How to connect the threads correctly when knitting. Some useful knitting tricks
Hello.
How to hide these protruding ponytails, and even so that they do not come out after the first wash?
In today's article I will tell you about some tips from needlewomen and share my personal experience on this issue.
How to hide ponytails when knitting
It is most convenient to thread the ends of the threads into the seams. This photo shows the shoulder seam of my sweater. For this example, I used a thread in a contrasting color.
Thread the thread using a crochet hook or a needle with a large eye. The tail of the woolen yarn can already be cut off (it will not go anywhere), and if the threads are smoother, then it is better to โwalkโ in the opposite direction.
The photo below shows the side seam. I usually try to tie a new thread near the hem loop, so the ends of the threads are easy to hide (or even use for sewing) in the side seams.
Well, if the ponytails still turned out in the middle of your knitting, then the easiest way is to use a needle and hide the ends from the seamy side of the product. In this case, you need to pick up the out hinges and stretch the thread (first in one direction, and then in the other).
Below I will show you several ways how to attach the thread during the knitting process.
How to hide ponytails when crocheting.
If your product consists of separate motives, then you need to be patient and carefully tuck the ponytails in every detail. For example, I knitted such a flower. You need to hide 2 tails.
Let's start with the middle. If you knit a ring from VP (air loops), and then tie it with single crochets, then the initial tail must be tied in a circle along with the ring. And the thread can be cut immediately.
And if in the center of the motif there is an amigurumi loop (tightening), then the thread must be additionally secured. I make a loop and pull the tail of the thread through it.
And then, using a needle, I pull the tail through the loops in a circle (in different directions).
As for the tail of the thread at the end of the motif, I either grab it with a crochet (small size) and "lead" through the loops to the nearest base of the petal (where several columns are connected in an arch from the VP).
And now I thread the end of the thread several times through these columns in one and the other direction.
A slight thickening in this place is almost invisible. But if this still bothers you, then you can stretch the tail of the thread in a circle through all these columns (or as long as the thread will last).
If your motifs are crocheted from sliding threads (silk, viscose), then you can glue the ends. Needlewomen recommend MOMENT-gel and MOMENT-Crystal. After hardening, it does not harden or scratch.
And so that we do not have to hide the tails at the end of knitting, we will try to connect the threads so that these tails are not there.
Here are some ways to invisibly join threads:
1 way... Clasp both threads, as shown in the photo and knit with a double thread a few cm before the joint and a few cm after.
2 way... If the thickening when connecting the threads in the 1st way is very noticeable, then you can divide the threads into fibers and break off half of them on each of the threads to be connected.
Then put the ends on top of each other and twist into one thread.
Continue knitting carefully. The junction is invisible.
3 way... Here a knot is tied, but not an ordinary one, but a sea one. It is almost invisible and very reliable. (I am using this method).
We cross the 2 ends of the threads:
Put the pink thread (which is closer to us) on top of the blue one:
and twist again. It turns out like this:
Tighten the knot and cut off the ends.
When checking for strength (I pulled too hard), the thread broke nearby, and the knot remained intact. So your knitting is guaranteed not to bloom ๐.
Another interesting way to connect threads is shown here: http://knitly.com/8126.
Crocheted Christmas toy (master class)
Amigurumi ring or Japanese (sliding) loop
The main purpose of the weaving knot is to quickly tie the threads. This is one of the most important requirements associated with the peculiarities of the weaving industry, as well as when knitting. The knot that ties the thread should be compact. Place the threads freely, without snags, pass through the loom devices.
Modern textile business has about two dozen different original varieties of textile knots. Experienced craftsmen are able to knit these ingenious knots in just a few seconds without stopping the production process. Such skill is necessary in case of unexpected breakage of yarn threads, replacement of used bobbins with new bobbins.
How to tie a weaving knot
A simple textile (weaving) knot can be tied in two ways.
Method 1
| The two threads overlap. The upper end is held under the bobbin thread. Forming a loop. |
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| The bobbin thread is looped under the tip of the bobbin thread. |  |
| The end of the bobbin thread is looped over. |  |
| We tighten and get the "Weaving knot". |  |
It turns out a reliable node, small in size. Such methods are used for wool, linen or cotton yarns.
Method 2
This is how you can tie the short end to the long end:
Weaving knot when knitting
A mini knot works well for knitting. It is also called an "industrial hub". It is a tough, miniature connection equal to the diameter of the knitted yarns. To connect you need:
| Put the first thread straight, the second from above (folded in half), end down. |  |
| The free edge is passed under the bobbin thread, brought out to the top. |  |
| The end of the first thread is threaded into the resulting loop. |  |
| The short edges are tightened, holding the loops. |  |
| Long parts are pulled up. The knot is ready for further knitting. |
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This method is suitable when using knitting needles, crocheting.
Almost all types of knots are suitable for knitting. They work with all types of yarns. The exception is its derivatives (woman's, thieves'). They should not be used when joining silk or nylon threads. In these cases, the knot will creep under load.
Double Weaving Knot
The double weaving knot is more reliable and relevant for smooth yarns, when a simple method does not provide a secure attachment.
It is tied as follows:
| The threads are folded together. |  |
| One of the threads forms a loop through which the second thread is threaded. |  |
| Another stroke follows around the end of the second thread. |  |
| The end of the second thread is passed through the loop in the opposite way. |  |
| The resulting "Double Knot" is tightened. |  |
Textile knots are varied. Their various versions are used wherever it is necessary to tie different parts of ropes, ropes, cables, etc.
Weaving knot when tying a bracelet
Making a simple bracelet using a weaving knot is very simple. For this you will need:
- waxed lace;
- decoration (pendant, bead, other suitable items).
Varieties of Textile Knots
Straight
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Untethered
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Versatile
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Polish
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Dagger
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Flat
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Herbal
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Fishing
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Historical reference
The history of the use of knots has more than a dozen centuries. Ancient people learned to use them by sewing animal skins, tying various ropes.
With the development of the art of creating different types of fabrics, the methods of tying threads and the variety of knots also improved. Manufacturing of weaving products, a long and laborious process of weaving yarn at right angles. The origin of weaving took place in the distant Neolithic era, along with the development of plant growing and the domestication of animals.
The ability to make fine threads gave impetus to spinning, sewing, the invention of weaving devices. The first machines were fairly simple. They were a construction of poles set in the ground with sticks. Their principle of operation is still used in modern, improved textile machines.
The ability to tie, weave a variety of knots, has become the basis of most types of needlework:
- macrame;
- weaving lace;
- making bracelets, jewelry;
- knitting.
Use, in:
- shipbuilding, seafaring;
- industry
- sports, tourism;
- fishing;
- medicine
The difference between textile knots, from some other types, lies only in the way they are knitted. They are knitted using two pieces of rope, thread.
A few more video tutorials:
In this master class, we will tell you in detail and show 2 of the most popular methods. joining threads when knitting knitting or crocheting. And in general, such methods are suitable not only for knitting, but also for any creativity where strings are used.
Video master class on joining threads when knitting:
Connecting threads without knots
A great way to join if you do not want to remove extra strings after knitting, and also if you want to avoid knots. This yarn splicing method is only suitable for well-spun yarns of medium thickness. The junction is strong, the threads will not disperse either during knitting or while wearing the product.
So, we start with the fact that the threads must be crossed
and, as it were, twine them around each other, like hooks clinging to each other.
But we thread one of the ends of the thread into the needle, leaving a very small tip,
and we begin to introduce the needle into the same thread towards the ball or product, whichever one was taken first. The needle is inserted into the middle of the thread, as if splitting it inside. We insert the needle at a distance of at least 2 needles, i.e. about 5 centimeters.
Then we pull out the needle with the tip of the thread and level the yarn by simply pulling in different directions.
We do the same on the other side.
Now we simply cut off the remaining ends, twist the thread a little.
And you're done! A small knitting area at the junction will be a little denser, as if in 2 strands, but in the finished product it will already be difficult to see. But for a thin thread, this method will not work.
Weaving knot
But it is this method that is better suited for a thin thread, but on thicker yarn it will be noticeable. The connection of the threads is almost always strong. If you forcefully pull the threads in different directions and they do not start to "ride" over each other, then the knot sits tightly and will never come loose. Therefore, be sure to check! It happens that the yarn is slippery, and then there will be just an inconspicuous knot at the junction (the knot becomes the size of a thread of yarn), but the ends will still need to be tucked in before the final cut.
For the master class, threads of two different colors were taken for clarity. We make a loop of orange yarn, but so that the tip lies on top of the thread from the ball or from the product. We put the pink thread under the loop.
And now we just pull all 4 ends of the threads in different directions, strongly, strongly, then the knot will be invisible.
If the threads do not "run", then we cut the short ends to the very knot. Fear not, the knot will never come loose.
If, nevertheless, one thread moves along the other, then the ends must be hidden in the product and only then cut off.
The node is ready.
We hope you succeed.
Share your result with us and leave comments.
Author Tatiana
/ 13.06.2018 at 11:06
Good day, dear needlewomen and needlewomen. Have you ever had such annoying troubles? They tied a beautiful thing, vilified it, washed it, and then you notice - out of nowhere a hole appeared on the product. Moreover, it is completely incomprehensible where it came from there? It seems that they weren't hooked anywhere, and nothing was torn ... One of my friends once had this. And as the reason later turned out - the knot was simply untied, with the help of which she connected the threads ...
The connection of threads during knitting really plays an important role - both in terms of reliability and in terms of the aesthetic appearance of the product. Today we'll talk about how this can be done, and it's up to you and choose which one is best for you.
Method 1: Direct knot
To be honest, before I somehow did not care much about how best to connect the threads when knitting. Once upon a time I saw in an old knitting manual that this should be done with the help of the so-called straight knot.
Later, I learned from other sources that this knot turns out to be one of the oldest known to mankind. Archaeological excavations prove that it was used by the ancient Egyptians of the era of the Old Kingdom (2990 BC), and the ancient Romans and Greeks called it "Hercules", or "Hercules" knot, as they believed that it was precisely such a knot that Hercules ( Hercules) tied the skin of a defeated lion. And they have been using the direct knot for many centuries - in various fields and for different occasions.
And this knot is made very simply.
We put the end of one thread on the end of another thread:
We wrap the top end around the bottom end, as with normal knot tying:
Now the end that lies on top is placed on the lower end.
And we wrap the other end with it from below:
We pull on the short ends and tighten the long ends with effort so that the knot is fixed:
I used this method for a long time. He did not let me down and fully justified himself on fleecy yarn with a wool content, or on acrylic. The knot is small and strong.
But that was not the case when I had to knit from smooth "slippery" threads, such as mercerized cotton, or cotton with viscose, silk, or wool with nylon. The knot turned out to be insidious! You pull on the threads to secure it, and it suddenly slides and ... untied.
I will add some more interesting facts about this "insidious" node. It is noteworthy that sailors used it for a long time to tie two ropes of the same thickness, and this knot is still recommended in some textbooks on maritime science.
But here is what is said in the "Book of Anshley's Knots" (London 1977), widely known in certain circles abroad: "Previously, this knot in the fleet had a specific purpose - they tied the reef seasons of the sails when they took the reefs ... It cannot be used to connect two cables that will be subject to strong traction. This knot crawls, it is dangerous when it gets wet."... Elsewhere in his book, Anshley writes: "Used to tie two cables together, this knot has claimed more lives than a dozen other knots combined."... In general, the conclusions are obvious ...
Method 2: Weaving (industrial) knot
No matter how convenient and familiar a straight knot seemed, for slippery threads another solution had to be found. And it was found. This is a weaving or industrial knot. Here he just turned out to be strong, and imperceptible, and completely reliable on any yarn!
They say that such a knot is used by professional weavers in factories to eliminate thread breaks, and that this knot does not even crawl on the line! True, I did not try to test the strength and reliability of this knot on the fishing line, but on slippery threads it fully justified itself.
So, see how it's done. At the end of one thread, we make a loop like this:
We pass the end of the other thread from below into this loop and bring it to the right under the first thread, like this (it is better to stretch the tip longer):
The same tip that was just inserted into the loop, we again enter into the same loop, already from the other side:
We slightly tighten the short ends, holding the knot with our fingers, checking if everything is correct and even and located:
We tighten the long ends with effort so that the knot is no more than the diameter of the threads:
What else is this knot good for? It turns out to be so small in volume and so strong that, if you wish, you can even cut the ends of the threads right next to the knot, so that later these ends are not tucked in. But for greater reliability, I still prefer to leave the tips.
In conclusion, I want to say that there are many ways to connect threads. Some knitters even like, in some cases, to introduce a new thread without knots at all, but this method is not always suitable. The fact is that there you need to knit several loops with a double thread at the junction points, and then thread the ends. Thickening results, which in some patterns and some yarns may be too noticeable. But in certain cases this method is also good.
Well, one more little trick that many knitters use, including me. Whenever possible, when knitting individual parts of the product, I try to attach a new thread at the beginning or at the end of the row, so that the junction can then be hidden in the seams, and it was completely invisible. It's just that if I see that the remaining end of the thread is not enough to tie the row to the end, I cut off the thread before the beginning of the row and attach another.
Winding the yarn into a ball.
Before knitting, it is best to prepare the yarn by winding it from the skeleton into a ball - this will make it more convenient and faster to feed the thread when knitting.
1. To do this, carefully spread the skeleton and ask the assistant to put both ends of the skeleton on your hands, or you can put it on the back of the chair instead of the assistant. Find the end of the thread and wind it around your fingers as shown in the figure, then tie in the middle with the free end of the thread, forming a "butterfly". Fold the two wings together and place in your left hand.
2. Begin to wind the thread around the "butterfly" and thumb (see picture), so we will have a small free hole inside the ball. We continue to wind the thread further until the sack ends. Remember to turn the ball frequently so that the thread winds evenly throughout the ball. When you start knitting from the ball, take the butterfly out of the center and use the free end of the butterfly thread to knit. Pulling the thread out of the center of the ball will prevent the ball from rolling from side to side.
Square knot.
When we need to connect the ends of the threads when knitting so that the knot remains on the wrong side, you can use this type of knot. Shown in two colors for clarity.
Wrap knot.
It is used when joining in knitting yarns of different thicknesses.
1. Make a loop of thick thread and press with your finger. Insert a thin thread into the loop and wrap it around the loop.
2. Now take the end of the thin thread that was wrapped around the loop, pass it under the thick thread and over the other end of the thin thread.
3. Hold the ends of the thick thread in one hand and the ends of the thin thread in the other, gently pull on the ends, tightening the knot
Joining a new thread to work.
Attaching yarn from a new ball.
1. Always join a new thread at the beginning of the row. Knot the ends of the threads from knitting and from a new ball.
2. Pull up the knot so that it is close to the 1st stitch. Subsequently, this knot will hide under the seam with which the product will be sewn. If you knit a product without seams, for example, such as a blanket or a scarf, then tie the knot loosely, in order to untie it later and imperceptibly weave the ends of the threads into the edge of the product.
Attaching a thread of a different color.
1. Wrap the ends of the yarn from knitting and from the new ball around the right knitting needle and fold them together. Knit the 1st stitch of the row with the front double thread (of two colors). Now just drop the thread with the previous color and continue to knit further with the thread with the new color.
2. When you finish knitting the part, you need to weave the thread with the 2nd (attached) color from the 1st color and thread the free ends of the thread with a tapestry needle into the edge of the product.
Winding up the long end of the thread left at the beginning of knitting.
The long end of the thread left at the start of knitting can become tangled and interfered with during work. So that it does not get in the way, you can wind it in the form of a "butterfly" (see fig.) Close to knitting.
1. While trying to stay close to knitting paradise, wind the long end of the thread around your thumb and forefinger, as shown in the figure, in a figure-eight shape.
2. Remove the butterfly thread from your thumb and forefinger, and wrap the tip of the thread around the middle several times. Thread the ponytail through the knot.
Securing the end of the thread to the knitted edge.
If you have just finished knitting, you need to thread the ends of all the threads so that the wrong side looks neat. We thread each end of the thread into a tapestry needle with a large eye and fasten them vertically or horizontally - looking in the direction of the loops on the seamy side of the work, pulling them through the loops, as shown in the figure.