Do you know that women wore in ancient Russia? And what was allowed to wear a man? What was witnessed in ancient Russia, and what - boyars? These and other no less interesting questions you will find answers in the article.

What kind of shirt

- "I know, what is the background here," we will say now, having learned the true cause of one or another incident. But during the times of Kievan Rus, this meant something completely different. The fact is that the clothes then cost very expensive, she was bothering, and so that the shirt served as much as possible, it was strengthened with the lining for strength, that is, the down. It can be assumed that the ironic subtext, this expression has acquired due to the fact that some poor things boasted a rich sewing, but they were given the exhaust, sewn from cheap fabric. After all, the clothes of ancient Russia served not only for insulation, but also to underline their social status. The shirt here had an important meaning. Note it was the bottom clothes, for the poor, often the only thing, not counting ports and noodles. In addition, the shirt of the vehicle was significantly shorter, so as not to throw movements.

Ornament from Schalza

The boyars did not work in the field, so they could afford the bottom clothes hardly to the knees. But regardless of whether you or rich, you should have a belly on the shirt. The word "broke out" was used in the literal sense, but had an equally negative shade. In addition, the ornament was very desirable on this part of the clothes. His patterns were protected from evil eyes and other troubles. Death was a frequent guest in peasant sinks. Then the use of "honeycomb" shirts went. White with white embroidery, if parents died, and embroidered with black patterns, if there was a mourning for children. Each piece of clothing has and ritual meaning. When the widow frightened the village, preventing it from such misfortunes, like a cholera or case of livestock, they were prolonged, without shoes and in snow-white, without any jewelry shirts.

For any cases, shirts, they did not have a collar. It was replaced by the so-called necklace, which was stamped from behind a button. Such a collar approached any other clothes. And the longest is preserved such a kind of shirt as Kosososotka. She appeared in IX, and rushed until the XX century. Pill with a small hole for the head and neckline on the left side of the chest - that's all. Just and practical.

Curtain on a land

Separately, the shirts were worn very rarely. In the center and in the north of Russia, Sarafan was put on top, and in the south - deraink. What is imjection? In ancient Russia, it was a kind of skirt, only consisting of one, but from three woolen or half-walled panels, pulled on the waist of the Gasnik. This belt was a sign that a married woman. The color of the area was dark, with a red or blue tint, less often - black. On the weekly, they were closed at the bottom of the brain or Kumach, and on the holidays, they got the deneurs from the chests, whose healing were decorated as many multicolor embroidery.

Women in those days accounted for difficult in many senses. Clothing here is no exception. The feature of the female clothing of ancient Russia was that on top of the above they put on the apron, which was called the curtain, and completed the Russian sketching suit, wool or half-wallest shushpan.

Six kilograms on the head

Head women's clothes deserve a separate mention. In a married woman, he could reach six kilogram weight. The main thing is that this design completely closes the hair. The people have long believed that they possess the witchcraft power. The foundation from the canvas was fledged by hemp or barking, so that it turned out a solid naked part. This was called the kico, which ended with a cover from Citz, Velvet or Kumacha. The heads were covered with a rolled, rectangular strip of fabric. In total, such a "hat" could include twelve parts. In winter on the head of Slavs, it was possible to see a round fur hat, but the hair was completely closed with a handkerchief. On holidays on the heads, Kokoshnik appeared with a bottom of the matter and the basis of the solid material. Usually it was covered with a gold cloth and trimmed with pearls.

Girls accounted for much easier. Their headdress in ancient Russia was similar to the dressing, hoop or crown. If such a whip was richly decorated, it was called the bark. Tough, often a metal base covered with a decorated fabric was fashionable from urban scoops. In the villages, virgin whistles were easier. Men preferred round hats with a fur rim. Sheep, sands and foxes walked on fur. We also worn dried hats and caps from felt. Usually their form was cone-shaped, and the top is rounded. They sewed them from flax and wool, and also knitted. Tubetsee from Soboles could only afford the princes and the near boyars.

Clothes for foot

The legs were wrapped with a canvas cloth or cloth, and on these onuchi put on lapties or cats, leather shoes. But the very first leather shoes in Russia were pistons. They were made from a solid piece of skin, which was granted on the edge of the strap. Lapti from Lyk was very short-lived. Even in the village they were worn no more than ten days. On urban bridges, they were stuck even faster. Therefore, lapties from leather straps were more common there. They often laughed metal plates, so there were peculiar sandals.

Now the most traditional shoes in Russia are believed to be boots. But in fact, they appeared only in the XIX century and were very expensive. Usually in the family there was only one couple of boots. We wore them in turn. The boots were distributed much earlier. They are sewed from the skin equally for men and women. Knife felt in boots from Safyan, goat leather, painted in a lime solution and polished stone, YUFTI, that is, thick skin, and the guard, the skin of calves. Other names boot - Ichigi and Cheboths. Shoes that were tied with laces were women's shoes. Heels appeared on them only in the XVI century and could reach 10 centimeters.

From ports to trousers

If we talk about the pants, then this word came on Russia from the Turkish somewhere in the XVII century. Before that, the clothes for the legs were called ports. They did them not very wide, almost in tightness. Between two pants, for the convenience of walking, sewed a lasty. Long, these primitive trousers were before the leg where they fled in Onuchi. Worthy people were sewed in summer from the taffeta, and in winter from Sukna. There were no buttons, and there was no cut for them. On the hips, the ports kept with a lace. Something similar to the pants in the modern understanding of this word appeared in Russia under Peter I.

Without pants in Russia do not survive

The great importance of the rivers was determined, of course, the climate. In winter, without pants, like in Rome or Constantinople, you will not leave the street. And the outer wear of ancient Russia was largely different from the one that was in everyday life in most European countries. Going out to the street, laid warm long suits from the cloth. They had the sleeves with the temples, and the gate with a postponed collar. They were fastened with the help of loops. This is characteristic precisely for Old Russian clothing. People have entered the fashion of Kaftana from Aksmita and Velvet. Zipun is a type of caftana without a collar. The boyar counted him with herd clothes, and fortune rided on the street. The word "ZHUBAN" is now considered to be Polish or Czech, but it has been used as ancient times in Russia. This is the same suite, but shorter, a little longer below the waist. And, of course, speaking of winter, it is impossible not to mention the fur. It must be said that clothing from fur and its number did not serve as a sign of wealth. The fur beast in the forests was more than enough. Fur coats sewed inside. We wore not only in the cold, but also in the summer, even indoors. You can recall the historical films and the sailing of the boyars in fur coats and fur caps.

Old Russian Dublenka

One of the signs of well-being in our time is a sheepskin. But the Slavs have such clothes - the casing - was almost in every home. They made it from the skin of goats or sheep fur inside. On the peasants it was more likely to see Tulup, a sheepskin casing. If the simple person wore healing casing, then the boyars were preferred to cover them from above ingenous, dear matter. This could be, for example, Byzantine Parch. Covered knee length later transformed into a wicker. They were worn and women.

But other varieties of men's winter clothes of ancient Russia are more firmly forgotten. For example, Armenian. Initially, he was taken away from the Tatar and sewed from camel wool. But it was too exotic, besides, sheep wool was no worse. They put on Armenian on top of Toulup, so it was not possible to fasten it. One more indispensable attribute of the ancient Russian wardrobe was on the move: Kushak.

One of the oldest Slavic robes - Epancha. It is a round raincoat with a hood, but without sleeves. Came from Arabs and mentioned even in the "Word about the regiment of Igor". From the XVI century, it became a cape that had fallen in solemn cases, and at the Feld Marsh, Suvorov Epancha became part of the soldiers and officer form. Okhaben wore people from the highest estates. After all, they sewed him from the brocade or velvet. A feature of Okhabnya was extremely long sleeves that threw behind the back, where they tied the knot. At Easter, noble boyars went to serve in Fermani. It was already a top of luxury, royal ceremonial clothing.

We mention such clothes for all classes like a single-order. This is a kind of caftana, but long-profile and buttons to the hem. Sewed from color cloth, without a collar.

In bathrobe and fur coat

Modesta winter preferred fur coats with decorative sleeves. They were long and folded, and for the hands were meant above the waist above. Many species of Russian costume were distinctive. In an example, you can give a shink. For the peasant, it was a festive outfit, and for more prosperous young lady - everyday. Shinery - free, narrow front of clothes, long rarely reaching the middle of the hips. Usually from expensive tissues with beautiful patterns. Shugay is another kind of short, fitted outerwear resembling a modern sweater. Could have a fur collar. Wealthy residents of cities wore upper clothes and cotton fabric. In the chronicles there is a mention of the gowns on the princely daughters. For commoners, they apparently were in the wonder.

From flax and sermyag

The fabrics, of which they sewed clothes, were originally not distinguished by a great variety. Flax and cannabis went to the native shirt. The top, the outline was woolen, and warm suits were made of coarse Sermya and sheepskin. Gradually, representatives of noble families acquired more and more silk fabrics from Byzantium. In the source included a brocade and velvet.

Cloak and power

For a long time, the obligatory subject of Russian wardrobe, especially the prince, was a raincoat. He was sleeveless, caught on his shoulders, and near the neck was scared by a phbula. Wore rascape and death. The difference consisted as a fabric yes that the commoner did not use the fibulas. The first of the famous species of the raincoat is arapist, from a fabric of plant origin. The landpashers, and the princes could be worn. But Mattle is already a sign of high origin. For the damage of this raincoat during a fight even relied fine. After a few centuries, Myatli could be seen more often on the monks than in urban mods. But Corsno chronicles mention only when they want to emphasize the princely dignity of his owner. Most likely, such a cloak did not have the right to wear even the most approximate boyars. There is a case when he saved a person from death. For some reason, the prince wanted to save someone, over whom the sword was already listed. For this, he threw Corzno on him.

Canvy

What is a canvas fabric? Now not any person knows the answer to this question. And in the Domongolian Rus, a deckwater clothing was the most common and nonde, and in commonholders. Flax and hemp - the first plants that have become used for the manufacture of fabric and clothing, mainly shoes and ports. Girls in those long-standing times wore a moan. Simply put, this is a piece of fabric, which fucked in half and made a neckline for the head. They put on top of the northeat and subjected. The daughters of more wealthy families have underwear from thin materials, all others are from the coarsest, which resembled burlap. They called the shirt from the wool, she was so coarse that she was worn by monks for humble flesh.

Will Okhaben in fashion

Much of the wardrobe of the ancient fashionists and the scoops, changing a little, preserved to the present day, but it became far from that way. The same casing is a good dressing stands as an inexpensive machine. Fur shrinking, too, for the pocket is far from every woman. But wearing Okhabny or one-order is now hardly anyone wants. Although, fashion, they say returns.

Publications of the section Tradition

The most unusual headdiers of Russian wives

In the old days, the headdress was the most significant and elegant subject of a female costume. He could tell a lot about his owner - about her age, family and social status and even whether she had children. About the most unusual headquarters of Russian women - in the material of the portal "Culture.rf".

Female festive suit. Nizhny Novgorod province. Photo: Narodko.ru.

Kokoshnik. Photo: lebrecht.co.

Female festive suit. Bryansk province. Photo: Glebushkin.ru.

In Russia, the girls were pretty simple on the shape of a dressing and wreaths (crowns), leaving those and braid open. On the day of the wedding, Maiden Spruce was broken and stacked around the head, that is, "surrounded". From this rite and born the expression to "surround the girl", that is, to marry her. At the heart of the tradition to cover the head lay an ancient idea that the hair absorb negative energy. The girl, however, could risk, demonstrating Spit to potential grooms, but a proliferant wife had a shame and misfortune for the whole family. Located "Baby" the hair covered with a cap with a cap - a tower or a hairless. From above they put on a headdress that had, unlike the girl, complex design. On average, this journal consisted of four or ten removable parts.

Headgear of the Russian South

The border between the Great-Russian North and South ran through the territory of the modern Moscow region. To Northern Russia, ethnographers include Vladimir and Tver, and to South Tula and Ryazan. Moscow itself experienced the influence of cultural traditions of both regions.

The female peasant suit of the southern regions was fundamentally different from the North. Agricultural south was more conservative. The peasants here in general lived poorer than in the Russian northern, where trade was actively carried out with foreign merchants. Up to the beginning of the 20th century, in South Russian villages, the ancient type of Russian costume was wore - a checkered meal (waist clothing like a skirt) and a long shirt, decorated with a subsidence of which peeking out. According to the silhouette, the South Russian outfit reminded the barrel, the forties and spokes were combined with him - hats, which differed in a variety of styles and the complexity of the design.

Kika Rogata

The horns - the headdress of the peasantry of the District of the Nagalovshchyna Mikhailovsky County of the Ryazan province. End of the XIX - early XX centuries. Photo: Ryazan historical and architectural museum-reserve.

The peasant of the Ryazan province in horned kicke. Photo: Foundation of the Russian Ethnographic Museum (RAM).

The word "Kika" comes from the Old Slavonic "Kick" - "Hair". This is one of the oldest hats, which goes back to the images of female pagan deities. In the presentation of the Slavs, the horns were a symbol of fertility, so we could only wear them "Muzzled Baba". In most regions, the right to wear a horned kick woman received a woman after the birth of the first child. They put on kick and on weekdays, and on holidays. To hold a massive session (the horns could reach 20-30 centimeters in height), the woman had to high down their head. So it appeared the word "throw" - walk, taking the nose.

The clergy was actively fought with the pagan attribution: women were forbidden to attend the church in the horned kits. By the beginning of the XIX century, this journal practically disappeared from everybody, but in the Ryazan province it was worn up to the twentieth century. Even a chastushka is preserved:

Ryazan horns
I never kin never.
I will eat one meakin,
And his horns do not throw!

Kika hoist

Festive suit of the young peasant of the Ostrogogian county of Voronezh province. End XIX - early XX century. Photo: Zagorsk State Historical and Art Museum-Reserve.

"People" is first mentioned in document 1328. Presumably, at that time, women had already wore all sorts of derivatives from hornedkik - in the form of a kittel, blades, roller. Grown out of horned and sick in the form of hooves or horseshoes. Solid Warming (Naked Part) was tightly richly decorated, often sewished gold. It was attached on top of the "caps" with a cord or tapes tied around the head. Like a horseshoe suspended above the entrance door, this journal was designed to protect against a bad eye. We wore it on holidays all married women.

Until the 1950s, such "Xibi" could be seen in the village weddings in the Voronezh region. Against the background of black and white - the main colors of the Voronezh female costume - shown by the golden of Kika looked like the most expensive decoration. The many hoof-shaped kicks of the XIX century were preserved, assembled on the territory from Lipetsk to Belgorod - it speaks of their wide distribution in the Central Black Earth region.

Soroka Tula

Festive suit of the young peasant of the Novosilian county of the Tula province. Photo: Foundation of the Russian Ethnographic Museum (RAM).

Suit of the peasant of the Tula province. Photo: Foundation of the Russian Ethnographic Museum (RAM).

In different parts of Russia, the same headdress was called differently. Therefore, today experts cannot finally agree that it is considered to be a kica, and what is the fortune. The confusion in terms, multiplied by the great diversity of Russian hats, led to the fact that in the literature under the fortune there is often one of the details of Kiki and, on the contrary, under the mik, the composite part of the forty is understood. In a number of regions, approximately from the XVII century, forty existed as an independent complex of married woman. A vivid example of this is Tula forty.

Identifying your "bird" title, forty shared on the side parts - wings and rear-tail. The tail was trampled in a circle pleated multicolored ribbons, which made it like a peacock. Bright outlets were rhymed with a headdress, which were sewn at the rear. Such an outfit women wore on holidays, usually in the first two or three years after the wedding.

Almost all of the museums stored in museums and personal collections were found on the territory of the Tula province.

Headgear of the Russian North

The basis of the northern female costume was a sundress. For the first time, it is mentioned in the Nikonov Chronicles of 1376. Initially shortened, caftana Sundars wore noble men. Only by the XVII century, Sarafan acquired a friend acquainted to us and finally swore into a female wardrobe.

In the documents of the XVII century, the word "Kokoshnik" is found. "Kokosh" in the ancient Russian meant "Chicken". Probably the headdress was called due to the similarity with the chicken scallop. He emphasized the triangular silhouette of Sarafan.

According to one of the versions, Kokoshnik appeared in Russia under the influence of the Byzantine costume. We wore it primarily noble women.

After Peter I reform, which forbidden wearing a traditional national costume among the nobility, Sundars and Kokoshniki remained in the wardrobe of the deposits, burghers, and peasants, but in a more modest version. In the same period, the Kokoshnik in a complex with a sundress penetrated into the southern regions, where he had long remained the outfit of exclusively rich women. Kokoshniki was decorated much richer than forties and kiki: she was trimmed with pearls and glass, a parol and velvet, hangear and lace.

Collection (Samshaura, Morsch)

Headdress "Collection". Novgorod province. End of the XVIII - the beginning of the XIX centuries. Photo: Fund of the State Historical Museum.

Female suit with the headdress "Collection". Orlovskaya province, con. XIX century Photo: Foundation of the Russian Ethnographic Museum (RAM).

One of the most universal hats of the XVIII-XIX centuries had many names and sewing options. For the first time, it is mentioned in written sources of the XVII century as Samshura (Shamshura). Probably, this word was formed from the verb to "shame" or "shampecker" - it is vigorously talking, and in a figurative sense - "to mive, press." In the explanatory dictionary of Vladimir Daly Samshura was defined as the "Vologda headdress of a married woman."

Combined all the jackets of this type collected or "wrinkled" hat. Low crash similar to the capes was part of the daily costume rather. High looked impressive as the Khrestomny Kokoshnik, and put on on holidays. The casual collection was sewed from the cheaper fabric, and the handkerchief was put on top of it. Collection of an old woman could look like a simple black cap. Festive young people covered with a pussy ribbon, expanded by gemstones.

This kind of Kokoshnik came from the northern regions - Vologda, Arkhangelsk, Vyatka. He fell in love with women in Central Russia, got into Western Siberia, Transbaikalia, to Altai. Together with the subject, the Word itself has spread. In the XIX century, under the name "Samshura" in different provinces began to understand different types of headdress.

Kokoshnik Pskovsky (Shishak)

Female festive headdress - "Kokoshnik". Pskov province, end of the XIX century. Photo: Fund of the Russian Ethnographic Museum.

Female festive suit. Pskov province. Photo: Fund of the Russian Ethnographic Museum.

A classic silhouette in the form of an elongated triangle had a Pskov version of Kokoshnik - Wedding Headdress Shishak. Shishchiki, who gave him the name, symbolized fertility. The saying was: "How many cones, so many kids." They were called on the front of the Shishak, decorating the pearl. On the bottom edge, the pearl mesh was sewn - puddle. On the top of the newlywed, the white shied with gold shawl put on over. One such Kokoshnik cost from 2 to 7 thousand rubles with silver, therefore was kept in the family as a relic, passed from his mother to his daughter.

Pskov Kokoshnik received the greatest fame in the XVIII-XIX centuries. Especially famous for the masters of Toropetsky County of Pskov province were especially famous. Therefore, Chishaki was often called Toropetic Kokoshniki. There are a lot of portraits of a torment in a pearl journey, glorifying this edge.

Tver "heel"

Women's hats - "Cabinets". Tver province. End of the XVIII - the beginning of the XIX centuries. Photo: Fund of the State Historical Museum.

The cylindrical "heel" was in fashion at the end of the XVIII and throughout the XIX century. This is one of the most original varieties of Kokoshnik. We wore it on holidays, so sewed from silk, velvet, golden galun, decorated with stones. Under the "heel", similar to a small cap, was put on a wide pearl poda. She covered the whole head, because the compact headdress itself covered only the top. The heel was so common in Tver province, which became a kind of "calling card" of the region. The artists who worked with the Russian Topics were fed to it. Andrei Ryabushkin depicted a woman in Tverskoy Kokosnik in the picture "Sunday Day" (1889). The same journal is depicted on the "portrait of the wife of the merchant of exemplary" (1830) Alexey Venetsianova. His wife Marfa Afanasyevna Venetcianov also wrote in a suit of the Tver checkpichki with an indispensable "cable" (1830).

By the end of the XIX century, in the territory of all of Russia, complex headdresses began to give the place of shalms, reminded the ancient Russian handkerchief - the remur. The very tradition of tag tag was preserved from the Middle Ages, and during the heyday of industrial weaving received a new life. Universally sold the factory shawls woven from high-quality expensive threads. According to the old tradition, married women wore scarves and shawl over the dummy, closing her hair thoroughly. The time consuming process of creating a unique headdress, which was transmitted from generation to generation, went out in the fly.

Drawings N. Muller

You can collect not only brands, porcelain, autographs, match and wine labels, you can collect words.
I was as an artist in costumes, interested and interested words related to costumes. This interest has emerged for a long time. As a student of guitis, I made a course work "Theater costume in the theaters of Count N. P. Sheremetyev" and suddenly read: "... Dresses were made from Stamad." But what is it? Stamad became the first "instance" of my collection. But reading fiction literature, we are quite often encountered with the words-relics whose meanings we sometimes do not know or know approximately.
Fashion has always been a "capricious wind", to change one fashion, one names came another fashion, other names. Old words were either forgotten, or lost their initial meaning. Probably, few can now imagine dresses stitched from the material Grand Ramage or Color "Spider, Making Crime," and in the XIX century such dresses were fashionable.

Sections of the dictionary:

Fabrics
Women's clothing
Men's clothing
Shoes, hats, bags, etc.
Costume Details, Bottom Dress
National Suit (Kyrgyz, Georgian)

Fabrics 1

"There were a lot of priest girls, and with them so much gold, fabrics of colored and asamita precious."
"The word about the regiment of Igor."

Aksamit. This velvet tissue has received its name from EXAMITON technology - fabric prepared in 6 threads.
Several species of this fabric have been known: smooth, looped, stripped. It was used for making expensive clothes and for upholstery of furniture.
In ancient Rus, it was one of the most expensive and beloved fabrics. Starting from the X to XIII century, its only supplier was Byzantia. But the Byzantine Aksamites did not reach us, the technique of making them to the XV century was forgotten, and the name would have respected. We have reached Venetian Aksmites of the XVI-XVII centuries.
The great demand of AXAMIT in Russia in the XVI-XVII centuries and its high cost has caused enhanced imitation. Russian craftswomen successfully imitated rich patterns and loops of Aksamit. By the 70s of the XVIII century, fashion for asthma passed and the importation of tissues in Russia stopped.

"What time are you dressed up today in a woolen dress! Could Nonche and Barezhem be like ".
A. Chekhov. "Before wedding".

Barezh - Inexpensive fine, lightweight semi-wool or semi-hinged tissue of tight twisted yarn. It received its name from the city of Barzha, the sole of the pyrenees, the place where this tissue was initially posted in a manual way and was on the manufacture of peasant clothes.

"... And Hiton from the precious Sargon Visson is such a brilliant gold color that the clothes seemed to woven from the sun's rays."
A. Kuprin. Sullaif.

Veson - Dear, very light, transparent fabric. In Greece, Rome, Phenicia, Egypt went to the manufacture of clothes of kings and courtiers. Mumia Pharaoh, according to Herodotus, wrapped with bandages from Visson.

"Sophia Nikolaevna stood up with his liveliness, took from the tray and brought his father a piece of the aglitsky subtle cloth and Camzole from the silver eye, the whole richly embroidered ..."

Showing - Silk fabric with gold or silver dodge. Complicated by developing, had a large drawing with a picture of flowers or a geometric ornament. It cares was several varieties. Close to the passage, it was used to sewing camsis and theater costumes. Another grade was on the manufacture of church apparers, coffins.

"... Yes, three Ghogronova are thirteen, Grodenply, and Groodafrikov ..."
A. Ostrovsky. "His people tear up."

"... in a silk headcard with goldsturbs handkerchiefs on the head."
S. Aksakov. "Family Chronicle".

GRU - The name of French very dense silk fabrics. In the tenths of the XIX century, when the fashion for transparent, lightweight materials passed, the use of dense silk fabrics entered. Gro-Gro - Silk Matter, dense, severe; Grac de Perso - Silk fabric of a gray-pearly color, gear de tour - the cloth received a name from the city of a tour, where the first time began to be made. In Russia, she was called headset. Grac de-floor - silk dense fabric, pretty light, also called the name from the city of Naples, where it was made.

"One was dressed in a luxurious bodice of the lady; Stretched with gold, lost shine, and a simple canvas skirt. "
P. Merim. "Chronicle of Charles X".

LADY - Silk fabric, on a smooth background of which dug out color patterns, more often a brilliant pattern on a matte background. Now such a fabric is called Damascus.

"Women in the scenes, striped headscarves with children in their hands ... stood around the porch."
L. Tolstoy. "Childhood".

Schedule - cheap coarse linen fabric, often synepucked. The fabric was called the name of the merchant the merchant, on whose manufacturers in Yaroslavl it was produced.

"... White Casimiric Pantalonians with stains, which were once stretched on the feet of Ivan Nikiforovach, and which can now tighten on his fingers."
N. Gogol. "The story of how Ivan Ivanovich was quarreled with Ivan Nikiforovich."

Casimir - Hemishet cloth, light cloth or half cone, with oblique thread. Casimir was Moden at the end of the 18th century. From it sewed frances, shaped dresses, pantalonons. The fabric was smooth and striped. Striped Casimir at the beginning of the XIX century was no longer moden.

"... and with annoyance mowed on wives and daughters of Dutch skippers, which in the canifaceous skirts and red blouses knitted their stocking ..."
A. Pushkin. "Arap Peter the Great".

Kanifas. - Dense cotton fabric with relief pattern, mostly striped. For the first time, this fabric appeared in Russia, obviously, under Peter I. It is currently not produced.

"In a minute, a blond small thing entered the dining room - in the pants from the striped motley, covered in boots."

Pestry, or Pestry - Rough linen or cotton fabric from multicolored threads, usually household and very cheap. Sarafany, shirts and aprons sewed from it. At present, all sarpins and plaid are produced by its type.

"On the edge, leaning against the wet birch, stood an old shepherd, skinny in a ragged Sermyrah without a hat."
A. Chekhov. "Swirl".

Sermyag. - Rough, more often journal unpacked cloth. In the XV-XVI centuries, the clothes from Sermya were decorated with a bright finish. Caftan from this cloth was also called Sermy.

"Ketcher appeared to me in a black raincoat without a collar, hit by black stoyed as the devil in Robert.
I. Panayev. "Literary memories."

Stamad (Staya) - Woolen bunching fabric, not very expensive, was usually on the lining. It was manufactured in the XVII-XVIII centuries in Holland. The peasantry from this fabric was sewing sundresses that were called Stamedniks. By the end of the XIX century, this fabric was separated from use.

"After all, I walk in Moscow on foot in a narrow, short trousers yes in a twin coat with multi-colored sleeves - this is worse than death."
A. Ostrovsky. "Last victim."

Twin - A smooth-colored semi-cooler fabric in the 80s of the XIX century was on the manufacture of dresses and top clothes of the poor citizens. Now not produced.

"When she came out to him in a white Tarlatan dress, with a branch of small blue flowers in a slightly raised hair, he became so painful."
I. Turgenev. "Smoke".

TARLATAN - One of the lightest cotton or semi-honeycomb fabrics was similar to a bride or muslin. Previously, she went to the dresses, at a later time he was strongly accomplished on the lower skirts.

"General Karlovich because of the collapse pulled out a fulyar handkerchief, wiped her face and neck under the wig."
A. Tolstoy. "Peter the First".

FOULARD - Very light silk fabric, which went to the ladies' dresses and scarves. It was cheap. Fulyar was also called cervical and handkerchiefs.

"Paul came to the classroom, in the yellow friezes of a surtuk and in a white neck tie."
M. Saltykov-Shchedrin. "Poshekhonskaya older".

FRIEZE - coarse wool, lumpy fabric; Loved the bike, the top things selected from it. Now it came out of use.

Women's clothing 2

"She had a dress" Adrienne "from the scarlet Grodetur, laid out on the seams, in a drawing, silver galoon ..."
Vyach. Shishkov "Emelyan Pugachev".

"Adrienne" - A loose dress, falling down the bell. On the back - a wide tissue cloth fixed in deep folds. The name happened from the play of the Alery Terentation. In 1703, in this play for the first time appeared in such a French actress Doncur. In England, such a cut dress called the contour or kuntush. Antoine Watto drew a lot of women in such robes, because the style was called "Watto's folds". To the second half of the XVIII century, the Taison was made out of use, such dresses could only be seen on a poor city branches.

"The dress did not close anywhere, nowhere went down the lace berth ..."
L. Tolstoy "Anna Karenina".

Bertha - horizontal strip of lace or material in the form of pellinics. Already in the XVII century, it was separated by dresses, but especially a great passion for this decoration was in the 30s-40s of the XIX century.

"Every night I see in a dream, as if I dance in raspberry bostrga."
A. Tolstoy "Peter First".

Bostrog (Flock, Bostrog) - Men's jacket of Dutch origin. She was a favorite clothes of Peter I. On the Saardam shipyard, he walked in the Red Bostrog. As the shaped clothing of sailors for the first time, Bostrog is mentioned in the Marine Charter of 1720. Subsequently, he was replaced by Bushlat. In the old days in Tambov and Ryazan provinces, Bostok - Women's Epanechka (see the explanation below) on the lists.

"Duckly sat on her dark woolen burly, perfectly stitched."
N. Nekrasov. "Three Light Countries."

Burnous - Cloak from white sheep wool, sleeveless, with a hood, which was worn by Bedouins. In France, the burgers became fashionable since 1830. In the forties of the XIX century, they are in fashion everywhere. Sewed brunas from wool, velvet, finished with embroidery.

"Do not dare to wear this WaterPruff! Hear! And then I'm inspiring him in a nurser ... "
A. Chekhov "Volodya".

Waterprof - Wildwide female coat. Comes from English Water - Water, Proof - withstanding.

"On the porch stands itold woman
In an expensive Soboliashowling. "
A. Pushkin "Tale of fisherman and fish."

Shrinking. In the Petersburg, Novgorod, Pskov provinces, this old Russian women's clothing was sewed without sleeves, on straps. In front, she had a cut and a large amount of buttons. Rear - fees. Known and other cut - no harvest. They put on a slope on top of Sarafan. Distributions wore women of all layers - from peasants to noble boyars. They made them warm and cold, from various material: expensive velvet, satin and simple domain cloth. In the Nizhny Novgorod province, shredding - short clothing with sleeves.

"On her shoulders, something like Epanechi from Punchy Velvet, pubes with the sings, was thrown.
N. Nekrasov "Three World Countries".

Epanechka. In the central provinces of the European part of Russia - short clothes on the straps. Front straight, on the back of the folds. Bid - from the crawled canvas crawled, festive - from brocade, velvet, silk.

"... Baroness was in a silk immense circumference of a dress, light gray, with ruffles in Krnolina."
F. Dostoevsky "Player".

Crinoline - The lower skirt from the horse's hair, comes from two French words: crin - horse hair, Lin - flax. The French entrepreneur in the 30s of the XIX century was invented. In the 50s of the XIX century, steel hoops or whalers were sewn into the lower skirt, but the name was preserved.
The highest flourishing of crinolines is the 50-60s of the XIX century. By this time they achieve huge sizes.

"Sophia entered, - in a virgin - prostromatic, in a black velvet seal, with Sable Fur."
A. Tolstoy "Peter First".

Summer. Until the XVIII century, the most favorite women's clothing. Long, to the floor, strongly satisfied with the book, this clothes had wide long bell-shaped sleeves that stuck up to half. Susty lower part freely hung. Sillar sewed from expensive monochrome and patterned fabrics, decorated with sewing and stones, a small round fur collar fastened to it. After the reforms of Peter I, the anneton came out of use.

"And how do you go to a road dress! Do not send to an obese grandmother behind her yellow Robron! "

Robron - Comes from French Robe - Dress, Ronde - Round. An old dress on the fitjams (see the explanation below), fashionable in the XVIII century, consisted of two dresses - the upper swing with the loop and the bottom - a little shorter of the top.

"Olga Dmitrievna arrived, finally, and, as was, in White Rotonde, a hat and in Kalosh, entered the office and fell into the chair."
A. Chekhov "Spouse".

Rotunda - Upper women's clothing of Scottish origin, in the form of big pelerin, sleeveless. Entered the fashion in the 40s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the beginning of the 20th century. The name of the rotunda comes from the Latin word ROLUNDUS - Round.

"She was ugly and elood, but with a well-surviving high, a bit full of figure, and simply and well dressed in a spacious light gray sac with a silk sewing on the collar and sleeves."
A. Kuprin "Lenochka".

Sak It has several values. The first is a free female coat. In the Novgorod, Pskov, Kostroma and Smolensk provinces of Sak - women's outerwear on buttons, fitted. We sewed it on your cotton or bored. Young women and girls wore her on holidays.
This type of clothing was distributed in the second half of the XIX century.
The second value is a travel bag.

"Anvian - not the whole: you still promised to me."
A. Ostrovsky "His people will tear."

Salop. - Upper women's clothing in the form of a wide long cape with a peeline, with rosters for hands or with wide sleeves. They were lungs, on the cotton, on the fur. The name comes from the English word SLOP, meaning free, spacious. At the end of the XIX century of the XX century, this clothing came out of fashion.

"Masha: It is necessary to go home ... Where is my hat and talma!"
A. Chekhov "Three sisters".

Talma - Cape that men and women worn in the middle of the XIX century. It was in fashion until the beginning of the 20th century. The name received by the name of the famous French actor Talma, who went in such a cape.

"Having arrived home, grandmother, distinguishing flies from the face and rejecting the fithma, announced the grandfather about his loss ..."
A. Pushkin "Peak Lady".

Fizhma - Frame from a whale diet or IV rod, which was put on the skirt. For the first time appeared in England in the XVIII century and existed until the 80s of the XVIII century. In Russia, Fizhma appeared around 1760.

"From sleep awakens,
Raznoshenko rises,
Morning Zaryawashed.
White Whirincowiping. "
We arena about Alese Popovech.

Fly - scarf, cloth. It was done from the taffeta, the canvas, embroidered with gold silk, was decorated with fringe, brushes. With royal weddings was the gift of the newlywed.

"Do not go so often on the road
In the old-fashioned wind shushun. "
S. Yesenin "Letter to Mother."

Shushun - Vintage Russian clothing type of sundhan, but more closed. In the XV-XVI centuries, Shushun was long, to the floor. Usually, the hanging fake sleeves was sewn.
Shushun also called a short swing sweater, a short-foot coat. Shushun shushun lived until the 20th century.

Men's clothing 3

"A group of old Cossacks with gray beards sat at the window of the old Cossacks with gray beards, in the long historical cutting of Kaftans, called Amiam, was sitting at the two shifted tables at the window.
V. Korolenko "At the Cossacks".

Azes (or oget ). Ancient peasant men's and women's outerwear - wide long caftan, without harvest. We usually sewed from a domain camel cloth (Armenian).

"Not far from the tower, wrapped in Almaviva (Almaviva was then in the Great Fashion)," the figure was visible in which I immediately recognized Tarkov. "
I. Turgenev "Punin and Baburin".

Almaviva - Wide male raincoat. Named by the name of one of the actors of the Boualersche trilogy, Count Almaviva. It was in fashion in the first quarter of the XIX century.

"The brothers finally broke up with the old world, the" Apache "shirts are rarely cleaning their teeth, they are sick with all souls for their native football team ..."
I. Ilf and E. Petrov "1001 days, or a new sheherzade."

Apache - shirt with an open wide gate. It was in fashion since the time of the First World War until the 20s of the XX century. The passion for this fashion was so great that in those years there was even the "Apache" dance. Apache was called declamic groups in Paris (robbers, pimps, etc.). Apasha, wanting to emphasize their independence and disregard for the world of fruits, wore shirts with a wide, free gate, without a tie.

"In the doorway stood a man in the new Armenian, subsidened by the Red Cusha, with a big beard and a clever face, in all signs of the older ..."
I. Turgenev "Calm"

Armenian. In Russia, the Armenik was also called a special wool fabric, which sewed bags for artillery charges, and a merchant caftan, which was worn by small wrap. Armenian is a peasant caftan, unnecessary in the waist, with a straight back, without harvesting, with sleeves, sewn into the direct. In the cold and winter time, Armenian was put on Tulup, fashion or fur coat. The clothes of this cut were worn in many provinces, where she had different names and a small difference. In the Saratov province Chapan, in the Olenetskaya province - Chuya. The Pskov Armya had a collar and narrow challenges, he sobbed a shallow. In the Kazan province - azes and was distinguished from the Pskov Armenian in that he had a narrow sledge collar, which was covered with another material, more often than plis.

"He was dressed with a babbed landlord, the visitor of the equestrian fairs, in the motley, rather salted Arohaluk, who had a ribbed silk tie, a vest with copper buttons and gray pantalons with huge crops, from which the tips of unclean boots were barely peeking out."
I. Turgenev "Peter Petrovich Karataev"

Arhaluk. - Clothes, similar to a routine of colored wool or silk fabric, more often with a striped, fastened on hooks.

Men's clothing (continued) 4

"- Volodya! Volodya! Ivina! - I shouted to see in the window of three boys in blue bekes with beaver collars. "
L. Tolstoy "Childhood".

Bekesha - Upper men's clothing, in waist, with fees and incision from behind. Made on fur or on cotton with a fur or velvet collar. The name "Bekesh" is due to the name of the Hungarian commander of the XVI century Caspar Bekesha, the leader of the Hungarian infantry, the participant of the wars who led Stefan Batorius. In the Soviet troops, Bekesha was used in the uniform of the highest commander since 1926.

"The hand convulsively reached into the pocket of the officer Halifer."
I. Kremlin "Bolsheviks".

Galife - Pants, narrow in the top and wide in the hips. Named by the name of the French General Galife (1830-1909), on the indication of which the French cavalries were equipped with a special cut pants. Red Halifer was awarded the fighters of the Red Army, especially distinguished in battles during the revolution and civil war.

"Hussar! You are cheerful and careless,
Nading your red Doloman. "
M. Lermontov "Hussar".

Dolman , or duluman (Hungarian Word), - Gusar Mundir, whose characteristic sign - breasts embroidered with cord, as well as spine, sleeves and neck. In the XVII century, Doloman was introduced in the troops of Western Europe. In the Russian army, Doloman appeared in 1741, with the establishment of the hussar regiments. For its almost half-time existence, he changed cut several times, the number of chest stripes (from five to twenty), as well as the number and form of buttons. In 1917, with the abolition of the hussar regiments, the wearing of Dolomans was canceled.

"Leave it: before dawn, early,
I will carry it under the pepach
And put on the crossroads. "
A. Pushkin "Stone Guest".

Thanel - Wide long raincoat. Sewed it out of mild matter. Thuchal was known in ancient Russia in the XI century.

"We removed the uniforms, stayed in some Camzoles and exposed swords."
A. Pushkin "Captain's daughter".

Camisole - Long vest, worn under the cafetan on top of the shirt. He appeared in the XVII century and had sleeves. In the second half of the XVII century, Camcol acquires a look of long vest. A hundred years later, under the influence of English fashion, Camzole is shortened and turns into a short vest.

"The warm winter casing was in the sleeve, and Sweat Grared lied with him, like from the bucket."
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

Casing - Ancient Russian clothing, known since the time of Kievan Rus. Kaftan's genus, chipped by fur, decorated with pearls and lace. We wore it over Zipun. One of the first references to the casing in the literature is in the "Word about the regiment of Igor". In Ukraine, cakes called Tulups from sheepskin.

"Peter is a reception for the princess yard and that slowing down against him with the Seine servants of the prince of WSI in Black Mentili."
Chronicle, Ipatiev List. 1152

Mint (Mint) - Vintage road autumn or winterwear, known in Russia from the XI century. Looks like a raincoat. As a rule, he was cloudy. Were wearing rich landing people in the Kiev, Novgorod and Galitsky Principles. Blackmaker was worn by monks and secular people during mourning. In the XVIII century, the ball still existed as a monastic robe.

"The month played on the cufflinks of his single-order."

Single Order - Vintage Russian men's and women's clothing, cloak without lining (in one row). Hence her name. Wash on the side of the cafetan or zipun. Hedgeted in Russia to Petrovskoy reform.

"Sunny my red! - he cried, granting the floors of the royal oxhabny ... "
A. Tolstoy "Prince Silver".

Okheng. - Vintage Russian clothing until the XVIII century: Wide, long-range, like a single-order, with long hanging sleeves, in the wings of which were rosters for hands. For beauty, the sleeves were tied on his back. Okhen had a large quadrangular collar.

"What is the stunning look?
Cylinder on the back.
Pants - saw.
Palmerston buttoned tightly. "
V. Mayakovsky "The next day".

Palmerston - Special cut coat, it fell tightly in the waist. The name comes on behalf of the English diplomat Lord Palmerston (1784-1865), which wore such a coat.

"Prince Ippolit hurriedly put on his recedingot, which he has in a new way, was longer than heels."
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

Redingot - Outerwear type coat (from the English riding coat - a coat for riding a horse). In England, a special long-grade caftan was used with horseback riding, fastened to the waist. In the second half of the XVIII century, this form of clothing has moved to Europe and Russia.

"He is slightly tall, there is a sweatshirt from paper hooks, sandals, blue socks."
Yu. Oleshi "Cherry bone".

hoody - Wide long men's blouse in a fold and a belt. Lion Nikolayevich Tolstoy wore such blouse, such shoes began to be in mind. Hence the name "Sweatshirt". Fashion for sweatshirts continued until the 30s of the XX century.

"Nicholas Muravyov, who was near Kutuzov, saw that the calm-calm was calmly, fat, old general in a simple short surpetuka and scarf over his shoulder ... "
N. Zadonsky "Mountains and Stars".

Sutuk - Men's double bed clothes. The look of a long jacket sliced \u200b\u200bin the waist, entered the fashion in England at the end of the XVIII century, spread throughout Western Europe and Russia as outerwear, then as a daily costume. Sirtuches were uniforms - military, departmental and civilians.

"Nikita Zotov stood in front of her Eastovo and straight, as in the church, is a combed, clean, soft boots, in the dark from the subtle cloth of Ferianzi."
A. Tolstoy "Peter First".

Cherryaz - Old upper swing long clothing with long sleeves, extended in Russia in the XV-XVII centuries. This is a parade caftan without a collar. Sewed on lining or fur. Front was a fastener on buttons and long loops. Decorated the calf by all sorts of stripes. Posad people and small merchants put on a calorie right on the shirt.

Shoes, hats, bags, etc. 5

"The bottle, rising a little higher ankle, were chopped by a variety of lace and so wide that the lace was placed in them like flowers in a vase."
Alfred de Vinyi "Saint-Mar".

Bottors - Cavalry high boots with wide conversion. In France, in the XVII century were the subject of special scope. They were wore knees lowered lower, and wide races were decorated with lace.

"All soldiers had broad fur headphones, gray gloves and closing shoes closing shoes."
S. Dikovsky "Patriots".

Leggings - Overhead of the top, covering the leg from the foot to the knee. They made them of leather, suede, cloth, with a clasp on a side. In the Louvre there is a bas-relief of the V century BC, with the image of Hermes, Eurydika and Orpheus, on the legs of which "first" hammashi. They wore them and ancient Romans. Gladiatrators put on a hammashi only on the right leg, since the left was protected by a bronze petrol.
In the XVII-XVIII centuries, a single uniform was introduced. Clothes of soldiers were then caftan (justocard), Camzole (long vest), short pants - Culota and Hamashi. But at the beginning of the XIX century, long pantalons and leggings began to wear instead of the cabin. Gamashi began to do short. In this form, they are preserved in a civil costume and in some armies.

"A man in the walkrs, pressed against the mouth of the scarf, smoked in dust on the road, looking for a shot down pens."

Gaiters - The same as Gamashi. They closed the leg from the foot to the knee or ankle. They were continued to wear in the middle of the thirties of our century. Now the leggings are again in fashion. They make knitted, often in a bright strip, with ornament and embroidery. High to the knees, leggings from rigid skin got the name of krag.

"Camera fiction were still more elegant - in white leggings, lacquered high boots and with swords on the ancient golden flavors. "
A. Ignatiev "Fifty years in the ranks".

Leggings - Tightly fitting pants made of deer skin or rude suede. Before putting on, they were wetted with water and tensioned with wet. At the beginning of the last century, the leggings were part of the military form of some regiments in Russia. As the frontal form has been preserved until 1917.

"One of Makhnovtsev the wind demolished the straw cangery."
K. Paust "Tale of Life."

Boater - Hat made of rigid and large straws with flat tulle and straight fields. It appeared in the late 1980s of the XIX century and was fashionable until the 30s of our century. The famous French chanson Maurice Chevalier always performed on the canoes. In the 90s of the last century, the canium worn and women.
At the beginning of the XIX century, a favorite female headdress was the so-called "kibita" - a hat with a small tulley and fields in the form of a big visor. The name happened from the similarity of the outlines of the hat with the covered cart.


"... Auguste Lafarge, blonde handsome, who served as the main clerk at one Parisian notary. Carrick wore with thirty six pellery ... "
A. Morua "Three Dumas".

At the end of the XVIII century, Fashion comes from England to a free two-breasted coat with several peelers covering shoulders, -. It was usually worn by young shchegoli. Therefore, the number of pellery depended on the taste of each. Women began to wear Carric from about the first decade of the XIX century.

"She took out of the huge Ridiculya yakhontary earrings and, giving them the birthday and shining and dodged Natasha, immediately turned away from her ..."
L. Tolstoy "War and Peace".

At the end of the XVIII - early XIX century, narrow out of thin and transparent dress tissues without internal pockets, in which women usually kept different toilet trivia. Dame handbags appeared. At first they were on the side of a special bandy. Then they began to do in the form of a basket or bag. Such handbags were called "Retikulum" from the Latin Reticulum (wicker grid). In a joke, the reticulus began to call from the French ridicule - funny. Under this name, the lady's handbag was in everyday life in all European countries. They made ridiculi from silk, velvet, cloth and other materials, decorated with embroidery, appliqué.

Costume Details, Bottom Dress 6

"A simple white raincoat will go on the king, fastened on the right shoulder and on the left side by two Egyptian agraves from green gold, in the form of curled crocodiles - the symbol of the God of Sebakh."
A. Kubrin "Sullaif."

Agraf - Clasp (from French L "Agrafe - clasp, hook). In the ancient time a clasp in the form of a hook, fixed for the ring, was called a phbula, (Latin). Agrafs were made of expensive metals. The Byzantine has different luxury.

"... the daughter of the governor boldly approached him, put his brilliant diadem on his head, hung her earrings on his lips and threw a ripped transparent shemetake with festons, embroidered gold on him.
N. Gogol "Taras Bulba".

Chemisette - Breast insert in women's dresses. For the first time appeared in the XVI century in Venice, when they began to sew dresses with a very open bodice. Italy spread to Spain and France. They made a shemodest from expensive fabrics and richly decorated. In the early fifties of the XIX century, women's dresses were sewed with double sleeves. Upper - from the same fabric as the bodice, and the lower - from the tissue of the shemodesty. In elegant dresses of the shemets were lace or from expensive material. In casual - from batista, peak and other fabrics of cream or white. Sometimes the insert was with a postponed collar.
Another meaning of the chemisket is a female jacket, blouse.

Modest. In ancient Rome, women wore several tunics. The manner to wear at once the top and the bottom dress remained until the end of the XVIII century. In the XVII century, the top dress - Modest (MODESTE, in French modest) was always sewed with a swollen skirt of dense heavy, flayled gold and silver tissues. It was drained from the sides, bonding fasteners-agrafs or bows from the tapes. The skirt had a train, the length of which, as in the Middle Ages, was strictly regulated. (Queen's train - 11 elbows, princesses - 5 elbows, Duchess - 3 elbows. The elbow is approximately 38-46 centimeters.)

Fryripon (La Friponne, from French - Cheating, Budal). Lower dress. They sewed it from the lightweight fabric of another color, no less expensive than on the top dress. They were separated by flocks, assemblies and laces. The most fashionable was finishing from black lace. Modest and Fripon names were only in the XVII century.

"His rengulaments were so wide and so abundantly decorated with laces, that the walker sword seemed inappropriate on their background."
A. And S. Golon "Angelica".

One of the curiosities of the male fashion XVII century were (Rhingraves). This peculiar skirt pants was cumbersome from a number of longitudinal velvet or silk strips embroidered with gold or silver. The strips were climbed on the lining (two broad pants) of another color. Sometimes instead of the strips, the skirt fell by folds. The bottom ended with a fringe from the ribbons in the form of loops, laid one on the other, or rolling, or embroidered border. On the sides of the Rhigrava, decorated with bunches of ribbons - the most fashionable decoration of the seventeenth century. All this was put on the top pants (O-de-Hosse) so that their lace ruffles (canons) were visible. There are several types of rengulation. In Spain, they had a clear silhouette - somewhat smooth, seeded at the bottom of the poles. In England, Rangvayov appeared in 1660 and were longer than in France, where they were worn from 1652.
Who is the author of so unprecedented outfit? Some attribute to his Dutch Ambassador in Paris Rangraf von Salm-Nevlyu, allegedly surprised by the Paris. But F. Bush in the book "History of Costume" writes that Salm-Neville did little on fashion issues, and Eduard Palatina, known at the time, known at the time by his eccentrics and extravagant toilets, abundance of ribbons and lace believes.
Fashion on Rhngverava corresponded to the dominant then Barochko style and lasted until the seventies.

National costume of some nations living in Russia

Traditional clothing Kyrgyz 7

"She put on a simple dress, but on top of him embroidered patterns of Bendemchi, her hands were decorated with inexpensive bracelets and rings, in Turquoise earrings' ears."
K. Kayamov "Atay".

Bendemchi - Part of the women's Kyrgyz national costume in the form of a swollen skirt on a wide belt. Such skirts sincecore were worn in many Asian countries. Clothing in the form of a swollen skirt is also known in Ukraine, in Moldova and in the Baltic States. In Kyrgyzstan, women began to wear Bedlemchi over the dress or robe after the birth of the first child. In a nomadic life, such clothes did not constrain movements and protected from the cold. Several species of Bendemchi are known: the swollen skirt is a very selected, stitched from three-four beveled pieces of black velvet. Her edges came up in front. The skirt was decorated with silk embroidery. Another type is a skirt without assemblies from a colored velvet or from bright semi-holled fabrics. Front floors skirts did not converge on 15 centimeters. The edges were cut by strips of furs, cunits, elders. There were skirts made from sheepskin. Such skirts were worn by the Women of the ICCRIK group in Kyrgyzstan, as well as in the Dzhirgitelsky district of Tajikistan and in the Andijan region of Uzbekistan.

"... a handkerchief is lowered on the shoulders, on the legs of Ichigi and Kausi."
K. Bayalinov "Azhar".

Ichigi. - Soft lightweight boots, male and female. The majority of the peoples of Central Asia are common, as well as the Tatars and the Russian population of Siberia. Ichigi with rubber calories are worn, and leather Kalosh leather (Kaubi, Kavushi, Kabis) put in the old days.

"Ahead of everyone, carelessly having flown on the left side of the saddle, in a white cap, trimmed by black velvet, in Kemente from White Felt, sheltered velvet, mowed tulkubek. "
K. Gantoshev "Kanybek".

Cemente - Wide felt bathrobe. This clothing is mainly cattle breeders: it protects from the cold and rain. In the 19th century, white ornate Kemeni was wearing a wealthy Kyrgyz.

"Our world is created for rich and strong. For the poor and weak, it is crazy, like a raw chamber ... "

Charyk - The view of the boot on the thick sole, which cried wider and longer than the feet, and then fed up and flashed. The top of the top (Kong) crumble separately.

"Forty-two arrows here,
Forty two arrows there
In the cap shooters fly,
Cut brushes from the caps,
Do not touch the shooters themselves. "
From the Kyrgyz epic "Manas".

Cap - This vintage Kyrgyz headdress is still very popular in Kyrgyzstan. In the XIX century, the production of the caps was a female business, and they sold their men. For the manufacture of the cap, the customer handed over a whole fleece of a young lamb, and flew fleece as payment.
The caps sewed from four wedges expanding the book. On the sides of the wedges did not stitched, which allows you to raise or lower the fields, protecting the eyes from the bright sun. The top was decorated with a tassel.
Kyrgyz caps were diverse in the face. The caps of the nobility were with a high tool, the field of the cap was laid in black velvet. Poor Kirghiz, their hats twisted satin, and children's caps decorated with red velvet or red matter.
The type of the cap is ai kolpay - it was without split fields. The felt cap is worn by other peoples of Central Asia. His appearance in Central Asia refers to the XIII century.

"Zura, throwing off his Curmo and drossing the sleeves of the dress, cotton near the burning focus."
K. Kayamov "Atay".

Curmo - Sleeveless, fitted, elongated, sometimes short sleeves and collar rack. It was widespread throughout Kyrgyzstan, has several names and small differences - Camzole (Camzur, Kemamir), more common - Chiptama.

"... slowly dropped squatting, sat so in a fur coat and stepped Malahai, put the back of the wall and bitterly sobbing."
Ch. Aitmatov "Brons of Films".

Malahai - A special kind of headdress, the distinctive feature of which is a long, descending NazalTel, connected to the elongated headphones. It was made of fox fur, less often from fur of a young sheep or a deer, and the top was covered with a cloth.
Malahah also called a wide caftan without a belt.

"... then returned, put on his new Chepken, took from the walls of a mound and ..."
Ch. Aitmatov "Date with the Son."

Chepken - Upper quilted men's clothing of a bathrobe. In the north of Kyrgyzstan, she was sewed on a warm lining and with a deep smell. Master who made cappos were honored. Currently, such clothes are elderly.

"Tebetey's white fur lay behind him on the grass, and he sat simply - in a black cloth chep."
T. Kasimbekov "Broken Sword".

Tebetay - Wested winter headdress, indispensable part of the male Kyrgyz national costume. It has a flat four-wedge-wing tul, and sew it, as a rule, from velvet or cloth, is separated most often with furs or cunits, and in the areas of Tian-Shan - the fur of a black lamb.
Kyzyl tebey - a red hat. She was put on his head when erected to Khanate. In the past, there was a custom: if the race sent the authorities, then his "calling card" was presented by Tebey. The custom is so rooted as in the first years after the revolution, the messenger brought with him tebey.

"Throw her your chapan, I will give you another, silk."
V. Yang "Chingis Khan."

Chapan - Men's and women's long clothing of a bathrobe. Without Chapan, it was considered indecent out of the house. Sew the chapan on the cotton or camel wool with a stente lining. In the old days, the lining was made from the mat - cheap white or stinging cotton fabric. From above, the chapan was covered with velvet, cloth, velvet. Currently, Capans are only older people.
There are several options for this clothing caused by ethnic differences: Naigut Chapan - a wide tunical bathrobe, sleeves with a lastrian, sewn at right angles, Capptama Cappan - cut free, enclosure sleeves with a rounded faith and chapan direct and narrow, with side cuts. Hem and sleeves are usually trimmed with a cord.

"He has raw chocks on his feet ... God is merciful, hundredsmates, crooked chocoi!"
T. Kasimbekov "Broken Sword".

Chokoi. - Chulka-shaped shoes from raw skin. She crumbled from one piece. The upper part of the chocoli reached the knees or slightly lower and stuck not to the end, so the ankle of chocos was fixed with leather straps. Previously they wore shepherds and herds. Now such shoes do not wear. Chokoy Troilt Boots. They were sewed from felt (cats), sometimes sheed for the strength of the skin.

"She hurriedly rose from the place, he pulled out Chip from his pocket, threw back and, filling with silver coins, left the yurt."
A. Tokombayev "The wounded heart".

Cholpu - Decoration for braids from suspension - silver coins attached to a triangular silver plate. This decoration was worn by women, especially those who lived in the area of \u200b\u200bLake Issyk-Kul, in Chui Valley and Tian-Shan. Now Cholp is rarely worn.

"I was introduced into the White Yurt. In her first half, where I stopped, on silk and teddy pillows ... It is important to sacrifted a complete woman in a large silk eneau. "
M. Elebaev "Long Way."

Elechek - Female headdress in the form of turban. In full form, it consists of three parts: a hat with an associator was put on his head, on top of her a small rectangular piece of fabric closing the neck and selected under the chin; On top of all - Chalma from white matter.
Different tribal groups of Kyrgyzstan, the women's Chalma had various forms - from a simple cheating to complex structures, slightly resembling a Russian horned kick.
In Kyrgyzstan, Chalma was greatly distributed.
She was called cakes, but the southern and northern Kyrgyz - Elechek. The same name was also in some groups of the Kazakhs. For the first time, Elechek was put on young, tending her husband to the house, thereby emphasizing her transition to another age group. In the wedding wish, Moduzha said: "Let your White Elechek do not fall from your head." It was the wish of long family happiness. Elechek was wary in winter and summer, without him, it was not customary to leave the yurt even for water. Only after the revolution, Elechek cease to wear and replace the headscarf.

Traditional Georgian clothes 8

"Tsarevich very painted the Arabic caftan and a pachery caaba tiger."

Caba. - Long men's clothing, which was worn in the eastern, partly of southern Georgia in the XI-XII centuries, noble feudals and courtiers. The feature of the kaba is long, almost to the floor sleeves, stitched down. These sleeves are decorative, they threw them behind the back. The top of kaba by incision on the chest, as well as the collar and the sleeves were squeezed by a black silk cord, from which the bright blue Kant was performed. Over the centuries, Logsa Kaby changed. In later times, Kaba did shorter, below the knees - from silk, cloth, canvas, leather. I wore Kaba no longer know. Women's Caba - Arhaluk - was to the floor.

"The policeman led the young man in Black Cherkysk to the Square, carefully searched him and moved to the side."
K. Lordkpanidze. Gori Tale.

Circassian (Chub) - The upper men's clothing of the peoples of the Caucasus. The view of the swollen caftana in the waist, with assemblies and cutout on the chest, so that Besht (Arhaluk, Volgach) was visible. Enclosure clasp. On the chest - pockets for the Gazeles, in which the powder was stored. Sleeves wide and long. They are worn bent, but during the dances they are released for the whole length.
Over time, Gazyri has lost their importance, they became purely decorative. They were made of expensive wood species, from the bone, decorated with gold and silver. The mandatory affiliation of the Circassian - dagger, as well as a narrow leather belt with overhead plates and silver pendants.
Made a clarity from the local cloth, especially valued the cloth from goat fluff. In the second half of the XIX century, the Circassians began to sew from imported factory material. The most common is black, brown, gray Circassians. The most expensive and elegant were considered white drawings. Until 1917, Cherkesska was an outfit of some kind of troops. During the First World War, instead of Circassy and Beshmet, a new type of clothing was introduced - the Bechochochka (by the name invented its tailor). It saved the material. The Bechrakhovka had a closed breast with a collar, and instead of Gazere - ordinary pockets. We rejected the shirt with a Caucasian strap. Later, she began to call the Caucasian shirt. It was very popular in the 20s-30s.

"Near this inscription was carved the figure of a must-minded young man in the Georgian chole."
K. Gamsakhurdia. "Dandy of the Great Master."

Choha (Chuch) - Monastic clothes in ancient Georgia. Subsequently, men's national clothing. It was distributed throughout Georgia and had many options. This swing clothing in the waist, of various lengths, put on her on Arhaluk (Besht). Choi is strongly spilled to the back of the barrel. The side seam was emphasized by a braid or a story. In front of a slightly neglection was sewn pockets for gazeades. Rear from the cutting back was the smallest byte folds or assemblies. Going to work, the front floors of choirs looked at the back at the belt. Unbroken sleeve remained uneasy to about five fingers. Between the side cloves and wedges of the folds left the knife, which coincided with the Archaluk's pocket.

"In one half the dresses hung ... Its kinic bedspreads, the seals, shirts for swimming, dresses for riding."
K. Gamsakhurdia. "David Builder".

Narches - Covered out of light fabric. At first there was a form of an irregular triangle. At the edges of the sequences were cut by lace, leaving without them only an extended end. The seals of older women and mourning were without lace trim. Modern covered square shape.

"George Interested in Shadish Shadi's shades."
K. Gamsakhurdia. "Dandy of the Great Master."

Shadishi - Women's long pants who were worn in an old dress in Kakheti, in Kartli, Imereti and other places. They were sewed from silk of different colors, but preferred all sorts of shades of raspberry. Shedishes, prominent from dresses, richly embroidered with silk or golden thread by plant ornaments with an image of animals. The lower edge was trimmed with gold or silver braid.

"... The girl put on an elegant cape - Katibe, embroidered along and across with colored silk threads."
K. Lordkpanidze. "Tsogi".

Katibi - Ancient top women's clothing to knees from velvet of various colors on a fur or silk lining and with a fur edge along the edges. The main decorations are long unimpressed with almost the entire length of the sleeves and decorative conical buttons of metal or blue enamel coated. The front and the back of sewed searches.
Katibie is also called the elegant skinless.

1 Mouller N. Barej, Stamad, Kanifas // Science and Life, No. 5, 1974. 140-141.
2 Mouller N. Adrienne, Berta and Epanechka // Science and Life, No. 4, 1975. 154-156.
3 Mouller N. Apaash, Almaviva, Sutuk ... // Science and Life, No. 10, 1976. 131.
4 Mouller N. Bekesha, Doloman, Sutuk ... // Science and Life, No. 8, 1977 p. 148-149.
5 Mouller N. Hamashi, Losins, Carrick // Science and Life, No. 2, 1985. 142-143.
6 Mouller N. Agraf, Renghaw, Modest, Freekon // Science and Life, No. 10, 1985. 129-130.
7 Mouller N. Bedemchi ... Cemente ... Elechek ... // Science and Life, № 3, 1982. P. 137-139.
8 Mouller N. Kaba, Narches, Cherkesska, Choha // Science and Life, No. 3, 1989. 92-93.

The old clothes of Russian nobility in their own way in general had similarities with the clothing of low-class people, although he was very different in terms of the quality of the material and finishing. The body fell widespread, which did not reach the knees of a shirt from a simple canvas or silk, looking at the owner's sleep. The elegant shirt, usually red, edges and breasts were embroidered with gold and silks, upstairs fastened with silver or gold buttons a richly decorated collar (it was called "necklace").

In simple, cheap shubs, the buttons were copper or replaced by cufflinks with loops. The shirt was produced on top of the exhaust dresses. There were short ports or pants without a cut on her legs, but with a node that allowed to pull or expand them in the belt at will, and with pockets (zepy). Pants sewed from taffeta, silk, cloth, as well as from coarse woolen fabric or canvas.

Zipun.

Through the shirt and pants were put on a narrow sleeveless zipoon from silk, taffeta or crash, with a fastened narrow small collar (crushing). Zipun reached his knees and served usually with home clothing.

An ordinary and common type of outerwear, put on Zipun, was a caftan with reached to tide sleeves, which were going to the folds, so that the ends of the sleeves could replace gloves, and in winter serve as a clutch. Front of Kaftan Along the cut on both sides, stripes were made with refusal ties. Material for Kaftan served velvet, atlas, kamka, taffeta, flies (Bukhara paper fabric) or simple crash. In the elegant cafts for a standing collar, sometimes a pearl necklace was attached, and the edges of the sleeves were fastened with gold sewing and pearls: "wrist"; The floors were trimmed with lace, with silver or gold. "TURSE" Kaftans without a collar, which had fasteners only on the left side and the neck, were distinguished in their own way from the "marvel" caftans with interception in the middle and with fasteners on buttons. Among the Kaftans were distinguished by their appointment: dining rooms, driving, rain, "humble" (mourning). Winter cafts, made on the fur, were called "covers."

Sometimes "Ferry" (Ferrence) was put on Zipun, which was an upper clothes without a gate, reaching the ankles, with long, squeezing with her wrist; It was fastened in front of buttons or ties. Winter Cheriazi was made on the fur, and summer - on a simple lining. In winter, a sleeveless fermenti was put on the caftan. The elegant ferry sewed from velvet, satin, taffeta, kami, cloth and decorated with silver lace.

Okheng.

To make-up clothes, which was put on when leaving the house, belonged to the one-order, Okhaben, a fear, YAPAPA, a fur coat, and others.

Single Order

Opashen

One-order - wide long-range clothing without a gate, with long sleeves, with stripes and buttons or ties, - usually made from cloth and other woolen fabrics; In the fall and in bad weather, it was carried in the sleeves and a Vnakid. Okhegna was like a single-order, but he had a postponed collar, descended on his back, and the long sleeves were folded back and under them there were cutters for hands, as in the one-order. Simple Ohaben seated from Sukna, Mukhoyar, and an elegant - from velvet, writing, Kami, Parcers, decorated with stripes and fastened with buttons. The fence in your own way behind was somewhat longer than in front, and the sleeves were frightened to the wrist. Outbreaks sewed from velvet, satin, obiar, kami, decorated with laces, stripes, fastened by means of buttons and loops with brushes. Outpiece was worn and without a belt ("Woven") and Vnakid. The sleeveless YAPAPAN (EPANCH) was a raincoat that was put on bad weather. Road yapan from coarse cloth or camel wool was different from elegant yapanca from a good matter, a furred fur.

Cherryaz

Fur coat was considered the most elegant clothing. She was not only put on, leaving for the frost, but the custom allowed the owners to sit in fur coats even during the reception of guests. Simple fur coats were made from sheepskin or on a hare fur, there were kuns and squirrels higher in quality; Noble and rich people had fur coats on Sable, Fox, Bobrov or Mornostaev Fur. The fur coats were covered with cloth, taffeta, atlas, velvet, writing or simple crash, decorated with pearls, stripes and fastened with buttons with loops or long laces with brushes, at the end. "Russian" fur coats had a postponed fur collar. The "Polish" fur coats sewed with a narrow gate, with fur clads and fastened from the neck only a disconnect (double metal butt).

Terlik

For the firmware of men's clothing, overseas imported matter was often used, and bright colors were preferred, especially "cherry" (crimson). The most elegant was considered colorwear, which was worn in solemn incidents. Clothes, embroidered gold, could only wear a boyars and mercenary people. The stripes were always made from the matter of another color than the clothes itself, and the rich people were decorated with pearls and precious stones. Simple clothing is based on tin or silk buttons. Walking without a belt was considered indecent; You had a rich belt and reached sometimes in the length of several Arshin.

Boots and Bashmak

As for the shoes, the cheapest was Napti from Berriest or Lyk and shoes, gluing from the vine bruh; On wrestling was used on a piece of canvas or other fabrics. In the wealthy environment, shoes, chobs and characters (Ichegi) from Yufti or Safyan, most often red and yellow, served as shoes.

The chosen was like a deep shoe with a high heel and bent up the sharp toe. Elegant shoes and chobs sewed from the atlas and velvet of different colors, decorated with an embroidery of silk and gold and silver threads, humiliated pearls. Elegant boots were shoes for nobility, made from colored leather and Safian, and later - from velvet and satin; The soles were shuffled with silver nails, and high heels - silver horseshoe. Ichettags were soft saffiana boots.

With elegant shoes, woolen or silk stockings were put on their feet.

Caftan with a collar-goat

Russian caps were diverse, and their shape had its meaning to everyday life. The head of the head was covered with a taffie, a small hat made from Safyan, satin, velvet or brocade, sometimes richly decorated. A widespread hat was a cap with a longitudinal cut in front and rear. Less wealthy people wore cloudy and felt caps; In winter, they were beaten by a cheap fur. The elegant caps were made by the White Atlas. Boyars, nobles and devils in ordinary days put on low caps of quadrangular shape with "okol" around the cap from fur of black and brown foxes, sable or beaver; In winter, such caps were shuffled with fur. Only the princes and boyars had the right to wear high "hilarious" hats from expensive fur (taken from the throat beast) with a cloud riding; In their form, they are somewhat expanded up. In solemn cases, the boyars were on themselves and tafy, and the cap, and the gorge hat. The handkerchief was taken to be stored in the header, which, being visiting, was kept in their hands.

In winter cold, the hands warmed fur mittens, which were covered with simple skin, safyan, cloth, atlas, velvet. "Cold" mittens knitted from wool or silk. The wrists from the elegant mittens were embroidered with silk, gold, humiliated pearls and precious stones.

As an decoration, noble and rich people were worn in the ear earring, and on the neck - a silver or gold chain with a cross, on the fingers - robust with diamonds, yachons, emeralds; On some perrsts, personal seals were made.

Women's coats

To wear with you, weapons were allowed only to nobles and military people; Posad people and peasants it was forbidden. According to custom, all men, without the difference in their social position, came out of the house, having a staff in their hands.

Some women's clothing were similar to men. Women wore a long shirt of white or red, with long sleeves, embroidered and decorated wrists. On top of the shirt was put on the ledge - the lightweight, reaching the widespread clothes with long and very wide sleeves ("smelters"), which were decorated with embroidery and pearls. The seals sewed from Kama, Atlas, Uniaari, taffeta of different colors, but the Chervelhanta was especially valued; The side was cut, which was fastened to the neck.

The necklace was fed to the collar necklace in the form of braid, usually black, embroidered with gold and pearls.

The top women's clothing served a long cloth lap, which had a long row of buttons - tin, silver or gold. Under long sleeves, beethed under the arms of the rosets for hands, the neck was fasted a wide round fur collar, covered her chest and shoulders. The hem and the beaches were decorated with embroidered braid. A long sundress was widespread with sleeves or sleeveless, with prugis; The incision in the front was fastened from top to bottom buttons. The Sarafan was put on a telogray, which had the sleeves to the wrist; This clothing was sewn from satin, taffeta, obiar, altabasa (zolotone or silver fabric), Baiberc (twisted silk). Warm telogrees have shuffled themselves or sable fur.

Shuba

For women's fur coats, various fur was used: a cuckor, sable, fox, ermine and cheaper - protein, hare. The fur coats were covered with cloth or silk matters of different colors. In the XVI century, women's fur coats were taken to sew, but in the XVII century they began to cover with colored fabrics. A front of the cut, with stripes on the sides, fastened with buttons and focused on the embedded pattern. The collar lying around the neck (necklace) was made from another fur than a fur coat; For example, with a fur coat - from black and brown fox. The decorations on the sleeves could be removed and kept in the family as hereditary value.

Non-mean women in solemn cases worked on their clothes to engage, that is, a sleeveless cape of the caviar, from the zallery, sober or silk matter, rich in the pearls and precious stones.

On the head, the married woman wore "hairbags" in the form of a small hat, which in rich women was made of zero or silk matter with decorations on her. Remove the hair and "wrapper" a woman, according to the concepts of the XVI-XVII centuries, meant a great disaccier to a woman. Above the hairless head was covered with a white scarf (remotion), the ends of which decorated with pearls were tied under the chin. When leaving the house, the married women put on "Kiku", surrounding the head in the form of a wide ribbon, the ends of which were connected on the back of the head; The top was covered with colored cloth; Front part - Warehouse - richly decorated with pearls and precious stones; Waving could be separated or attached to another head fault, looking at the need. Front to the kik was suspended to the shoulders pearl threads (lishes), four or six on each side. Lucky from the house, the women over the ulus put on the hat with the fields and with a decorating red cords or a black velvet hat with a fur torn.

Kokoshnik served as a headdress and women and girls. He had the appearance of Opala or Werera attached to the Hairdry. Kokoshnik Waving embroidered with gold, pearl or multicolored silk and beads.

Happers

The girls wore the crowns on the heads, to which pearl or bead pendants (rows) were attached with precious stones. The girl's crown always left the hair outdoor, which was a symbol of the virility. To winter, girls from rich families sewed high sables or beaver caps ("CBUNTS") with silk riding, from under which the loose hair or spit was descended on her back with red ribbons. Girls from a poor families wore bandages, which were frightened from behind and dropped on her back long ends.

Women and girls of all segments of the population decorated themselves with earrings that were diverse: copper, silver, gold, with yachons, emeralds, "sparks" (small pebbles). Earrings from solid gems were rare. Hand decoration served bracelets with pearls and stones, and on the fingers - rings and rings, gold and silver, with small pearls.

The rich cervical decoration of women and girls was monisto, consisting of precious stones, gold and silver plaques, pearls, grenades; A number of small cross were suspended in Starin to Monist.

Moscow women loved the decorations and were famous for pleasant outfacities, but to be considered beautiful, according to the Moscow people of the XVI-XVII centuries, it was necessary to be an antique, lush woman, virtued and painted. Sleeping thin mill, the grace of a young girl in the eyes of the then beauty lovers had little price.

According to the description of oleia, Russian women had an average height, slender addition, were gentle face; Urban residents all rustled, eyebrows and eyelashes tinted with black or brown paint. This custom is so rooted that when the wife of the Moscow Velmazby Prince, Ivan Borisovich Cherkasov, his beauty, did not want to rummage, then his wife's wives convinced her not to neglect their usual land, do not disappear and achieved the fact that this beautiful woman It was forced to give up and apply a blush.

Although compared with the rich noble people, the clothes of "black" landed people and peasants were easier and less elegant, nevertheless, in this environment, rich outfits were encountered, which accumulated from generation to generation. Clothing usually sewed at home. And the coolest of old-style clothes - without a waist, in the form of a robe - did it suitable for many.

Men's peasant clothing

The most common costume of the peasants was Russian caftan. The differences between Western European caftan from Russian has already been spoken at the beginning of this chapter. It remains to add that the peasant caftan was distinguished by a great variety. There was a two-breasted cut for him, long floors and sleeves, covered with home chest. A short caftan was called a half-cup or semi-confusion. Ukrainian Poloxfathan is called a scroll, this word can often be found in Gogol. Kaftans are most often gray or blue and sewed from a cheap material of the nanny - coarse cotton fabric or canvas - flax fabric of handicraft dressing. We were prey to the caftan, as a rule, the cutter - a long piece of fabric usually another color, butched caftan with hooks on the left side.
The whole wardrobe of Russian caftanes takes place in front of us in classical literature. We see them on men, cuzzles, breasts, merchants, kucherach, janitor, occasionally even on the provincial landowners ("Hunter's Notes" Turgenev).

What was the first caftan, with whom we met shortly after learned to read, is the famous "Trishkin Kaftan" at Krylov? Tryka was clearly poor, the poor man, otherwise it would hardly be possible to repaint his kaltan himself. It became about easy Russian caftana. Not at all - there were Falds on Trishkina Kaftan, which the peasant caftan never had. Consequently, Trishka is reproduced by the "German caftan" presented to him by Barin. And it's not by chance that in this connection, the wings compare the length of the converted to the Kaphtan with a length of Camcol - also typically noble clothes.

It is curious that for poorly educated women, all the clothes, put on the sleeves, seeing the caftan. They did not know other words. Gogol Svaha calls Kaftan Frak Podskolovin ("Marriage"), a box - Frak Chichikov ("Dead Souls").

A variety of caftan was a subdeem. The best characteristic of her gave a brilliant connoisseur of Russian life Dramaturgorg A.N. Ostrovsky in the letter Artist Bourdinina: "If you call the fashionable caftan with assemblies from behind, which is fastened on one side of the hooks, then it is necessary to be dynamic and Peter". We are talking about the costumes of the characters of the comedy "Forest" - the merchant and his son.
The fashion was considered a more prudent robe than a simple caftan. Sleeveless flutters, overwhelming, wear wealthy yampers. Wearing a fit and rich merchants, and for the sake of "caregot", some nobles, for example, Konstantin Levin in his village ("Anna Karenina"). It is curious that, obeying fashion, like a russian national suit, a little grayer in the same novel sewed "Assembly,"

Siberian was called a short caftan, usually blue, stitched into the waist, without a cut from behind and with a low stand collar. Siberians wore shopkeepers and merchants and, as evidenced by Dostoevsky in "Notes from the Dead House", started some of the arrestants.

Azes are a type of caftana. He sewed from a thin fabric and rushed only in the summer.

The upper clothes of peasants (not only men, but also women) served Armenian - also a type of caftana, stitched from factory matter - thick cloth or coarse wool. Rich Armenians were distinguished from camel wool. It was a wide, long-cut robe, resembling a bathrobe. Dark Armenian wore Turgenevsky "Kasyan with a beautiful sword." Armenians we often see on Nekrasovsky men. The poem of Nekrasov "Vlas" begins as follows: "In an open-gate Armenia, / with a naked head, / slowly passes the city / Uncle Vlas - the old man's gray". But what does Nekrasovsky peasants look like, waiting "at the front entrance": "Tanned faces and hands, / Armouistribistly thin on the shoulders, / on the Kotomka on the backs of bent, / cross on the neck and blood on the legs ...." Turgenevsky Gerasim, performing the will of the Baryni, "covered the Mum's as his heavy Armenian".

Armenians often wore daishers, putting them in winter over the serpent. Hero of the story of L. Tolstoy "Polykushka" goes for money to the city "In Armenia and Shub".
Much primitively, Armenian was Zipun, who was sewed out of coarse, usually household cloth, without a collar, with welded floors. Seeing today Zipun, we would say: "Which Balahon". "Neither Cola nor the courtyard, / Zipun is the whole area," read in the poem Koltsov about a poor man.

Zipun was a kind of peasant coat that protects from the journey and bad weather. Worn him and women. Zipun was perceived as a symbol of poverty. No wonder Drunk Tailor Merkulov in the story of Chekhov "Captain Mundir", praising by the former high-ranking customers, exclaims: "Let's better die than zipuani sewing! "
In the last issue of his "writer's diary" Dostoevsky called for: "We are listening to gray zipunov, something they will say", meaning poor, labor people.
A variety of kaftan was a Chujka - a long cloth-cutting caftan. Most often, the chuke could be seen on merchants and breastners - innovatives, master, merchants. At Gorky there is a phrase: "I came to some kind of red-haired man, dressed by trammar, in a chuka and high boots".

In Russian everyday life and in the literature, the word "Chuka" was sometimes used as synecko, that is, the designation of its carrier on an external sign - a non-unclean, ignorant person. In the poem of Mayakovsky "Good!" There are lines: "Salop says Chuke, Chujka Salopu". Here, Chujka and Salop - Synonyms of Castorous Outows.
Household caftan from a coarse unpacked cloth was called Sermy. In the story of Chekhov "Swirl" depicts an old shepherd in Sermyag. From here, the epithet is a member, referring to the backward and poor old Russia - semi-member rus.

The historians of the Russian costume note that there were no strictly defined, permanent names for peasant clothes. Much depended on local govors. Some identical clothing items in different dialects were called differently, in other cases in one word in various places were called various items. This is confirmed by Russian classical literature, where the concepts of "caftan", "Armyak", "azes", "Zipong" and others are often mixed, sometimes even at the same author. However, the most common, common characteristics of these types of clothing We found our duty to bring.

From the peasant headdresses only recently disappeared the card, who had certainly shakes and the visor, most often dark color, in other words - a non-phrase cap. The Kartuz, which appeared in Russia at the beginning of the XIX century, wore Men of all classes, first the landowners, then the frontier and peasants. Sometimes the cards were warm, with headphones. Manilov ("Dead Souls") appears "in the heat card with ears". In Insarone ("On the eve of Turgenev)" Strange, Eared Kartuz ". Nikolai Kirsanov and Yevgeny Bazarov ("Fathers and Children" of Turgenev) go to the minutes. "Worn Cartuz" - on Eugene, hero of the "copper rider" Pushkin. In the warm Covers travels. Sometimes the Cartus was also called shaped cap, even officers: Bunin, for example, instead of the word "forage" used "Kartuz".
The nobles had a special, shaped cap with a red shaker.

Here you need to warn the reader: the word "cardhouse" in the old days had another meaning. When Khlestakov orders the master to see in the Kartuze, whether there is no tobacco, it's about, of course, not about the headdress, but about the bag for tobacco, a hand.

A simple labor person, in particular, washes, wore high, rounded hats, nicknamed with ginneviks - in the similarity of the form with a popular cake baked from buckwheat flour at that time. The slab was dismissively called any peasant hat. In the poem of Nekrasov "Who lives in Russia" there are lines: "Look, where the peasant slips". At the Fair, the men left their headquarters in pledge to redeem later.

There were no special changes in the names of the shoes. Low shoes, both men's and women, in the old days called shoes, the shoes appeared later, not differing from the shoes by anything, but they made their debut in the female: on the foot of the heroes of Turgenev, Goncharov, L. Tolstoy was a boot, not a shoe, As we say today. By the way, shoes, starting from the 1850s, actively crowded the boots almost indispensable for men. Particularly thin, expensive leather for boots and other shoes was called the grout (from the calf skin less than one-year age) and the opaikova - from the calf skura, which has not yet switched to herbal food.

Especially silent considered boots with a set (or assemblies) - small folds on the tops.

Another forty years ago, many men wore stones on the legs - shoes with hooks for winding shoelaces. In this sentence, we meet this word at Gorky and Bunin. But already at the beginning of the novel of Dostoevsky "Idiot" we will learn about Prince Myshkin: "On my feet there were thick-cutting shoes with shitibli - everything is not in Russian." Modern reader will conclusted: not only not in Russian, but also not in human at all: two pairs of shoes on one person? However, during the time of Dostoevsky, the stages meant the same thing that leggings - warm covers worn over shoes. This Western novelty causes poisonous comments of Rogozhin and even a slander epigram on Myshkin in the press: "Returning in the Siberian Ribbents, / Million inheritance took."

Women's peasant clothing

Rustic women's clothing Icestari served as a sundress - a long sleeveless dress with a shoe and a belt. Before the attack of Pugachevtsev on the Belogorsk Fortress ("Captain's daughter" Pushkin), her commandant says to his wife: "If you have time, put on Masha Sarafan". The detail, the modern reader is not noticeable, but significant: the commandant expects that in rustic clothes, in case of taking a fortress, the daughter gets lost in the crowd of peasant girls and will not be identified as the nobleman - the captain's daughter.

Married was carried by a panel or a member - domain, usually a striped or checkered woolen skirt, in winter - with a tag. About Kupchikha Bar Clauds Podkhalyuzin in the Comedy of Ostrovsky "His people - Treat!" With contempt, he says that she "a little bit of almost impaired", hinting for its commonarious origin. In the "Resurrection" L. Tolstoy notes that women in the rural church were in the panels. On weekdays, the head was worn on the head - a handkerchief, an accusation around the head, on the holidays Kokoshnik - a rather complicated construction in the form of a semicircular flap is needed by the forehead and from the tulle from behind, or kick (nickname) - a dress with outstanding forward protrusions - "horns."

It was considered a big shame on people with a uncoated head for a married peasant. Hence the "Failure", that is, disgraced, to slander.
The word "Shushun" is the genus of a rustic tag, short sweaters or fur coats, memorable to us on the popular "letter of the mother" S. A. Yesenin. But it is found in the literature a lot before, in Arape Peter the Great "Pushkin.

Fabrics

Their diversity was great, and fashion and industry introduced all new, forcing the old one. Let us explain in vocabulary only those names that are most often found in literary works, remaining incomprehensible to us.
Alexanderka, or Xandrack, - red or pink cotton fabric in white, pink or blue stripe. Waigly used for peasant shoes, believing very elegant.
Barge - light woolen or silk fabric with patterns. From it most often sewed in the past century dresses and blouses.
Baratan, or borcan, - dense woolen fabric. Used for furniture upholstery.
PAPER. Careful with this word! Reading at the classics that someone put on a paper cap or that Gerasim in the "Muma" presented the tan of a paper handkerchief, it should not be understood in a modern sense; "Paper" in the old days meant "cotton".
The headset is spoiled "Grodetour", dense silk fabric.
Garus is a coarse woolen fabric or her cotton-like.
Demicoton - dense cotton fabric.
Drades are thin cloth, literally "Lady".
Sparkling is the same as the imaginary (see below). On Biryukka in the Tourgenev stories of the same name - a disheveled shirt.
Schedule is cheap cotton fabric from multicolored threads. Made at the merchant factory shabby in Yaroslavl. The tissue disappeared, and the word "shabby" - the subsidian, second-rate - remained in the tongue.
Casins is a smooth half-walled fabric.
Camlot is a dense woolen or a half-walled tissue in a strip of coarse generation.
Kanasa - cheap silk fabric.
Kanifas - Cotton striped cotton fabric.
Castor is a grade of thin dense cloth. Used for hats and gloves.
Cashmere is expensive soft and thin wool or semide.
Chinese - smooth cotton fabric, usually blue.
Channel - cheap cotton fabric, monochrome or white.
Colomyanka - Homemade Petray Woolen or Linen Fabric.
Cretone is a dense colored cloth used for furniture upholstery and tall wallpaper.
Lustry - woolen fabric with a gloss.
Muhoyar - Cotton Petray Fabric with Silk or Wool Skin.
Nanka is popular among the peasants cotton dense tissue. By the name of the Chinese city of Nanjing.
The motley is a rough linen or cotton fabric from multicolored threads.
Flas - a dense cotton fabric with a pile, resembling velvet. The word of the same origin as plush. Flas sewed cheap upper clothes and shoes.
Breakfast is a domain canvas from hemp fiber, often used for peasant clothes.
Plunnel is a dense woolen or silk fabric, which sewed ladies shoes.
Sarpinka is a thin cotton fabric into a cage or strip.
Sherryanka - rough cotton cloth rare weaving.
Tarlatan - transparent, lightweight fabric, similar to Kise.
Tarmalama is a dense silk or semi-cylinder fabric from which robes sewed.
Trip - Woolen Fabric Like Velvet.
Full - light silk, from which head, cervical and handkerchiefs are most often made, sometimes the latter therefore were called fules.
Canvas - light linen or cotton fabric.
Chalon is dense wool from which the outerwear sewed.
And in conclusion about some colors.
Adelaide - Dark blue color.
Blanche - bodily color.
Double-facing - with overflow, as if two colors from the front side.
Wild, dicken - light gray.
Masaka - dark red.
Basket (from a spoiled "bouquet") - painted with flowers.
Pussy (from the French "PUCE" - flea) - dark brown.

Let me remind you this version that was represented from myself, as well as The original article is on the site Inforos Link to an article with which this copy is made -