Clothes sewn in blood, or what is the real price of your brand new clothes. Where Adidas, Nike and other sports brands are made
Atelier made by a Dutch banker, who began to lack in Moscow business wardrobe- and decided to fill it himself. Costume - from 25 thousand rubles
Photo: Maxim Sher
Ekaterina Lopatkina and Paul Commander, co-owners: “The main disadvantage of factory production is that everything is sewn to the “average person”. Many have to then give the thing to the tailor to adjust the length of the sleeve and deepen the tuck. Personal tailoring allows you to avoid these inconveniences. They visit us completely different people- but mostly those who need to wear a suit for work. Although there are many orders for weddings and other bright events, including from people who do not wear suits every day, but want, for example, a plaid jacket or “dog tooth” with colored patches on the sleeves. Or just saw new suit on Harvey Specter main character series "Suits". - Approx. ed.) and now they cannot do without it.
We want to instill Russian men, first of all, the correct cut, rid them of the habit of wearing a suit and shirt 2-3 sizes larger, too long shapeless trousers and wide sleeves. Well, yes - the suit can be not only black and dark gray. In general, a black suit in the office is bad manners. For a black suit, a man has only two events in his life - a wedding and a funeral.
Made-to-measure - the technology we work with - involves taking measurements based on a system of test patterns. In bespoke technology, tailoring is done by one tailor who builds the piece by hand. Here too much depends on the personality of the tailor. Well, in general, the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure can be identified by no more than 5 percent of professionals. And for this difference you will have to pay five times more. And sometimes at ten.
Indever
Russian company with studios in five cities of Russia. They are already sewing suits, jackets, shirts, coats, trousers and bags, they are going to make jeans, ties and shoes. Costume - from 25 thousand rubles
Photo: Maxim Sher
Konstantin Efimov, commercial director: “One of my partners is from the construction business, I am from the telecommunications business, and the third is from the public sector. It all started when our CEO met the father of the owner of a Dutch tailoring company, Munro Tailoring. He convinced him that the partnership with us would be very successful - and we launched. Hopes were justified: the Dutch have 300 partners in different countries, and in two years we have come to the point that we already account for 10 percent of their turnover. Then we had the idea to make an atelier that would completely do men's bow, - soon we will sew our own ties, bags, and shoes. This niche - total look- the market is empty.
At first, we learned to take measurements - thanks to the Dutch, they provide a technology that allows you to do it yourself. We trained on friends - at first they had to spend 3-4 hours in the fitting room (now it takes no more than 30 minutes to take measurements). True, each of the three of us sees differently how a suit should fit. But this is the essence of individual tailoring.
Men are becoming more free in their choice of colors - they began to order bright checks and stripes, light suits, tuxedos and even red jackets from us. The Russian client is more picky about the details: how the stitch should go, how the button should be sewn, how well the loops are stitched. Our clients surprise us all the time. Once one of them ordered 46 shirts at once, and the next day he came again with the words: "I want 10 more." Another client sewed a suit for us and once returned with a torn leg. I offered to make him shorts. He was surprised, thought, looked at the sketches - and as a result agreed. Now he wears these shorts in the summer with a jacket.
We purposefully chose a location for the studio in the City - everyone who works here wears suits; they can come down to us during lunch and order.”
Bond & Stinson
Heavily packed atelier on Savvinskaya embankment, made by former financiers. Costume - from 24 thousand rubles
Photo: Maxim Sher
Evgeny Nekrashevich, CEO: “Men don't like to go shopping. They just want everything to be right. Hence their loyalty to bespoke tailoring. When we came to this business from consulting, all our colleagues advised us not to work with women: they are capricious. We didn't.
The main problem is that people in Russia don't like to wear suits. A person buys something that is more or less sitting, and after business meetings puts on his favorite jeans and hoodies. In England, if you are without a suit - it's like not shaving, bad form. We are offended that this is not the case - my colleagues and I always wear suits, because this is the most beautiful thing that a man can wear.
When a person first enters the business, he usually has two suits. Then two or three. Rarely anymore. And in the same England, when a person earns well, six suits is the norm. One tuxedo, one summer, one deuce and so on. But six is not the limit. It happens that more than ten buy. We call these fashion freaks, and these are ideal clients, of course. It's like girls choosing shoes - why limit yourself to one when you can get the second for a normal price?
The two main color standards are gray and blue. Unfortunately, people rarely dare to do otherwise. In winter, in general, almost everyone chooses gray. Subconsciously, probably: the mood deteriorates, it’s dark around, and everyone mimics like hares. But still there are things for which it's a shame. Let's say flannel - we have in the winter big selection on this fabric. It seems to me that this gives a winter look, warmth and comfort, but they rarely take it - they say, colleagues will not understand. Well, yes, his colleagues are all dressed in the same gray suits, and he will come so smart, in flannel, and they will point fingers at him. God forbid, they will also be called gay for the fact that he takes care of himself. I'm sorry we don't like the pocket square, it's considered to be a show off. If our men tried to look like this, it would only beautify life. Girls, on the other hand, can afford bright elements in their bow - why can’t a man?”
Legole
Mainly an online atelier - you can make your own shirt design here directly on the site. But to take measurements internally is still more reliable. Suit - from 30 thousand rubles
Photo: Maxim Sher
Roman Sobachevsky, co-founder: “This business arose simply because we ourselves failed when we were looking for clothes for ourselves. First they sewed men's shirts and sold online. Then they realized that it was wrong to work online, because clients are not very good at taking measurements of themselves, and they opened a showroom. And then they added costumes and made an atelier.
There is no production in Russia that would combine the quality of individual tailoring with the cost of mass production. Neither now, nor in the Union was not. On the other hand, take a suit Hugo Boss: the price at the exit from production is $ 150, and it reaches the buyer many times more expensive. And such a margin is not uncommon, it is a very profitable (albeit very competitive) business. It turns out that a person for a thousand dollars buys not so much a suit as a brand, a store and a beautiful wrapper. And with individual tailoring, you can sew a much better product for the same price. A well-fitting, custom-tailored suit is heaven and earth compared to ready-made suit. This is such a delight, this is such happiness, the client is surprised how he used to live without it. Good tone, as we believe (and how we try to convey to customers) - this is without overkill, without too much personalization. Wherein vivid image achieved through small, but very well-chosen details.
Sometimes people come up with very elaborate monograms. Well, for example: “And embroider me, please, Gucci!” - and such a shirt goes to the village. We had one client, a poker player, he had a special word, such a “spell” that he wanted to have with him when he sat down to play, and we embroidered him inside on the cuff of his shirt. Such invisible things work well. No one knows about their existence, except for the owner, and they please him without attracting prying eyes. One fellow entrepreneur made himself a jacket, and under the collar bright color asked me to embroider “Fuck you”: he says if they refuse me somewhere, I will turn up my collar and leave proudly.
Now people have begun to understand that made-to-measure is cool, but 10 years ago they wore a suit, shirt and socks from Hugo Boss. Now they already understand - if you spend money, you should sit well. A man comes to me, says: "Roger, look, I bought myself a Brioni suit for 250 thousand." And the suit is simply no, even though it is well sewn from good fabric.
In the Soviet Union, everyone knew how to sew, and people inherited each other good taste. Therefore, people at the fitting ask questions that we have not thought about. Three days ago there was a fitting, the man looked, and then said: “You know, it seems to me that the right shoulder seam is 2-3 mm away from the left shoulder seam". We all looked at each other - well, this handmade, such clarity should not be. Checked - and indeed. Abroad, they are not so attentive to details; it is easier to work with foreigners.
Now the fashion has gone to very tight suits - it's terrible, in my opinion. Or, for example, there is universal rule: the length of the jacket should be such that it covers the pockets. And now they began to sew short jackets. When I look at such a suit, I see that it looks ridiculous, instead of creating solidity. If people start dressing like this, we will move away from the basics, from the classics.
A man needs 7 to 10 suits to wear any suit no more than twice a week. I studied at an English school, and when I was 7 years old, I already knew how to tie a tie. I only have 25 suits in my wardrobe. This, it seems to me, is more than necessary - so I promised myself that I would order less. And then at home I have such a wall - and on it are suits, suits, suits, shirts, shirts, shirts ... My wife is already saying: “Roger, stop!”
Find out which popular brands in Ukraine are made in China, and who sews in Russia and Ukraine.
© Getty Imagesfinance.tochka.net I found out where the clothes popular among Ukrainians are made. The most common brands - both European and domestic - fell under the scope of journalists.
Benetton
The company was founded in 1960, the city of foundation is Treviso (Italy). The company was founded by Luciano Bennetton together with his sister Julianna. When Luciano was 18 years old, his sister Giuliana knitted him a bright yellow sweater, which attracted attention on the street, since in those years only wealthy older people could afford knitwear, and their colors were dull. Therefore, it is not surprising that Luciano's yellow sweater was envied by his friends. Thinking that sweaters could make money, Luciano sold his accordion and bicycle to buy his sister knitting machine, for which he went to Milan. The first sweater a neighbor bought from the Benettons was sky blue. And the first collection of Benetton sweaters, which numbered only 20 pieces, was called Tres Jolie, which means "very cute" or "nice" in translation. A year later, the family began to sell 20 sweaters a week.
Today, the Benetton chain of stores is widely known. Men's, women's and children's collections. Own brands companies: United Colors of Benetton, Sisley , Playlife, Nordica, Prince, Killer LoopAndroller blade.
Junker- Turkish brand youth clothing for men and women. Junker was established in Istanbul in 1991. Its activities began with a few machines and a minimum number of employees. From the first day of its foundation, the company has been producing bright outfits at competitive prices. Thanks to this approach, in just two and a half years, Junker has become the fastest growing company in Europe.
Spanish manufacturer of men's and women's clothing. The brand is owned by the Inditex Group, which also owns such brands as: Massimo Dutti, Pull and Bear, Oysho, Uterqüe, Stradivarius and Bershka. Zara was founded in 1975 by the Spaniard Amancio Ortega in the city of A Coruña. Prior to that, Amancio worked as a salesperson in a clothing store. The first Zara store sold twin models of well-known brands.
In the early 1980s, Ortega began to look for new solutions: he wanted to release more than 2-3 collections per year, as most brands did at that time. Zara's instant fashion became so popular that the day the goods were delivered was called "Day Z", and the assortment of stores was updated every 2 weeks. In this regard, buyers were forced to visit Zara stores more often, as the collections changed rapidly.
mango- spanish brand fashionable women's and menswear. It was founded in Barcelona in 1984. Its creators were immigrants from Turkey, two brothers Ayzak and Nakhman Andik. As planned, Mango brand was intended for women with an average income who prefer to be bright and stand out from the crowd. Although the brand was originally conceived as a women's brand, now the company also produces clothing and accessories for men.
Marks & Spencer
Marks & Spencer- English brand of men's, women's and children's clothing. The company is the largest British clothing manufacturer, and is included in the TOP-50 of world brands. The founder of Marks & Spencer is a Jewish emigrant from Belarus, Michael Marks, who opened Marks Penny Bazaar in the English port of Hartlepool, where at first he sold various rubbish like pins and buttons. In 1884, Marx moved to live in Leeds, where fate brought him together with Thomas Spencer. Having met, they decided to unite their two businesses and established on their basis new company, calling her Marks and Spencer.
Terranova
Terranova- italian brand youth clothing, founded back in 1961. The brand appeared on the market thanks to Teddy S.p. Its founder and CEO is Vittorio Tadei. Terranova famous wide choice casual wear both for women and men. The products are aimed at young people who follow fashion and have an average income. Collections with the latest trends in the fashion world are of pretty good quality.
Ukrainian and Russian brands
Kira Plastinina
Kira Plastinina born June 1, 1992 in Russia, is the daughter of a well-known Russian businessman Sergei Plastinin, a major shareholder of Wimm-Bill-Dann. She began to draw clothes from a young age, at first she dressed dolls. And then her father somehow approached her and asked if she liked to draw clothes, after Kira's positive answer, he began to invest in the development of a network of studio stores. The first store opened in Moscow in 2007.
Plastinin invested about $35 million to build a network of stores in the CIS, and the same amount to open stores in the US. However, in the US, the business did not justify itself and in 2009 declared bankruptcy. At the same time, shops in the CIS countries work quite comfortably. Kira herself calls her style - art-glamour-sportlive-casual.
oggi- a company producing women's and men's clothing Russian designers from Saint-Petersburg. The name of the company was chosen based on the Italian word for "today". Today, fashion design is created in St. Petersburg and Paris.
Russian brand mainly outerwear. Translated from English word Savage means "savage" and in French means "unbridled". The company also owns brands: People, Lawine. The Savage brand appeared on Russian market in 2000. At the beginning it was sewn under this brand outerwear, thus the company has chosen a niche for itself as a manufacturer of warm clothing.
Sela
Russian-Israeli company for the production of women's, men's and children's clothing founded by Boris Ostrobrod. Sela was founded in 1991. Then, being a St. Petersburg entrepreneur, Boris Ostrobrod immigrated to Israel and founded a design agency in Tel Aviv that designed clothes for local factories. After that, it registered its own trademark- Sela (translated from Hebrew means "rock").
An inconspicuous Stalinist five-story building is a new Russian manufactory of the 21st century. At the end of the house there is an atelier, where three seamstresses repair trousers in shifts, and, on occasion, sew suits from the customer's fabric. Nearby, in his own apartment, a former military man and his wife provide T-shirts and flared skirts to a small online store. He cuts, she sews on an Overlock machine for 30,000 rubles. 10 T-shirts and five to seven skirts come out a day - the machine paid off in a month.
The largest workshop is in the basement-bomb shelter. Hundreds of economic refugees from Central Asia scribble day and night knitted clothes cheerful colors, bed sheets, kitchen potholders. They sleep and dine with noodles here - until the nearest FMS raid. The service will send both workers and overseers home, and confiscate cars and unsold goods. Rangers underground workshop will be back in a couple of weeks. “Nothing, they will spend 200,000 rubles on new machines and recapture them in two days,” reassures Sergey Lyutsko, general director of the Iglovod company, which supplies equipment to seamstresses.
A house in a residential area in the south of Moscow is a model of the country's clothing market. Representatives of the segments that occupy about 80% of the tailoring market in Russia, according to the estimates of manufacturers surveyed by H&F, have gathered here. Sewing firms, like layers in a cake, ranked in importance. The cellar occupied the most productive mass market - stitched on hastily rags are sold in markets, fairs and supermarkets for 50-250 rubles. A little higher - cream and cherry - those who sew for young Russian designers with their own brands, online stores and individual customers.
Nikitin says that his production is in the black, but, remembering how much work it costs him, he becomes gloomy and annoyed: “In Moscow, everything is eaten up by the cost of rent and labor. Our net profit, when we sew on the side, is 4,000 rubles a day, it's ridiculous, that's how much a beggar at the metro earns.
Our net profit when we sew on the side, says Nikitin, is 4,000 rubles a day, it's ridiculous, that's how much a beggar earns near the metro
Roman MOSKALENKO
Model: Discipline
The creative cluster on the territory of the Young Guard publishing house was born on its own, without designer renovation, fashionable cafes and parties for show business stars and officials. A factory building built in the 70s with echoing pale green corridors has sheltered a dozen dance schools and photo studios, as well as six textile industries of various calibers. Basically, designers who are lucky with an investor sew their own brands here, or online stores like.
Illustrations: Natalia Osipova
August 1, 2015, 21:54Most American and European brands sportswear moved their production to countries with cheap labor force. Even some Ukrainian and Russian enterprises, when registering a brand abroad, sew clothes in China.
The history of this great german mark You can start with the birth of the founder - Adolf Dassler. After the First World War, the Dasslers decided to organize their own business, namely a shoe-making workshop. Already by 1925, Adi, as an avid football player, made himself the first pair of spiked shoes. It was forged for him by a local blacksmith, so the first boots were born. They turned out to be so comfortable that they began to be produced at the factory along with slippers.
In the late 40s, after the death of the head of the family, the brothers quarreled and divided the company. They divided the factories, each brother got one, agreed not to use the old name and logo of Dassler shoes. Adi decided to name his brand Addas and Rudy Ruda, but their names soon changed to Adidas and Puma respectively. The Dassler brand was successfully forgotten.
Columbia
Columbia Sportswear Company - American company manufactures and sells clothes for active rest(outdoor).
The company was founded by second-wave German emigrants with Jewish roots - Paul and Marie Lamfrom. The Columbia company was founded in 1937 in Portland and was engaged in the sale of hats. The Colombia Hat Company was named after the river of the same name, which flowed near the residence of the Lamfrom family.
The hats that Colombia sold were of poor quality, so Paul decided to start his own production, namely, sewing shirts and other simple work clothes. Later, the daughter of the founders made a fishing jacket with lots of pockets. It was the first jacket in the company's product range, its sales brought some fame to the factory.
Nike Inc. - American company, worldwide well-known manufacturer sporting goods. The headquarters is in Beaverton, Oregon, USA. The company was founded in 1964 by student Phil Knight. He was a middle distance runner for the University of Oregon. In those years, athletes had practically no choice in sports shoes. Adidas was expensive, about $ 30, and ordinary American sneakers cost $ 5, but my legs hurt from them.
To remedy the situation, Phil Knight came up with an ingenious scheme: order sneakers in Asian countries and sell them in the American market. At first, the company was called Blue Ribbon Sports and did not officially exist. Sneakers were sold literally from hands, or rather from Knight's van-minibus. He just stopped on the street and began to trade. During the year of its existence, the company sold sneakers for $ 8,000. Later, he came up with the Nike logo.
Nike is widely known for its "waffle" outsole, which allowed the shoe to be lighter and give a little more push while running. It was this invention that brought Nike to the forefront.
The history of Puma begins at the same time as adidas history, since the founders of the brands are brothers. (See Adidas history). Rudolf founded his own company in 1948 - Puma . In 1960, the world saw the company's new logo, the image of the cougar, adored by many felines.
For many years the company worked exclusively for athletes. By the early 90s, Puma found itself on the verge of bankruptcy. Consumers considered the brand imitative and inexpressive. The new management has put new target- to make the Puma brand the most creative and desirable. A key element in the renaissance was the decision to design shoes and clothing aimed at narrow segments such as snowboarders, racing fans and yoga enthusiasts.
Reebok is an international sportswear and accessories company. The headquarters is located in the Boston suburb of Canton (Massachusetts). It is currently a subsidiary of Adidas.
The reason for the founding of the British company Reebok was the logical desire of English athletes to run faster. So in 1890 Joseph William Foster made the first running shoes with spikes. Until 1895, Foster was engaged in the fact that he manually made shoes for top-level athletes.
In 1958, two of Foster's grandsons founded a new company and named it after the African gazelle - Reebok. By 1981, Reebok's sales reach $1.5 million, but the most big success Reebok was in next year. Reebok presents the first sports shoes specifically for women - fitness shoes, which are called FreestyleTM.
sportmaster
Demix is a brand of sportswear and footwear created by the Sportmaster chain of stores (sporting goods in Ukraine and Russia). The company was originally founded in Russia in 1992. Sportmaster came to Ukraine in 1996.
The Demix trademark appeared in 1994. As you know, in China, making clothes is cheap and the design is sportswear And the shoes are cheap. So on the shelves of Sportmaster appeared cheap sports uniform and shoes. The price for Demix products is at least 50% lower than for global brands like Adidas or Nike.
