump located underwater inside an aquarium. Typically, pumps are connected to UGF filters, moving water through an air lift. The outlet water flow can usually be directed in any direction, and it is usually desirable to direct the flow so that the water circulates throughout the aquarium and creates some disturbance on the surface of the water.

Air pumps (compressors)

The compressor simply drives a stream of air bubbles through the water. The compressor performs two main tasks. The first is the supply of oxygen to the water, which is necessary for fish. If you have a pump and create an appropriate flow of water that mixes the layers in the aquarium, then a compressor is not required. Aeration is also not required if you use an external filter. Second, compressors can be used to move water through a filter (such as a sponge or corner filter). When using a UGF filter, the compressor produces a stream of air bubbles that force the water up in the pipe, thereby moving the water through the filter. In large aquariums, pumps usually perform the same function. Thus, a compressor is not required if the aquarium has good water circulation.

aquarium stand

You will need a stand to set up your aquarium. As a stand, you can use both stands specially made for the aquarium, and suitable furniture available in your home. The most important thing is to find out if the stand will support the weight of the aquarium. Completely filled with water and soil aquariums weigh quite a lot! (A 100 liter all-glass aquarium filled with water and soil weighs about 130 kg).

If you live in an old house, pay attention to where the aquarium is located in relation to the beams on which the floor is laid. The larger the base area of the stand, the less pressure per square centimeter of the floor. It is unlikely that anyone wants an aquarium to break through the floor!

If you are planning on having a large aquarium (eg 200L or more), make sure the floor can support that weight! For large aquariums, try to place the jar in such a way in the room that its weight is distributed over several beams. Placing the aquarium near a load-bearing wall is safer than placing it in the middle of the room.

The outer surface of the stand should ensure that the weight of the aquarium is evenly distributed. If the stand has an uneven surface, then local stresses are possible, which can lead to cracks in the glass and leakage of the aquarium. Between the counter and the aquarium, it’s a good idea to lay a layer of sheet rubber, linoleum or polyurethane foam ~ 5-7 mm thick (I laid a layer of insulated linoleum on a padding polyester).

Aquarium Plants

There are two types of plants: living and plastic. Plants are designed to give the aquarium a natural look and provide hiding places for the fish. Plastic plants do not require special care.

Although it is not always possible to grow live plants in an aquarium, as they have specific requirements (temperature, lighting, etc.). If you wish to grow live plants, then carefully study the material about plants before you buy them, and especially before buying an aquarium cover.

Auxiliary equipment for the aquarium

Draining is the easiest way to remove water from an aquarium. For larger aquariums, use a drain hose. It will allow you to do without a bucket, and if the hose is long enough, then you can drain the water directly into the sewer. When draining the water, you can also siphon the soil in the aquarium. Drain hoses and siphons can be easily purchased at the store. When buying a hose, pay attention to its strength, too soft hoses tend to bend and this makes it difficult to drain. A good solution (for me) was the purchase of a two-layer hose (for watering the garden) reinforced between layers with fiberglass. The siphon can be made independently using an empty plastic lemonade bottle, cutting off its bottom, and connecting a hose instead of a lid. For a large aquarium, a liter bottle will do, and for a smaller one, 0.6 liters will do. Drained water is good for watering houseplants.

To remove the simplest algae from the glass of the aquarium, a scraper is needed. Scrapers are available in stores. As a scraper, you can use sponges for washing dishes or plastic washcloths, of course, without the use of soap, pemoxol and other detergents! It is possible to use a glass cleaning blade, especially if the glass is covered with hard-to-remove algae. Be careful when cleaning the glass of plastic aquariums, as they are very easy to scratch.

Magnetic scrapers are very handy for cleaning glass. One part of such a scraper is inside the aquarium, and the other part is outside. Inside each part there is a magnet that provides the necessary pressing force for cleaning the glass. By moving the outer part of the scraper, you then move the inner part and the algae is cleaned from the glass, without the need to wet your hands in water - very convenient! There are several types of such scrapers on sale, choose those that have a strong magnetic field. This will allow you to clean aquariums even with thick glasses.

Ruff- one of the most effective means for removing algae from the inside of plastic hoses.

Water change tank

You will need at least one container for draining or adding water to the aquarium. Use the maximum capacity you can handle comfortably (up to 20 liters). Use this container for aquarium work only and do not pour any chemicals into it. Very convenient is just a plastic, 20 liter bottle for clean drinking water used in coolers. It has a throat with a diameter of 5 centimeters, very light and quite comfortable. If we don’t have space for such a container or it’s too heavy for you, then you can use 1.5-2 liter bottles of lemonade (I have a battery of 18 such bottles in my bath - cheap and cheerful).

Nets

You will need at least one net for catching fish. But it is better to have two nets and one to drive the fish into the other. The size of the net depends on the size of the aquarium and the size of your fish. Be careful! Catching fish is stressful for her. When fishing, a violation of the protective mucous membrane occurs. If possible, fish in a clear glass or plastic container to prevent contact with the fish.

Test suites

You will probably want to know the parameters of the aquarium water (eg ammonia concentration, water hardness or pH). Since there are a large number of different sets on sale, specific recommendations will be reflected in a separate article.