What is cosmetics. Types of cosmetics. Modern makeup products: a breakdown of names
Antisern. This remedy is used to hide dark circles under the eyes. It contains substances that lighten the skin. It can be either liquid in the form - as a cream, and dry - in the form of a stick.
Bolus. Red clay, which is used in the manufacture of blush, lipstick and powder.
Blush. This is the name of a monochromatic blush.
Bronzer or bronzer. A product designed to give the skin a tanned look. The main thing is not to overdo it with the application of this magical remedy. Remember that matte bronzers are used for the entire face, while glitter bronzers are best used for the décolleté area or can be lightly applied to the cheeks.
Veil. Powder, finishing make-up. In addition to fixing makeup, it removes residual sebum, thereby minimizing the risk of an ugly oily sheen on the face.
Glitter. A product that contains glitter and is suitable for evening or holiday make-up.
Hyaluronic acid. It is thanks to her that the skin is firm and elastic. By the way, creams containing this magic acid do not give such a visible effect as injections with hyaluronic acid (for example, mesotherapy). The cream only forms a protective layer that retains moisture. But mesotherapy moisturizes the skin from the inside and fights the hated wrinkles.
Can make-up remover cause wrinkles?
- More details
Kabuki. Large brush in the form of a shaving brush. It is with its help that loose, mineral powder or powder-veil is applied.
Kaolin. White clay, which is used in the manufacture of cleansing masks, mattifying powders and creams. Due to its properties, kaolin absorbs fat and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Corrector. Another name for antisulfur. Also designed to mask skin imperfections. Can be applied directly to imperfect areas. Correctors are of two types. These are lightening ones, which are applied according to the highlighter principle - in the center of the forehead, chin, on the back of the nose), and shading ones - they can emphasize the relief of the face.
Concealer, as well as a concealer and anti-sulfur, perfectly masks skin imperfections. There are different tones, it all depends on what you want to hide - bruises, pimples, freckles, wrinkles, etc. You can apply the product both under the foundation and after.
Luminizer. The composition is similar to glitter, but contains much less glitter. The luminizer has a powdery texture and is designed to give the face, so to speak, sunshine thanks to the brightening effect.
Meteorites. This is a powder in the form of balls or in a compressed form. Its reflective particles help even out skin tone. By the way, balls of different colors are intended for different purposes. For example, pinks give the skin a fresh tone, greens give a radiant look and remove yellowness, white balls act as a highlighter, that is, brighten the skin, and gold balls give a slight shimmer.
Fragrances. They give a pleasant scent to cosmetic products. To date, hypoallergenic fragrances are used in cosmetics in order to avoid adverse reactions.
Primer. In other words, a base or makeup base. It is colorless, and you can also choose a color to match your skin. The good thing about a primer is that it prepares the skin for the application of foundation. Its particles fill in all the irregularities, and the tone falls flat. In addition, it absorbs excess oil, leaving the skin matte and velvety, and the tone can last for a long time. There are also lip and mascara primers. The former allow the lipstick to lie flat and last longer, while the latter add volume.
Softner. The general name for cosmetics that are designed to moisturize the skin. Creams, lotions, serums, balms and more.
Sponge. Special cosmetic sponge for applying makeup. They come in different shapes: round, triangular and square. Thanks to the sponge, the foundation lays down evenly, without sharp transitions and clear boundaries.
Transparent powder. It is a translucent powder that mattifies the skin and is invisible on the skin.
Tonic. A lotion that not only cleanses the skin, but also allows the nutrients of the creams to penetrate deeply under the skin. Often, girls neglect this tool. But in vain! Toners are different: cleansing, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and even whitening.
10 novelties for facial skin care that will prolong youth
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The beauty industry is developing in full swing, and today cosmetics stores offer us a huge selection of products. We'll tell you what's what and what products should be in your cosmetic bag.
This article is for people over 18 years of age.
Have you already turned 18?
Today, a huge number of cosmetic products of various types and textures are presented in online stores and in storefronts. It is becoming more and more difficult to choose a foundation or shadow, because in addition to color, there are many more factors to consider. We decided to figure out which modern tools are worth your attention, and how to choose the right product among many other new products.
Primer - make-up base
Some 5 years ago, we went into a cosmetic store and could see units of tubes with the names "primer" or "makeup base", without really understanding what this miracle remedy was doing. But fortunately, the market is growing as everyone wants long-lasting makeup with perfect skin.
First of all, the primer creates a protective layer on the skin - so it does not allow decorative cosmetics to penetrate deep into the pores. It also evens out the texture of the face, making the skin smoother. With a good makeup base, the complexion becomes even, and the makeup lasts much longer, since the cosmetics are literally fixed on a protective film and will not be absorbed anywhere during the day.
When choosing the right primer, it is important to consider the type of face. For girls with dry or combination skin, the so-called "fluid" is perfect, which has a caring effect and, in addition to moisturizing, evens out the tone of the face. Silicone-based primers are also suitable, which make the skin velvety, with a perfect relief.
But for owners of oily skin, such products may not be suitable, since silicone can clog pores even more. In this case, you should pay attention to matting primers, which include powder particles that have a caring effect. In addition, there are colored bases that fight uneven skin tone in the form of redness or yellow spots.
Many girls, when choosing a foundation, are guided exclusively by skin color. Some are still testing the cream on the back of the hand. As a result, in most cases, the cream is not at all suitable for the face.
First of all, when going to the store for a foundation, check that the skin is clean and moisturized only with a care product. Test the foundation only on the face. Can be applied to the cheekbone or half of the face so that later the difference can be compared to the other side. After applying the product, it is recommended to walk around for a while with the foundation on the face, see how the skin does not react to it: do you feel comfort, does it merge with the skin tone, and is there an effect declared on the package.
There are also times when the color of the foundation can reveal itself in a completely different way on the face. Of course, it is important to consider and be sure to pay attention to what type of person this or that remedy is for. That is why even a professional makeup artist cannot find the perfect foundation for you. After all, only you yourself can “feel” and evaluate the product on your face.
- buy Bourjois Healty mix foundation
- buy Clarins Skin Illision radiance moisturizer
BB or CC cream - it is a care product that effectively evens out the complexion and moisturizes the skin, while hiding imperfections. They also have extra sun protection up to SPF 30.
Paying attention to such funds, you will notice that, unlike the palette of shades of foundation, BB or CC-cream, as a rule, has only 3 shades: light, medium, dark. The fact is that such creams are able to independently adjust to the color changes in the skin. The consistency of BB cream is denser than CC cream, which is why it is great for the winter period.
These are two rather insidious products that are misleading to many. What is the difference? Explaining.
A concealer is a lightweight masking product that has a liquid consistency. It is able to hide pigmentation on the face, that is, bruises under the eyes, redness, light wrinkles.
The corrector is a product that is denser and more viscous in consistency. It helps to mask more serious imperfections: acne, scars, spider veins. Unlike concealer, concealer takes time to melt, or it can be mixed with a moisturizer for your face. Using your fingertips, gently spread the soft corrector to problem areas. Only in this way will he evenly cover the imperfections on the face.
- buy Nars concealer cream
Sculptors and bronzers are brown-toned contouring products. However, they differ significantly in color, structure and application.
The sculptor has a deep cold brown, brown-gray or brown-olive shade, close to the color of the natural shadow on the face, depending on your color type. A bronzer usually mimics a tan. It has both warm brown and peach brown. That is why it must be selected and used with particular care. If you have a light tan, choose colder or translucent bronzers, or vice versa, a warmer, not heavily pigmented sculptor.
The sculptor must be applied under the cheekbone, this is where the shadow passes. It is very important in this part not to overdo it, so as not to create a thick layer of dirt. Also, don't forget to work out the sides of the forehead, giving a little volume to the face. The dry sculptor is applied only to the powdered face, but the cream one can be applied after the foundation.
Bronzer is applied to the protruding parts of the face, in the area between the cheekbone and cheek, giving a translucent tan. Both sculptor and bronzer must be applied with very light movements so as not to overdo it, thereby creating a natural shadow or tan.
- Buy Clarins Light Tanning Powder
Blush is also an integral part of facial sculpting. They go well with the sculptor. They must be applied to the apples of the cheeks with light movements to add volume to the face. With the right choice of colors and high-quality application, a very harmonious transition from a natural shadow to a light blush on the cheeks is obtained.
Despite the fact that the highlighter today is one of the most popular and rapidly developing products on the cosmetic market, many girls still do not understand this tool or are even afraid to use it, because they think they will glow like a disco ball. In fact, with the right highlighter, both in color and texture, the difference is visible in any makeup. No other product, except for the "baked" blush, will give such a fresh and delicate glow to your face.
The highlighter is usually applied to the protruding parts of the face, that is, over the cheekbone, under the eyebrow, on the tip of the nose and on the check mark above the upper lip. It's important not to overdo it in order to get a very delicate sparkle on your face, unless of course you are going to a party.
- buy The Balm highlighter Mary Lou Manizer
If earlier we could observe colored eye makeup exclusively on the catwalks, today it is actively gaining popularity in a daily combination, thereby never ceasing to develop in its performance. In this regard, there is a huge number of shadows and pigments that have a variety of colors. However, it is important to remember that only a good base (in the form of an eye shadow base, cream eyeshadow, soft pencil or kayal) will make your eye makeup look bright and long-lasting. If before applying dry shadows you can completely limit yourself to a high-quality base, then with pigments, especially with glitters, you must not forget about the substrate so that the sparkles do not crumble over your face.
Thank you
Cosmetics classes
All cosmetics fall into two broad categories:- Mass,
- Professional.
- Suite ( or elite),
- Pharmacy,
- Mass market.
Medium category funds - these are well-known and widely available foreign brands that can be bought in almost any store, as well as those that are distributed through the networks.
Pharmacy category includes products that must be prescribed by at least a cosmetologist, and even better by a dermatologist. All the rest of the funds of well-known companies sold in pharmacies, as such, are not medicinal and may well be sold through stores. That is, it is of good quality, but not curative. cosmetics.
Luxury or elite class - These are mainly products manufactured by the largest fashion houses or firms that independently develop new technologies and leading developments in the field of cosmetology. Such funds can be purchased only in large stores, in specialized departments, where you can always get the help of a consultant. The price for such products is high, with about a third of it being paid for the brand. Skin care products in this category can actually help to get rid of some skin problems to some extent.
Professional
Among these products there are those that are intended for home use, and there are those that are created only for salon procedures. Home-use medications are usually supportive.Professional lines are, in practice, remedies that are used by professionals in salons for treatment courses to eliminate certain deficiencies. It should be borne in mind that professional drugs cannot be found on the market.
These funds are created by specialized firms and are sold only to cosmetologists. As a rule, the manufacturer conducts training with cosmetologists on the use of drugs. Professional drugs are fundamentally different from conventional cosmetics, primarily in the content of active ingredients. There are much more of them here. Each professional line includes about six dozen procedures aimed at normalizing the condition of various types of skin and eliminating a variety of disorders. The most in demand among cosmetic services are whitening, oxygen stimulation, contour modeling, peelings to inhibit skin aging, skin care procedures around the eyes that eliminate cellulite, as well as SPA procedures. Often, for the correct use of professional cosmetics, special devices are needed that no one else has at home. In addition, the use of professional cosmetics requires special skills from the doctor. Some procedures are prohibited in the summer, while others in the winter - during the cold season.
Such products are always created in full series, as they involve going through all stages of skin care. The series contains cleansing preparations, toning, caring and protecting for every part of the body.
Each professional line comes with a home care line. These drugs are used at home to consolidate the effects of salon treatments. Preparations for home use are similar in effectiveness to luxury cosmetics for mass use.
There are not very many companies producing professional skin care products and the quality of their products is different. The market for such products is quite narrow, which is used by various types of swindlers. By launching a new brand on the market, they advertise it as professional cosmetics. In fact, it can be a fairly simple line, produced in dubious conditions.
In order not to buy such "professional" cosmetics, you should carefully ask a beautician who will give you comprehensive information. He should also know which exclusive distributor brings the given product into the country. You can study information about it on the Internet, including on the manufacturer's website. If the site does not exist in a foreign language - most likely, you are dealing with fake "professional" cosmetics.
Medical or cosmeceuticals
Medicinal cosmetics are those that contain medicines. In some countries it is called "cosmeceuticals". At the same time, drugs in this category are not considered cosmetics. Medicinal cosmetics include anti-dandruff shampoos, fluoride toothpaste, sunscreens, antiperspirants, and antiperspirants.Problems that can be solved using cosmeceutical products:
- Elimination of cellulite and small fat deposits,
- Normalization of oily skin condition,
- Narrowing of pores,
- Elimination of acne, blackheads,
- Elimination of spider veins,
- Elimination of stretch marks,
- Elimination of minor age-related changes in the face and body,
- Improving complexion,
- Skin whitening,
- Elimination of scars after injuries, burns, operations,
All living organisms and herbs that are used for the production of cosmetic products are specially grown in ecologically clean conditions. Constant control over the quality of components allows to achieve hypoallergenic products. In addition, the amount of active ingredients must be strictly defined.
In most countries of the post-Soviet space, this type of product is not mentioned in any way in the legislation and its sale is not regulated by the state.
Hypoallergenic
Many consumers with allergies are looking for products labeled "hypoallergenic" in stores, but few people know that there are no international regulations for giving cosmetics such a status. Thus, labeling is a decision of the manufacturer itself and is often just an advertising gimmick.According to US law, in the middle of the last century, the term "hypoallergenic" can be assigned to products if testing with volunteers has proven that this cosmetics provokes fewer side effects than others.
But by a court decision, such a decision was canceled. Therefore, now any skin, hair, and nail care product can be called hypoallergenic.
A few decades ago, it was really possible to find something dangerous or poisonous in cosmetics. Today, most body care manufacturers use similar ingredients. In the vast majority of consumers, they cannot cause severe allergic reactions. Therefore, it no longer occurs to anyone to spend money on scientific research proving the hypoallergenicity of their products.
Thus, today this term is another means of promoting your product on the market.
Consumers should be aware that it is impossible to demand from the manufacturer a guarantee of hypoallergenic products. You just need to read the labels carefully and do not use products that contain substances that cause individual intolerance.
As for skin care products labeled "hypoallergenic", these are, most often, professional products or products of the "luxury" category. More responsible manufacturers exclude from products with such labeling: fragrances, stabilizers, dyes and all substances that can cause irritation of sensitive skin. The production of such products is also treated more carefully - this is mandatory sterility. The shelf life of such funds is shorter, and the price is higher.
It is almost impossible to create hypoallergenic decorative cosmetics, since all dyes are synthetic and can cause intolerance in someone. Therefore, the assurances of manufacturers are deception.
People with sensitive skin, allergy sufferers, as well as those suffering from impaired immunity should pay attention to hypoallergenic cosmetics.
When buying any cosmetic product, you should first test your reaction. To do this, a little product is applied to the inside of the elbow and left overnight. If redness or swelling does not appear by the morning, you can safely apply the cream to larger areas.
Natural vegetable. How to choose it?
1. Look at the color first. It should be colorless and not pearlescent. A blue cream or shampoo cannot be natural in the first place. After all, it is clear that there is a dye in it.2. The smell should not be very strong, resemble the smell of herbs or even medicines. Aromatization can be accomplished by introducing essential oils.
3. It cannot contain technical oil ( mineral oil) or silicone, since the former is a product of oil refining.
4. It cannot contain any preservatives. Most often, the shelf life is no more than 12 months. Vitamin can be used as preservatives E , benzoic, salicylic, sorbic acids of vegetable origin or essential oils.
5. When choosing such cosmetics, you should pay attention to the packaging. The wider the neck of the container, the more preservatives are added to the cream.
Allergy sufferers should not use such cosmetics without prior testing, since natural ingredients often cause allergies more than synthetic ones.
Often, the manufacturer introduces an extract of one plant into the composition, supplements it with a mass of chemical components and calls it herbal cosmetics. However, there is more harm from chemical components than benefits from a scanty amount of plants.
Buying herbal cosmetics, you always run a little risk. After all, the composition of the plants from which skin or hair care products are made can change not only from year to year, but even over the course of one season or time of day. It is impossible to take into account the intricacies of the collection and preparation of plant materials in industrial volumes. For cosmetic needs, herbs are collected by random people who are completely indiscriminate in plants. Plants are often grown on plantations using fertilizers. The benefits of such plants are completely questionable. If the product belongs to the mass market category, one should not expect much from the presence of one or another extract, since its amount is negligible.
From the dead sea
The Dead Sea is a huge source of natural minerals. Over the millennia of existence, a layer of sedimentary rocks and salts a hundred meters thick has accumulated on the seabed. The healing qualities of the Dead Sea salt are written in the Bible. The most famous beauties used the minerals of the Dead Sea to prolong their beauty and health.Mineral salts and Dead Sea mud are used as ingredients for face and body skin care. They protect against harmful environmental factors, improve metabolic processes in the skin, help to restore the skin, smooth out fine wrinkles, and give a healthy color.
Today there are hundreds of manufacturers of Dead Sea salt and mud cosmetics. Product prices vary depending on what other components are included in the product. So, the best products consist only of natural ingredients, so their shelf life does not exceed a year.
The range of products is also very large. You can select lines to care for all parts of the body, including hair masks and scrubs for all skin types. There are special lines for men and children.
Mineral
Mineral cosmetics are the latest technology, considered a breakthrough in the field of cosmetology. - It contains no synthetic components and dyes, talc, alcohol, fragrances, preservatives and mineral oils,
- It makes it possible to give a healthy and even complexion to the skin of the face, to protect it from the harmful effects of environmental factors,
- Can be used at any age and with all skin types. Very good for allergy sufferers, as well as those with problem skin,
- Does not clog pores, regulates the natural balance of substances in the skin, relieves inflammation, "adapts" to color and tone,
- Almost 100% hypoallergenic,
- Effective in hot weather, as it removes the oily shine of the skin, is applied once a day and provides a well-groomed look until the evening,
- Protects from harmful UV radiation, preventing skin aging. Reflects the harmful UV spectrum and is a natural protection against adverse environmental factors. Prevents the formation of free radicals
- Due to the fact that it does not include water, microbes do not develop in it and therefore no preservatives are needed,
- Perfectly masks fine wrinkles, moisturizes the skin and prevents the appearance of fine wrinkles,
- One package is enough for a long time, since very little funds are required,
- Allows the skin to breathe, so such cosmetics can not even be washed off at night,
- These drugs are not tested on animals.
- Primer it is necessary that other components fit well on the skin. It evens out the texture of the skin, absorbs excess oil and creates a protective layer between the skin and cosmetics,
- Mineral base - This is an analogue of a foundation or powder, necessary to cover skin imperfections and smooth out the shade. Covers only minor defects ( freckles, dilated blood vessels) to hide more serious defects use concealers... The mineral base does not clog pores, it is practically not felt on the skin and protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation SPF 15,
- Concealer - this component contains the most pigments ( titanium oxide and zinc oxide), so it is best at masking skin imperfections. In this case, it is important to choose the right tone. With the help of a concealer, you can hide acne, large wrinkles, circles under the eyes, age spots,
- Proofreaders - applied under the mineral base. They are also used as concealers to hide blemishes. The color of the corrector is selected depending on which defects need to be hidden. For example, blue is suitable for covering red spider veins, and green is suitable for brown age spots,
- Bronzer Is a powder for modeling contours. The composition of the bronzer resembles a mineral base, darker in tone. Bronzers are lighter to activate accents and darker to hide too voluminous parts of the face.
- Luminizers Is a special type of mineral makeup that is used at the final stage to highlight certain parts of the face and give them a glowing effect. They are applied to the entire face or to certain parts of it,
- Eye shadow, lip gloss, blush, lipstick - all these components of the cosmetic bag are also present in the mineral lines. But their composition is fundamentally different from the usual cosmetics.
Organic
Organic cosmetics is the choice of many show business stars and famous people. The world started talking about this product four decades ago. On the territory of the post-Soviet space, they learned about it only now.The organic fashion has been fueled by research proving the harm of the chemical constituents of creams and other skin care products. In addition, organics are not tested on animals.
Components for organics are produced in environmentally friendly conditions. Most of the ingredients are herbal extracts. According to the assurances of eminent producers, the plants are grown without the use of chemicals.
There is also no chemical treatment in the manufacturing process. There are no preservatives, flavors or colorants in such products. In fairness, it should be said that even such preparations contain a minimum amount of chemicals. Due to them, longer storage is provided.
Interestingly, the jars for such products are also environmentally friendly. They decompose very quickly in the ground. There are also companies that change "used containers" for new products with a surcharge.
All products classified as "organic" are divided into the following types:
- 100% organic. Absolutely all components are of natural origin,
- Cosmetics with organic ingredients. Most of the ingredients are natural, but there is also chemistry. The latter is quite a bit. This can be judged by where in the list of components the synthetic components are located,
- Cosmetics with a minimum amount of synthetic ingredients. Manufacturers try not to include potentially hazardous substances in their products.
- Not very bright packaging that can be recycled
- Lack of color in the product,
- The smell may not even be pleasant
- Cleansing preparations do not produce abundant foam, since they do not contain foaming agents,
- Liquid preparations can separate into layers as there are no emulsifiers. You just need to shake such a bottle before applying the product,
- Avoid contact of cosmetics with the mucous membranes of the eyes, as natural extracts from plants and fruits can cause a burning sensation,
- Each jar must have a complete list of components and a certificate number. When translating this information, there should be no gaps or omissions.
Nanocosmetics
When creating nanocosmetics, scientists set themselves the goal of overcoming the skin barrier and supplying each cell in need with active ingredients that normalize the functions of the skin. The penetration of active substances into the cell can be carried out without the participation of blood or lymph, that is, by a passive method. But for this, the molecules of substances must be very small. According to laboratories, if a molecule is more than 20 nanometers in size, then it is unable to overcome the protective layers of the skin. If the size of the molecules is less than 9 nanometers, then such a molecule independently penetrates through the protective barrier into the skin cells. But the most optimal is a molecule size of about 2 nanometers. In creams and other skin care products from the category of nanocosmetics, the size of particles that are "transport" for biologically active components is less than 2 nanometers.
The nanocapsule, which contains the particles of the active substances of the creams, transports them through the cell membrane and "injects" them into the cell. At the same time, it does not harm the tissues at all. Most manufacturers use carbohydrates, such as sugars, as building materials for nanocapsules. They penetrate the cell and are an additional source of energy for the skin.
The active ingredients can be different, these are amino acids, flavonoids, vitamins, monosugar from herbs and algae and other active substances.
The properties of nanocosmetics are amazing. For example, a toothpaste from this series not only perfectly cleans teeth, but also "cements" cracks and small chips on the teeth. And today it is not a fantasy. There are already millions of tubes of this type of toothpaste sold in Japan. Shampoos, creams for UV protection, lipsticks, hair rinses, antiperspirants and many other cosmetics are produced on the basis of nanotechnology.
But the most serious investments are made by cosmetic companies in the production of anti-aging nanocosmetics. Most of the largest corporations already produce whole series of anti-aging products.
Despite the invasion of nanotechnology in the cosmetics industry, some scientists are worried about the effect of nanoparticles on the human body. After all, it is not yet possible to finally study the mechanism of action. In addition, nanoparticles can penetrate not only into the thickness of the skin, but also deeper, into the internal organs. To date, there is not a single study on whether nanoparticles can accumulate in the tissues and organs of the human body.
According to the manufacturer, nanoparticles penetrate only into the layers of the skin and no deeper, however, in some states ( e.g. if the skin is damaged), nanoparticles can also get into subcutaneous tissues.
American scientists have investigated the effect of titanium oxide on the state of laboratory rodents, since titanium nanooxide is now very often used in anti-UV creams. This substance disrupts the response of cells to the penetration of other substances into them. In addition, the rate of evacuation of active oxygen decreases, which can be harmful to brain tissue. Titanium oxide has the same effect on the fish organism.
More than three hundred studies have focused on nanotechnology in skin care products. But this is only the beginning of the study of this issue.
Many manufacturers of skin care products do not mention that their products contain nanoparticles, so the United States is going to introduce state control over the use of such technologies. There are also organizations that require a complete ban on the release of such products.
Oxygen cosmetics
Such products have been on the market for about ten years. And until now, there are disputes about it among specialists. Oxygen cosmetics are called not because they contain a lot of oxygen, but because they are a way of transporting oxygen to the deep layers of the skin, and carbon dioxide to the upper layers, improving gas exchange in tissues. All products from this market segment are divided into two groups:
1. Means that deliver oxygen to tissues. It is these creams that can be called really oxygen.
2. Oxygen-containing products. These creams contain peroxide compounds. Once on the skin, they turn into oxygen atoms.
There is another product category that is not related to either the first group or the second. However, manufacturers call it "oxygen", since the products contain components that accelerate the metabolism in the cells of the dermis and the production of oxygen from the blood. Thus, the acceleration of metabolic processes and blood flow leads to an increase in the level of oxygen in the skin cells. The same principle can work, for example, by simply rubbing the skin with your fingers until reddening or applying a mustard plaster.
Oxygen lines for home use are produced by well-known companies. These are masks, creams, balms, scrubs, lotions. They can only be applied to cleansed skin, otherwise oxygenation of the skin will not be very effective. For a stronger effect, you need to apply tonics and lotions at the beginning of the day. And the milk can be used before bed. It is best to do a short massage one hour before applying the cream or mask. This activates the movement of lymph and blood and prepares skin cells to receive oxygen.
When using a home oxygen line, it should be borne in mind that everything is fine in moderation, and too high a level of oxygen in the tissues is also not useful.
Salon procedures will be more effective and safer, in which oxygen preparations will also be used only of a professional level.
Black
All products tested on animals are called black cosmetics. Thus, manufacturers save on components for their washing powders, shampoos, creams and other products. Synthetic components are used, which in any case are more dangerous than natural ones.Cons of such products:
- Producers mock animals
- What might work for an animal may not always work for humans.
Dry
The main function of dry cosmetics is to cleanse the skin and activate metabolic processes in all its layers. The composition of dry cosmetics contains only natural ingredients: minerals, salts, clay, dry herbs ground into powder and cereal sprouts. The products cleanse the skin, accelerate cell regeneration. Does not contain any chemical components - everything is 100% natural. Such products look like a powder, which must be diluted with water before use.Depending on the composition, such preparations can cleanse or nourish the skin with biologically active substances, increase elasticity and strengthen the immunity of skin cells.
Products from this series can also be used as detergents, especially since they cleanse the skin at a deeper level than ordinary washcloths and soap. The composition of dry cosmetics includes adsorbents that suck out poisons and toxins from the thickness of the skin, accelerating the exfoliation of dead cells of the epidermis.
The effect of using dry cosmetics:
- Regulation of skin moisture,
- Cleansing all layers of the skin, down to the deepest,
- Inhibition of age-related degenerative processes in the skin, its rejuvenation,
- Increased local immunity.
Gold
The composition of the "golden" cosmetics contains gold ions, which accelerate the transport of biologically active components of the creams into the skin. If you compare such a cream with an ordinary one, it turns out that it is absorbed better and the effect is higher. By themselves, gold ions accelerate many metabolic processes in cells, regeneration, and therefore the effect of other components is more pronounced.
If gold ions are introduced into make-up products, it will lie down better and not crumble for a long time. Some manufacturers inject real 24-karat gold into the eyeshadow or powder, which makes the skin look very pleasing.
The composition of skin care products includes biogold, which is synthesized in the laboratory from plant materials. Interestingly, biogold is not a solid mass, but a jelly-like substance, so it can be combined with any other ingredients without any problems.
Biogold is widely used in quality skin care products made in China. In combination with herbal ingredients and vitamins, such creams and serums effectively fight skin aging.
There is another source of gold molecules - seawater. Preparations with gold particles care for the skin, prevent aging, and protect against ultraviolet radiation.
Ayurvedic
Ayurveda is an ancient Indian doctrine of health preservation. One of the tasks of the teaching is to preserve youth and beauty. Ayurvedic cosmetics are made according to old Indian recipes and contain exclusively natural ingredients. These can be powders from dry plants, fruits, vegetable oils, and even powders made from precious stones and metals.In such preparations, there are no hormones, substances of animal origin, stabilizers and other synthetic components. For longer storage, only food preservatives are used.
The range of Ayurvedic body care products is large: creams, lotions, masks, massage products, pain relievers, figure modeling, hair care.
Hormonal
Skin care products containing hormones are very effective and improve the appearance in a short time. However, there is a very big fly in the ointment in the ointment: hormonal cosmetics have a lot of side effects, for example:- Thinning skin
- The appearance of wrinkles
- The appearance of a vascular network,
- The appearance of facial hair.
The hormonal components of creams can be of two types:
- Synthetic analogs of human hormones,
- Phytohormones are hormone-like substances that resemble hormones.
But synthetic analogs of hormones are really dangerous components. A healthy body produces them exactly as much as needed. The appearance of additional portions of hormones leads to inhibition of the work of the glands that should produce them. Thus, the work of almost all systems and organs is disrupted.
Of course, few manufacturers will warn about the presence of such dangerous additives in their products. Moreover, such additives are prohibited. But the ban is being violated.
How to protect your health?
- If the effect of use is very quick, this, in most cases, indicates the presence of hormones. The only exceptions are lifting drugs, which work for a fairly short time,
- If, after stopping the use of the cream, the appearance of the skin deteriorates sharply - this is a clear sign of the presence of hormones in the creams.
Placental
Skin care products containing placenta extract have been tried for decades. At first, the creams caused many side effects. But more recently, scientists have invented a way to create such products that are absolutely safe for health.Interest in placenta extracts is based on the fact that the hands of professional midwives and midwives do not age for a very long time, the skin remains young and elastic. This is explained by the fact that the placenta contains substances that prevent skin aging. These factors are used in the manufacture of skin care products. These creams are especially suitable for the elderly.
There are no hormones in modern quality placenta products. It was over this question that scientists were struggling for so long: how to leave the placenta extract with all the beneficial properties, depriving it of hormones. Today, this task has been completed, so placental skin care products are safe and officially approved for use.
What components are present in placental creams?
- Peptides required for the production of elastin and collagen,
- Hyaluronic acid, which prevents moisture evaporation,
- Glycosaminoglycans,
- Growth factors,
- Minerals,
- Vitamins,
For the production of such products, placentas obtained from normal childbirth are used. The collection of raw materials and their processing takes place in accordance with certain criteria. Therefore, the raw materials are completely safe. If the placenta of animals is used for creams, it is also processed, excluding the possibility of infection or substances harmful to health.
Hyaluronic
Hyaluronic acid creates a thin moist film on the skin surface, soaking the stratum corneum and preventing moisture from evaporating. Therefore, the use of such products makes the skin softer and softer. Hyaluronic acid creates an “extra moisture” effect that reduces water loss. This substance has the highest ability to bind water molecules in comparison with other moisturizing components ( e.g. compared to sorbitol or glycerin). Humidity and ambient temperature, therefore, does not affect the condition of the skin. This property of hyaluronic acid is successfully used in medicine to accelerate wound healing. It turns out that for early scarring, the wound must be moist, but sterile. It is such an environment that the treatment with a preparation with hyaluronic acid provides.
Today, this component is introduced into products for protection against ultraviolet radiation and environmentally unfavorable factors of the environment, as well as in eyelid gels, lip balms, lipsticks, moisturizers, anti-inflammation preparations and for the treatment of tanned skin. In order for a substance to work, its concentration may not exceed a tenth of a percent! Therefore, the presence of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic products does not greatly increase its cost, significantly affecting the quality.
For pregnant
Differences in cosmetics for pregnant women:- Most of these products help expectant mothers to eliminate the effects of pregnancy, for example, stretch marks or skin pigmentation,
- When creating such funds, the special condition of the hair and skin during this period is taken into account,
- These funds are more rigorously tested for safety,
- They have fewer synthetic components,
- As a rule, they belong to hypoallergenic lines,
- The amount of natural oils in skin care products is increased, as the skin is drier during this period.
For men
Men's skin is thicker, firmer and tighter. The fibers of the connective tissue in it are arranged in such a way that it ages and sags later than in women. Men's skin is more oily, since the number of sebaceous glands on the face is greater, in addition, the environment on the surface of the skin is maintained acidic, favorable for the development of acne.Therefore, skin care products created for the beautiful half of humanity are not very suitable for men.
Men's lotions and creams include disinfectants. Hair care products are also aimed at combating excess oiliness. Most skin care products have a very light texture and are quickly absorbed, because a man does not have time to sit in front of a mirror for half an hour.
The most sought-after men's skincare products include lotions, foams, aftershave creams, balms, anti-acne preparations and anti-aging cosmetics.
Children
Baby's skin is very thin and delicate, so it requires special care. Cosmetics for babies, first of all, should not cause allergies. In addition, in the composition of such funds there are not many substances allowed for adults: dyes, polyethylene glycol, formaldehyde and others. When choosing a product for a baby, carefully read the label and pay attention to age restrictions! In addition to daily care, it is necessary to protect the baby's skin from various damaging factors.
From the sun. For this, there are special creams. For babies, it is best to take creams with a protection index of at least 25, since the child's body does not yet produce enough protective pigment to protect the skin from burns.
From biting insects. In most babies, a mosquito bite leaves a large red spot that lasts for several days. Many of them even give allergic reactions. Therefore, it is better to prevent stings of harmful insects. For this, special protective equipment is sold. In the event that the insect had time before, you need to treat the bite site with cream after the bites.
From frost. Frost and wind are two more enemies of the skin of a child. 30 minutes before going outside, you should treat the child's cheeks and arms with a cream that will protect the skin from chapping.
For problem skin
Owners of problem skin should be very careful when choosing cosmetics, in this regard, it is advisable to buy them in specialized departments or in pharmacies.To cleanse the skin, it is better to use mild lotions or tonics based on herbal extracts. Avoid preparations containing alcohol. If the skin is defatted too much, local immunity decreases, inflammation and flaking increases. Do not be afraid of the presence of fatty oils in creams. According to some reports, it is the lack of certain fats in the skin that causes disruption of the sebaceous glands.
Non-comedogenic cosmetic preparations are very popular today. But for some users, they cause an intolerance reaction, while others may not help.
Women with problem skin should reduce the use of foundation, blush and powder. Better to use loose powder and eyeshadow instead of blush. This will allow less pore clogging. But it is preferable not to apply the above products at all. The emphasis in makeup should be on the eyes to distract from the skin condition. All brushes and brushes should be cleaned daily with disinfectants.
Anti-cellulite
Almost all large manufacturing companies create anti-cellulite lines. The use of such funds allows, without too much straining, to give the body a smooth shape and get rid of the hated orange peel.Cellulite gels are usually very lightweight and absorb quickly. Creams require a lot of effort and light massage. But this procedure improves blood circulation and increases the effect.
The anti-cellulite lines have a thermal cream that creates a heating effect, which quickly removes water from the cells.
Creams with aminophylline are quite effective. A month of use is enough to get a visible result.
Together with anti-cellulite agents, it is recommended to use drugs that enhance their effect. The best effect is given by their combination with wraps, as well as a special massage.
Anti aging
You should not apply anti-aging cosmetics ahead of time, as this can lead to early aging. So, creams containing placenta extract should be used after 30 years, containing collagen from the same age. The most effective anti-aging products combine placenta extract and collagen, as well as other active ingredients. The duration of use of such drugs should be no more than 8 - 12 weeks. Then you should take a break. In the cold season, preference should be given to thick heavy creams, in the warm season - gels, emulsions.
The use of anti-aging drugs should be taken very carefully, as scientists believe that such products age the skin, making it more vulnerable to the effects of sunlight. The fat in such creams should be no more than 11%.
Shelf life of cosmetics
When buying a cosmetic product, you should carefully study its expiration date. Usually, the manufacturer indicates the date of manufacture on the tube and box, as well as the expiration date of the product. It is very important that the date of manufacture on all packages is the same.Closed funds usually have a shelf life of about 3 years.
If the tool is open, then you need to use:
- Foundation - in 12 months,
- UV filter cream - in 24 months,
- Eau de toilette and perfume - as much as you like,
- Eyeshadow - in 24 months,
- Mascara - in 6 months,
- Pencils and eyeliners - as many as you like,
- Nail polish - in 12 months,
- Creams and tonics - in 12 months.
Harmful cosmetics
Of the 70 thousand components used in the production of cosmetics, only 3 thousand are approved for use in European countries. According to experts, long-term use of cosmetics containing harmful substances can even lead to death.The most harmful in officially approved cosmetics are petroleum products. These include:
- Propylene glycol,
- Mineral oil,
- Paraffin,
- Vaseline, glycerin,
- Sodium lauryl sulfate.
The following substances are recognized as harmful to the skin:
- Lanolin,
- Kaolin ( blue clay),
- Talc,
- Aluminum silicate,
- Collagen,
Before use, you must consult a specialist.
Geriatric funds
In modern geriatric pharmacology, a separate group is made up of drugs used not only for the treatment of diseases characteristic of persons with premature aging, but also for the prevention of premature aging. These funds are conditionally and not quite correctly called geriatric, used for "drug therapy of old age", and sometimes even for "rejuvenation", which clearly does not correspond to their action and the possibilities of geriatric therapy. In recent years, they have been combined into a group of geroprotectors. These are biologically active agents, combinations of drugs that have a general stimulating effect on the aging body, aimed at normalizing impaired metabolism and functions, toning the nervous system and increasing its trophic function. These substances primarily include vitamins.
Vitamins in geriatric practice are widely used in various combinations as a background for measures aimed at both the prevention and treatment of premature aging and various diseases in old and old age. Usually, vitamin therapy complements the conventional methods of treatment, enhances their effect or eliminates the side effects inherent in a number of medicinal substances. In old people, a state of endogenous hypovitaminosis is often observed, the occurrence of which, even with the use of a sufficient amount of vitamins with food, can be explained by functional insufficiency of the digestive apparatus, pancreas, liver and associated changes in microflora, as well as the presence of inflammatory and atrophic processes. At the same time, the need of the body of old people for vitamins is usually increased due to the need to influence the reduced energy potential of the aging cell, for the excitation of which large amounts of enzymes are needed.
The daily requirement for essential vitamins in elderly and senile persons (A.A. Pokrovsky, 1968)
| Population groups | Floor | Vitamins, mg | ||||
| tia min | ribofla wines | nicotine acid | pyridoc sina hydrochloride | ascorbic acid new | ||
| 60-70 years old | ||||||
| In cities with developed public services | Husband. | 1,4 | 1,9 | 1,6 | ||
| Female | 1,2 | 1,6 | 1,4 | |||
| Husband. | 1,5 | 2,0 | 1,8 | |||
| Female | 1,3 | 1,8 | 1,15 | |||
| In cities and villages with less developed public services | Husband. | 1,5 | 2,0 | 1,8 | ||
| Female | 1,3 | 1,8 | 1,5 | |||
| The same with additional physical activity | Husband. | 1,6 | 2,1 | 1,9 | ||
| Female | 1,4 | 1,9 | 1,6 | |||
| Over 70 years old | Husband. | 1,3 | 1,8 | 1,5 | ||
| Female | 1,1 | 1,5 | 1,8 |
Thus, even with normal consumption of vitamins, a relative endogenous vitamin deficiency is possible, clinically manifesting itself as symptoms of hypovitaminosis, especially of B vitamins, at normal plasma levels; after oral administration of optimal doses of vitamins in many elderly and old people, the condition improves.
The daily requirement for vitamins increases with vigorous physical activity and intense mental work, high and low ambient temperatures, hypoxic conditions of various origins, often observed in elderly and senile people.
In geriatric practice, it is advisable to use a wide range of vitamins that have an effect on as many metabolic processes as possible.
The development of atherosclerosis is increasingly associated not only with the functional state of the central nervous system and some endocrine glands, but also with the function of the liver, which is capable of excreting excess cholesterol from the body. Vitamins and lipotropic substances such as methionine, lecithin, choline, inosine, as well as unsaturated fatty acids, combined under the name of vitamin F, having a beneficial effect on various types of metabolism, liver function, regulation of cholesterol metabolism, are a means of preventing and treating atherosclerosis.
Nicotinic acid is prescribed for angina pectoris, ischemic conditions of the lower extremities caused by atherosclerosis, thromboangiitis. However, in severe forms of coronary insufficiency and the threat of myocardial infarction, nicotinic acid is contraindicated. The positive effect of nicotinic acid on renal blood flow, cerebral blood supply, a mildly expressed normalizing effect on blood cholesterol was noted. Fat-soluble vitamins A and E seem to have a positive effect in atherosclerosis.
Vitamin complexes have a positive effect on the state of oxygen metabolism in the elderly and old people: the function of the external respiration apparatus improves, tissue respiration, tissue hypoxia decreases or disappears.
GERIATRIC MEANS
Prevention of premature aging with the methods of reasonable hygiene, which we mentioned, deserves due attention. However, the geriatrician, observing year after year the increase in the number of elderly people among his patients, cannot be satisfied with preventive measures alone. He seeks to obtain at his disposal effective therapeutic agents for the treatment of the most painful manifestations of old age. Modern gerontology has set itself a quite reasonable practical task - "to add life to the years", and not just to increase the life expectancy of a person.
What real means are available to achieve this goal?
Currently in geriatric pharmacology there is a whole group of drugs and agents used for the treatment and prevention of premature aging.
Geriatric drugs are not drugs that affect the causative agent of the disease and its manifestations, but drugs that should result in molecular and functional shifts that increase the tissue's ability to self-renew, enhance the reactivity and vitality of the body as a whole. These results should also contribute to the successful treatment of diseases occurring in elderly people.
A prominent place among geriatric drugs belongs to vitamins. Professor Chebotarev in his work "Vitamin therapy in geriatric practice" notes:
“In the prevention and treatment of premature aging of people, the use of vitamins is of great importance ... In many cases, they complement conventional treatment methods, enhance their therapeutic activity or eliminate the side effects inherent in a number of medicinal substances. Essentially, vitamin therapy for people of older age groups should be a mandatory background for various measures aimed at both the prevention and treatment of premature aging, various diseases in old and senile age. "
Vitamins are irreplaceable participants in metabolic processes. Without them, the action of enzymes that make up cells and tissues and carry out metabolic processes is impossible. The body's adaptability to environmental conditions, its resistance and endurance to diseases are largely determined by the saturation of the body with vitamins. That is why they play such a big role in the prevention and treatment of prematurely onset phenomena of old age and decrepitude of the body.
The works of Soviet and foreign scientists have convincingly proved that in the elderly and old people, the phenomenon of vitamin deficiency occurs much earlier than in young people. One of the reasons for vitamin deficiency in old age is a violation of the activity of the digestive system. Gastritis, gastric ulcer and duodenal ulcer, liver and biliary tract diseases lead to disorders of absorption, assimilation and metabolism of vitamins, which further leads to vitamin deficiency. In some cases, such phenomena as loss of strength, loss of appetite, decreased performance, sleep disorders, are explained by vitamin deficiency.
A deficiency of vital vitamins aggravates senile metabolic disorders, which leads to a weakening of the functions of many organs and systems. This suggests that the provision of vitamins to the body is one of the most important stages in the prevention and treatment of premature aging. It should be borne in mind that the action of individual vitamins in the body is closely interrelated. Therefore, the combined use of a number of vitamins gives good results.
The Institute of Gerontology of the USSR Academy of Medical Sciences has proposed new multivitamin complexes "vigerin" (dekamevit) and "geroton", which have been successfully tested in various geriatric clinics in our country.
The use of vitamin preparations in most cases causes an improvement in the indicators of metabolic processes in the elderly and old people, as well as the functional state of the cardiovascular and respiratory systems.
With a good supply of vitamins to the body, the therapeutic efficacy of other drugs increases. For example, B vitamins increase the efficacy of many cardiac glucosides used to treat severe heart disease in the elderly and old. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) reduces the side effects of many drugs. All vitamins, and especially vitamin C, increase the body's resistance to infectious diseases. Vitamin B 1 protects the nervous system from fatigue, vitamin B 6 promotes the maturation of blood cells in the bone marrow.
To combat a decrease in the oxygen content in tissues (hypoxia), "aevit" (a mixture of vitamins A and E) and calcium pangamate (vitamin Bi5) are widely used. All these vitamins have a stimulating effect on the cell and increase its oxygen consumption.
However, it should be borne in mind that taking large doses of vitamins, especially fat-soluble vitamins (A, E, D), can sometimes cause undesirable effects due to an overdose of these drugs. Therefore, the use of vitamins should be based on strictly defined indications for each person and carried out according to the doctor's prescription.
At one time, the treatment of elderly and senile people with novocaine, proposed by the Romanian academician Parhon, became widespread. The composition of novocaine includes para-aminobenzoic acid, which is a vitamin necessary for the normal functioning of the body. Novocaine, acting on the nervous system, reduces the manifestation of various disease processes in the elderly and improves their general condition. The best results of treatment with novocaine are observed in cases where the senile organism still has sufficient compensatory capabilities, reserves for improving tissue nutrition, especially in diseases that occur with pain.
However, novocaine is not a universal remedy for the prevention or treatment of premature aging, and its use should be carried out taking into account the initial state of the body, primarily the nervous system. In some cases, there is an increased individual sensitivity to novocaine. Therefore, they begin treatment with small doses. In the treatment of the elderly and old people, novocaine is recommended to be combined in combination with vitamins and hormones.
A number of scientists note the positive effect of sex hormones on the body. For example, the male sex hormone is a powerful stimulant of protein synthesis. This is very important for an elderly person, since nitrogen metabolism at this age is always impaired. Hormones normalize disturbed trophic functions of the nervous system, promote rapid healing of wounds and ulcers. All these multifaceted properties of hormonal drugs can delay the onset of old age.
With pathological aging, accompanied by the phenomena of atherosclerosis, sex hormone preparations are successfully used. They can act on the atherosclerotic process and on the metabolism of fatty substances (lipids).
Currently, anabolic hormones, which are successfully used in geriatrics as a factor of general stimulation, contributing to the normalization of protein and mineral metabolism, attract particular attention of clinicians.
However, the use of hormone therapy requires special care, and it can only be carried out under the supervision of the attending physician, after a preliminary thorough examination of the elderly and old person.
Among geriatric agents aimed at stimulating the functions of an aging organism, a special place is occupied by the antireticular cytotoxic serum (ACS) proposed by A.A. Bogomolets. “We hope, - wrote A. A. Bogomolets in 1942, - that in the antireticular cytotoxic serum we will find one of the means for the fight against premature aging of the organism, for the fight for its normal longevity”.
The use of ACS as a biological stimulant is indicated in the treatment of many diseases, accompanied by a decrease in the body's defense reactions. In medical practice in the elderly and old people, ACS gives a beneficial effect at lower doses than is recommended for people of mature age. Good results are provided by the use of ACS in complex treatment with blood transfusion, oxygen.
Among biogenic stimulants, which are more and more widely used in geriatrics, is one of the tissue preparations - a suspension of the placenta. The doctrine of tissue biogenic stimulants, developed back in the 30s of our century by Academician V.P. Filatov, substantiates the advisability of using tissue treatment in a geriatric clinic. In tissues separated from a living organism and stored in the cold, biogenic stimulants are formed that can increase life processes in an aging or sick organism. It has been established that treatment with a suspension of the placenta expands the range of functional capabilities of the aging organism, toning, regulating a number of its most important functions.
The beneficial effect of tissue preparations on the structural features of proteins is evidenced by experimental studies that showed that tissue therapy enhances the processes of nitrogen-protein metabolism, as a result of which the biosynthesis of proteins improves.
Tissue preparations cause very subtle biochemical changes in the body, associated with the course of its metabolic functions and with the qualitative restructuring of a number of very important life processes. They can be used alone and in combination with other medicinal substances used in geriatrics. The combined use of tissue preparations with other pharmacological agents is also useful because, as observations show, with such a combination, the effect of medicinal substances increases and their effectiveness increases.
Oxygen therapy - the effect of oxygen on the body is used in various forms. The most affordable is to use fresh clean air throughout your life. The second type of oxygen therapy is oxygen tents.
Theme: Beauty Products
1. Classification of cosmetics
2. Skin care products
3. Cosmetic creams
3.1. Classification of creams.
3.2. Requirements for the quality of creams.
4. Hygiene products.
Classification of cosmetics
Cosmetic products include products (substances and preparations) designed to be applied to the human body in order to cleanse, eliminate odor, protect, and give an attractive appearance (SanPiN 1.2.681-97).
For the classification of cosmetic products, OKP, TNVED, EES, etc. (code according to OKP 915800) are used.
Many textbooks and teaching aids consider the classification of cosmetics, developed by the Soviet cosmetologist and perfumer R.A.Fridman back in 1935 and spread throughout the world. According to R.A. Friedman, cosmetics are divided into the following subgroups:
· Hygienic and treatment-and-prophylactic;
Decorative;
· Theatrical (professional or stage);
· Medical (medical).
Hygienic and treatment-and-prophylactic cosmetics are designed to protect the skin, teeth, hair, nails from the harmful effects of the external environment, microbiological influences, as well as to preserve and maintain them in a healthy and beautiful state.
Decorative means are designed to decorate or change the appearance by masking (hiding or obscuring) the imperfections in a person's appearance.
Theatrical or stage agents are used by actors for color-tonal modeling of the face, hair, body skin. These are a variety of makeup, adhesives, makeup removers, etc.
Medical (medical) funds are sold through pharmacies on the recommendation of a cosmetologist or dermatologist and are used under his direct control in a strictly individual manner.
Modern cosmetics are usually classified according to two main (general) characteristics:
· For the intended purpose;
· By functional action.
By intended purpose all cosmetics are divided into:
· Skin care products;
· Means of care of teeth and oral cavity;
· Hair care products;
· Nail care products.
Produce universal products for face and body care. Very often, all-in-one body care products combine the functions of the neck, chest, arms and legs. Facial care products, in turn, include the functions of eye and lip care products. \/ By functional the action of cosmetic products are divided into hygienic, cosmetic or general care products, therapeutic and prophylactic, decorative, special and protective products.
A feature of modern cosmetics is their versatility. For example, hair shampoos can simultaneously have hygienic, therapeutic - prophylactic and decorative properties; lipsticks - decorative, cosmetic (moisturizing, nutrition), protective properties; a sunscreen cream to combine protective, cosmetic and special (prevention of premature skin aging) functions, etc.
The classification of multifunctional tools is difficult, therefore, in such tools, one should focus on their main function.
Increasingly, modern cosmetics are classified by care specializations- allocate household, professional and medical (medical) means.
Household products are intended for everyday use at home. These funds are packaged in consumer containers (packaging). They are sold through a chain of stores, pharmacies, through direct sales, etc. They do not require special training and skills to use them.
Professional products include preparations for hairdressing and beauty salons. Usually these products are more concentrated. There are special techniques for using professional tools. Professional training of specialists (cosmetologists, dermatologists, hairdressers, make-up artists, etc.) is required to apply such cosmetics. They are usually packed in larger containers, which is associated with the specifics of their use.
Recently, professional products packaged in consumer containers have appeared on the shelves of retail stores, for example, hair care products, etc.
TO professional also includes stage means (theatrical, for TV, podium, etc.). In the formulations of these products, special light filters are used.
TO curative(medical) include cosmeceuticals - these are cosmetic products with medicinal and pharmaceutical properties intended for the prevention, treatment and elimination of skin diseases, hair, nails, etc.
Household, professional and medical products are represented by both care products and decorative products. Decorative remedies are called camouflage agents.
Depending on the consistency, cosmetics are produced of the following types:
Ointment / creamy (liquid or thick) - creams, toothpastes, etc.;
Powdery - powders, blush, talcum powder, tooth powders, henna, basma, etc.;
· Solid (on a fatty wax basis) - soap, salts, lipsticks, deodorants, etc.;
· Liquid - lotions, emulsions, shampoos, paints, etc.;
Jelly - or gel-like - toothpastes, shampoos, hair fixing products, etc.
Cosmetics are also divided according to gender and age - for men, women, children and youth. There are general-purpose cosmetics (for example, "for the whole family" - shampoos, toilet soaps, toothpastes, creams, etc.). Cosmetics for women and children, and more recently for men, are classified by age group.
Cosmetics are classified by type and type of packaging. They are produced in various packaging: metal and plastic tubes; glass, metal and plastic jars; in glass and plastic bottles; in paper bags and cardboard boxes, in metal cylinders, etc.
Other general classification features:
- by completeness: piece goods; cosmetic series; perfumery and cosmetic series.
Cosmetic series - This is a set of products for various purposes, but of the same name or brand (for example, "Black Pearl", "Silver Dew", "Red Line", "Pure Line", etc.).
The cosmetic line may only consist of skin or hair care products; may include skin and hair care products (eg Silver Dew / Nizar); skin care and decorative cosmetics (for example "Black Pearl" / "Kalina" concern), etc. All products in the series have the same style and color scheme. For the aromatization of the products in the series, one perfume fragrance is used, and the same biologically active component or complex is used as an active agent.
Perfumery and cosmetic a series is a set of perfumery and cosmetic products: first, a perfume liquid appears on the market, and after a while - a series of cosmetic products based on the beloved aroma with the same name of cosmetic products ("Russian Beauty", "Green Tea" / "New Dawn", etc. .);
· Country and manufacturer;
· Marketing (price) classification, according to which all modern cosmetics, as well as perfumery, are divided into main groups: mass - market, middle - market (medium - market), premium class, luxury class (or selective products).
Special features for certain types of goods. For example, hair care products (shampoos, balms, rinses, etc.) are divided according to the type of hair and are produced for dry, normal, oily, etc. Varnishes, foams, hair mousses are produced with varying degrees of fixation: normal (natural), medium, strong, super strong (ultra strong, extra strong). Cosmetic products for skin care are divided by skin types: for dry, normal, oily and combination skin.
Skin care products
Human skin care products, depending on their intended purpose, are divided into skin care products for the face, body, hands, feet, etc.
According to their functional effect, skin care products in each subgroup are divided into: hygienic (washing and cleaning), general or cosmetic care (moisturizing, nutrition, toning), therapeutic and prophylactic, protective and special.
The range of skin care products is wide and varied - these are creams, lotions, emulsions, foams, milk, cream, toilet soaps, shower gels, foams, serums, cleansing patches, sanitary napkins and many others.
COSMETIC CREAMS
The cream is an ointment (pasty) agent of a thick or liquid consistency, which has a pleasant color and smell and is intended for the care of the skin of the face, hands, head, etc.
Cream, literally translated from English, means "cream".
The composition of modern creams includes fats, oils, waxes, petroleum products, surfactants (surfactants), emulsifiers, fillers, preservatives, biologically active substances (BAS), aromatic and other substances.
Classification.
According to their composition and method of obtaining, cosmetic creams are divided into:
· Fatty;
· Emulsion;
· Gel (creams-gels).
Fat creams are thick mixtures consisting of fatty components and special additives. These creams are prepared by melting fatty components of varying degrees of hardness without adding water. Lanolin, stearin, sperm whale fat, beeswax, glycerin, vaseline and perfume oils, paraffin, ceresin, etc. are used as fat components. Vitamins, infusions, essential oils, fragrances are used as special additives.
When applied to the skin, fatty creams seem sticky, they are poorly absorbed by the skin and leave an oily sheen on it, therefore such creams have limited use today. They are used as protective and special skin care products. These creams restore the surface layer of the skin, protect it from drying out and peeling; protect the skin from chapping and frostbite. They are used as massage creams; creams for bust skin care, skin around the eyes. There are fat creams for children. Fatty creams are used to care for the skin around the eyes.
Emulsion creams are dispersed systems, which are a homogeneous mixture of water and fat phases. There are three types of emulsions:
Oil / water (m / w),
Water / oil (w / m),
· Mixed type emulsions.
In oil / water emulsions, oil droplets are suspended in an aqueous solution (emulsions are more liquid); and in emulsions of the water / oil type, on the contrary, water droplets are surrounded by an oil phase (emulsions of this type are thicker). Emulsions of the oil / water type contain less than 45% of the oil phase, in emulsions of the water / oil type - more than 45%. Mixed type emulsions are approximately equal in water and oil phases. Its consistency resembles an oil / water emulsion.
The most common type of emulsion is oil / water, based on which a wide range of modern cosmetic creams are created, ranging from nourishing creams to light milk or day cream.
Oil / water creams are easily and quickly absorbed by the skin without leaving a greasy mark on it. They are used as care products for oily and normal skin. Water / oil creams are more oily formulations intended for the care of dry, aging skin. They are absorbed more slowly and are mainly used as evening / night creams.
Gel (yellow) creams are colloidal systems on a water-glycerin basis containing gelling substances, fat emulsions, special additives, etc. As gelling substances that, when mixed with water, form a viscous mass or solidify, gelatin, a natural polymer agar-agar from seaweed, etc. Gel creams (gel creams) are used to care for oily face skin, to care for the skin of the hands, feet, etc.
By consistency creams are thick (ointment or pasty) and liquid (emulsion), containing up to 98% water. Liquid creams (milk, lotions, emulsions) cleanse, moisturize and tone the skin well.
By age and sex cosmetic creams are classified into creams for women, men, children and adolescents. This division is due to the peculiarities of the structure and properties of the skin.
Women's creams are produced for various types of skin: dry, oily, normal, dry and normal, normal and oily, combination, problem, mature skin, universal - for all skin types; different age groups (18-25 years old, 25-30 years old, 30-35 years old, 35-45 years old, over 45 years old).
Women's face creams are divided into day (mainly moisturizing or day - protective creams) and night / evening creams (nourishing creams), which restore the balance of natural fats and water contained in the skin and lost during the day. They regulate water-lipid metabolism, stimulate the process of cell renewal, and slow down skin aging. Night creams are more greasy. Supplements must be added to night creams: sturgeon milk extract, coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid, amino acids, polysaccharides, etc.).
Mens cosmetic creams are divided into hygienic (shaving creams), therapeutic and prophylactic (after-shave creams, modern face and body skin care creams) and special (anti-wrinkle creams).
Baby cosmetic creams are, as a rule, a prophylactic agent for the care of sensitive baby skin. Baby creams are made according to a stricter recipe. They do not contain synthetic preservatives. Sometimes vitamin E or C is added to the cream as an antioxidant.
They can be of different purposes:
For diaper rash (baby skin care cream); contains natural fatty components, has an anti-inflammatory effect (chamomile extract is present in the composition), prevents irritation of delicate skin;
· To soften and moisturize the skin. The cream is applied to the skin of the child's body after bathing. it becomes dry from frequent bathing;
· Creams for skin care that reduce allergic reactions, diathesis, relieve itching (contain infusions of useful herbs: extract of thyme, yarrow, viburnum, etc.).
Creams for teens. Often during adolescence and adolescence, the skin becomes oily and acne prone. The reason for the appearance of acne (comedones) is considered to be age-related hormonal changes in the body, as a result of which the sebaceous glands produce too much thick secretion. Fat oxidizes in air, clogs form, dirt accumulates on them, which creates ideal conditions for bacteria. The sebaceous gland becomes inflamed and acne is formed. Cosmetics of this group are designed to remove excess fat and dead skin cells. Low-fat emulsion creams contain boric-salicylic acid, sulfur, borax, furacilin, plant extracts (chamomile, celandine, etc.), benzoyl peroxide, antibacterial additives: triclosan, chlorhexil. For adolescent skin care, we offer a series of cosmetics "Fly away" from "Green-Mama", "MIA" from "Kalina" and others.
Functional action. Modern creams, depending on the composition (on the content of the main raw materials and nutrients), have a different effect. Creams are cleansing, nourishing, moisturizing, protective and special.
Cleansing Creams- These are creams for daily skin care that cleanse the skin from the secretions of the sebaceous, sweat glands, dust and soot from the environment; means for removing decorative cosmetics, as well as means for deep cleaning - cream - masks, scrubs, peeling creams.
Nourishing creams are for the face, body, arms, legs and hair. The main effect of these cosmetic creams is to nourish the skin and increase its vitality. The formulation of nourishing creams includes useful, medicinal additives, vitamins, liposomes, etc.
Moisturizers serve to moisturize and retain moisture in the skin. These are mainly day creams.
Protective creams are designed to protect the skin from external influences: the sun (series Ambre Solaire / Laboratories Gamier, Johnsons suncare / Johnson & Johnson), strong wind and bad weather (Blizzard cream / Kalina, Wind & Wetter Creme / Bubchen, from harmful exposure to alkalis, detergents (hand cream "Silicone" / "Freedom"), etc.
Special creams... These include massage creams (for regular and sports massage), anti-cellulite creams, whitening creams, creams for nail cuticle care, deburring, depilatory, eye contour creams, eye creams, lip creams, etc.
A feature of the modern assortment of special creams, designed for both women and men, is the presence of creams that prevent skin aging. These are anti-wrinkle creams, regenerating creams, lifting creams (creams for aging skin), etc.
In addition, cosmetic creams can be subdivided according to the type and volume of packaging, according to the type of packaging (according to the packaging material), according to countries of origin, according to manufacturing firms, according to price, etc.
Quality of creams
The quality of cosmetic creams must meet the requirements of GOST 29189-91 and GOST R 52343-2005 “Cosmetic creams. OTU ".
In appearance, creams should be a homogeneous mass that does not contain impurities. In creams for special purposes (scrubs, peels, etc.), specific inclusions of abrasive and additives are allowed in accordance with the manufacturer's recipe.
The color and smell of the cream should be characteristic of the color and smell of the cream of this name.
Table 1 shows the physicochemical indicators of the quality of creams and their norms, depending on the base of the creams (for emulsion, fatty and gel creams).
Table 1. Physicochemical indicators of the quality of creams
Table 2 shows the physicochemical indicators of emulsion creams depending on the type of emulsion and their consistency (GOST 29189-91).
Table 2. Physicochemical indicators of the quality of emulsion creams
The pH value for special creams (scrubs, peels, whitening, self-tanning creams, sunscreens, etc.) and for creams containing herbal extracts, fruit acids and their derivatives is allowed within 3.0-9.0; in depilatory creams - within 7.0-12.7.
Cosmetic creams for microbiological indicators must comply with the safety standards established by the hygienic requirements for perfumery and cosmetic products in accordance with SanPiN 1.2.681-97.
According to toxicological safety indicators, cosmetic creams are classified as hazard class 4 (low-hazard substances). Therefore, they should not have general toxic, skin irritating and sensitizing effects.
It must be remembered that cosmetic creams are fire and explosive.
To assess the quality of a cosmetic cream, according to GOST 29188.0 -91, samples are taken and a random sample is made:
from a batch up to 10 thousand pieces. - at least 6 pcs., from a batch of over 10 thousand pcs. - not less than 3 pcs. from each 5 thousand pcs.
To check the compliance of cosmetic creams with the requirements of GOST, acceptance and periodic tests are carried out. Acceptance tests are carried out in terms of: appearance, color, odor, pH, dropping point and colloidal stability. The order and frequency of control in terms of indicators: mass fraction of water and volatile substances, thermal stability, mass fraction of the sum of heavy metals and microbiological indicators are set by the manufacturer in the production control program.
A combined sample is made from the sample, the mass of which must be at least 150 g.
Hygiene products.
Modern hygienic skin care products are divided into:
· Means of basic cleaning;
· Means of special cleaning.
Basic cleaning agents are used to remove all kinds of impurities (dust, dirt, etc.), makeup residues, grease, sweat from the surface of the skin. These products can be used every day: morning, afternoon and evening.
Special (deep) cleaning products skin remove impurities (sebum, dust, etc.) from the pores of the skin, and also cleanse the epidermis from keratinized skin particles. These are means of periodic use.
According to the conditions for the use of cleaning agents, they are divided into:
· Products that do not require rinsing with water (lotions, tonics, milk, cream);
Water-washable products, which, in combination with water, give abundant foam (toilet soaps, gels, foams, mousses) and can be washed off with water without foaming (cleansing creams, cream masks);
· Means washed off with tonic (creams, milk for dry and sensitive skin, which does not tolerate contact with water);
· Means, removed in the form of a film (masks for deep cleaning of pores).
Milk and cream produced mainly in the form of liquid emulsions containing fats, acids, detergents and bactericidal substances, moisturizers. These are gentle cleansers that are used in the morning instead of washing for dry skin, in the evening to remove impurities and remove makeup for all skin types. Simultaneously with cleansing, the skin is nourished and moisturized.
Lotions and tonics- these are aqueous - alcoholic or aqueous solutions containing glycerin, bactericidal substances, plant extracts, vitamins and other substances that give elasticity and freshness to the skin. Lotions and toners have a neutral or acidic environment, close to the acidity of the skin.
Distinguish:
· Alcoholic lotions, which contain 15-25% (up to 40%) ethyl alcohol, are used for oily skin;
· Alcohol-free lotions (based on isopropyl alcohol) are used to care for dry skin;
Phytolos with a high content of herbal extracts and infusions useful for the skin;
· Lotions - tonics / tonics-lotions - combined means, cleansing and toning the skin;
· Emulsion lotions - liquid emulsion creams;
Biphasic lotions / tonics
Lotions are used for the so-called final cleansing of the skin, i.e. after using the cream, milk. They help to restore the protective acid layer of the skin, degrease it, which is necessary for subsequent care and / or applying makeup. Alcohol lotions are used by men after shaving, and emulsion lotions are used to care for the skin before and after shaving. Lotions are used as photoprotective and deodorant agents.
Cream - foam, cream - soap, cream - gel are combined products that combine the properties of an emulsion cleansing cream and the properties of a washing gel, foam or soap. These products not only cleanse the skin, but also soften it like a cream. Compared to milk, cleaning is more efficient because the products contain a detergent base - sodium lauryl sulfate and diethanolamide of fatty acids.
Foam for washing, bubble bath, shower gel, liquid soap- means similar both in composition and functional purpose. Designed to cleanse the skin and rinse off with water. These funds are based on synthetic surfactants (surfactants) of various concentrations. Additionally, the composition includes substances that soften, moisturize, nourish the skin.
The highest concentration of surfactants in bath foams (12-30%). According to the domestic classification, these funds are classified as foam detergents intended for taking a bath.
Shower gels contain surfactants mixed with gelling agents. They are divided according to gender and age: for men, women, children and the whole family. Some gels have exfoliating properties because they contain finely ground abrasive particles that mechanically exfoliate the keratinized epidermis.
Synthetic soaps(not fat-based) produce both liquid (liquid) and solid soaps. An example of solid synthetic soap is Bubchen emulsion baby soap (Beiersdorf AG, Germany). In appearance, such a soap is almost indistinguishable from solid fat-based toilet soap.
In annotations for synthetic soaps (liquid and solid), manufacturers often indicate “soap-free”. This should be understood as “does not contain natural soap”.
Synthetic soaps are also called hygienic soaps.
Hygienic soaps are often highly specialized, i.e. intended for washing only hands, feet, face. Although there are tools of a wide profile.
Modern synthetic detergents have a number of advantages over traditional toilet soaps:
· Have a softer effect on the skin. After using them, there is no feeling of dryness and tightness of the skin. They have a pH of 5.0-5.5, close to the pH of the skin (for toilet soap - a pH of at least 9.0);
· Convenient to use, because packaged in plastic bottles with dispensers of various designs;
· More economical.
Gels, foams, liquid soaps can be 2 in 1 (wash and soften) and 3 in 1 (wash, soften and moisturize). Some gels may contain a scrub.
Cleansing products can be produced in series, including bath foam, shower gel, toilet soap, shampoo.
A large assortment of synthetic detergents is intended for children. They produce gels and bath foams. Special foams have been developed - anti-cold. These products are often packaged in the form of toys.
Children's detergents have pleasant fruity smells (strawberry, banana, etc.), do not contain dyes and other substances that can irritate the skin of a child. Increased requirements are imposed on the safety of these products during production and certification.
In addition to the considered agents, washing emulsions, washing gel, cleansing oil (a mixture of hydrophilic oils with the addition of fat-dissolving surfactants), etc. are used.
Special cleansers is a means of deep skin cleansing, which is achieved by removing impurities from the pores of the skin and by removing keratinized skin particles.
To clean the pores of the skin, use creams, masks, cream - cleansing masks. These are mild remedies. They only cleanse the pores, but do not remove dead cells.
Cleansing masks (cream masks) contain substances that cause swelling of the upper stratum corneum and increase blood circulation. Such masks have a cream base, contain adsorbents (chalk, talc, zinc oxide), surfactants, may contain therapeutic mud, vitamins, herbal and plant infusions, and other biologically active substances. Usually the mask is applied for 10-20 minutes and then washed off. They cleanse well, refresh and tone the skin, prepare it for the next steps of care - moisturizing and nourishing.
There are surfactant-free cleansing masks. Such masks contain, for example, egg white, which has good adhesion to the skin, and a salt system containing Na +, K +, Ca2 +, Mg2 + ions, which provides a good cleansing effect. For an additional effect, abrasive substances can be introduced into the mask (mask - scrub), grinding the skin, the nature of the action of which is discussed below.
Mask (cream - mask) are selected depending on the type of skin.
Recently, masks in the form of a gel have found widespread use, forming a transparent film on the skin surface, which is removed along with impurities without using water.
In the assortment of hygiene products of many companies, cleansing strips for the skin of the nose, T-shaped zone, as well as cleansing wipes have appeared.
Very often, black dots appear on the skin in the nose area - the result of increased sebum secretion and clogging of the sebaceous ducts, to remove which cleansing strips are used. The cleansing strips are like a patch that is glued to the pre-moistened nasal skin. The cleansing strips contain a pore-penetrating agent that mixes with impurities. After 10-15 minutes, the cleansing strip is removed from the skin along with impurities. After using the strips, no redness remains on the skin.
Removal of keratinized skin particles is carried out with the help of scrubs and peeling - means (to scrub - to clean, to peel - to cleanse, exfoliate, remove the skin). These funds are also called exfoliants. In Europe, these funds first appeared in the 80s, in Russia - later.
Scrubs most often they are products in the form of a gel, emulsion, foaming cream, i.e. creamy consistency, which include nutrients and moisturizers, as well as small hard abrasive particles (exfoliants), which, when rubbed into the skin, promote mechanical exfoliation and removal of dead cells of the stratum corneum. As abrasive particles, crushed oat flour, corn and rice, finely ground particles of walnut shells, almonds, apricot kernels, etc., mineral crushed substances (for example, river sand, clay particles, sponges), polymer balls made of PE and 1111 are used, particles of wax, paraffin, etc.
Scrubs are used to care for the skin of the face, body, hands, feet.
Scrubs are chosen depending on the type of skin. Scrubs with fine abrasive particles are suitable for cleaning delicate, sensitive and dry facial skin. Scrubs with harsh abrasive particles are used to care for the feet.
Scrubs are not used every day, but periodically. For example, no more than once a week.
Peeling- funds (peels), depending on the composition, are divided into chemical peelings (based on acids or enzymes) and preparations causing keratin swelling (based on surfactants).
Removal of keratinized cells by chemical means (by dissolving them) is carried out by means based on glycolic, fruit, folic, salicylic, hyaluronic and other acids. Most often, glycolic acid (5-15%) is used in chemical peels, which acts on the stratum corneum of the epidermis, dissolving a substance that binds cells together, which helps to remove dead cells from the surface of the skin.
Enzymes , which are part of chemical peels, destroy the peptide bonds of the keratin protein, thereby simplifying the process of exfoliation of dead cells. Enzyme peels use papaya enzymes, trypsin, chemotrypsin, etc.
Enzyme peels are often available in the form of powders, which are mixed with water to a creamy consistency before application.
Enzyme gels and emulsions are used in combination with brassage (removal of dead cells of the stratum corneum using rotating brushes). Removal of the product with a coarse cloth is possible.
Means based on cationic and anionic surfactants cause keratin to swell, as a result of which dead cells are easily removed. These products are recommended for the care of oily and oily problem skin.
Chemical peels m. diluted or concentrated.
The former are used as household products, the latter as professional ones for deep cleaning of the skin in beauty salons, carried out by specialists-cosmetologists.