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Sew an empire dress with your own hands. Empire dress pattern - an elegant dress for all occasions can be sewn independently and in a short time, using the master class and video instructions. Empire style high-waisted dress pattern for girls

23:25 simon9589 2 Comments

In this article, we will simulate the basic design of a dress in order to get a pattern for a dress of a similar style.

To start define technical characteristics constructions this dress... So, the dress has a high waistline at the level of the Empire line, the bust darts are transferred to the waistline and are designed in the form of tucks. The hem of the dress is A-line and consists of three equal tiers. The sleeves of the dress are flared at the bottom and gathered at the cuffs. The neck of the dress is finished with a stand-up collar, and some of the connecting seams are decorated with frills.
In addition, we will make our own changes to the style of this dress: along the neckline we will add a small V-neckline, reduce the shoulder length, and flare the sleeves not from the ridge line, but from the elbow line.

Well, the problem is clear, now you can start constructive modeling. Prepare clear sheet paper and the basic design of a semi-fitted dress (I used a pattern built according to).


It remains to find out what the Empire line is?
Empire line- This is the high waistline, which is located under the chest. The style of clothing cut with an empire waist line is called an empire style or an empire style.

So, if our waistline should be located under the bust, then in this area we will have the reference point of the product, that is, our future dress should adhere to the body along the Empire line. In the article about, we learned that for shoulder clothing, the support areas are the necklines, armholes and protruding points of the chest and shoulder blades, which means that if we just transfer the waist line to the level of the Empire line, then the waist we transferred will still not be be a reference site. And why? - you ask. Because the concave section (or notch) from the protruding point of the chest to the waist line is not taken into account when building the basic design of the dress, therefore, the product will not fit at the level of the Empire line. Therefore, we need to take into account this notch in order to achieve the dressing of the dress on the section of the Empire line, by introducing an additional bust dart No. 4.

To build additional chest dart on the design drawing of the dress, it is necessary to measure the radius of the chest and the size of the notch under the base of the chest (you can learn how to correctly take these measurements from). Now, on the pattern of the shelf, draw a circle with a radius equal to the radius of the chest, while the center of the circle should coincide with the center of the chest.


Let's build an additional bust dart No. 4 from the center of the chest to the waist line, while the dart solution is located on the circumference (you can see how to build a dart correctly in the article about). I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this dart is not a tackle, it affects the shaping of the product under the base of the chest.


Let's draw an empire waistline, which will be located under the chest. To do this, put down from the chest line along the midline of the shelf an amount equal to the radius of the chest. Through the resulting point, draw a horizontal straight line to the right until it intersects with the middle line of the back. The constructed line is a new waist line for both the front and back. If desired, the Empire line can be lowered down by 1-2 cm.


Let's cut our back and front sewing patterns along the new waistline.


We proceed to modeling the bodice of the dress.


First of all, we will reduce the length of the shoulder, for this, in the drawing of the back and shelves, we set aside an equal amount from the end shoulder point towards the neck. Reducing the length of the shoulder in the design of a dress with a set-in sleeve can only be up to 4cm, I reduced it by 3cm. Now we will issue smooth lines new armhole lines, connecting the resulting points with the control points of the armhole. Thus, we not only reduced the length of the shoulder, but also increased the line of the armhole.

(Optionally, you can leave the shoulder line the same by skipping this step.)

In the design of our dress, the darts on the shelf are trimmed with tucks, so we will simply remove the outlined lines of the tucked darts. On the back, we will transfer the solution of the tackle tuck to the side seam, postponing its size along the new waist line from side seam... Connect the resulting point with a concave line to the point of the armhole. note, we measure new solution tuck dart, which is located on the Empire line, its size is not too large, since it is part of the cut dart.


We proceed to modeling the bodice shelf... From the top of the breast dart, lower the perpendicular to the empire line and cut the pattern along the marked line.


Now we will close the bust dart by sliding the paper pattern of the shelf along the cut line.


Draw a V-neck at the neckline. To do this, from the line of the middle of the shelf, set aside 3 cm along the neckline, and downward from the neckline, set aside 18cm along the midline. The resulting points 3 and 18 are connected by a straight line. The drawn line is the neckline. If desired, the cutout can be deepened or, conversely, reduced.


Now we will cut out the pattern of the shelf along the new lines, put it on a blank sheet of paper and outline the shelf along the contours, not taking into account the lines of the breast dart.


We will lengthen the shelf in the tuck section by 0.3-0.5 cm so that we have a slight overlap, and draw a smooth line for the bottom of the shelf,

This completes the modeling of the bodice shelf. If you want more folds on the shelf along the waistline, then you need to apply a conical extension: draw one or two lines from the waistline to the shoulder cut, cut the shelf along these lines and move the pattern to the desired size along the waistline, and then draw new line waist, increasing the length of the shelf by 1-2 cm.

Modeling the bodice of the dress is completed, we have got these details of the back and shelves.

note, on the back we left a shoulder dart, if desired, the dart can be modeled, or transferred to any other cut.

To process the neckline, we will use a straight trimming, which is very easy to create a pattern. Prepare a blank sheet of paper and apply a pattern of the bodice shelf, which we circle along the lines of the bottom, middle, neck and shoulder. And then draw lines at a distance of 3-4 cm parallel lines middle and neckline.


Thus, we have built a facing for processing V-neck neck. Upper and bottom cut our trims are the same as connecting seams dresses, which is very comfortable - in finished product our edging will not bend and "look out" to the front side.


We proceed to modeling the skirt of the dress.


In the skirt of our dress, there are no tuck darts, so if your basic design of the dress has an additional tuck dart, then it simply does not need to be taken into account, but at the same time its solution along the Empire line must be left, since it is not significant. Now, in the drawings of the back and the shelf, we lower the vertical straight lines from the tops of the tackle darts to the bottom line.


Cut the back and shelf patterns along the outlined lines.


Now we will close the tackle tuck of the shelf along the lines of tuck No. 4, pushing the part of the shelf along the cut line. We measure along the bottom line the amount by which the shelf has moved apart. On the back, we will close only the dart solution along the empire line, pushing the pattern along the bottom line by the same amount as the shelf pattern, while the tack on the back will only partially close.


We will not take into account the remaining solution of the back tackle tuck.


After we transferred the tackle darts to the lower cut of the dress, our waist lines were broken, so on a clean sheet of paper we will circle the details of the back and shelves around the office and draw new cuts along the waist line. Along the side line, draw out the notch of the waist with smooth lines, and raise the bottom line on the back and on the shelf by 1-2 cm along the side seam and draw up the lower cut with smooth lines, observing a right angle at the midlines.


Now, having measured the length of the shelf along the middle line, we divide this line into three equal parts. From the points obtained, draw lines to the side cut of the shelf parallel to the bottom cut, observing a right angle at the middle line. Then, to the side cut of the shelf, we attach the back part with a side cut and mark the position of the lines we have outlined. From the points obtained, draw lines to the midline of the back parallel to the lower cut, while the angle at the intersection with the midline should be straight.


Let's cut our patterns along the new marked lines.


This completes the modeling of the skirt of the dress, as a result, we got three details for the shelf and three details for the back.


Moving on to modeling the sleeve... To do this, prepare with an elbow dart.


Since we have reduced the length of the shoulder and widened the armhole, we need to increase the height of the cuff of the sleeve. To find out how much you need to increase, we will measure the new height of the armhole of the front and back.


We add the measured values ​​and divide in half, and subtract the required coefficient from the result obtained, so we get the value of the sleeve ridge height for the new dress armhole. (We did the same when we built the sleeve structure, you can also find the required ratio). Now, from the new height of the ridge, we subtract the value of the previous height of the ridge of the sleeve, the resulting difference is the required value by which we need to increase the height of the ridge of our sleeve. Set aside this value along the line of the middle of the sleeve upward from the line of the okat and connect the resulting point with the control points of the sleeve with smooth lines.

Attention ! If you have not changed the length of the shoulder of the dress, then you skip this step.

We translate the elbow dart into the line of the bottom of the sleeve, for this we lower the perpendicular from the top of the dart to the bottom line.


Cut the sleeve pattern along the marked line.

And we will cut the sleeve pattern along these straight lines and along the elbow line.


We spread the cut parts of the sleeve along the bottom line by the desired size so that side slices the sleeves remained connected, while the elbow line should also remain continuous (see Fig.)


Let's transfer the new contours of the sleeve to a blank sheet of paper and draw out the side cuts with smooth lines. Let's lengthen our sleeve by 5-10cm, it is necessary to do this to form an overlap of the sleeve at the wrist.


We will construct a section of the sleeve by dividing the distance from the elbow cut to the middle line in half, from the obtained point we will set aside 2 cm towards the elbow cut. And draw a vertical line 10-12 cm long through point 2 from the bottom line of the sleeve. This completes the modeling of the sleeves, this is the pattern we should get.


For processing the lower edge of the sleeve, we will use a cuff, the pattern of which is very easy to construct. We draw a rectangle with a length equal to the measurement of the wrist circumference + 3-4 cm for the fastener, and a width equal to twice the cuff width (in my example, the cuff width is 1.5 cm, which means the pattern width will be 3 cm).


Now we have left build a pattern of a stand-up collar... It is just as simple to build it: we draw a rectangle AVSD, in which the sides AB and SD are equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck + 1 cm for a free fit (if you plan to fasten the collar with a button, then you need to add 3-4 cm for the fastener), and the sides of AB and BC are equal the desired collar width (in my example, 2cm). We divide the sides AB and SD in half and denote the obtained points L and K. From points B and C we put up 0.5 cm and connect the obtained points with the points L and K. with straight lines.


And our collar pattern is ready!


This completes the modeling of the basic design of the dress, we received new model dresses empire style with flared sleeves. Our pattern consists of the following parts: front and back of the bodice, trim for the neckline, stand-up collar, three parts of the skirt shelf and three parts of the back of the skirt, as well as a part of the sleeve and cuff.

The dress is an empire style, a very versatile outfit. It will suit any girl. Both slender and plump. It gives femininity, visually lengthens the legs. Distinctive features of this dress are: high waist, deep neckline and flowing hem.

The process of sewing an empire dress

On the fabric for the dress any will do lightweight and flowing material. You can use silk, chiffon or even thin jersey. You can also decorate the dress. small amount lace or embroidery.

Cut out two rectangles from the prepared fabric. The first rectangle should be equal to the length of the bodice, and the width should be equal to the girth of the chest, and by adding about 9 - 10 centimeters. And the second rectangle will be equal to the length of the dress from the bodice, but the width is the same as the girth of the chest, while also multiplied by two.

At the very beginning, the bodice is processed. Fold it in half and grind the seam. You need to process the seam with a zigzag seam. And press it to one side. Sew. Do not forget to leave a hole through which you can later thread a beautiful tape.

The fabrics of the skirt are processed in the same way as the bodice. At the top edge, sew and tie to whatever width you need. The skirt is sewn to the bodice. Sections are processed on an overlock, if you do not have one, then a zigzag seam will do. And then a braid is attached to this seam.

The bottom of the dress is hemmed. To do this, dress someone else in a dress more neatly. It will be easier that way.

You can decorate the top of the bodice with thin lace. A satin or silk ribbon is fine under the bust.

The pattern of a dress in a simple empire model is not very difficult, but still, it requires certain skills in modeling and sewing. If we consider the model of an Empire dress from a historical point of view, it means light dress from muslin or cambric, by all means light shade... No decoration or decoration - simplicity and naturalness. Now, of course, the model has undergone some changes, not without help modern designers such as Galliano. If in the classical understanding of the style only sleeves-lanterns appeared, then in modern dress empire sleeves can be long or three-quarters, they may not be at all, or there may be straps. But the basic concept has remained unchanged.

Learning the correct construction of an empire dress pattern

The following features remained characteristic of the Empire style:

  • A-silhouette. Tight bodice, skirt that gradually expands to the bottom
  • High waist, accentuated by a belt or ribbon with a bow
  • Flowing skirt
  • Cropped bodice with different form notch
  • Light plain fabrics for sewing

An empire style dress will be appropriate for any season and for any event. Summer dresses in this style, they can be a little brighter than the generally accepted light calm range.

The midi length is the most comfortable and not defiant, it will be appropriate in the office and everyday life.

For a holiday and celebration, it is customary to choose the maximum length. The ribbon or belt can be decorated with rhinestones or pearls.

Many brides choose this style for wedding dress, because he breathes innocence, and at the same time, sexuality.

Choosing the right accessories and jewelry for an Empire dress can be difficult. They should only emphasize the beauty and grace of the cut, not distract attention and harmonize with each other. As an option - a chiffon stole, freely lying on the elbows and a modest decoration-twig in the hair. A clutch or pouch bag will complete the look. Shoes for an empire dress will suit both thin heels, with straps, and ballet flats or sandals. Platform shoes or shoes are incompatible with this dress. rough soles- footwear also needs lightness and grace.

You can sew such a dress with your own hands according to the proposed pattern with detailed description.The main measurements that you need to take to start sewing a dress with your own hands:

  • girth of the neck;
  • shoulder length;
  • girth of the chest and above the chest;
  • hips and waist;
  • length from back to waist;
  • the length of the future dress.

The pattern of the dress itself is modeled according to the pattern-base of the dress. The top of the dress is quite close-fitting, therefore, when building a base pattern, add one and a half centimeters to the freedom of fitting.

Modeling patterns

Transfer the darts on the front half of the pattern and on the back of the base pattern and on the back of the dress. They are shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 3. Along the lines of the darts, you need to model the embossed seams.

Form a flare on the sides of the front and back of the dress. This is modeled as follows: 30 cm is deposited from the hips, flaring is performed as in Fig. 2 and Fig. 4, leaving 15-20 cm for flaring. Along the back of the dress, you need to make an extension of 10 centimeters, since a train is provided along the back.

There is also a bow-belt, two meters long, half a meter wide. V finished form it will be 7-8 centimeters, the rest of the length will be spent on upholstery.

From the main fabric, you need to cut out the following details:

  • Middle part of the front - 1 piece with a fold
  • Side part of the front - 2 parts
  • The middle part of the back - 2 parts
  • Back side part - 2 pieces
  • Belt - 1 piece (2 meters long, 50 cm wide)

The details of the lining repeat the pattern of the dress up to the waist. Additionally, you will need bones for the side seams and reliefs of the back of the dress.

How to sew.

  • Sweep and grind off raised seams and side seams.
  • Side seam allowances, folded together, stitch at a distance of 0.7 centimeters from the seam. Stitch from the top of the bodice to the waistline of the dress. Insert a bone into the formed drawstring, it should be 1 centimeter shorter than the drawstring. To prevent the bone from falling out, you need to restitch the drawstring along the top and along the waist line of the dress.
  • Sew a hidden zipper on the back.
  • Sweep the lining of the year dress, side and embossed seams.
  • Fold the lining with the dress right sides to each other, sweep and stitch along the top and tape the zipper.
  • Turn the dress to the right side, sweep clean along the top. Iron out.
  • Treat the bottom of the lining and sweep with blind stitches to the seams.
  • Fold the belt and sew along the edge. Tie a belt on the dress, drape on the sides, grab the drapery with blind stitches along the embossed seams. Tie a bow on the back, hem the bottom of the dress.

You can perform such a model on knitting needles and crocheting. Techniques are usually combined - part is knitted, and part is crocheted. Then the dress turns out to be airy, light and delicate.

Empire style dress - a little history

The Empire style dress owes its birth to the beloved of Napoleon Boanopart - Josephine. It was she who became the founder of the Empire style and a kind of creator of the Empire style dress - a dress with a high waist, an elegant silhouette. An empire style dress cannot be confused with any other.

Today, the Empire style dress is experiencing a renaissance thanks to designers, the first of whom was John Galliano. Galliano not only returned the Empire-style dress to women, but also made the Empire-style dress ultra-fashionable (Dior Couture collection).

Such a dress is versatile, emphasizing the bust line, visually thinning the waist, helping to hide figure flaws, and making the legs simply endless! That is why women like it so much.

In addition, an Empire-style dress creates an image of virgin innocence, side by side with bright sex appeal. That is why many brides opt for Empire style dresses.

Historical reference. An empire style dress is a thin muslin or cambric light dress without trimmings and decorations, worn on leotards or on a naked body. The high waistline determines the ratio of the proportions of the short bodice of the dress and the long straight skirt: 1: 6 in the front, 1: 6.5 in the profile and 1: 7 in the back (thanks to a small train at the back).

The essence of the dress is already expressed in its very name: empire - from the French "empire", empire. The first emperor of France sought to surround himself with the splendor and splendor that once surrounded the Roman emperors. The Empire style, and with it the Empire style dress, did not arise as a result of free, natural development artistic tendencies, but was created artificially, by order from above.

Modern fashion designers love Empire lines and Empire-style dresses also for their special sexuality and a certain innocence. This style not only symbolizes the lady from high society or a person of royal blood, but also very much suits most women.

By the way, Empire style dresses are divided into summer, formal, business and street dresses. We invite you to join the Empire era and sew yourself amazingly Nice dress according to our free pattern.

Empire style dress - pattern

The dress pattern is modeled by. Since the silhouette is tightly fitting, make an increase in the freedom of fit when building a base pattern by 1.5 cm.

Sweep the side and embossed seams on the lining of the dress.

Fold the lining with the dress face to face. Sweep and stitch over top and zip ties.

Turn the Empire-style dress over the face, sweep cleanly at the top and iron. Trim the bottom of the lining along the bottom and manually baste the seams with blind stitches.

Fold the dress belt along the edge and sew. Tie a belt on the dress, draped on the sides. Hand grab the drapery with blind stitches along the raised seams of the Empire-style dress. Tie a bow on the back. Hem the bottom of the dress.

There are not many outfits that fit all types of events and any audience. One of these is the Empire dress, which has already become a favorite clothing for many women, both in everyday use and on the occasion of celebrations.

In this article, we will try to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of sewing from the choice of fabric, to the actual work itself to create a beautiful and stylish dress... To state the information as fully as possible - our the main objective and the task. The main thing is that you succeed in making such a dress. We are waiting for your letters to the editor with the attached photograph of the resulting outfit.

We also attached several patterns for popular sizes to the instructions. You can download and print them for free.

You will need:

Organza shangjans 150 cm wide; lining fabric 140 cm wide; decorative tape in a longitudinal strip 8.5 cm wide; satin ribbon 0.60 m 4 cm wide; 1 40 cm long concealed zipper and special foot sewing machine for sharpening it.

Allowances:

On the seams, along the cuts and on the hem of the bottom - 1.5 cm.

Open:

From organza shangjans:

  • Cup 2X
  • Stitched belt with 1x fold
  • Backrest with 1x fold
  • front panel with a fold of 1x
  • Back panel with 1x fold
  • 2 back straps 25-25.5-26-26.5-27 cm long and 6 cm wide, ready-made 3 cm.

From lining fabric:

  • Cloth with 2x fold
  • As well as parts 1, 2 and 3.

How to sew an empire style dress with your own hands

Fold each back strap (s) in half lengthwise, face side inside, and grind longitudinal cuts. Turn the straps inside out and sweep to the upper cuts of the one-piece front straps with cups.

Fold the cups from the main and lining fabrics in pairs with the front sides and grind the cuts of the armholes, the upper cuts of the front straps (grabbing the back straps) and cuts of the neckline. Cut the seam allowances to a width of 5 mm. Turn the lining to the wrong side, iron the edges. Sweep the bottom cuts and gather them together between the star marks.

Place the right cup on the left cup, aligning the lines of the middle of the front, and sweep the lower sections. Sew the cups to the belt, press the seam allowances down. Place the trimming tape on the stitched belt, pin and topstitch along the longitudinal edges to the edge.

Place the finishing tape on the back along the alignment line, pin and stitch along the longitudinal edges to the edge. Fold the lining with the right sides with the back and stitch the upper sections. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching. Fold the backing up and stitch on the seam allowances close to the seam. Do not turn the lining back to the wrong side yet.

Sew the right side seam on the top of the dress. Press back seam allowances.

Sew the right side seam separately on the skirt and lining panels.

Sweep the allowances of each seam together and press to one side. Gather the fabrics of the skirt along the upper cut between the star marks. Place the lining with the right side on the wrong side of the skirt and sweep to the left side cuts above the cut mark, as well as to the upper cut of the skirt. Sew the skirt to the top of the dress, press the seam allowances up.

Place the belt of lining fabric on the stitched belt seamy side to the seamy side, tuck and sew to the transverse seam allowances. Unscrew the back lining to the wrong side, tuck in and sew to the allowances of the right side seam and the lower transverse seam. Smear the lining to the left side cuts.

Sew a hidden zipper along the left side cuts of the top of the dress and the edges of the skirt slit. Tuck and sew on the upper ends of the invisible zipper. On organza panels, notch allowances at the lower end of the fastener. Below the invisible zipper, sew the left side seam on the skirt and lining separately.

Sew the bottom edge of the skirt with a tight, narrow zigzag stitch - see model 135. Overcast the bottom edge of the lining.

Pin the ends of the back straps under top edge back and after trying on, sew the ends of the straps by hand. Satin ribbon wrap around the left front strap and tie with a bow.

Empire style dress pattern for popular sizes

Marking

The size

Breast volume

Waist

Hips