Dangerous beauty: harmful substances in cosmetics

Did you know that mascaras can cause blindness, lipsticks can cause cancer, and eye creams can cause infertility? Meanwhile, such tragic precedents did exist. In order not to fall for the bait of careless manufacturers, you need to learn to understand cosmetics and read product labels.

It is fascinating and pleasant to use care products that support youth, beauty and health of the skin, and decorative cosmetics that transform the appearance of the fair sex. Every day you can create new images, changing roles like gloves.

Cosmetics are not just a palette of bright colors and fragrant products - they are a woman's mood, her inspiration for every day. And it is very important that all beauty products are, if not useful for the skin of the face and body, then at least safe for the body as a whole.

Dangerous beauty: an inconvenient truth

On the beauty market today you can find cosmetics with a variety of properties. The promises of the manufacturers on the labels of the products are so multifaceted that the magical properties of Azazello's cream from Bulgakov's famous novel The Master and Margarita seem like childish babble compared to them. Modern creams, serums, fluids, masks and gels "act at a deep level", "promote cell renewal" and "start the processes of skin restoration and getting rid of wrinkles and age spots." And it would not be so sad if all this was true.

But, unfortunately, the reality is that so many beauty products not only do not help the skin look and feel better, but also worsen its condition and undermine its health day after day. The latest research by scientists, as well as numerous lawsuits against the giants of the beauty industry, indicate that the world of cosmetics is, first of all, a business in which intrigues are woven, sometimes more sophisticated than in the oil market, important facts are classified and elementary rules are ignored. security.

Harmful substances in cosmetics: unjustified risk

Scientists estimate that every year a woman's body gets about 2.5 kilograms of cosmetics. Creams, lotions and masks are absorbed, lipstick and lip balms are eaten. Everything that we use in home care for face and body, one way or another, penetrates our body, accumulating there for years. Many of the fair sex do not even know what results a woman's natural desire to be young and beautiful can lead to!

Using multiple cosmetics at the same time significantly increases this risk. The fact is that mixing some components of cosmetics poses a real threat to health. If you are masterly experimenting with creams and there are at least 10 of them on your dressing table, or you apply multi-layered makeup every morning, creating the illusion of a model appearance, be especially careful! You are at risk.

According to some beauty experts, modern cosmetic products do not pose a direct threat to the human body. Undesirable consequences occur when several factors come into play at once - long-term use of a certain group of drugs, genetic predisposition, reduced immunity, tendency to allergies, etc. But the latest scientific research suggests that there are plenty of potentially dangerous substances in cosmetics today, and who knows how they affect you ...

• Parabens

They are very common in budget cosmetics. You can find them in creams and fluids, cleansing foams and micellar water, shampoos and shower gels. They have a bactericidal effect, are used as preservatives or antibacterial substances.

Recently, a lot has been said about the dangers of parabens, but there is still no confirmed scientific evidence sufficient to prohibit their widespread use. It is known that parabens are antiandrogens, that is, they can inhibit the activity of male sex hormones. But for women, their presence in the composition of care products will not do anything good. There is an opinion that parabens cause breast cancer, so their high concentration was found in 18 out of 20 malignant tumors.

But that's not all! For many women, parabens cause skin allergies, inflammation and irritation. When cosmetics interact with parabens with the sun's rays, the aging of the cover is accelerated.

On the label, parabens are designated as follows: propylparaben, methylparaben, butylparaben.

• Phthalates

If a rating of the most dangerous ingredients in cosmetics was compiled, then phthalates would most likely receive the palm. These are highly toxic and dangerous compounds. In many countries, their inclusion in cosmetics is prohibited at the legislative level, but in Russia and the CIS countries there is no such ban yet. The action of phthalates is such that they can cause genetic mutations in future offspring, disrupt the normal functioning of the endocrine and nervous systems, reduce fertility and lead to infertility.

The worst thing about phthalates is that manufacturers don't always list them on the product label. And they are often found in nail varnishes, they can be included in the composition of decorative and care cosmetics.

The label indicates diethyl phthalate, di-n ‑ butyl phthalate, di-isobutyl phthalate, phthalates... Sometimes they hide behind the mask of harmless ingredients like Parfum or Aroma. In order not to inadvertently harm your health, choose beauty products without phthalates and marked “without fragrances”.

• Oxybenzone

It is present in the composition of many sunscreens, is an SPF filter, protects the skin from the negative effects of UV spectrum A. If you use cosmetics with it during pregnancy, there is a high risk of having a baby with a reduced body weight. In addition, this substance may contribute to the development of breast cancer in women.

On the label it is indicated oxybenzone or BP ‑ 3.

• Triclosan

If you use antibacterial creams, soaps and gels for intimate hygiene, you have come across this substance more than once. It is also included in wet wipes, acne treatment products, deodorants, and shaving creams. This component of cosmetics has been around for a long time, but few people know that it is very dangerous.

Triclosan is a carcinogenic component, toxic to the whole organism. Negatively affects the kidneys, lungs, liver, brain, can contribute to the onset of paralysis, decreased libido, cause thyroid disease.

The label indicates Triclosan.

• Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate

Sodium lauryl sulfate is widely used in the beauty industry and is often included in foams, gels, shampoos, soaps and other detergents formulas. Scientists call it one of the most dangerous ingredients for human skin and hair. Recent studies have shown that this substance penetrates the brain, liver, heart and eyes, accumulates in the body. It can cause cataracts, provoke allergic skin rashes, lead to dryness and peeling of the skin, contribute to thinning hair and dandruff.

Sodium laureth sulfate has identical properties, quickly penetrates into the tissues of the body and settles there, doing its "dirty" work. Carcinogenic. Irritates skin and eyes, causes hair loss and dandruff, provokes serious allergic reactions.

On the label of cosmetics, they are indicated as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES).

Expert opinion

To minimize health risks, use only natural cosmetics, read product labels carefully, and do not neglect homemade beauty recipes. Remember: we live in a time when our health is in our hands!

Olga Voshchenina, dermatovenerologist, cosmetologist of the author's clinic Neo Vita

When choosing cosmetics, special attention should be paid to cleansers, because the effectiveness of the rest of the care depends on them - masks, creams, serums, etc.

Train yourself to carefully study the composition indicated on the label. The reason to refuse the purchase should be the presence in the composition of sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate. These are the so-called surface active substances (surfactants), which have a very aggressive effect on the skin - they destroy the skin's own water-lipid protective mantle, dehydrate it, cause dryness, irritation, and a decrease in skin immunity. The result will be premature aging of the skin, the appearance of a network of fine and deep wrinkles.

As for creams, lotions and emulsions, you also need to look at the composition, paying attention to the amount of preservatives and fragrances. Unfortunately, they are found in almost any modern cosmetic product, the only question is their quantity. If it is not possible to ask the help of a beautician when choosing cosmetics, I would advise you not to buy into big names and expensive brands, but more often look at the pharmacy. There you can find cosmetics from specialized dermatological lines, originally designed for sensitive skin. For this reason, there are obviously fewer flavors and preservatives. In addition, dermatological cosmetics are produced in pharmaceutical factories, where certification and quality control are much stricter, so there is less chance of attacking a low-quality product.

Karina Konstantinovna Pushkova, dermatocosmetologist, "Beautiful Life" clinic

Today, there are a huge number of cosmetic brands. Many patients ask me, is it possible to make a choice on my own? To do this, you need to know a few simple rules that you should adhere to when purchasing cosmetics.

To begin with, the composition of the preparations must be indicated in the language of the country where you buy these cosmetics. If it is of foreign production, there must be a sticker with a translation. On June 1, 2014, a regulation came into force in Russia, from which it follows that all manufacturers must indicate all cosmetic ingredients in full, and not be limited only to “active ingredients”. All components, depending on their concentration, are listed from top to bottom, that is, the first in the list are the components that are most contained in this product. Asterisks * mark organic components, which is important when choosing.

When choosing a daily face care product, it is worth considering the presence of allergies, respectively, to avoid drugs with such components that can provoke them. Owners of dry and sensitive skin should exclude products containing ethanol (alcohol) from their daily care. It is worth paying special attention to components such as parabens, sulfates, silicones. The presence in the composition of parabens, one of the most popular preservatives in the cosmetic industry, makes it possible to increase the storage period, but does not exclude its harm. Sulfates - salts of sulfuric acid, make the products foam heavily (gels, shampoos), are dangerous for their aggressive effect on the epidermis. The accumulation of sulfates can affect the development of cancer. Silicones are not particularly harmful, but like any preservative it has a negative effect on the skin and hair.

Natural products will include products that contain vegetable oils. It is worth noting here that such preparations, as a rule, are absorbed for a long time and leave a "greasy film". Therefore, manufacturers use additional components that are a good conductor for the delivery of nutrients from oils to fabrics.

When choosing cosmetics and cosmeceuticals for face care, I strongly recommend contacting specialists who will determine the type of your skin, point out the problems and the reasons for their occurrence. And already in accordance with this, they will help you to correctly select the means that will solve them without harming you.

To make the right choice when buying cosmetics, it is important to familiarize yourself with the list of harmful substances that manufacturers add. Regardless of the price, these substances can be both expensive and cheap. Therefore, carefully read the composition and be sure to pay attention to the shelf life of the product.

On the one hand, almost the entire composition of any cosmetic product is harmful. But it is important in what quantities and proportions these substances are contained in the product. Unfortunately, we cannot find out in advance whether the manufacturer has gone too far with them or not.

The most common harmful substances are: mineral oil (MineralOil / Petrolatum) and propylene glycol in moisturizers, sodium lauryl sulfate in shampoos, parabens, formaldehydes, formaldehyde derivatives and many others. Some of the substances used cause cancer and reproductive disorders.

Whenever possible, try to choose cosmetics where the content of harmful substances is the lowest, most often it is natural cosmetics. Remember that it does not last long. If it says that it can be stored for 3 years, then this is no longer natural cosmetics! Take care of yourself and always be beautiful!

Take the test This test is for WOMEN ONLY. How do you feel physically? Let's check it out with the test suggested by the Portuguese experts. He will help you determine the level of your well-being.

Let's together critically analyze in which points the author of the list was mistaken, and in which he was right. Write your reasons in the comments!

Note:
list sorted in Russian alphabet.

If the labels on the packaging are in English, see.

Not all ingredients on the list are hazardous to your health, read the explanations for the specific ingredient.

Unfamiliar words:

Carcinogenic(cancer - cancer) - dangerous and toxic substances that cause malignant tumors.

Mutagenic- dangerous substances that produce changes inside cells at the genetic level, i.e. change the structure of cells.

1,2-Dichloroethene, Acetylene dichloride, Sim-Dichlorethylene - Dioform.

Used in many toothpastes and other teeth whiteners. Damages tooth enamel.

Alkylphenol ethoxylate - Alkyl-phenol-ethoxylades.

Reduces the number of male sperm by mimicking the action of estrogen. It is widely used in shampoos.

Alcohol, Alcohol - Alcohol.

Acts as a vehicle and prevents foaming. Dries quickly. Synthetic alcohol (as opposed to microbiological) is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance that causes adverse reactions in the body.

Albumin - Albumin.

Albumin is the main ingredient in skin-tightening formulations. It is advertised as an anti-wrinkle treatment. Formulated with Bovine Serum Albumin (Bovine Serum Albumin), when dry, it coats wrinkles with a film that makes them look less noticeable. Has a negative effect on the skin.

The last time a serious customer complaint was filed was in the 1960s. Both of these drugs were wrinkle removers. The composition contained bovine serum albumin, which, when dried, formed a film over the wrinkles and made them less visible ...

Alpha Hydroxide Acids, Alpha Hydrax Acids - AHA's.

Old cells are exfoliated from the surface of the skin, after which only fresh young cells remain on it. The skin looks younger and less wrinkled. By removing the outer layer of dead cells, we also remove the first and most important protective layer of the skin. In this case, harmful environmental factors that contribute to skin aging penetrate into it faster and deeper. As a result, the skin ages prematurely.

Aluminum - Aluminum.

It is used as a color additive in cosmetics, especially in eyelash shadows, as well as in deodorants and antiperspirants. Harmful.

Flavors - Fragrances..

Aromatic additives for most cosmetic preparations. They contain up to 1000 synthetic substances, which are mostly carcinogenic. May cause headaches, dizziness, allergic rashes, skin discoloration, severe coughing and vomiting, and skin irritation. Clinical observation proves that aromas can affect the central nervous system and cause depression, irritability, etc.

Acetamide, Acetic Acid Amide - Acetamide MEA.

Used in lipsticks and blushers to retain moisture. It is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance.

Benzene, Aromatic Hydrocarbon - Benzene.

Benzene is a bone marrow poison. In combination with other components, it is widely used in cosmetics. It is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance.

Bentonite - Bentonite.

Bentonite - 1. Highly plastic clay, 2. Grade of bleaching clay. It is a natural mineral that is used in masks, powder and other cosmetics. It differs from ordinary clay in that it forms a gel when mixed with liquid. Bentonite is thought to be able to draw out toxins.
It is a porous clay that quickly absorbs moisture from the skin. Forms gas-tight films.
Intensively retains toxins and carbon dioxide, preventing skin breathing and excretion of waste products. Strangles the skin by cutting off oxygen. Bentonite particles can have sharp edges and scratch the skin. Comedogenic. Experiments on mice have shown high toxicity.

Biotin, vitamin H, vitamin B7, coenzyme R - Biotin (Vitamin H).

Biotin (Vitamin H) is an exotic ingredient that is touted as essential and beneficial for skin and hair care. Lack of this vitamin has been associated with oily skin and baldness in rats and other experimental animals. However, human hair is different from animal hair. Biotin deficiency is extremely rare, and therefore can be considered a completely useless supplement in cosmetic preparations. Moreover, the molecular weight of biotin is too large for it to penetrate the skin.

Bronopol, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, BNPD -Bronopol.

Forms nitrosamines, which are carcinogenic. The most expensive Chanel cosmetic line uses this ingredient. Even shops specializing in natural cosmetics sell products containing bronopol, although there are many other natural substitutes. It is very dangerous.

Butylhydroxyanisole, E320 - Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA).

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT).

An antioxidant widely used not only in cosmetics, but also in the food industry. It is quickly absorbed into the skin and stays in the tissues for a long time. Carcinogen.

Gamma Hexachloran - Lindane, hexachlorocyclohexane.

A pesticide used in agriculture. Trade names Kwell, linden, Bio-Well, GBH, G-well, Kildane, Kwildane, Scabene and Thionex. Add to creams, lotions and shampoos. Carcinogenic. Causes skin cancer. Very toxic to the nervous system. Damages the brain.

Hyaluronic acid, hyaluronate, hyaluronan - Hyaluronic acids.

This is the “latest squeak” in the cosmetics industry. It happens that cosmetic companies use only a small amount of this acid in their products, so long as the ingredient is mentioned in the composition on the sticker. It doesn't do the skin any good.

Glycerin (conditionally beneficial), 1,2,3-trihydroxypropane, 1,2,3-propanetriol - Glycerine.

Advertised as a beneficial moisturizer. It is a clear, syrupy liquid obtained by chemically combining water and fat. Water splits fat into smaller components - glycerol and fatty acids. This improves the penetrating power of creams and lotions and prevents them from losing moisture through evaporation. Glycerin is the basis of all fats. In general, fat is glycerin + fatty acids. Glycerin is prized in cosmetology for its moisturizing and moisture-retaining properties. Moisturizing effect - glycerin molecules are surrounded by water molecules (since glycerin has three hydrosilic groups) and, getting into the skin along with water, retains moisture.

But if you use a large percentage of glycerin - 40-50%, a harmful substance is formed by-side (this is what they talk about). Studies have shown that when the air humidity is below 65%, glycerin sucks water out of the skin to its full depth and holds it on the surface, instead of taking moisture from the air. Thus, it makes dry skin even drier.

Dimethylamine - Dimethylamine..

Carcinogen.

Dioxane, diethylenedioxide - 1,2-Dioxane –ethoxylated alcohols, 1,4 – dioxane, polysorbates, and laureths.

It is found in shampoos, conditioners, facial cleansing lotions, creams, soaps, and various household cleaners. Easily penetrate both the skin and the air into the body. Strong carcinogen. Causes cancer of the nasal septum, destroys the liver.

Dioxins, polychlorinated dibenzo-1,4-dioxins - Dioxins..

500,000 times more carcinogenic than DDT. Used to bleach paper. There are facts that confirm the presence of dioxins in milk and other dairy products that are packed in cardboard boxes, since paper bleaching was carried out using this substance.

Disodium EDTA - Disodium EDTA.

Hazardous carcinogen, may contain ethylene oxide and / or dixane.

DEA, Diethanolamine - diethanolamine, 2,2'-iminodiethanol 2,2'-dihydroxydiethylamine, DEA;
MEA, Monoethanolamine - Monoethanolamine (MEA);
TEA, Triethanolamine - Triethanolamine, TEA,
and others: Cocamide DEA -
Cocamide DEA, Diethanolamide;
DEA-Cetyl phosphate - DEA Cetyl phosphate;
DEA Oleth-3 phosphate - DEA-olef-3 phosphate,
Myristamide DEA;
Stearamide MEA - Stearamide MEA;
Cocamide MEA - Cocamide MEA,
Lauramide DEA - Loramide DEA,
Linoleamide MEA - Linoleamide MEA, a mixture of linoleic acid ethanolamides;
Oleamide DEA - Oleamide DEA;
TEA-Lauryl Sulfate - TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.)

Used as emulsifiers and foaming agents in facial cleansing lotions, shampoos, body and bath lotions, soaps, etc. Ethanolamines irritate eyes, skin and mucous membranes, and cause dermatitis. Diethanolamine easily penetrates the skin and is deposited in various organs, especially the brain. Animal tests have shown that this substance can be toxic to the kidneys, liver, brain, spinal cord, bone marrow and skin. These substances are carcinogenic.

Animal fat - Tallow (animal fat).

Animal fat: beef, pork. In cosmetics, it promotes the growth of bacterial colonies.

Isopropyl alcohol, propanol-2, isopropanol, dimethylcarbinol, IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol (SD-40).

Causes cancer of the mouth, tongue and throat. Used as a cleaning agent, as well as in cosmetics, perfumes, and mouthwashes. Poisoning symptoms - headache, nosebleeds, dizziness.

Imidazolidinyl Urea - Imidazolidinyl Urea.

After parabens, it is the most commonly used preservative in cosmetics. Colorless, odorless, tasteless substance. Add to powders, baby shampoos, colognes, eyeshadows, hair tonics and lotions.
Causes dermatitis. At high temperatures, it releases formaldehyde, which is very toxic.

Coal Tar, Coal Tar - Coal Tar.

Used in anti-dandruff shampoos. Usually put on labels under the names: FD, FDC or coloring FD&C.
Coal tar can cause serious illnesses: allergic reactions, asthma attacks, fatigue, nervousness, headaches, nausea, poor concentration, and cancer.

Carbomer, carbopol, 934, 940, 941, 960, 961 C - Carbomer.

It is used as a thickener and stabilizer in creams, toothpastes, eye makeup and bath products. Artificial emulsifier. May cause allergies and eye inflammation.

Quaternium-15 - Quaternium-15.

Used in cosmetics as a preservative and antimicrobial agent. Forms formaldehyde, which is highly toxic. Causes dermatitis.

Cocamide DEA, diethanolamide, NN-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amide of coconut oil - Cocamide DEA.

It is mainly found in shampoos. Contains nitrosamines which are known carcinogens.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine - Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Used in shampoos in combination with other surfactants (surfactants). Synthetic substance. Irritating to eyelids.

Collagen (not to be confused with vegetable liquid-soluble collagen), fibrillar protein - Collagen.

Collagen is a protein - the main part of the structural network of our skin. It is believed that with age, it begins to deteriorate, and the skin becomes thin and flabby. Some companies insist that collagen can improve the skin's own collagen structure. Others say that it is absorbed by the epidermis and moisturizes the skin.

Collagen is an insoluble fibrous protein whose molecule is too large to penetrate the skin. It is used in many cosmetic products. Obtained from animal skin or from milled chicken legs.

Collagen use is potentially harmful for the following reasons:

1. The large size of collagen molecules prevents its penetration into the skin. Instead of being beneficial, it settles on the surface of the skin, clogging pores and preventing water from evaporating just like industrial oil. Forms a film on the skin, under which the skin can suffocate. It's like playing tennis with a soccer ball. (The molecular weight of any ingredient must be 3000 to penetrate the skin, 800 - into the cell and 75 - to get into the blood. The molecular weight of the components of most cosmetic products and shampoos is 10,000).

2. Collagen used in cosmetics is obtained by scraping off the skins of cattle or from the lower legs of birds. Even if it penetrates the skin, its molecular composition and biochemistry are different from that of a human, and it cannot be used by the skin.

Lanolin, wool wax, animal wax - Lanolin.

Advertisers found that the words “contains lanolin” (advertised as a beneficial moisturizer) helped market the product, and in this regard, they began to claim that “it is able to penetrate the skin like no other oil”, although there is not enough scientific confirmations. Studies have found that lanolin causes sensitization of the skin, and even allergic rashes. There is a high content of pesticides, sometimes up to 50-60%. Very harmful to the skin: it clogs the pores, does not allow the skin to breathe. Possibly carcinogenic.

Ammonium laureth sulphate (ALS).

Easily penetrates the skin. Found in hair care products and bath foams. It is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate - SLES.

Similar ingredient to SLS (ester chain added). Found in 90% shampoos and conditioners. It is very cheap and thickens with the addition of salt. Forms a lot of foam and gives the illusion that it is thick, concentrated and expensive. This is a fairly mild detergent. SLES reacts with other ingredients and forms dioxins in addition to nitrates. They corrode the hair follicle and slow down hair growth. It quickly enters the body and settles before our eyes, in the brain, and in the liver. It is excreted very slowly from the body. May cause blindness and cataracts. Carcinogenic. Irritating to skin and eyes, causing hair loss and dandruff. Causes serious allergic reactions. Very dry skin and scalp.

Used as a wetting agent in the textile industry.

Sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfonic acid - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate -SLS.

It is an inexpensive cleanser made from coconut oil, widely used in cosmetic cleaners, shampoos, bath and shower gels, bath foamers, and the like. It is perhaps the most dangerous ingredient in hair and skin care products.

In industry, SLS is used for cleaning garage floors, engine degreasers, car washes, etc. It is a very corrosive agent (although it does remove grease from the surface).

Sodium lauryl sulfate is used in clinics around the world as a skin irritation tester in the following way: researchers use this drug to irritate the skin in animals and humans, and then treat them with different drugs.

Recent research at the Georgia State University College of Medicine has shown that SLS penetrates the eyes, brain, heart, liver, etc. and lingers there. This is especially dangerous for children, in whose tissues it accumulates in high concentrations. These studies also show that SLS alters the protein composition of children's eyes and delays the normal development of these children, causing cataracts.

Sodium lauryl sulfate cleanses by oxidation, leaving an irritating film on the body skin and hair. May promote hair loss and dandruff by acting on the hair follicles. Hair dries up, becomes brittle and splits at the ends.

Another problem. Sodium lauryl sulfate reacts with many ingredients in cosmetics to form nitrosamines (nitrates). These nitrates enter the bloodstream in large quantities when using shampoos and gels, taking baths and using cleaners. If you wash your hair once with a shampoo that contains SLS, it means saturating your body with a huge amount of nitrates, which are quickly carried by the blood throughout the body. It's like eating a kilogram of ham stuffed with the same nitrates. Carcinogenic. Molecular weight SLS - 40 (substances with a molecular weight of 75 and less quickly penetrate into the blood).

Many firms often disguise their SLS products as natural, stating "sourced from coconuts."

Liposomes (not to be confused with phytoliposomes) - Liposomes (Nanosphenes or Micellization).

Considered a radical anti-aging agent. According to one of the latest theories, cell aging is accompanied by a thickening of the cell membrane. Liposomes are tiny sacs of fat and thymus hormone extract suspended in a gel. It is assumed that they, by merging with the cells, revitalize them and add moisture. However, recent scientific studies do not support these assumptions. The cell membranes of old and young cells are identical.
Thus, liposome humidifiers are another expensive gimmick.

Lauramide Day - Lauramide DEA.

Lauric Acid is usually obtained from coconut or laurel oil and is used to foam and thicken various cosmetic preparations. It is included in the basis for the production of soap, because it creates a good lather. It is also used in dishwashing detergents due to its ability to remove grease.
In a cosmetic formula, it reacts with other ingredients to produce nitrosamines, a known carcinogen. Dries hair, skin and scalp. Itching and allergic reactions.

Methylchloroisothiazolinone, commercial name Kathon CG, abbreviations: CMIT, CMI, MCI - preservative - Methyl Chloroisothiazolinine.

Carcinogenic, toxic and mutagenic.

Sodium Oleth Sulfate.

Sodium pyrrolidone carbonate - Sodium PCA (NAPCA).

Synthetically obtained, it can severely dry out the skin and cause allergies.

Phosphoric acid, phosphoric acid - Phosphoric acid.

Inorganic product. In high concentrations, it is very toxic to the skin.

Para-aminobenzoic acid, bacterial vitamin H1, vitamin B10 - Paba (p-aminobenzoic acid).

A water-soluble vitamin from the B complex. It is widely used in sunscreen components. May be phototoxic and cause contact dermatitis and eczema.

Parabens - Parabens.

Trade name: butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben. Used in cosmetics as preservatives. They cause dermatitis and allergies. May cause breast cancer.

Para-Phenylenediamine Dyes..

Hair dyes: dark or brown colors. Carcinogenic when oxidized. Cause of various types of cancer - non-Hodgkin's lymphoma and multiple myeloma. Jacqueline Kennedy dyed her hair black every two weeks. She died of non-Hodgkin's lymphoma.

Petrolatum - Petrolatum.

Fat, a petrochemical product - petrolatum - has the same harmful properties as industrial oil. By retaining fluid, it prevents the release of toxins and wastes and interferes with oxygen penetration.

Polysorbates, oxyethylated sorbitans, nonionic surfactants - Polysorbate-n (20-85).

Used as an emulsifier. Causes skin irritation and contact dermatitis. Toxic.

Polyelectrolyte - Polyquaternium.

It is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance.

Polyethylene glycol, PEG, macrogol, polyethylene oxide, PEO - PEG (4-200).

Abbreviation for polyethylene glycol, polyoxethylene, polygocol, polyether glycol. Cause allergic skin reactions and eczema. Contains dangerous levels of the highly toxic substance dioxane.

Propylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol - Propylene Glycol.

Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) - Butylene Glycol (BG) - Thylene Glycol (EG). Most used as a vehicle (after water) in a cosmetic formula. Propylene glycol is a petroleum derivative, sweet caustic liquid.

In skin care cosmetics and shampoos, it is claimed to be capable of retaining moisture in the skin. Actually draws moisture out of the skin. Degreases and dries out the skin. Irritating to eyes. It is cheaper than glycerin but causes more allergic reactions). It is believed to give the skin a youthful appearance. Its proponents are conducting research to prove that propylene glycol is a safe and effective ingredient. However, scientists believe it is harmful to the skin for the following reasons:

1. In industry, it is used as antifreeze in water cooling systems and as a brake fluid. It gives the skin a smooth and greasy feeling, but it does so by displacing components important to skin health.

2. While binding the liquid, propylene glycol displaces water at the same time. The skin cannot use it, it functions with water, not antifreeze.

3. The safety study data (MSDS) of propylene glycol indicates that contact with the skin can cause liver damage and kidney damage. In cosmetics, a typical composition includes 10-20% propylene glycol (note that propylene glycol is usually one of the first in the list of ingredients of preparations, which indicates its high concentration).

4. In January 1991, a clinical review was published by the American Academy of Dermatology regarding the association of dermatitis with propylene glycol. The report proved that propylene glycol causes a large number of reactions and is one of the main skin irritants even at low concentrations.

Studies show that this substance is mutagenic. It quickly penetrates the skin, destroys cellular proteins and is deposited in the body.

Stearomide propyl, EDTA tetrasodium salt - Stearamidopropyl Tetrasodium EDTA.

Forms nitrosamines in cosmetics. Nitrosamines are known carcinogens.

Styrene C8H8, phenylethylene, vinylbenzene - Styrene Monomer.

Carcinogenic, toxic, mutagenic. Irritating to skin and mucous membranes.

Talc - Talc

Obtained from magnesia silicate. It is believed that talcum powder is dangerous and toxic and should not be used in children as it can cause lung cancer. According to other sources, this applies only to talc mixtures containing lead.

Technical oil, Petroleum (mineral) oils - Mineral Oil (heavy and light).
This ingredient is derived from oil. It is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. Used in industry for lubrication and as a dissolving liquid. When used in cosmetics as a moisturizer, the technical oil forms a water-repellent film and traps moisture in the skin. It is believed that by trapping moisture in the skin, you can make it softer, smoother and more youthful looking. The truth is that a film of technical oil retains not only water, but also toxins, carbon dioxide, waste and products of life, it prevents the penetration of oxygen. The skin is a living, breathing organ that needs oxygen. And when toxins accumulate in the skin and oxygen does not penetrate, the skin becomes unhealthy.

Studies have shown that the saturation of the skin with liquid trapped by the oil film slows down the growth and development of cells. The new skin cell migrates to the surface, where it is exfoliated and washed off. This process takes 20 days in young people and up to 70 days in older people. During this migration from the lower layers of the skin to the surface, the cell changes both structurally and in composition. These changes are necessary for the skin to remain healthy and act as a barrier and protector for the body.

When the skin is glued and the ducts overflow with a large amount of excess fluid saturated with toxins and waste, the vital functions of the skin are disrupted. The cells stop developing normally and their growth slows down. Immature cells rise to the surface and cannot perform a barrier function. Such skin cracks and dries easily, becomes irritable and sensitive. Due to the slowdown in growth, the skin becomes weaker and thinner. Natural mechanisms of recovery and self-defense are weakened and harmful elements of the environment attack the skin faster and easier. In short, the skin shrinks quickly, becomes thinner and more sensitive, easily irritated. The youthful appearance of the skin and the glow fade as it loses its health. In fact, liquid is the only remedy for improving dry skin, but the wrong methods of moisturizing are very harmful and cause premature aging, not rejuvenation. Dr. T.G. Randolf, an allergist, discovered that this ingredient causes petrochemical allergies. Allergic reactions can be very serious, leading to arthritis, migraines, hyperkinesis, epilepsy, and diabetes. When taken orally, technical oil binds fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and, preventing their absorption, removes them from the body. And, although only a very small amount can penetrate the skin, this trend is so dangerous that Adelle Davis, in her "Let's eat right to stay healthy," says that she personally “is wary of using technical oil even in baby oils, cold creams and other cosmetic preparations "

Technical oil tends to dissolve natural sebum and increase dehydration. It is recognized as the most common cause of acne and various rashes in women using technical oil cosmetics. It was found that in the production of technical oils, carcinogens are present in them, and in a strong concentration.

Tyrosine (alpha-amino-beta- (p-hydroxyphenyl) propionic acid) - Tyrosine.

Some tanning lotions contain tyrosine. Be sure that this will definitely be reflected in the advertising of a cosmetic product - an amino acid that enhances melanization (tanning) of the skin. But melanization is an internal process and smearing the lotion on the skin cannot affect it. Likewise, you can rub yourself with food to satisfy your hunger.

Manufacturers' claims of the effectiveness of tanning enhancers remain unconfirmed. Recent independent research has not supported these claims. It is doubtful that tyrosine can penetrate the skin to such a depth as to affect the melanization process.

Triclosan - Triclosan.

The latest advancement in antibacterial chemistry. It is used in household cleaners and detergents, as well as in cosmetics.
Triclosan is a chlorophenol, a class of known carcinogenic chemicals. Irritating to skin. It is very toxic to the whole organism.
It has a negative effect on the liver, kidneys, lungs, brain, can cause paralysis, and reduces sexual functions.

Triethylamine - Triethanolamine (Trolamine, TEA).

Causes serious dermatitis on the skin of the face, makes it sensitive and allergic. Usually in cosmetics it regulates the pH balance. May contain nitrosamines which are highly carcinogenic.

Toluene, methylbenzene - Toluene (toluol).

Obtained from petroleum products. Reminiscent of benzen. Toxic. May cause anemia. Damages the liver. Irritating to skin and mucous membranes.

Humidifiers - Humectants.

Most moisturizers contain humectants. They are believed to attract moisture from the air. In fact, they draw moisture from the skin. Humectants including propylene glycol and glycerin act as humectants in humid environments. If you are in dry places, such as in the cockpit of an airplane or in a well-heated room, in contrast, they draw moisture from the skin.

FDS - FDC-n (FD&C).

Available in various colors. Some are skin irritants, others are strong carcinogens. It is believed that there are still no levels of acceptable safe use for these products for each color category.

Phenoxyethanol - Phenoxyethanol..

Causes serious allergic reactions. Trade names - Arosol, Dowanol EPH, Phenyl Cellosolve, Phenoxethol, Phenoxetol and Phenonip.

Formalin DMDM, aqueous solution: 40% formaldehyde, 8% methyl alcohol and 52% water - Hydantoin DMDM..

May cause dermatitis. As a preservative, it can form formaldehyde, which is a dangerous carcinogen.

Phthalates, phthalic acid salts - Phthalates.

Dibutyl Phthalate - Diethyl Phthalate - Dimethyl Phthalate. Phthalates are widely used in cosmetics and perfumery. Interestingly, environmental laws regulate and control the use of phthalates as they are considered toxic.
In cosmetic products, there are not even warnings about their high toxicity.
They destroy the liver and kidneys, are very dangerous for the fetus, reduce the amount of sperm.

Fluoride, fluorine compound - Fluoride.

Dangerous chemical element. Especially dangerous in toothpaste. Scientists associate this element with the occurrence of dental deformities, arthritis, and allergic manifestations.

Fluorocarbons, perfluorocarbons - Fluorocarbons.

Usually used in hairsprays. Toxic to the respiratory tract.

Formaldehyde, methanal, formic aldehyde, formic acid aldehyde - Formaldehyde.

Used in nail polish, soaps, cosmetics and shampoos. Causes severe mucosal irritation. Trade name: DMDM ​​hydantoin or MDM hydantion.
Very toxic to the skin. Known carcinogen. Two substances from the formaldehyde family are used as preservatives in cosmetics: DMDM ​​(Dimethylol Dimethol Hydantoin) and Imidazolidinyl Urea. Toxic. Cause contact dermatitis.

Sodium cyanide, sodium cyanide, NaCN - sodium salt of hydrocyanic acid - Sodium Cyanide.

It is a poisonous, carcinogenic, mutagenic substance.

Placenta Extracts - Placental Extract - Placenta.

Placenta extract is dangerous in that, if all sanitary requirements were not followed upon receipt, it can cause very serious diseases. Is it worth risking your health ?!

Elastin (not to be confused with Cross-Linked Elastin) - Elastin.

Another ingredient touted as beneficial for skin and hair care. This substance is the structure that holds the skin cells in place. It is believed that as we age, elastin molecules break down and thus wrinkles form. In order to restore the skin, many cosmetic companies introduce elastin into their preparations.

Like collagen, elastin is obtained from cattle, and it also forms a suffocating film on the skin due to its high molecular weight. Elastin cannot penetrate the skin and, even when injected, does not perform its function due to the inappropriate molecular structure, because human elastin differs in structure from animal elastin.

Only one kind of cross-linked elastin is capable of penetrating and compatible with human skin. This form of elastin is called desmosin or isodesmosin.

Ethylene glycol, glycol, 1,2-dioxyethane, ethanediol-1,2 - Glycols.

Used as humectants (substances designed to retain moisture in the skin). They can be of both animal and plant origin. They are also produced synthetically. Diethylene glycol and carbitol are toxic. Ethylene glycol causes bladder cancer. All glycols are toxic, carcinogenic and mutagenic.

Natural cosmetic

Natural cosmetics can be safely called, for example, the cream or mask that you made yourself from the natural products, plants, herbs you have.

As for the purchased industrial "natural cosmetics", it will only be more or less natural, which, in principle, is already quite good. But sometimes they can just lie.

There is no legal definition of the word "natural" that you see everywhere. The chemical definition of organic means that the compound simply contains carbon.

In cosmetics, the word "natural" can mean whatever the manufacturer wants. There are no legal obligations associated with this term. Often, "natural cosmetics" is just a publicity stunt.

There are no clear criteria for what a “natural” product can and cannot contain. Cosmetic preparations called "natural" can contain preservatives, dyes, and any other ingredients that cannot be called natural in any way.

Thus, the products of the cosmetic industry the majority firms does not give the consumer what he expects. The benefits of such cosmetics, rather, psychological than the real one.

If packaging is in English, see

USED ​​MATERIALS:

1. Begoin, Paula Blue Eyeshadow Should Still Be Legal, Beginning Press, 1988.
2. Brumberg, Elaine Take Care of Your Skin, Harper & Row Publishers, Inc. , 1989.
3. Chase, Deborah The New Medically-Based No-Nonsense Beauty Book, Henry Holt & Co., 1989.
4. Friend, Tim “USA Today,” 4-10-90.
5. Green, Dr. Kaith Detergent Penetration Into Young and Adult Eyes Department of Opthamology, Medical College of GA, Augusta, GA.
6. Hampton, Aubrey Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients Organica Press.
7. Metarasso, Dr. Seth L. "Faking It" - Muscle & Fitness, November, 1990.
8. Valmy, Christine & Vons Ulrich, Elise "Mid-Air Skin Care" - Entepreneurial Woman, July / August 1990.
9. Winter, Ruth A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, Crown Publishers, Inc., 1989.
10. Wright, Camille S. Shampoo Report, Images International, Inc., 1989.
11. Phyto-Cosmetics (www.skindoсtor.ru).

Decorative cosmetics and body care products should make us prettier and healthier. Consumers often fall for the trick of advertisers and purchase such a product without studying its composition at all. Meanwhile, doctors and scientists assure that the composition of cosmetics contains substances that can have an extremely negative effect on health. There is also a downside to the coin: in pursuit of fashionable "ECO" and organic products, we begin to believe in rumors about the dangers of those components that have been used for decades in the production of cosmetics and in fact are not at all dangerous to human health.

Let's try to figure out which substances in cosmetics can actually be harmful to us, and which cannot.

The main components of cosmetics

There are a number of ingredients that are required in every cosmetic product. These include:

• natural fats - cocoa butter, fish oil, lanolin and others;
• synthetic (or semi-synthetic) fats - for example, castor oil, chitosan, gelatin and others.

The task of these components is to maintain the level of moisture in the skin and its fat balance, nutrition. They are perfectly preserved on the surface of the skin and, in theory, should cope with the tasks set. But if the cosmetics were chosen incorrectly, then these same components have a negative effect - they stop / slow down the respiratory processes in the skin, disrupt the state of its water balance and the processes of removing harmful substances from the cells.

Another main component is emulsifiers , which provide a uniform consistency of the cosmetic. If their quantity is overestimated, then the use of such cosmetics leads to drying of the skin, a feeling of tightness appears, the surface begins to peel off - all this brings quite uncomfortable sensations.

The basis of any cosmetic product is and biologically active substances ... They are designed to enhance the action of the product, or they themselves have a beneficial effect on the skin. But the problem is that it is biologically active substances that can cause a powerful allergic reaction, therefore, when choosing a cosmetic product, be sure to look at contraindications for use and study specific biologically active substances.

To give a cosmetic product a pleasant aroma, manufacturers must use perfume ... They only fulfill a role flavoring , but often it is on them that outbreaks of an allergic reaction occur in severe form. Here you need to take care of yourself on your own - study the composition of the cosmetic product and exclude yourself from allergies to certain aromas.

Usage preservatives in cosmetics it is also necessary - they allow you to extend the term of their use. Conscientious manufacturers use quality preservatives that have passed certification, but there are also those who prefer the lower quality of this component - money in this case is everything for them. And such low-quality preservatives can damage skin cells! What are the preservatives in cosmetics:

• antioxidants - they slow down the aging process of fats in cosmetics;
• bactericidal components - they destroy those pathogenic microorganisms that can get into cosmetics from the outside;
• prooxidant inactivators - they slow down the aging process of almost all ingredients.

Ingredients in cosmetics that can cause allergies

Allergenic ingredients in cosmetics can be both natural and synthetic ingredients. Therefore, doctors strongly recommend that you study the composition of cosmetics, and not buy widely advertised ones.

Vaseline (Petrolatum) and liquid petrolatum (Paraffinum liquidum)

In general, these products are made on the basis of petroleum products, white and yellow petrolatum are distinguished among them. White petroleum jelly always goes through many stages of cleaning, it is absolutely harmless to health. But yellow petroleum jelly has a much worse quality and can cause an allergic reaction - it is usually added to the cheapest cosmetics.

Talc

This component is actively used not only in the manufacture of cosmetics, but also in pediatrics. But if talc is used too often, then it can provoke dry skin, allergic reactions and even provoke the development of cancerous tumors - these data were published by American researchers. For example, scientists have found that regular application of talcum powder to the female genital area increases the risk of developing uterine cancer http: // site / rak-shejki-matki /.

Antibacterial substance Methylchoroisothiazolinone

Even if the concentration of this substance in a cosmetic product is insignificant, it can irritate the skin - redness, itching, peeling and small rashes will be permanent when using such cosmetics. The maximum recommended concentration of this substance in rinsed cosmetics is 0.1% by weight of the product, and in products left on the skin for a long time - 0.05%. In the EU countries and the USA, the permissible concentration even in rinsed products is even lower - 0.0015%.

Interesting! In Japan, this preservative is only allowed as a component of rinse off cosmetics.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

Such components include, for example, lactic acid. Alpha hydroxide acids are used for additional cleansing of the skin surface from dead cells and dead epidermis. But in addition to such a positive effect, these same substances are capable of disrupting the protective barrier of the skin, and this already leads to the development of other skin diseases.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has warned consumers that alpha hydroxy acids can increase photosensitivity to the sun.

Cosmetics containing alpha hydroxy acids should be recommended for use by specialists, and used only in strict accordance with the instructions for use.

Borax

This component in a number of countries is used not only in cosmetics, but even in food and medicine. However, scientific research has proven that borax can have a negative effect on the functioning of the body as a whole and is generally a toxic product.

On December 16, 2010, sodium tetraborate (borax) was added as a "High Hazard Substance (SVHC)" to the Critical Substance Candidate List. This list is part of the EU regulations on registration, evaluation and restriction of chemicals, and the addition is based on the revised classification of borax as toxic for reproductive category 1B according to the CLP Rules. Once added to this list, all substances and mixtures imported into the EU containing borax must be labeled with the warnings “May damage fertility” and “May damage the unborn child”.

Lanolin (Lanoline)

Let's make a reservation right away - this high-quality component used in the manufacture of cosmetics is absolutely harmless to humans. But here's the problem - when using low-quality lanolin that has been contaminated with pesticides, a powerful allergic reaction can develop, and rashes will appear on the body.

DMDM Hydantoin

This substance serves as a preservative in cosmetics, it provides a means that has antimicrobial effect and prolongs the use and shelf life of cosmetics. The problem is that the same substance can cause allergic reactions, has an irritating effect not only on the skin, but also on the human respiratory tract, and negatively affects the state of the mucous membranes.

Components in cosmetics with toxic effects

Some cosmetics also include toxic substances that can have a destructive effect on the entire body as a whole. Experts recommend that you completely abandon the use of such cosmetics, or consult a cosmetologist about the correct use.

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT)

This drug has a powerful antibacterial effect and is used in the manufacture of liquid cosmetics - lotions, gels, shampoos, foams and more. But, according to certain scientists, it is this component that is capable of destroying nerve cells, including the brain. For the sake of fairness, it should be noted that the results of these studies have been repeatedly challenged, nevertheless, the discussion is still relevant.

By the way, consumers often confuse the presented drug with Methylchoroisothiazolinone, but their actions are different - the latter only dries the skin and mucous membranes and has absolutely no effect on nerve cells.

Triclosan

This tool belongs to the antibacterial group, it can be used in the manufacture of soap or in toothpastes as an antiseptic. But the fact is that Triclosan is capable of causing inflammation of the skin, has a toxic effect on hormonal balance and reproductive functions in general. Experts recommend using cosmetics with this component strictly according to the doctor's prescription.

Triethanolamine

It is used in order to achieve the desired pH level in cosmetics - everything seems to be within the acceptable range. But if you use cosmetics with such a component for a long time (this is mascara, sunscreen and nourishing creams), then the body's immune system will suffer, and a negative effect will be exerted on the skin and on the respiratory tract. There is evidence that this substance is associated with cancer risks.

Important: as is the case withDEA, the carcinogen is not MEA itself, but nitrosamine - a substance that is formed as a result of a chemical reaction of MEA with other chemically active substances.

Butylated Hydroxytoluene (or BHT)

This substance is strictly prohibited in some countries - for example, in Japan, Australia, USA, Sweden. Some manufacturers use this component as a preservative - it binds with oxygen and prevents the rapid oxidation of fats that make up cosmetics. The controversy surrounding the carcinogenic effect of BHT is still ongoing.

Instead of a conclusion

All publications on the Web and loud statements from TV screens should be treated sensibly. Check the information before making any decisions. Products marked "ECO", "Organic", etc. are more expensive than the means we are used to, however, their safety and effectiveness, as a rule, have not been confirmed by anything, as well as the harm of some components, which for some reason are considered dangerous.

In some sources, even salicylic acid is indicated as a carcinogen. But no studies on this matter have been published over the past few years, which means that such an opinion is hardly worth trusting. Of course, salicylic acid can have a negative effect on the skin - it dries it greatly, which provokes the appearance of early wrinkles and areas of irritation, but this is not a reason to talk about its carcinogenic effect.

Unfortunately, within the framework of one article, it is impossible to cover absolutely all the harmful components that can be included in the composition of cosmetics. Therefore, we recommend that you visit a beautician and consult with him about the use of a particular cosmetic product. Moreover, this advice applies not only to synthetic products, but also to those made on natural ingredients - too often they even cause allergic reactions. When it comes to choosing products for children, especially the first year of life, you need to listen to the advice of a pediatrician.

Posting ads is free and registration is not required. But there is pre-moderation of ads.

The mechanism of penetration of cosmetics into the skin

Moreover, cosmetics contain many additional ingredients: emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, stabilizers and preservatives. Each of them performs its own function, which affects the overall action of the product. At the same time, it is extremely important to determine the properties of all components and active elements in order to exclude their incompatibility.

How often we hear that this or that cosmetic product is rich in active ingredients that perfectly penetrate the skin. But we do not even think that the main task of such ingredients is not just to pass through the epidermis, but to affect its specific layer. This also applies to the surface of the skin, the so-called stratum corneum, into which, nevertheless, not all substances need to penetrate. Therefore, in order to determine the effectiveness of a drug, it is necessary to take into account its full composition, and not individual elements.

The essence of the active components is that they must get into a specific place, even if it is the surface of the stratum corneum. Therefore, it is necessary to pay tribute to the means that deliver them there, in other words, the carriers, which include liposomes. For example, encapsulated retinol, penetrating into the skin, is less irritating than its free analogue. Moreover, cosmetics contain many additional ingredients: emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, stabilizers and preservatives. Each of them performs its own function, which affects the overall action of the product. At the same time, it is extremely important to determine the properties of all components and active elements in order to exclude their incompatibility.

There is no doubt that the constituents of cosmetic products penetrate the skin. The problem is how to determine how much they can or should deepen in order to have an effect on a certain area of ​​the skin, and / or whether they remain cosmetic, and not drugs. An equally important question is how to maintain the integrity of the active ingredients before they reach their destination. Chemists-cosmetologists have repeatedly faced the question: what percentage of such substances achieves its goal?

The use of tyrosine (melanin) inhibitors against hyperpigmentation is a prime example of how important the concept of permeation is in determining the effectiveness of a product. In particular, the active ingredient must overcome the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum, the cellular structure of the epidermis, penetrate into melanocytes and only then into melanosomes. At the same time, the substance must retain its chemical qualities and integrity in order to cause the desired reaction, which will lead to the suppression of the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. And even this is not a very difficult task. Take sunscreens, for example, which, on the other hand, need to stay on the surface of the skin to perform their function.

It follows from this that the effectiveness of a cosmetic product is the action not only of its active components, but also of all other substances that make up its composition. At the same time, each of the ingredients should help ensure that the active substances reach their destination without losing their effectiveness.

To determine the degree of effectiveness of a product, you should answer the following questions:

How do products penetrate?
- how important is penetration for a cosmetic product?
- is the penetration of the active ingredients of a cosmetic important for the treatment of specific skin types or conditions?

To give a full-fledged answer to them, one should take into account why, how and which parameters affect the penetration of cosmetic preparations.

What is product penetration?

Product penetration refers to the movement of substances or chemicals through the skin. The stratum corneum forms a barrier, due to which the skin is considered to be a semi-permeable membrane. This suggests that microorganisms cannot penetrate through the intact epidermis, unlike various chemicals. The skin selectively provides a molecular pathway. Despite this, significant amounts of chemicals when applied topically in the form of cosmetics or lotions are absorbed by the skin (up to 60%). Most of the agents that penetrate the skin must overcome the intercellular lipid matrix, because lipids form an almost continuous barrier in the stratum corneum. Its features depend on age, anatomy and even the season. With dry skin or in the course of some diseases, the stratum corneum becomes so thin that the active ingredients penetrate much easier and faster.

For many buyers, the effectiveness of a product is determined by the penetration capabilities of its ingredients. In fact, it directly depends on a number of factors, including the quantity and quality of active ingredients in cosmetics, carrier substances that deliver active ingredients to their goal, the volume of the latter required for their optimal functioning and achieving the desired result. An active ingredient is considered effective when it reaches the desired site in a suitable concentration, while its effect on other areas is minimal.

For cosmetics, it is equally important that their ingredients do not penetrate into the dermis, and from there into the bloodstream through the capillary system. The penetration of the product through the skin into the circulatory system transfers it from the category of cosmetics to medicine.

There are two types of delivery of ingredients - cutaneous and transepidermal. In the first case, the substance acts in the stratum corneum, living epidermis or dermis. In the second - outside the dermis, often affecting the circulatory system. As a rule, cosmetic products are limited to skin delivery, while transepidermal ones are characteristic of medications. Thus, cosmetics must penetrate the skin, not through it. Therefore, one of the key points in the development of such drugs is to prevent the transepidermal penetration of the components and their active action in a certain layer of the skin.

At the moment, scientists are working on two main tasks. The first is that the active ingredient is guaranteed to reach the desired location without losing its properties. The second provides for the creation of a mechanism by which the same component will lose its influence if and when it leaves the zone of its action.

At the same time, cosmetic chemists are often faced with the following issues:

- how much substance remains on the skin?
- how much of it arrives at a given place?
- how much of the agent can pass through the skin and reach the circulatory system?
- what is the optimal ratio of the features of a cosmetic product?

Do not forget that determining the effectiveness of a product based on its penetration capabilities may be wrong. For example, skin lightening products must penetrate the epidermis, reaching the basal layer, in order to inhibit the tyrosinase enzyme required for melanin production. At the same time, such preparations can remain only on the surface of the stratum corneum, and the brightening effect is achieved through the accumulation of pigment. In both cases, cosmetics are effective, but their penetration capabilities differ.

Take UV absorbers, for example. They must remain on the surface of the skin to protect it. Once these substances penetrate the skin, they become less effective. At the same time, antioxidants and other chemical compounds with anti-aging properties need to get into the epidermis or even the dermis. Thus, the result of their action directly depends on whether they hit the target or not.

Moisturizers also work differently. Those with occlusive qualities remain on the surface of the skin. Others need to penetrate into its surface layers in order to retain moisture there. It follows from this that the need for the penetration of cosmetics and its productivity are determined by the functions of its ingredients.

Principles of substance penetration

There are two main channels of entry - extracellular and intercellular. With topical application of cosmetics, the skin acts as an absorbing organ, in which many target points of action are highlighted. Among them: sebaceous pores, ducts of sweat glands, stratum corneum, living epidermis, dermoepidermal junction.

The penetration rate of active ingredients depends on the size of the molecules, the carrier, and the general condition of the skin. The barrier function of the epidermis largely depends on whether the stratum corneum is damaged or not. Its removal or modification as a result of peeling, exfoliation, application of alpha hydroxy acids or a preparation containing retinol (vitamin A), dry skin, dermatological diseases (eczema or psoriasis) contribute to greater penetration of the cosmetic product.

In addition, the passage of the stratum corneum is influenced by the size of their molecules and the tendency to metabolic interaction with skin biochemistry, cell receptors. If the penetration rate is low, then the concentration of the product will increase. This is facilitated by the fact that the stratum corneum acts as a reservoir. Thus, the tissues located under it will be under the influence of the active substance for a certain time. Thanks to this, the stratum corneum is both a natural barrier of the skin and a kind of reservoir that allows prolonging the effect of a cosmetic product after it is applied to the skin. However, it should be borne in mind that various kinds of diseases can change the rate of local absorption. For example, diabetes mellitus changes the structure of the skin, affects its properties. Moreover, the skin in different parts of the body allows chemicals to pass through in different ways. In particular, the face and scalp absorb drugs 5 or even 10 times better.

Penetration methods of active components

The stratum corneum, with its tightly interconnected cells, is a serious obstacle to product penetration. Another barrier is the basement membrane or dermoepidermal junction. It is not surprising that the question arises, if one of the main functions of the skin is to protect the body from the introduction of foreign substances, then how can the ingredients of cosmetics manage to overcome this obstacle. The answer is simple - the skin absorbs them with the help of sebaceous pores, the duct of the sweat glands, and the intercellular channels. In addition, most topical cosmetics do not penetrate the epidermis due to one or more of the reasons below:

Molecular size (too large);
retention or binding of the substance on the surface of the skin by means of other ingredients that make up the product;
evaporation (if the substance is volatile);
adhesion (adhesion) to the cells of the stratum corneum, which disappears in the process of peeling or detachment.

How do the components of cosmetics penetrate:

Through epidermal cells or cell cement;
through the formation of a reservoir, when the substance accumulates in the stratum corneum (or subcutaneous fatty tissue), and then is slowly released and absorbed into the tissues;
in the process of natural metabolism in the skin;
pass into the dermis and remain there;
pass into the dermis, are absorbed into the capillary circulatory system (this resembles the action of drugs, vivid examples are the introduction of nicotine and estrogen).

Of course, it is important to understand why and how active substances penetrate, but one should also take into account the conditions that can influence these processes.

Factors affecting product penetration

The main condition affecting the rate and quality of absorption of the substance by the skin is the healthy state of the stratum corneum. In second place is the moisturizing of the skin. It is not surprising that the most common method of improving the penetration of cosmetics is occlusion (trapping of fluid in the stratum corneum), which prevents moisture from evaporating from the skin's surface, which only contributes to its hydration. Face masks work according to this principle. An environment with 80% relative humidity also results in significant epidermal hydration. It should be noted that the skin absorbs water well, but it cannot always keep it in the right amount. As a result of excessive moisture, the stratum corneum becomes softer (as, for example, with prolonged baths), its barrier function weakens, which leads to dehydration and increases the loss of moisture.

One of the main methods of penetration of chemicals into the stratum corneum is through the lipid-containing intercellular spaces. Therefore, the lipid composition of this layer of the skin also affects the penetration of active ingredients. Given the miscibility of oil with oil, chemicals with oil-based carriers will penetrate better than their aqueous counterparts. However, lipophilic (oil-based) chemicals are more difficult to penetrate continuously due to the fact that the lower layers of the epidermis have a higher water content than the stratum corneum and are therefore considered lipophobic. As you know, oil and water practically do not mix. Consequently, carriers with which the ingredients of the product are fused for more convenient application and concentration control also play an important role in determining the rate of penetration.

In some cases, chemical absorption is not limited by the barrier function of the skin, but by the properties of the wearer itself. For example, products in which the active substances must remain on the surface of the epidermis (sunscreens and moisturizers) are more effective if they are oil-based. On the other hand, the passage of the intercellular space containing lipids with hydrophilic (water-based) active substances requires either a number of cosmetic manipulations aimed at moisturizing the stratum corneum, or using liposomes as carriers.

The main difficulties associated with the penetration of active substances are how fast the ingredients move and the depth they reach. Several methods have been developed to control these parameters. They involve the use of special carriers (liposomes), natural encapsulating materials, and other systems. In any case, whatever technique the manufacturer chooses, his main task is to ensure the penetration of active substances to the required area with the maximum possible effect and without side reactions in the form of irritation or skin absorption.

Product testing

There are various test methods to determine the effect of an active ingredient in the skin and its location after topical application. Such tests are carried out both in laboratory and in natural conditions, often using complex computer programs. For laboratory tests, the skin is cultured in glass tubes where the cells multiply about 20 or more times. Often, skin samples are used from patients who have undergone plastic or any other surgery, during which a piece of the epidermis was removed. Such tests have great advantages in terms of time, cost and ethical considerations - especially if they can be toxic.

In natural conditions, cosmetics are tested on animals and humans. The test results are distinguished by more specific data that correspond to reality as much as possible, which is especially valuable in the case when the systemic effect of the product is in doubt, in other words, how the drug can affect the body as a whole. The techniques used depend on what the scientists are trying to prove. For example, to establish the level of moisturizing and repairing properties of a product for dry skin, experts are recruiting volunteers who will be required to use conventional soap-containing products on the skin for several days without additional moisture. After this, the dryness of the epidermis is tested. The researchers then give moisturizing products to one group of subjects and a placebo to another. At regular intervals, the level of skin hydration among all groups is checked in order to determine the rate of its saturation with moisture.

In the course of testing sunscreens, the main task of the tests is to preserve active substances on the surface of the stratum corneum, ensuring their maximum efficiency and preventing side toxic effects. In this case, adhesive tape scraping, blood and urine tests are used. As a result of such tests, some substances were found in blood plasma and urine. The exception was mineral-based sunscreens.

When testing products that are supposed to remain on the surface of the skin or in the stratum corneum, scientists first apply the drug and then take skin samples using adhesive tape or a scarification test. The rate of product penetration and cellular changes at different levels of penetration is then studied using computer models. The same principle is used to study the systemic effect of products. Computer programs make it possible not only to understand how deeply the agent penetrates, but also what changes in the cellular structure it can cause. Particular attention is paid to the consequences of product penetration into the skin, blood, urine and other biological fluids are examined. Some substances can be present in the body in such low concentrations that they can only be detected with very sensitive equipment.

Taking into account the functions of the skin, products (in particular, the specific components that make up their composition), under appropriate conditions, penetrate through absorption, absorption. But the penetration of a product does not always determine its effectiveness. In some cases, it can be undesirable or even harmful.

Advances in cosmetic chemistry have made it possible to better understand

Comedogenic cosmetics, comedogenic components in cosmetics - you've probably heard these terms. And if you suffer from acne, then you simply have to know everything about such remedies!

Comedogenic cosmetics: what's what?

Comedogenic cosmetics are agents that provoke the formation of comedones. Comedogenic components in cosmetics are a broad class of ingredients or products that tend to block pores and contribute to the formation of comedones or trigger acne symptoms.

Comedones, hard "plugs" that form from excess sebum in the pores, block the pores in the skin and create prerequisites for the development of acne. Therefore, it is believed that eliminating comedogenic components from care products is the first line of acne prevention.

For whom are comedogenic components in cosmetics dangerous?

How, in essence, does acne develop? If a person's skin is genetically “programmed” for excessive synthesis of sebum, the pores of the skin quickly become clogged with improper care, and so-called whiteheads appear on its surface. With insufficient cleansing, they turn black - after all, a lot of pollutants accumulate on the skin from the air. In such unhygienic conditions, the bacteria that provoke acne unhindered multiply - and as a result, crimson inflamed pimples appear on the face. But if we exclude only one link from this pathological chain - comedogenic cosmetics - the likelihood of keeping a clean face will increase by an order of magnitude!

However, even if you do not suffer from acne and are not predisposed to this disease, comedones that dot your nose or the entire T-zone - white or “dirty” blacks - in any case will not decorate your appearance in any way. Avoiding comedogenic ingredients is recommended even for people who do not suffer from acne, especially those with oily or combination skin types, in which the pores also tend to be blocked by a mixture of sebum and environmental pollution. If you ignore these recommendations, the case of oily or mixed skin type can easily turn into an annoying problem called "acne".

Important to remember

It is difficult for medical experts to classify the ingredients that cause comedones. The fact is that a substance that can clog the pores of the skin and lead to the formation of acne in one person may not affect the skin of another at all. However, some ingredients have been identified that have shown higher and overall comedogenicity than others. If you suffer from oily or acne-prone skin, make sure you don't come across these substances when shopping for skin care products.

List of comedogenic components in cosmetics

The list below lists the components, which are divided into three groups according to the degree of comedogenicity - from high to low. That is, in the first group, the most comedogenic cosmetic components are indicated, in the third - the least. We also include their international names for convenience.

• Butyl stearate (Buytl stearate)
• Wheat germ glyceride
• Glyceryl stearate SE
• Decyl oleate
• Isopropyl Compounds (Isopropyl isostearate, Isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, Isostearyl neopentanoate)
• Coconut butter, Cocoa butter
• Lanolin (Lanolin, Acetylated lanolin, Acetylated lanolin alcohol)
• Laureth-4
• Laureth-23
• Lauric acid
• Mink oil
• Shark liver oil
• Myristyl compounds (Myristyl myristate, Myristic acid, Myristyl lactate)
• Olet-3 (Oleth-3)
• Soybean oil
• Stearyl heptanoate
• Stearic acid
• Cetearyl alcohol + ceteareth 20
• D&C red # 30

However, if any of these ingredients are listed on the package far below, this means that the manufacturer has included it in the product in a very small amount, so that the product may be quite safe in this regard.

Non-comedogenic cosmetics

While non-comedogenic beauty products will not help prevent the formation of acne caused by propionic bacteria, such products are important because they do not clog pores - which is good for acne. Look for foods that are described as lean and light. The consistency of the product should be light, not viscous. Once applied, the product should be absorbed quickly into the skin and not appear to be frozen on the surface. Choose foods that have water binding and soothing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, aloe vera, etc.