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Designing for beginners: how to build a sheath dress. Construction of various silhouettes of women's clothing designs


Advance paynemt

Shizd. = Cr3 + Pg = 44.0 + 3.5 = 47.5

Shs = Shs + Pshs = 17.3 + 0.7 = 18.0

Shper = Wg2 + Pshg = 19.1

Spr = Shizd - (Shsp + Shper) = 47.5 - (18.0 + 19.1) = 10.4

Shruk = = = 16.0

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is selected according to the model. The typical solution suggests the difference between Shruk. and Shruk.vn, equal to 5.0¸5.5 cm. In this construction, Shruk.in = 11.0.

Generating a drawing grid

The level of the chest line: AH = Bpr s + Pspr = 17.5 + 2.0 = 19.5 (Fig. 4).

Waistline level: AT = Dts + Pdts = 40.1 + 1.0 = 41.1.

Blade line level: АУ = 0,4 Дтс = 0,4 ∙ 40,1 ≈ 16,0.

Along the chest line, GG1 = Shsp = 18.0 is sequentially deposited; G1G2 = Spr = 10.4; G2G4 = Shper = 19.1.

The lower part of the armhole is constructed using the serif method: Г1П3 = 0.6Spr = 0.6 ∙ 10.4 = 6.2; G2P6 = 0.4Spr = 4.2.

Back construction

The back is built with a middle seam for a better fit. Abduction of the midline of the back along the waist line TT1 = 1.0. Connect the obtained point T1 with point U. It is possible to design a lead in the region of the apex of the middle cut, i.e. AAʹ to the right 0.5cm.

Sprout width АА1 = ⅓Сш + Пш.гор = ⅓ ∙ 17.5 + 0.5 = 6.3. To determine the position of the apex of the sprout or balance point A2 on the back, find the difference between the measurements of Dts1 and Dts: put A1A2 = Dts1 - Dts = 42.9 - 40.1 = 2.8 upwards.

Fig. 4 Construction of the bodice of a dress of an adjacent silhouette

Sprout height А2А21 ≈ 2.2 ÷ 2.3 - for light assortment (dress, blouse). Point A21 is projected onto the line of the middle cut (point A0), then the sprout line is drawn out.

In the design under consideration, a shoulder dart is projected on the back, i.e. the shoulder slice is constructed while maintaining the natural slope of the shoulder line. First, the level of the shoulder point at the intersection of two arcs is determined: from point T - arc R = Bpk + Pdts = 42.8 + 1.0 = 43.8 and from point A2 - arc R = Shp = 13.1. From the obtained point P, draw a small horizontal line to the vertical from G1 - point P2. On the A2P line, the position of the shoulder dart is outlined: A2A22 = ⅓ ÷ ¼ Shp ≈ 3.5. The left side of the dart is raised by 0.5 h 0,7 (A22A22ʹ) to ensure the mating of the shoulder cut when the dart is closed.



The solution of the shoulder tuck depends on the posture of the figure. For a typical figure with normal posture, it is recommended to take 2,0 ÷ 2.5cm. For a stooped figure, a tuck of a larger solution is required - 2.5 ÷ 3.0 cm, and for an kinky posture - 1.5 ÷ 2.0 cm. The length of the dart depends on the size of the mortar and for crimping the end of the dart is equal to 3-4 of its mortars. After constructing the shoulder dart, the shoulder cut is completed: А23П1 = Шп - А2А22ʹ.

To design the line of the armhole of the back, the end of the shoulder cut P1 is lecally connected to the point P3.

The top of the side cut of the bodice of the dress, point G5 in the standard solution is in the middle of the armhole. From point G5 draw a vertical to the waist line - point T6.

Front building

To construct the neckline from point T4, a balance yardstick is set, i.e. T4A3 = Dtp1 + Pdtp = 43.0 + 1.0 = 44.0. The width of the neck is equal to the width of the sprout: A3A4 = AA1 = 6.3. Neck depth A3A5 = A3A4 + 1.0 = 7.3. The constructed line of the neckline and sprout of the back corresponds to the line of the base of the neck of the figure. If the model requires expansion and deepening of the neck, then the necessary changes are made on the basis of the structure built.

In cut-off products along the waist line, it is recommended to design a lowering T4T5 = 0,5 ÷ 0.7. The portion of the descent remains up to the vertical passing through the most prominent point of the chest. This lowering is necessary to maintain a straight line when connecting the bodice of the product to the bottom of it.

The front shoulder and bust dart are built together. Set aside A4A8 = A2A22ʹ to the left. From A22ʹ draw a vertical line to the waist line (point T7) and to the line of decline (point T71). On this vertical, from the top of the throat A4 (balance point of the front), make a notch R = A4G7 = Br1 + ½Pdtn = 25.2. From point G7, as from the end of the breast dart, an arc with a radius equal to G7A8 is drawn, along the chord, the solution of the breast dart is deposited A8A9 = 2 (Wg2 –Wr1) +2 = 2 (19.1 - 16.5) + 2 = 7.2.

To determine the position of the end of the shoulder cut of point P5 up, postpone G2P4 = G1P2 - 1.0. From P6 - arc with radius P6P4. From the auxiliary point A10 (A9A10 = A4A8) on this arc, make a notch with a radius equal to Shp = 13.1. Connect the resulting point P5 with A10. Mark the intersection of the shoulder with the left side of the chest dart 1 , on the left side align the right, i.e. G7 2 = Г7 1 ... To preserve the volume in the area of ​​the mammary glands, it is recommended to shorten the breast dart by 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm (along the bisector to maintain the equality of the sides).

To design the front armhole line, the end of the shoulder cut P5 is lecrally connected to the point P6.

Calculation and construction of darts along the waist line

Depending on the silhouette, the increase in Pt is selected from the table of increments and the total solution of the darts is calculated.

ΣW = Shizd - (St + Fri) - TT1 = 47.5 - (33.8 +2.7) - 1.0 = 10.0. The distribution of ΣW depends on its size and the number of waist darts. Typical solution:

(0.4 ÷ 0.5) ΣW - lateral tuck (in side cuts), distribute relative to Т6;

0.25ΣW - back dart on the back, relative to Т8 (on the vertical from the middle of the backrest ГГ1);

0.25 ΣW - front dart, which is set aside relative to T71.

In the event that the value of the total solution of the darts exceeds 11.0 cm, it is recommended to design the front side dart with a solution equal to (0.1 ÷ 0.15) ΣW. Distribute the dart relative to a point in the middle of the T6T7 section. Another option is possible, when a second dart is built on the back.

In the considered design of the bodice of the dress of the adjacent silhouette, the solution of the side dart is 4.4 cm, the rear dart is 2.6 cm, the solution of the front dart is 3.0 cm.

The ends of the darts on the back and front are marked at a distance of 4.0 ÷ 5.0 cm.

The side slices are lengthened by approximately 1.0 cm, i.e. T61T61ʹ = T62T62ʹ = 1.0 - to ensure the conjugation of the waist cuts of the back and the front after connecting the side cuts.

Calculation and construction of a sleeve tapered from top to bottom with an elbow dart

The sleeve is built into the armhole. The length of the armhole (Dpr) is measured from the drawing of the base of the bodice of the dress. Hpos is chosen depending on the thickness and structure of the fabric. In this design, Dpr = 42.1. The size of the landing along the edge of the sleeve is calculated: Pos = Hpos · Dpr = 0.07 · 42.1 ≈ 2.9. Dock = Dpr + Pos = 42.1 +2.9 = 45.0.

Wok = ⅔Dock - Shruk = ⅔45.0 - 16.0 = 14.0. The calculated height of the dowel for control is compared with the graphical wok. Vok.gr. = dvert - 2.5 = 16.5 - 2.5 = 14.0.

For the convenience and accuracy of constructing the armhole into which the sleeve is embedded, it is rebuilt with the designation of the main points (Fig. 5).

To determine the position of the point through which the line of the front roll to the right passes, G2Rn = 0.4 (Shruk - Shpr) = 0.4 (16.0 - 10.4) = 2.2 is laid. Draw a vertical through the point Pp, along which PnO1 = Wok = 14.0 should be laid up, and O1M = Druk = 56.0 and O1L = ½Druk - 3.0 = 31.0 down. To the left, postpone PpRl = Shruk = 16.0.

Sleeve width along the elbow line LL2 = Shruk - 1,0 ÷ 1.5 = 15.0. Connect point RL L2.

Rice. 5 Construction of a set-in sleeve with an elbow dart

The construction of the sleeve head is performed by the serif method in the following sequence:

· From the point Рп to the right to postpone the value equal to Г2Рп and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius of 0.4Spr = 4.2, the armhole in front of the mirror is built in the mirror image to obtain the point Р1;

From point Г0 draw a line perpendicular to РлЛ2, from point Рлʹ to the left set aside a value equal to Г1Рл (measure) and relative to the new coordinate axes with a radius of construction of the armhole of the back of 0.6Rnr = 6.2, construction is performed in mirror reflection with obtaining point P2;

Point O11 - middle of OO1; point O23 - midpoint of O2O3; point Оʹ - midpoint О11О23; put down ОʹОʹʹ = ½ О11О23 and draw a semicircle from the point Оʹʹ with this radius;

· Connect the upper part of the sleeve head with the lower parts of the tangents; the intersection points are designated as O6 and O7.

For the final construction of the line of the front roll from point M to the right, put MMʹ = 1.5 and the resulting point Mʹ is connected to point L. Thus, O6LMʹ is the line of the front roll.

The line of the bottom of the sleeve is built at an angle, for which an additional construction is performed: to the left МʹМʹʹ = 18.0 (const) and downwards МʹʹМ3 = 3.0 (const). Connect point М3 with Мʹ, put МʹМ2 = Shruk.vn on the inclined line. = 11.0. Connect point M2 with L2. Line О7Л2М2 - elbow roll line.

The sleeve is built with an elbow dart. The tuck solution is obtained by completing an additional construction: from point L2, draw a line perpendicular to RlʹL2 until it intersects with the vertical G0L0, the intersection point is Lʹ. From point Лʹ draw a line perpendicular to Л2М2. Postpone L2L3 = RlʹR2 and LʹL4 = LʹL3. The end of the elbow dart point L5 should not reach the line of the elbow roll by 2.0 ÷ 2.5 cm. the ulnar cut of the sleeve passes through points P2L3L4M4.

The sleeve is unrolled relative to the front roll line to construct the front cut of the R1L1M1 sleeve, with M1 below the horizontal bottom line by ½ (1 - M0).

The sleeve is sewn into the armhole when combining the notches on the lines of the ridge and armhole. Notches on the line of the dowel are placed taking into account that the main part of the fit is designed along the head of the sleeve, and the lower sections of the dowel are inserted into the armhole with a minimum fit. The position of the notch from point O6 on the bend is projected onto the armhole - point P61, the notch from point O7 on the bend corresponds to the notch P31 on the armhole. The upper notch when stitching in is aligned with the shoulder seam of the product.

The pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings the owner some difficulties when choosing a ready-made dress due to the difference in the girth of the hips and chest. Don't be upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrast inserts running along the dress and visually modeling the figure, as well as a little High waist, heels and tights to match the shoes will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decorations in the area of ​​hips, patch pockets, draperies, cross stripes and large prints.

photo from the site, http://www.chieflady.com/

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern based on an adjacent silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines that form the silhouette are the best and most advantageous demonstration of the female figure of the lower type. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and a white, expanding silhouette at the top will highlight the slimmer silhouette. But, here it is impossible to be too clever with excessive narrowing of the skirt and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to widen the skirt a little towards the bottom.



photo from the site http://www.stylishwife.com/

Modeling. On the details of the pattern of the back and the shelf, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to the middle line of the back, for the best fit in this area. Open the bust dart in the armhole, read more about the transfer of darts, read It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the waist and hip girth is large and the solutions of the darts for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the dart must be split into two, otherwise ugly creases in the waist area will appear in the finished product.


In the second version of modeling, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut-off at the waist.


MODELING A DRESS FOR THE INVERTED TRIANGLE FIGURE

Your strong point is narrow hips and long, slender legs. We focus on them. All decor, bright prints - down to the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, here raglan sleeves will help us, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear fluffy wide skirts, skirts or trousers with a peplum, straight cut dresses, but not too bulky and wide, with vertical seams or trim.


photo from the sites http://refinedstylefashion.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/pin/454089574910263523/ http://stylowi.pl/

As an example, we will analyze the modeling of a pattern of a simple dress suitable for this type of figurus. The model has a fitted sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut off along the waist line, on the front panel of the skirt there are two opposite folds, on the back panel of the skirt there is a slit.


photo from the site http://snowqueen.ru/

We begin modeling by applying the basic pattern of the adjacent silhouette to the relief lines on the details of the back and the shelf (if you want a greater fit or the fabric is knitted, you can use the base pattern of the adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium darts on the front panel of the skirt in folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the darts vertically downwards, move the parts apart so that in the upper part we obtain a solution approximately equal to 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom, keep the volume of the skirt in its original form.


MODELING A DRESS FOR THE HOURGLASS FIGURE TYPE

The hourglass type of figure is the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered a standard for imitation and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothes. Lucky women with this type of physique. The main advice is to focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Neckline, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos are your win-win look.


photo from sites http://www.asos.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/NatalieYoung29/


Let's simulate such a simple dress, in two versions.

photo taken from sites

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very effective. For modeling, we need a pattern for the base of an adjacent silhouette and a pattern for a sleeve. Cut-off dress along the waist line, the skirt is widened to the bottom. The darts to fit the chest are transferred into the neckline: in the first version, the darts from the neck are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version, the darts on the chest are distributed in folds extending from the neckline, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. 1 step - on the details of the back, the dart for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because the neckline of the back is deep enough and widened, but the size of the solution must be removed from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For the convenience of modeling, we will transfer the dart on the shelf to the armhole. Cut the details of the skirt pattern lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of the simulation. Draw a new line for the neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the tallium dart on the shelf to the neckline, we will also transfer the dart from the armhole there. Read more about translation of darts. When designing a detachable adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the part of the shelf must be lowered in the waist area by 1 cm, this will give a better fit and prevent it from jerking when finished. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern obtained after cutting the details of the skirt, so that the darts open to the bottom. Correct the side cuts and the bottom of the product.


Sleeve modeling. The sleeve base pattern can be taken on our website. First, let's shorten the length to the required one. With the help of vertical cuts going from the ridge to the bottom of the part, and the subsequent spreading of the parts of the pattern, design the opposite fold.


In the second version of the dress, the darts on the shelf are translated into folds extending from the neckline. We will consider modeling below.


MODELING A DRESS FOR THE "OVAL" FIGURE TYPE (APPLE)

The figure is an oval (apple). In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". The strategy in choosing the right clothes will be to emphasize, accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that slightly expands to the bottom, as well as the use of belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be slightly expanded, for example, use a V-neck, collars ... Sheath dresses, smells, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.


photo from the sites http://yourmothershouldknow.tumblr.com/ https://ru.pinterest.com/buyerselect/ https://ru.pinterest.com/nordstrom/ http://dresses-photo.ru/ http: / /jenskie-hitrosti.ru/

As an example, let's take a look at this dress. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, this is very stretching the silhouette and slimming. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly widens towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and the choice of fabric that holds its shape create the desired image and collect the figure as a whole. To model this model, we will use a basic sewing pattern of an adjacent silhouette for a better fit.


photo from the site

The female figure is a rectangle type. For modern models, it is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, usually there are no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! This is where our modeling tips and patterns can come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Merlin Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself are what we are striving for.


photo from the sites http://ouiliviamoraes.com/ http://my.goodhouse.com.

Modeling takes place on the basic pattern-based dress of a straight silhouette, without darts. To begin with, we will get rid of the dart on the back, on the shelf we will complete the depth of the fold, setting aside a distance of 12-15 cm from the middle of the part.Please note that one opposite fold is laid on top of the dress, and at the bottom there are two of them - one-sided, the depths are laid towards the side seams. The side seam lines are designed to create an oval silhouette. This model should be long above the knee, otherwise there may be excessive narrowing at the bottom.

Well, our lesson has come to an end, we have learned how to create simple dress patterns based on the basic pattern, such that beginners can cope with modeling and sewing, we talked about the types of figures. I think now you can please yourself with a new thing. Good luck and creative mood!

If you often sew, then you know that any product can be modeled using a base pattern. Precisely the precision of the base design, be it a dress, blouse, jacket or any other product, is the key to a perfect fit and successful tailoring. A precise base pattern will allow you to sew any dress without numerous fittings, get real pleasure from work and results. It remains only to learn and independently build such a structure - so that it smoothly fits the figure, gives freedom of movement and meets the requirements of the silhouette of the product. Silhouettes of dresses are divided into several types: very close-fitting, close-fitting, semi-close, straight. In order for your dress to "fit" perfectly, you should correctly increase the freedom of fit when building the base. How to make them correctly and how to build an exact pattern, the basis of the dress, we will tell you in this article.

  1. Dress length 100cm
  2. Back length to waist 43 cm
  3. Front length to waist 47 cm
  4. Shoulder length 12cm
  5. Semi-girth of the neck 19 cm
  6. Half-girth over chest 44 cm
  7. Semi-girth 48 cm
  8. Half waist 38 cm
  9. Semi-girth of the hips 51 cm
  10. Hips height 20cm
  11. The distance between the high points of the chest 20 cm

IMPORTANT!All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a chest circumference (OG) of more than 80 cm.

Drawing a dress pattern

The construction of the dress pattern begins by drawing a rectangle ABCD.

Dress width. The rectangle lines AB and DC are equal to the half-girth of the chest by the measure plus an increase in freedom of fitting from: AB = DC = 48 cm + an increase in freedom of fitting.

IMPORTANT! When constructing a dress pattern, it is necessary to take into account the increments shown in Table 1. There you will also find detailed instructions on how to use them.

Dress length. The lines of the rectangle AD and BC are equal to 100 centimeters (the length of the dress by the measure).

Pattern-base dress: 1 stage of design

Armhole depth. From point A, the Depth of the Armhole is laid down with an increase and point G is set (GPr = 1/10 of the Circumference of the Chest + 10.5 cm = 9.6 + 10.5 = 20 + increase).
From point G, a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC, and the point of intersection is designated G1.

The waist line of the dress. From point A, 43 cm is laid down (the length of the back to the waist according to the measure) and point T is set. From point T to the right, draw a line until it intersects with the line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter T1.

The line of the hips of the dress. From point T, 20 cm is laid down (the height of the hips by measure) and point L is set, from which a line is drawn to the right until it intersects with the line BC. The intersection point is designated by the letter L1.

Dress back width (SHS). From point G to the right, lay the width of the back and set the point G2 (SHS = (1/8 Chest Girth + 5.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in freedom of fit from Table 1).

Note. For a very tight-fitting silhouette, the increase in Back Width, Armhole Width and Front Width can be omitted, but the fabric should be chosen with elastic fibers.

From point G2, a line is drawn up to the intersection with line AB and the point of intersection is designated by the letter P.

Dress armhole width (SPR). From point G2 to the right, lay the width of the armhole G2G3 (G2G3 = (1/8 Chest Circumference - 1.5 cm) for all sizes, plus an increase in the freedom of fitting from Table 1.

Raising the shelf of the dress. From point T1, 47 cm is laid up and point W is set (Length of the front to the waist by measure).
Draw a horizontal line from point Ш to the left. Raise the perpendicular from the point G3. At the intersection of the lines, point P1 was obtained, and the point of intersection with the line AB is denoted by the letter P2.

Side line of the dress. G2G3 is divided in half. Point G4. From the point G4, the line is lowered down to the intersection with the DC line; its intersection with the TT1 line is denoted by the letter T2, and the intersection with the LL1 line is denoted by the letter L2.

Auxiliary points of the shoulder and armhole. Lines PG2 and P2G3 are divided into four equal parts.

Calculation of tackle darts. The surplus of fabric for darts at the waist is calculated using the formula: Bust half minus waist half = 48-38 = 10 cm.

Of these, 1/3 of them are removed into the side darts - 1.5 cm each in the back and in front of the dress, the remaining 7 cm are distributed in the back and in front - 4 cm are removed into the dart along the back of the dress, 3 cm - in the front of the dress. For additional fitting (if necessary), make a second dart along the front and another along the central seam of the back.

Pattern-base dress: 2 design stage

Back construction

Neckline of the dress. From point A to the right, lay 6.5 centimeters (1/3 the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19/3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From the point 6.8, 2 centimeters are laid up. Points A and 2 are connected by a concave line.

The slope of the shoulder of the dress. From point P, 1.5 centimeters are laid down.

Shoulder line. From point 2 (neckline) through point 1.5 (shoulder tilt), draw a shoulder line 12 centimeters long (shoulder length by measure plus 0-1 centimeter pa landing for all sizes).

Important! The shoulder of the back rests slightly when sewing the product.

Dress armhole line. From point G2, dividing the angle in half, lay 2 cm. The armhole line is drawn through points 12, the midpoint of the division line PG2, points 2 and G4.

Dart on the waist line of the dress. The distance T-1.5 is divided in half, from the point of division to the left and to the right, 2 cm are laid and then vertical lines are drawn up and down as shown in the drawing. From the line of the armhole lay down 3-4 cm, from the line of the hips up 2 cm.Points 2 (tuck depth) are connected to points with points 3-4 and 2.

Pattern-base dress: 3 design stage

Building the front of the dress

Neckline of the dress. From point W to the left, lay 6.8 cm and set point W1 (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 0.5 centimeters for all sizes): 19: 3 + 0.5 = 6.8.
From point W, 7.8 cm is laid down (1/3 of the half-girth of the neck by measure plus 1.5 cm for all sizes): 19: 3 + 1.5 = 7.8 cm.
Points Ш1 and 7.8 are connected with a dashed line, divide it in half, and 6.8 centimeters are laid from point Ш through the dividing point of the dotted line. Points Ш1, 6.8 and 7.8 are connected by a concave line.

Shoulder length from dress neckline to bust dart. From point Ш1, 4 centimeters are laid to the left and 1 centimeter is laid down from this point. Points Ш1 and 1 are connected. From point Г1 to the left, lay 1/2 the distance between the high points of the chest Г1Г5 = 20/2 = 10 cm Points 1 (shoulder) and Г5 are connected.

Bust dart of the dress. The right side of the chest dart 1-G5 is divided in half and 4 cm is laid from the dividing point to the left (the half-girth of the chest by the measure minus the half-girth above the chest by the measure: 48 - 44 = 4.
The left dart line is drawn from point G5 through point 4 with a length equal to 1-G5 (right side of the dart), point P3 is obtained.

Shoulder length from bust dress to armhole. Point P3 is connected to the upper dividing point of the line PG2 (back). Then from point P3 along the dotted line to the left, lay 7.5 cm (shoulder length minus 4.5 cm): 12-4.5 = 7.5 cm.
Point 7.5 and the lower dividing point of the line P2G3 are connected with a dotted line. From the point 7.5 along the dotted line, 1.5 cm is laid down (shoulder tilt). Points 1.5 and P3 are connected.

Dress armhole line. The dotted line from point 1.5 to the lower dividing point of the P2G3 line is halved and 1 centimeter is set aside from the dividing point to the right. From point G3, dividing the angle in half, lay 2 centimeters. The armhole line is drawn through points 1.5, 1, the lower dividing point of the line P2G3, point 2 and, touching the armhole descent line, to point G4.

Dart at the waist line (front). From point G5 (the top of the chest dart), a perpendicular is drawn down to the line of the hips. From the point G5, 5-6 centimeters are laid down. Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line to the left and right. Points 5-6 are connected to points 1.5 and 1.5 and carried out to the hip line.

Dart on the waist line of the dress (side). From the point G3 to the right, lay down 3 cm and lower the dotted line down to the intersection with the line of the thighs. From the point of intersection of the hip line, 1.5 centimeters are laid up, and from point 3 down 7-8 cm.Then, from the point of intersection with the waist line, 1 cm is laid to the right and left and connected to points 7-8 and 1.5.

What is important to consider when building a dress pattern

Important! If the half-girth of the hips by your measurement turns out to be larger than the one according to the drawing, then 1/2 of the difference between the half-girth of the hips by the measure and the half-girth of the chest is added to the front of the dress and 1/2 to the back of the dress.

The line of the hips of the back and front. The lack of volume in the thighs is calculated by the formula: Half hip circumference by measure minus Half chest circumference by measure = 51-48 = 3 cm. Half of the obtained value is added to the back and half to the front (1.5 cm each).

Side seam of the back of the dress. From point T2 to the left, lay 1.5 cm, from point L2 to the right, lay 1.5 cm.The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further to the intersection with the DC line.

Side seam of the front of the dress. From point T2 to the right, lay 1.5 cm, from point L2 to the left, lay 1.5 cm.The line of the side seam is drawn from point G4, 1.5 (waist), 1.5 (hips) and further until it intersects with the DC line.

For a dress with a sleeve, you need to build and pattern the sleeve:

Especially for beginners!

You will find even more creative ideas and patterns on the site of Anastasia Korfiati Sewing School. Subscribe to the free newsletter of our lessons!

In today's lesson, we will analyze the modeling of p dress of the fitted silhouette. The bodice of the dress is decorated with relief seams, the neckline is decorated with a boat neckline. Sleeveless dress. Skirt sun.

For modeling, we will take small volume patterns, pattern 125


 Step 1. Draw the neckline. We transfer the waist darts closer to the side seams.

Step 2. Mark the location of the embossed seams from the armhole and on the sides of the darts. We outline the waist line. Along the back along the waist line, along the front we make a descent of approx. 1cm.


Step 3. On the bodice of the back, draw a relief seam with a smooth line, cut the back along the line of the embossed seam.


Step 4. On the front bodice, transfer the chest dart to the armhole, connect it to the end of the waist dart. Cut along the relief line, then along the side of the dart. We draw reliefs with a smooth line.


Step 5. On the cut back panel, mark the dividing lines for breeding. Divide the tuck solution by the number of lines. We mark the desired length of the skirt. We part the details of the panel to a right angle. We do the same with the front panel.


Step 6. We get in a cut:

1) backrest 2 children.
2) back side flank 2 children.
3) front barrel 2 children.
4) the central part of the front 1 children. folded
5) combined (combined facing of the neckline and armholes) facing backrest 2 children.
6) combined front facing 1 det. folded
7) the back panel of the skirt 2 pcs.
8) the front panel of the skirt 1 det. folded

Where does the design begin ...

Or how to build a dress for yourself for the first time.

In the previous article, from the series "How to start designing", we examined the construction of the baseline grid of the drawing for a dress of a semi-adjacent silhouette.

In this article, we continue to build the dress, and the next step is:

STEP 3: BUILDCENTER LINE BACK.

First, consider the definition of what is the middle line of the back.

As you know, the back of a human figure has bends in accordance with the anatomical features of the spine, midline of the back in clothes- This is a vertical structural element located in the middle of the back along the spine, which participates in the shaping of the silhouette of the product, providing either the fit or the vertical shape of the product along the back. See the figure below, here is an example of the extent to which the middle line of the back is adjacent to the figure in a semi-adjacent silhouette.

The following figure shows a view of the middle seam of the back of a semi-adjacent silhouette, on the reference grid of the drawing.

Depending on the silhouette and shape of clothing, the middle seam of the back also has different types and different ways of construction, for more information, read the article "Types of the middle seam of the back, and methods of construction."

And we continue, and now we will take a closer look at where to start and how to finish the middle seam of the back, for our dress.

Conventionally, this process can be divided into several steps:

1 Determination of the position of the line of blades

2 Building a line of attachment to the upper back

3 Creation of the construction line of the middle

4 Construction of the middle seam, construction of the back bottom line.


1) Determine the position of the line of the shoulder blades, point Have on the grid of the drawing, according to the formula 0.4 * TPA. We put the resulting value down vertically from the point A. From the received point Have draw an auxiliary horizontal line of arbitrary length.


2) From point A horizontally to the right, set aside the distance from 0.5 to 1 cm, point A2. Connect the dot A2 and point Have... Line A2U- ensures the fit of the product in the area of ​​the neck of the back.

3) From point T to the right horizontally set aside the distance from 1.5 to 2 cm, point T2. Connect the dots Have and T2 and extend the resulting line down to the intersection with the bottom line.

4) From point T2 to the right horizontally set aside the distance from 0 to 1.5 cm, point T22. Section T2-T22 ensures that the middle seam of the back is adhered to the waist. Next, connect the Point Have with dot T22 and from point T22 lower the vertical down, or connect T22 with dot B2.

The options depend on what shape the buttocks are, if they are flat, we lower the vertical down from T22. If the form is expressed, then the second option.

And finally, we restore the perpendicular, at the point of intersection of the midline of the back with the line HH1.