Adjusting the finished pattern to size. Increasing or decreasing a dress or blouse pattern How to change a pattern by width Reduce a dress pattern by height

In its publications, Burda offers patterns of various sizes; it may happen that specifically for the model you have chosen, a pattern is offered that is one size different from yours. Especially for such cases,
so that you don’t have to give up your favorite model, we will show you how to reduce or increase the pattern by one size. Do not measure the details of the pattern, but only change the pattern to the number of centimeters required according to the size table.

By comparing the tabular measurements of chest, waist and hips, you will find that measurements from sizes 34 to 46 differ by 4 cm, and sizes 46 and large sizes differ by 6 cm. In the pictures, the numbers on the auxiliary lines mean a change in width by 4 cm, and the numbers in brackets are 6 cm.
Draw vertical and horizontal auxiliary (dashed) lines (1) on the pattern pieces.

To change the width cut the pieces along vertical lines. If you want to enlarge the pattern, move the parts of the part apart by the specified amount and glue the part to the attached strip of paper. At the side seams, expand the part by the number of centimeters indicated in the figure. Want to
reduce the pattern - glue the parts of the cut part, placing them on top of each other and thus reducing the width of the part by the specified number of centimeters.

To change the length cut the pattern pieces along the horizontal auxiliary lines. The length of the back should be shortened or extended by 0.5 cm, and the length of the front to the waist - by 1 cm.
To equalize the side seams of the front and back after changing the details, the front and back under the armhole are lengthened or shortened by 0.5 cm. The missing 0.5 cm is compensated at the front dart. The change line is drawn so that it passes through the top of the dart and divides the dart exactly in half.

Important: For models with a dart from the waistline or with a raised seam, lengthen or shorten the front by 0.5 cm at chest height as explained in Figures 7 and 8. For models that do not have darts, lengthen the pattern by adding 0.5 cm at half the height of the armhole. Reducing the pattern. You can neglect this increase.

The sleeve should fit the armhole, to do this, narrow or widen the sleeve at the seams, negating the change in the downward direction, by the same amount by which the front and back were changed at the side seam.
For two-seam sleeves, the width of the lower part of the sleeve changes by the number of centimeters by which the front and back at the side seam were changed.
To change the width of a model with raglan sleeves, draw vertical lines, connecting the sleeve parts, starting from the top edge, with the front and back parts along the raglan stitching lines (2).

Hello my dears!

I hope that the previous tips were useful to you, so I will continue to give you my little tips. I myself, when I was just starting to learn “sewing” (how long ago that was!), eagerly caught every piece of advice from experienced seamstresses, their secrets in sewing technology, “tricks”, as it is now fashionable to say. In general, I loved and love to study, to learn something new every day - which is what I wish for you!

How to change the size Maybe increase, or maybe decrease? Perhaps your height is not the same as shown in the pattern of the model you have chosen? Maybe you are satisfied with the size, but not satisfied with the fullness?

There is a way out of this situation, that is, you can reduce the size of the pattern, or you can increase it according to your desire. One thing you just need to take into account is that changing the pattern of a model of a complex style can change, distort the model itself, that is, as a result of your manipulations with the pattern, in the end you can sew something completely different from what you intended to sew.

Patterns of simple shapes can easily be changed by 1-2 sizes, or rather, you can reduce them by 2 sizes, but increase them even by 4. Look at my drawings (I apologize, they didn’t turn out very well) and let’s start cutting patterns. First, let's look at this issue using the example of a one-piece dress pattern.

1. First, you need to draw a vertical line with a felt-tip pen (see the direction of the grain thread marked on the pattern) in the middle of each paper pattern piece you have.
2. Then cut the parts along the line you marked and carefully move them apart to the distance you need (if you need to increase the pattern) or fold them (if you are reducing the pattern)
3. How much - to spread it out a little or a lot or lay it in? Here you need to focus on your individual measurements. I do it very simply. For example, I take the measurement of the widest part of my figure POb. (half hip circumference), divided in half. From the result obtained, I subtract the pattern measurement at hip level and by this amount I spread or fold the pattern piece.

1. Now all that remains is to carefully connect the new parts (I connect them with tape) and transfer the parts of the pattern with the new sizes to another sheet of paper, aligning the contours of the pattern. It is also necessary to make the necessary changes along the line that marks the neckline - increase it or, conversely, make it smaller, but always remember that it is better to remove excess fabric at the first fitting. If the pattern has a chest dart, change it by 0.9 cm, but the dart on the back does not change.

It will be a little more difficult to scale up or down a pattern with very curved edges.

1. To maintain the existing shape, you need to draw more vertical lines, for example - 3.
2. In the same way, move the cut parts apart to the required distance and secure with tape. By the way, here you can model. If you want the head of the future dress to be fuller and more voluminous, move it further towards the top of the pattern. If you want the bottom of the sleeve to be narrowed, reduce the distance at the bottom of the sleeve.
3. Now all you have to do is connect the contour of the future pattern with a smooth line, and then transfer the fixed, new pattern shape to a new sheet of paper. Attention - do not forget about the increases.

Changing the details of the pattern of trousers, as well as a skirt (the principle for a belt product is no different) is also not difficult.

1. If we talk about trousers, then to increase or decrease height, draw horizontal lines on the pattern pieces: the first - at hip level, the second - at knee level. Having cut along the intended lines, proceed in the same way with the pattern of a one-piece dress - spread apart or, conversely, lay the folds to the distance you need.
2. The length of the skirt usually varies along the bottom of the pattern or along the yoke line + along the hip line by 0.5 cm.
3. To add fullness, draw vertical lines (as in the picture) and do the same as you did before, that is, move apart or fold folds.
4. Change the length of the product along the bottom of the pattern, and move the pockets, if they are provided in the pattern, by 1.0 - 1.2 cm.

And lastly, be sure to check at the end of all the work that all the changes you have made are correct, comparing the resulting pattern with the one that was at the beginning. On the new pattern, check all the measurements, comparing them with your measurements, not forgetting the allowances. Difficult? I think no. Have fun and good luck!

There are situations when you really like the bodice from one sample model, and the skirt from another. What to do in this situation?

For those who want to learn how to adjust ready-made patterns from fashion magazines to suit their figure, I have prepared a video. Using the example given in the video, you can adjust any shoulder pattern to fit yourself. Good luck everyone!

How to shorten a pattern? If your height does not match the height for which the pattern is designed, do not despair! It is not difficult to adjust the pattern according to height, and we will tell you in detail how to do this. Now we will talk about how to shorten the pattern. Standard patterns in sewing magazines, as a rule, are designed for a height of 168 cm. If you sew clothes using such a pattern and put them on a woman with a height of 162 cm, the result will be sad. Too long sleeves, low waist, long legs...

This is why pattern adjustments are necessary!

The easiest way is to change the pattern if the main dimensions (except height) suit you. The main size for shoulder products will be the chest circumference, and for skirts and trousers - the hip circumference. To determine how many centimeters you need to shorten your pattern, compare your measurements with the pattern manufacturer's measurement chart. Back length, sleeve length and crotch length are the dimensions that you need to compare. To adjust the patterns, we will draw auxiliary lines. Please note that they must be at right angles to the direction of the grain thread!

How to shorten a pattern for a blouse, dress, jacket, jacket or coat? You will need to draw three auxiliary lines on the main front and back pattern. The first of them should pass at ½ the height of the armhole, the second - between the armhole and the waist, and the third - approximately 15 cm below the waist. Divide the required number of millimeters by which the length should be shortened into three parts. We will remove the first third at the level of the first auxiliary line, and the remaining two thirds at the level of the second line. At the level of the third line, another 1 cm must be removed.

These changes also affect the sleeve pattern, since the length of the armhole line changes. Draw an auxiliary line at half the height of the edging and shorten the pattern by the same amount as the front/back pattern on the first level.

A sleeve with a flat head (low edge) is adjusted along the seam lines, narrowing them towards the lower cut.

In addition, the sleeve length is reduced on the auxiliary line, which is drawn in the middle of the pattern.

The model with a vertical dart requires special attention! Cut the pattern, starting at the side seam and ending at the top of the dart. Connect the edges along the bottom cut and secure. Draw adjustment lines, shorten the pattern, and then glue the temporary bust dart back together.

How to shorten a trouser pattern? You will also need three additional lines: at half the height of the step, at half the length from the step to the knee, and at half the length from the knee to the bottom. On the first line, shorten the length of the trousers by 1 cm, divide the rest in half and remove along the other two lines.

The skirt pattern is shortened along the hips. However, if you are sewing a model that is narrowed or widened at the bottom, change the length at half the length from the knee to the hip line.

How to adjust a pattern?

To carefully alter the pattern, draw two more parallel lines above and below the auxiliary line. The distance between these two lines should be the required length to adjust the pattern.

Fold the pattern along these lines, and then align and seal the resulting fold.

Your new pattern is ready!

It often happens that we find a model we like in a magazine, but the sizes in the description are larger or smaller than the one we need. Without fear of distortion of the cut, you can increase or decrease the pattern by 1-4 sizes by using some technologies. Let's say, from size 48 make 46 or 50. Let's figure out how to do it correctly.

So, having copied the pattern from the magazine, check the following measurements: chest circumference, waist, hips, front length to waist, front and back width, back length, neck circumference. Write down the resulting difference between your measurements and the size of the pattern - this will be the size of your increases.

If the cut of a dress or blouse is simple - without undercuts, hems, then increases and decreases are distributed along the lines shown in Figure 1. As you can see, they do not affect the undercuts: their depth and location do not change.

Draw the same vertical and horizontal lines on your pattern. Check your measurements (bust, waist, hips, etc.) with the pattern measurements and note where and what changes need to be made. Figure 2 shows an increase in the pattern by one size, when you need to add 4 cm around the chest circumference. These 4 cm can, of course, be distributed along the side seams, but the shape of the cut will be better preserved if the increases are distributed in different places: half a centimeter along the vertical lines front, back, side seams and horizontally, as shown in the diagram. Amendments are also made to the sleeve - along the middle vertical line at the top of the side seam, the dart is not affected. The pattern is cut in places where there are increases, moved apart, and a new pattern is drawn along the new lines, which is then tried on.

Figure 3 shows reducing the pattern by one size. The principle is the same, only the excess is removed, the pattern in places of decreases is pinned or glued.

If the cut is complex, for example, a barrel-length dress, then you can only increase and decrease along the horizontal lines shown in Figure 4 and in the side seams. The hem lines are left untouched so as not to distort the silhouette of the dress. Figure 5 shows where changes are made to the jacket pattern when the height needs to be increased or the size reduced. Naturally, the lines of the shoulder, sides, etc. are then aligned.

In a straight skirt, Figure 6, changes are made on both sides of the pattern (that is, in the center and sides of the skirt), they do not concern darts and folds. In a flared skirt, Figure 7, you can add or decrease only in the upper part of the skirt (along the waist and hips) and do not change the width of the bottom. How to fit a sleeve is shown in Figure 8: the excess is pinned and added along the hem, seams and central vertical.

How to “stretch” a trouser pattern is shown in Figure 9. The length of the trousers is not regulated by just hemming the bottom. You need to cut the pattern twice horizontally (at the top and along the knee line) and once vertically.

After you have made a bed that suits you in size, you need to calculate the number of loops for the initial set, because In the description this figure is indicated for a different size. To do this, you need to knit a sample with the same viscous yarn that will be used to make the product, steam it and calculate the density (how many loops are in 1 cm in height and width). By multiplying these numbers by the width and height of the product, respectively, you will find out how many loops you need to cast on for the initial knitting and how many rows in height to knit.

Usually, if the knitting of a product begins with an elastic band, for example, the front of a sweater, I cast on 5-7 fewer stitches and knit the elastic with one number less knitting needles. In this case, the elastic band does not stretch when wearing the product. After the elastic band is knitted, add the missing loops with yarn overs, distributing them over the entire total number of loops.

Before cutting, you need to compare your measurements with the parameters of the pattern. For trousers there are three main measurements: waist circumference, hip circumference and trouser length. It is imperative to take into account the allowance for freedom of fit.

See the picture for how to change the pattern size.

Increase in width.

Cut along the marked vertical lines (lobar) and spread each half of the trousers to the required size.

Reducing width.

Cut along the marked vertical lines (lobar) and move each half of the trousers to the required amount.

Optimally - no more than 1 cm.

Advice: If you want to guarantee an excellent fit for yourself or your client, You should not change the pattern by more than one size using the method described above!

As for me, then the best way is to build a pattern according to the measurements taken. It just seems like drawing a drawing is a hassle. In fact, it will only take a few minutes. Moreover, this pattern can be used more than once to model other styles of trousers.

And one more argument in favor of constructing a pattern according to the measurements taken - this will be YOUR experience, and this is a different category of values. Experience cannot be bought, it cannot be learned, it can only be acquired by performing some action.

But the choice is yours in any case.

I wish you courage, determination and faith in your strength.

To be continued in future publications.