Yarn types and spinning methods. Combed yarn
OBTAINING YARN. The yarn is received different ways in the spinning process. It is produced in the spinning mill. Spinning is a combination of the following technological processes: loosening; mixing and cleaning; scratching; folding and pulling; prespinning (thinning and twisting); spinning (final thinning and twisting). Cotton, linen, wool, silk and man-made fibers are used to make yarn. The yarn is processed as in pure form from these fibers, and in a mixture. There are 3 spinning systems: carded (the most common); combed; hardware (fastest).
CARD SPINNING SYSTEM. This system includes the following spinning processes: loosening, mixing and beating; carding; folding tapes; pulling tapes; prespinning; spinning. The carded spinning system is used for processing medium staple cotton and is the most common. This system produces yarns with a linear density of 15 to 84 tex. The raw materials used are medium-staple cotton, waste from cotton-spinning production (rags of canvases, ribbons, rovings, etc.), chemical fibers, short flax fibers, as well as waste from silk production.
COMBED SPINNING SYSTEM. The comb spinning system includes the same spinning processes with the addition of two processes: preparation for combing (folding and drawing); combing itself (combing out short fibers). This spinning system has some specific features. In order to avoid damage to the fine staple cotton fibers, less intensive loosening and scattering is used. The combed spinning system produces yarn from fine-staple cotton, long flax fibers, fine and semi-fine wool, silk, and chemical fibers. From these fibers, yarns of small thicknesses from 5.9 to 35.7 tex are produced. From combed yarn, fabrics are produced: taffeta, satin, poplin, crepes, gabardine, etc.
HARDWARE SPINNING SYSTEM. The hardware spinning process is the shortest. After loosening and cleaning, the raw materials are mixed - a mixture is obtained, which is mixed and additionally loosened on a pinching machine, then subjected to two-three-time carding. In contrast to other spinning systems, in hardware spinning, the last card does not form a ribbon, but a roving from which yarn is then produced on the spinning machine. As raw materials in hardware spinning, the following can be used: low-grade cotton, as well as various wastes obtained in the production of yarn by different systems spinning. In addition, it is possible to process blends of cotton with wool, staple chemical fibers, etc. Hardware yarn is produced by 50-333 tex from which the following fabrics are made - bikes, bumazey, drapes, gray cloth, etc.
STRUCTURE OF YARNS. The structure of the yarn is influenced by the length and thickness of the fibers, their unevenness according to these indicators, the distribution of fibers in the cross section of the yarn, crimp, hairiness, strength, curl intensity, and other properties. Yarn consists of fibers distributed more or less evenly along its length. The number of fibers can fluctuate in the cross section of the yarn. This depends on the thickness of the fibers that make up the yarn as well as the thickness of the yarn itself. As a result of twisting, the fibers wrap around each other. The cross section of the yarn is wrong oval shape approaching the circle. V single yarn the fibers are located mainly along helical lines with variable radius and pitch. The mutual arrangement of the fibers in the yarn is continuously changing. The fibers are not in one layer, they pass from layer to layer, i.e. from the center to the periphery and back.
Combed the yarn has a more regular structure than carded and service yarns. The fibers in it are sufficiently straightened, well oriented in the longitudinal direction, which provides the yarn with a small thickness, high strength and smoothness.
In hardware yarn the fibers are weakly straightened and poorly oriented along the longitudinal axis, which is the reason for its unevenness, high thickness, fluffiness and reduced strength.
Carded yarn in its structure, it occupies an intermediate position between combed and hardware. Carded yarns are the most common and have medium thickness, medium strength, satisfactory uniformity and insufficient smoothness.
Twisted yarn(single and multiple) is more regular in structure, and has a different structure: tubular, rod and corkscrew. With a tubular structure, the threads are located along helical lines. A rod structure is characterized by the presence of one or more strands straightened along the axis, while other strands twine around them. With a corkscrew structure, one or more threads along the entire length are axial, and the rest are wrapped around them.
Fancy yarns has various external effects and therefore its structure can be very diverse. A running thread of greater length than the core thread is located around the core thread along helical lines. The securing thread wraps around both the core and sweep threads, fixing their position relative to each other and relative to the securing thread.
Reinforced yarn has a core that is in a central position. It is evenly wrapped along its entire length with various fibers that form a shell. Good covering is ensured by the content in the casing of 65-80% of the fibers that form the reinforced yarn.
Textured yarn consists of a mixture of differently shrinkable fibers, has increased bulk, friability, fluffiness.
YARN PROPERTIES. The properties of the yarn depend on the fiber composition, linear density, structure, production technology.
Combed yarn has a low linear density (thickness), increased uniformity of properties, smoothness and gloss.
Carded yarn has an average linear density, good strength and uniformity of properties, small fluffiness.
Hardware yarn has a high linear density, less uniformity of properties. The yarn is loose, soft fluffy.
The yarn is uniform and blended. Homogeneous yarn is produced from fibers of the same type, for example, cotton, linen, wool, etc. Blended yarn is produced from a mixture of fibers different kind(cotton with viscose fibers, or wool with nitron fibers, etc.). There are advantages and disadvantages to mixing fibers into yarns. The use of artificial fibers in blended yarn improves its hygroscopicity and fingerprint, but, however, reduces its strength, durability, dimensional stability of materials and products. The use of synthetic fibers in blended yarn increases its strength, elasticity, elasticity, wear resistance, dimensional stability, but reduces hygroscopicity, increases electrification and contamination.
Textured High Bulk Yarn after giving it volume, it has increased bulk, friability, fluffiness, low thermal conductivity, and a tendency to pilling.
Properties twisted yarn also depend on the fibrous composition, structure, production technology. Depending on changes in these factors, the properties of the spun yarn may change.
Page 1
Cotton harsh twisted cord and combed yarn (GOST 6904 - 83, Table 9.1), used for insulating winding wires and other purposes in cable industry, is made from certain varieties of cotton.
Cotton harsh, twisted, cord and combed yarn (GOST 6904 - 70, table 8 - 4), used for insulating winding wires and other purposes in the cable industry, is made from certain grades of cotton fiber. According to its physical and mechanical properties, the yarn is divided into grades; supreme, first, second and third; depending on the purity, the yarn is divided into three classes: A, B and C, determined according to the approved photo standards.
| Torsion day scales. |
The fineness of the combed yarn is characterized by the number of skeins weighing 560 yards and weighing 1 pound.
In addition to being used in the form of combed yarn, as well as in knitwear, cupram is used in significant quantities in carpet production; for this purpose, a special fiber of low numbers is produced - 640, 410, 300, 225 with a cutting length of 100 mm. This fiber is known as cupram TX. Cupram TX is a cheap fiber, has sufficient elasticity, can be easily dyed bright colours and little dust pollution. With regard to the contaminated one, it should be noted that the lower the number of elementary fiber (copper-ammonia and any other), the less contaminated products.
This heading covers combed (worsted), single or multi-ply (spun) yarns, i.e. obtained by spinning combed wool roving.
Cotton sewing thread are produced from high-quality combed yarns of 3, 6, 9 and 12 additions. The threads are harsh, matte and glossy; in color, the threads can be white, black and colored.
The USA uses 610 gsm twill from combed yarns containing 85% wool and 15% nylon staple fiber. The mixture - staple nylon fiber, viscose staple fiber, angora wool - is used to make clothes for the tropics. Flags made from a blended yarn (25% wool and 75% nylon staple fiber) last ten times longer than pure wool flags.
Cotton and wool yarn high numbers are produced by the combed method of spinning (combed yarn), medium numbers - by a carded method (carded yarn) and low numbers - by hardware or carbon monoxide. The most widespread hardware woolen and cotton yarn.
Faybrolene VS is a very good fiber for the production of suiting fabrics from worsted and combed yarns and is used for these purposes in a mixture with cotton or viscose staple fiber. Faybrolen VS can also be used for the manufacture of evening wear or for fabrics dyed in medium and dark tones... Since the fiber is treated with chromium salts during the production process, it has a reduced flammability.
In addition to these, combined fabrics are also produced in which the warp is made of combed yarn.
Shoddy (wool flap) and mungo (fiber from recycled flap), obtained by plucking from hardware or combed yarn or flap.
The length of the staple fiber intended for a mixture with cotton ranges from 40 to 45 mm, with wool for combed yarn - from 75 to 80 mm, for wool spinning with coarse wool- from 120 to 150 mm.
The presence of a cavity inside the fiber also increases, apparently, the resistance of the fiber to bending, affects the stiffness of the fiber and thereby the elasticity of the staples, increases the fullness of the touch of the combed yarn and textiles obtained from it. Hollow fiber with air inside has improved thermal insulation properties.
The shrinkage that the fiberboard undergoes during heating makes it possible to use this fiber in a mixture with wool for the manufacture of fabrics that do not need rolling. The introduction of a fiber into the composition of combed yarn in the manufacture of heavy fabrics for coats makes it possible, due to the shrinkage of this fiber during heat treatment, to exclude roll. In this way, fabrics of the desired density can be obtained. Blankets made from a mixture of fiber and wool do not need a roll.
Good day! We often choose clothes according to outward signs- color, shape, fashion. But we don’t even think about how the production of threads, fabrics begins ... I suggest that you familiarize yourself with this useful information as types of yarns and spinning methods.
Yarn is a textile thread that is made by twisting individual fibers. Spinning is all the process that produces yarn from pulp. The choice of spinning method and the type of yarn depends on the length and thickness of the fibers. There is a combed, carded and hardware ways spinning.
Spinning takes place in spinning mills. Only natural textile fibers (cotton, wool, linen) are spun, due to the relatively short length of their fibers. The only exceptions are staple man-made fibers, since they are the shortest.
Carded spinning is essential for cotton and staple fibers. This method uses cotton middle length.
By combed way long fibers of cotton, natural silk and wool are processed. The result is a fine, uniform, dense and smooth yarn.
Short fibers of wool and cotton are processed by a hardware method. With this processing, hardware yarn is obtained, which is loose, uneven in thickness, thick and fluffy. To begin with, several operations are performed, during which the fiber is cleaned, straightened, divided into individual fibers, combed and then twisted into yarn.
The fibers are delivered to the spinning mills in bales weighing 125 - 170 kg. This fiber contains many impurities, the finest fibers are tangled and crumpled. In this form, the raw material is not suitable for spinning.
Basic spinning operations:
Loosening and scattering carried out with all three types of spinning. Pieces of compressed fibers under the blows form a loose consistency and impurities are slightly removed.
Carding is performed for the final removal of impurities and separation of the scraps into individual fibers.
Align and Pull produced on tape machines, for leveling the thickness, several belts are connected into one. As the ribbon passes between the rollers of the draw frame, it gradually becomes thinner.
Pre-spinning is carried out on roving frames, where from the belt, by stretching and weak twisting, one obtains roving.
Self-spinning occurs on spinning machines. On this stage the final stretching of the roving, twisting and winding of the yarn takes place.
Applicable wet and dry spinning.
Cotton, wool, natural silk waste, staple fibers are spun dry. Flax fibers are spun wet and dry.
At wet spinning produces a thinner and denser linen yarn, in order to soften the pectin substances, the roving is passed through baths of hot water.
The number of operations involved in the spinning process depends on the spinning method. The simplest is hardware (there are no processes for processing tape and roving - after carding, spinning follows).
The longest and coarsest woolen fibers are processed by coarse-combed spinning, resulting in a dense and stiff yarn. Medium fine wool length goes into finely combed spinning - formed fine yarn with a slightly fluffy surface. Coarse and semi-coarse wool of medium length can be processed using a semi-comb spinning system (no combing). The result is a semi-combed yarn with a comb-like appearance. When spinning wool, the fibers are often blended. In case of machine spinning, wool fibers may include: factory wool, reconstituted wool, cotton, staple fibers. If the fibers are mixed with spinning, then it is done before carding. The staple yarn, due to the uniformity of the fibers, turns out to be even and smooth in length and thickness.
This short article is addressed primarily to newcomers to the printing industry. When anyone starts a T-shirt printing business, they are faced with the acute question of finding a good supplier.
In this article, we'll talk about colored cotton T-shirts that are perfect for or silk screen printing.
What is a good T-shirt? In simple terms, this is an easy-to-wear and maintain item that does not lose its properties during use - it does not fade, does not stretch during washing, and does not become covered with lint and pellets. At the same time, it is highly desirable that the T-shirt is not very expensive.
How not to get lost in the ocean of offers on the market, what is carded or combed yarn is the topic of this conversation.
Just want to upset you a little. In that capitalism with a Russian face, in which we now live and work, many sellers are not at all familiar with the words "honor" and "honesty". And often the information about their products does not correspond to reality.
Nevertheless, it will not hurt you to know the terms that characterize the knitted fabric.
By far the most the best way to test the T-shirts is to buy a small batch and test it in person. Many do just that and, having found "their" supplier, work with him.
For beginners, a few simple tips will help.
We are looking for a supplier of t-shirts
It's good if the seller is near you. You can always come to the warehouse or office, touch and touch the products, buy several copies for trial.
It is worse when there is no such supplier nearby. Then you have to look for it on the Internet. And here it is desirable to be at least a little savvy. I myself need a supplier of high-quality and inexpensive T-shirts, so I will look with you.
So, suppose I found an interesting site with a proposal for the sale of T-shirts, tops, sweatshirts, T-shirts.
First of all, of course, I rate it appearance... As a rule, serious sellers do not spare money for the creation, design and promotion of their sites. A good, high-quality site indirectly tells me that the seller has come to this market seriously and for a long time. If the site is pleasant - put a "plus" on it and move on.
Now I move on to exploring the assortment. The more styles, models and colors - the better! After all, T-shirts are different - women and men (unisex); with long sleeve, short or none at all; with a round or v-shaped front, etc.
If the seller a good choice- he has one more "plus" in the piggy bank.
I just want to see the price of T-shirts! Well, let's take a look out of the corner of our eye. If the prices did not scare you and seemed adequate, we continue to research the site and its products!
We look at the quality of the fabric of T-shirts
When choosing T-shirts for printing, you should pay attention to two properties of the fabric from which they are made - its density and the type of yarn from which the canvas is made (carded or combed).
The density of the fabric is measured in grams per square meter(g / m²). Just like paper. More thick fabric definitely more expensive.
Here it is important to know what purpose your T-shirts will serve. If for promotions (one time) - you can take thinner and cheaper T-shirts with a density of 120 g / m². For daily wear and frequent washings the fabric should be chosen more dense - 150-180 g / m².
But, in addition to the density of the knitwear, it is important to know the type of yarn from which it is made. Most often, when sewing T-shirts and T-shirts, knitwear of two types of weaving yarn is used - cooler surface and interlock... Moreover, the first is more often.
When knitting knitted fabric the yarn used is different in the way of spinning - carded or combed.
Combed yarn- the thinnest, smoothest, even, densest and strongest yarn of the longest fibers.
Carded yarn differs from combed in less uniformity, greater looseness and less high tensile strength. Medium length fibers are used for carded yarns.
There is also hardware yarn, the worst in quality - loose, fleecy, uneven in length. But for production nice t-shirts it is usually not used.
As you can imagine, the length of the fibers of the yarn directly indicates the quality of the T-shirts. The longer the fibers, the longer the surface of the fabric will remain flat and smooth, despite a large number of washings. But short fibers - these are the very "fibers and pellets" which are replete with a cheap T-shirt.
T-shirt sewing assessment
It is also very important to evaluate the quality of sewing products. In particular, you should pay attention to the processing of seams, stitching of the bottom of the T-shirt and sleeves. Of course, it is not possible to do this in absentia on the Internet, but many sellers, when they have something to boast about, post photos of their T-shirts on the site with a very detailed description of all the seams and elements of clothing. If such photographs are present, this is a good sign!
Many cheap jerseys are literally crooked! There are T-shirts made for thick koloboks or, conversely, for thin lanky Don Quixotes. This is because they are not sewn by professionals and according to crooked patterns. Printing on these T-shirts is a real torment. And wearing them, probably, too.
Again, I repeat that it is difficult to evaluate the quality of the purchased product in absentia, but you can pay attention to the detailed size table. Serious sellers make sure to provide it on their sites. There you will see detailed description each size with decoding in length, width and other parameters.
T-shirts price
As I already mentioned, there are quite a few sellers on the market who are not honest. Therefore, be on the alert. If you are offered T-shirts made of combed yarn with a density of 180 g / m² for only 70 rubles apiece, most likely they are trying to deceive you. Unless, of course, this is the price for a carriage :-)
Necessarily where we discuss suppliers of t-shirts and prices for their products. If you have anything to add to this interesting topic or you have a question - go to the forum, register and leave your messages!
This is all that I briefly wanted to tell you. Delve into the jungle knitwear production neither you nor me, I think, should not. But being a little savvy when choosing a wholesale T-shirt supplier won't hurt all of us!
Burette yarn dealer
Buret silk is a very soft dense yarn without shine and with small interspersed knots, - real find for connoisseurs of everything natural and environmentally friendly. Being, in fact, a "waste" of silk production, it contains great amount the most nutrients harvested from the silkworm cocoon. It is spun from short fibers - parts of a cocoon that do not unwind into thin long threads. For this reason, brown yarn turns out to be slightly embossed and at first glance may seem coarse and tough, but if you touch it, you will be surprised how delicate it is.
The name itself comes from French word"Bourrer" meaning to fill. Previously, high quality pillows and blankets were stuffed with this material.
Yarn dealer about P rye SHETLAND
Made from 100% Shetland sheep wool
This is one of the British breeds from the Shetland Islands, located in the North Sea between Scotland and Norway (Shetland-County of Scotland).
Most of the sheep are wild; they graze freely on the hills and the coast; feed on heather and seaweed ... The wool from the sheep is not sheared, but combed off within a year. Thanks to these conditions, a soft, silky and beautiful coat is obtained.
The term "Shetland sheep wool" is commonly used with the following adjectives: pure, natural, real, confirming that the wool is really from Shetland Islands, and not just wool with similar characteristics.
Carded yarn dealer
Carded yarns are twisted fibers that have not been combed. They are made from short fibers, so the yarn is fluffier, less smooth than combed, and has an uneven surface. It is used in the knitting and weaving industry. The strength of this yarn is less than that of combed
Carded yarn products are soft, have matte shade, absorb moisture, breathe well.
Carded yarn has a number of advantages over combed - a higher percentage natural ingredients in the composition of carded yarn will cost significantly less than a similar composition in combed yarn. It is lighter than combed, which affects the cost of production, at the same time the products from it are warmer. To achieve the same warmth effect from combed yarns, you need to produce a thicker piece that will be heavier. Carded yarn is pilling less, and not in the form of spools, but in the form of fluff, which can be easily removed. By tactile sensations carded yarns are softer and fluffier. BUT! Carded yarn requires finishing and washing - all of it good properties appear only after washing - at home this is an ordinary laundry soap - it acts as an alkali - then washing in a shampoo for wool and rinsing (I wash without alkaline soap product after washing by hand and spinning at low speeds in the machine, it acquires a new life - all the charm of carded yarn comes out - lightness, softness and fluffiness!