MENSBY

4.6

A wristwatch is one of the most important accessories modern man... How to choose a watch. Types of watches.

A wristwatch is one of the most important accessories of a modern person. With their help, you can make a very favorable impression, showing your taste and awareness of watch subtleties.

But for this you need to learn how to choose the right watch.

Watch mechanism.

All watches can be divided into two types - mechanical watches and quartz watches. The essence of the difference is in what source of energy, feeding the mechanism, this or that watch uses.

The first type is a mechanical watch.

The spring plays the most important role here. When the spring begins to unwind gently, the pendulum starts to move, which at regular intervals acts on the wheel clockwork.

That, in turn, makes the hands on the dial move, counting the seconds and minutes.

In mechanical watches, the time is indicated only with the help of the hands. It is worth noting that mechanical watches have certain disadvantages - for example, they are dependent on weather conditions (excessive humidity is harmful to the spring of a mechanical watch), they are sensitive to dust, they have a relatively high movement error, they need to be wound every day.

And yet, the popularity of such watches is not diminishing in the least.

The second type is a quartz (electronic) watch.

Unlike watches of the first type, the power source for the movement in this case is a conventional or solar battery. In a quartz watch, the oscillating system of the movement is a pendulum, which is replaced by a quartz crystal.

An electronic generator based on a quartz crystal supplies stable pulses to a stepping motor, which drives the watch's wheel mechanism. He, in turn, moves the hands on the dial. Quartz watches, unlike mechanical ones, can have not only a dial with hands, but also a digital display. The accuracy of movement for most quartz watches is from +20 to -20 seconds per month. There is no need to wind up such a watch, and you can wear it sporadically, without worrying about it getting up.

Digital Watch.

In them, the pulses of the electric generator are converted into signals that are displayed on the clock display in the form of seconds and minutes changing on the dial.

Watch case.

The quality of the case of your watch directly depends on how long and how reliably it will serve you.

For example, the cheapest watches that China produces in abundance are made of aluminum. This material is too soft, which makes the case short-lived, easily damaged, and poorly processed aluminum can also stain the skin. And here plastic watch, no matter how strange it may seem, they can turn out to be very expensive and of high quality. Titanium alloy cases have also proven their worth. The more titanium in the alloy, the lighter and more expensive the watch is.

Men's Watch.

Well, it is the watch case that influences the way your watch looks. The shape and size of men's wristwatches in most models remains conservative, round, rectangular or square with rounded corners.

Oval or oval men's watches are rare. irregular shapes, moreover, adolescents are more often interested in such innovation.

Men's watches are rarely brightly colored, most often they are of restrained dark tones. Wristwatches, depending on the types of movement and added complications, can be massive and heavy. In this case, you need to be especially careful about the choice, because not on every hand such a watch will look good. And if their weight is more than 100 grams, then wearing such a watch for a long time can cause severe discomfort, and in some cases, problems with the wrist.

Ladies Watch.

With a women's watch, it is more difficult and simpler at the same time. Any lady should have several watches to match different outfits. The shapes, sizes and colors of women's watches are very diverse.

When choosing a women's watch, you need to pay attention to the weight of the case and how it will look on the hand of the person to whom it is purchased. Too massive or large watches will look ridiculous on thin wrists. Holders of a wide bone should not get carried away with a miniature watch, because this will make the female pen appear larger than it actually is.

For both mens and womens watches, make sure that the case back is slightly curved in all directions. This will make the watch fit better on your wrist.

Glass.

The material from which the glass is made is very important. It can be made of plastic (plexiglass), crystal, mineral glass and artificial sapphire.

The highest quality, durable and wear-resistant is an artificial sapphire, it is impossible to scratch it, it is difficult to break. Firms like Sapphlex and Tissot use it most often.

Mineral glass is in second place in terms of strength and reliability, and is most often found in wristwatches of an average price group, just like crystal.

Plastic is in last place in terms of strength. No matter how high quality it is, it is too easy to scratch it.

Bracelets.

As a rule, bracelets are made of the same material as the watch case, although exceptions are by no means uncommon.

Bracelets made of ceramic, silicone or plastic are not very durable and significantly reduce the cost of the product, so such straps should be left for children's and teenage watches.

Separately, it should be said about the strap made of a classic material - leather. Lovers of natural materials should prepare for the fact that their favorite leather watch strap will have to be changed. Within a year and a half, the skin will lose its former elegance. Another disadvantage is that the elastic leather strap is susceptible to adverse environmental influences and even slightly stretches in wet weather.

And yet the greatest variety is observed among metal bracelets. For example, brass is most often used for bracelets for women's watches, because this soft metal allows complex shapes and elements to be created. But due to its softness, the brass bracelet wears out rather quickly and the coating on it begins to peel off and crack.

Very good for making bracelets titanium, titanium alloy products are light, durable and warm to the touch.

But gold bracelets should be avoided, and not even because of the cost, but the weight of the product, which reaches 100 grams or more. Add in the weight of the watch case, and you get an idea of ​​the weight you will have to carry on your own wrist.

And the last thing - when buying a watch, choose watch salons with a well-known name and a well-deserved reputation. This way, you protect yourself from counterfeiting and can get professional advice from highly qualified sellers.

Why are some mechanical watches more expensive than some apartments? Why should they be worn without fail on the left hand? How is a chronometer different from a chronograph? Why are they even needed now, when the exact time will tell you at least an iron or a bicycle? the site has prepared for you the answers to the most important questions about wristwatches.

1. Why are some watches so expensive? What makes up their price?

There are two answers. First: manual labor. Each mechanical movement inevitably resembles the hands of a craftsman in the process of assembling, polishing, decorating, adjusting the balance, adjusting the stroke. And the work of a good master is highly paid. Moreover, the best watch houses assemble mechanisms twice. First, to check that all the details work perfectly in the ensemble. Then the mechanism is disassembled, the parts are polished, decorated and then assembled again. The most complex mechanisms of some models require up to 1500 "man-hours" only for assembly. Another couple of hundred man-hours are spent on finishing and hand decoration of the movement and case.

Second: expensive materials. Usually, the rarest metal alloys are used to make the most important parts of such watches (see below). The dials of these models are real masterpieces of painting, mosaic, enamel and jewelry art... Did you know that large pure rubies and emeralds cost much more expensive than diamonds because they are less and less common?

It's nano for you

The nanorevolution made it possible to work with components for watches at the atomic level, as well as to create cases and clockwork parts from previously unknown materials, many of which are much stronger and more expensive. precious metals... For example, more and more modern watches equipped with slopes, parts of which are made by photomanufactory method. A three-dimensional image of parts is loaded into the electronic brain of a photomanufactory reactor, which it literally begins to sculpt from atoms - silicon (Swiss) or nickel (Japanese). As a result, we have parts with perfect precision and structural homogeneity. DLC-coating (diamond-like carbon coating - hard, like a diamond, carbon fiber) reliably protects the case from damage, and it is applied as follows: the surface of the case or the rim is bombarded with atoms that penetrate inside for several millimeters. Seiko uses hard-polishing technology: the watch case is polished with a rapidly rotating emery stone, like the famous samurai katana swords - due to the tremendous temperature, the surface becomes stronger and begins to shine.

2. How long will a good watch live under the condition of correct, accurate, but still constant use?

A very long time. The clockwork is perhaps the most perfect technical unit that the human mind has created - in terms of reliability, durability, subtlety of work, and accuracy. Watchmaking museums are full of models that were created a couple of centuries ago and still work perfectly. But when they stop, it's hard to say for sure. Since the moment of its invention - and the first wristwatch was born in 1790 - too little time has passed for us to be able to check the maximum resource of such a mechanism. For comparison and some reference points, we will give an example from a related sphere: a tower mechanical clock installed at the Cathedral in Wells (Somerset, England) in 1380 worked without interruption until 2010. And in the end, the clock mechanism was replaced with an electric one, not because of a breakdown, but because all the masters who could serve them died out.

3. Can a watch be regarded as an investment tool?

You can, but if you are an expert in watchmaking and trends. True, even in this case, luck and intuition will be required. Watches from houses that conduct a competent auction policy are in special demand in the secondary watch market. These are, first of all, Patek Philippe, as well as Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and A. Lange & Sohne. However, even the most successful in terms of investment models do not show growth above 10% per year. Some real estate investments are much more profitable. On the other hand, if something happened, when you urgently leave for a foreign land, you can't put real estate on your hand, you can't put it in your pocket ...

4. On which hand should the watch be worn and why?

Watches (of course, not the ones with self-winding) love peace - this way they run more accurately and live longer. Therefore, it is better to wear them on a less active, non-working hand: if right-handed, then on the left, and vice versa. Yes, there are watches for left-handers: now many houses have launched the release of models where the crown and chronograph buttons are located not on the right, but on the left side of the case.

5. Which watch is better - quartz (electronic) or mechanical?

"Better" in this case is a subjective concept, you choose. We will only give you all the pros and cons of both options.

• Quartz
  Pros: Low price, light weight, high shock resistance, no need to wind up every day, higher accuracy under normal temperature conditions, simplicity and low cost of repair.
  Cons: show time, but not status, depend on the battery, lose accuracy at temperatures below 6 ° and above 40 ° C.
• Mechanics
  Pros: Full autonomy, Serve as status markers, less dependent on temperature drops, reliability.
  Cons: Price, price, price, you need to start regularly, the balance-spiral assembly is fragile and often breaks down, the high cost of repairs and regular (every 3-5 years) cleaning and lubrication.

The Japanese corporation Seiko has developed Spring Drive technology, a hybrid of mechanical and electronic watches. The standard self-winding module charges the accumulators, and instead of the traditional mechanical watches of the escapement and balance wheel, a "floating wheel" is installed here. It does not vibrate, but rotates at a speed of 8 revolutions per second, and the accuracy and number of revolutions is monitored by a laser device, which is endowed with the ability to accelerate or slow down the rotation of a floating wheel. Even in zero gravity, where mechanical and quartz watches exhibit significant deviations in accuracy, the Spring Drive Spacewalk has proven itself to be the best.

6. What is a "manufacture mechanism" and is it worth chasing after it?

"Manufacturing" means, produced at the watch house's own enterprise. Now many reputable companies have built their own manufactories and are proud of it. But just a few years ago, 90% of Swiss watches were fitted with one of three universal movements: ETA 2824-A2, ETA 2892 and the ETA / Valjoux 7750 chronograph. "Works like a Swiss watch." Watches with these movements can be repaired and serviced anywhere in the world. All of them were built in the 50s of the last century, technical flaws have long been identified and eliminated, and their reliability has been proven in millions of copies. And the reliability and accuracy of the newborn "manufactory" mechanisms have yet to be tested. But you can only repair them at the same manufacture that gave birth to them: many of the details are unique. In general, it's up to you.

7. What kind of watch should a man wear: round or square?

The shape of the watch was never a matter of fashion and did not have of great importance for watchmakers. What the client likes - let him wear such. Just monotonous forms can get bored one day. Maybe that's why such models as Santos de Cartier and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak enjoy huge success. Designers Louis Cartier and Gerald Genta initially laid the play of shapes in them: a barrel-shaped base, a strictly round case, but at the same time a tetrahedral or octahedron-like bezel. One point is emphasized: Do the movement and the case have the same shape? According to the Hamburg account, they should. It is not for nothing that great manufactories even prefer to close the mechanism with a metal case back if it does not have the required shape.

8. Strap or bracelet?

Metal bracelets are of course much more durable. And you can safely swim in them. But to some, they seem too heavy. Plus, if you have hairy hands, some bracelets take on the role of a depilatory without any anesthesia. As for the straps, especially those made of expensive alligator leather, they are, of course, beautiful and luxurious, but sometimes you sweat a lot to ruin them. Therefore, complex straps have gained popularity - on the outside there is a leather covering, and on the inside there is a durable water-resistant composite material. When choosing a strap, there are two things to keep in mind. First: in recent times manufacturers do everything so that you can buy replacement straps only from them. And the difference in the cost of a brand and a regular strap can be a couple of hundred euros. Second, when changing the strap, you need to take into account its width. If you cannot find the exact size, settle only for the one that is 1 mm wider. The master will definitely squeeze it into the mount. But you cannot take 21 mm instead of 22 mm - the watch will dangle.

Breitling Superocean 42 blue, water resistance - 1500m

9. What does it mean when they write on the clock: water resistance - 100 m? And sometimes 200 m? Is it really possible to dive to such a depth with them? What for?

Almost all watches are protected from moisture - one of the most serious enemies of the movement. In no case should the seal label be taken literally. The watch is checked as follows: water is poured into a special apparatus with a flask, a watch is placed in it and pressure is started to build up. If the pressure drops sharply, then the body is leaking. The indicator shows at what pressure it happened. In this case, it is generally accepted that 1 atmosphere corresponds to a dive to 10 m, provided that there is complete rest. That is, "100 m" only means that the watch will withstand a pressure of 10 atmospheres. But it must be borne in mind that these are not entirely honest numbers. For example, if you make a strong stroke in the water with a watch on your wrist, the body will experience a pressure of 7-9 atmospheres. Therefore, in such a watch you can only swim on the surface, and even then slowly and carefully. In watches with "water resistance of 30 m", you can only wash your hands very carefully. In hours "50 m" - to wash the car. And to go diving - only in models "120", and better "200" or "300 m".

10. What is a "class" of watches and what are they?

Manufacturers subdivide watches into complex, luxurious, business, sports, aviation, diving, designer watches ... But this classification is arbitrary, many watches fall into several positions at once. Take, for example, Rolex Daytona - "sporty", but in a platinum case with diamond inlay ("designer"?). Or the IWC Big Pilot Watch - in a huge case with additional protection from the electromagnetic field ("aviation"?), but at the same time with a tourbillon and a perpetual calendar ("complex"?). Without much doubt, one can only classify watches with the Grande Complication status, that is, "very complex": their movements are supplemented by 2-3 most expensive complications in production (the choice comes from the list: minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual and astronomical calendars and split-chronograph) ... They ask for them, as for a house with columns in a prestigious village, that is, several million euros - you cannot confuse it with anything.

Do you have a watch or a chronometer?

“Chronometer” is an honorary title given to very few watch models. Due to the fact that the force of gravity acts on objects on Earth, clocks in different positions run with varying degrees of accuracy. Put the clock on the nightstand with the dial up for a day, and the next day with the dial down. You will make sure that their average daily readings are different. The readings of the watches with the crown down and the crown up, as well as at 12 o'clock up and at 12 o'clock down ... Depends on the course of the watch and on temperature, since the materials from which the parts of the movement are made , have a different coefficient of thermal expansion. Chronometers have the right to refer to only those watches that are in different positions and at different temperatures run with an accuracy of –4 / + 6 seconds per day.

• Wristwatches: they have something to tell about themselves

  A watch for any fan of elite timepiecesand for every person who values ​​time, this is a purely personal thing, in some way dear. Wristwatches travel with us everywhere, silently embracing our wrist. Although why is it silent? In addition to the fact that the watch regularly tells us the current time, they are looking for an attentive listener in the person of their owner, since they actually have something to tell about themselves. I would like to note that a wrist watch is a fairly conscientious and honest speaker; it can talk about both its many advantages and disadvantages. Of course, a certain impetus to such a "conversation" is given to the watch by its manufacturer. This article is devoted to the main technical features of watches, which the latter possess and which can be read on the case, bracelet and other watch elements. There is also a large number of inscriptions, so to speak, "about nothing", which rather carry an advertising load and serve to "hook" a potential buyer of a watch. For example, a person's attention is most likely to be attracted by such inscriptions on watches as "super precision", "top quality", etc. These inscriptions are currently used extremely rarely, since the buyer has become more experienced and it is quite difficult to circle him around his finger.
  I will not talk here about various special engravings made by watchmakers on the cases of watch models according to the individual order of the client ("To my beloved husband", "On my birthday", "With love", etc.). I will only tell you an interesting case that happened with the pocket watch of American President Abraham Lincoln, who did not even suspect that he was wearing a time meter with a tiny inscription, a unique message engraved on a metal plate under the dial. In the 1850s, Lincoln acquired a pocket watch, which, much to his regret, broke, and the president was forced to return it for repair in 1861. It was then that the Irish watchmaker Jonathan Dillon made an engraving that read: “Jonathan Dillon, April 13, 1861. Fort Sumpter (sic) was attacked by the rebels on the indicated date. Thank God we have a government. " The inscription, which can only be read under a magnifying glass, speaks of the beginning of the Civil War of 1861-1865, and this secret message was announced many years later by modern researchers. Lincoln's clock is now in the National Museum of American History in Washington. So, dear reader, take a closer look at your watch - suddenly it starts talking to you!
  In no case should we neglect the information that our "manual" interpreters of time carry, and for some people these inscriptions remain ciphers, which we will decipher today. Let's listen carefully to what our wrist watches want to tell us.

  "Made in Switzerland"
  
  
  If the watch bears the inscription “Swiss made”, which means “made in Switzerland”, then, of course, you will be imbued with great respect for this time meter, since Swiss wristwatches are rightfully considered the best in the world, thanks to their quality and high precision. It is logical that practically from the beginning of the history of Swiss watchmaking, such watches have been pursued by numerous counterfeits. To combat the illegal issue of replica watches under the Swiss quality logo, several departments have been created in Switzerland, the main one of which is the Federation of the Swiss Industry. Also, a list of parameters for compliance with Swiss quality was indicated. So, if the watch bears the inscription "Swiss made", then, firstly, they must have a Swiss movement (at least 95% of the parts), secondly, be assembled in Switzerland and, thirdly, pass the final quality check in Switzerland ... I tentatively called these requirements the rule of three "W"! It should be said that today from the gigantic list of watch companies, not everyone can boast of full compliance with the rule of three "Sh", which, of course, is somewhat frustrating.
  For ardent fans of Swiss quality, who, however, are not ready to shell out a huge amount of money for a truly Swiss watch, there is a budget option... So, the inscription “Swiss movement” on the watch means that the movement was made in Switzerland (or, for example, “Japan movement” - in Japan), it passed the quality check in this country, but the watch case and assembly took place outside Switzerland. Often, the assembly location is also indicated on the watch case. The question immediately arises - is it possible to perfectly fit a non-Swiss case to a Swiss movement? The question remains open. "Movement" in English means a mechanism, but since it is quite long word, then the manufacturers most often abbreviate it to "mov (" t) "or to" eb "(" ebauches "- movement in French). Up to this point, of course, we talked about mechanical watches. But you can also see the inscription" Swiss quartz ", which means that the watch is a genuine Swiss creation, the watch mechanism is quartz and, of course, also Swiss. It turns out that" Swiss quartz "is equal to" Swiss made ". However, attention! Often not Swiss watchmakers use the inscription" Swiss quartz ", meaning only that the movement is made in Switzerland, and the watch itself is of foreign production. Therefore, I advise fans of quartz timepieces to be more careful in this case. "Swiss made" ("made in Switzerland") can also stand on the bracelet, telling us that the bracelet was made in Switzerland (possibly the inscription "Swiss wristlet" - Swiss bracelet) Words "Swiss made" or "Swiss parts" (parts - frequent and, elements) can also be located directly on various parts and elements of the watch, and not only on the dial or case back. Watches of exclusively Swiss origin may also have the inscription “Geneva” on the dial, most often under the brand's logo. Also, Swiss movements, marked with the inscription "Poincon de Geneve" or "Geneva Seal" (Geneva Seal), are considered the most accurate and reliable movements.

  From what, from what ...?
  
  Men's or women's wristwatch readily
  will tell you what materials they were made of. It remains only to correctly understand the "talking" walkers. So, the most common is the inscription "Stainless steel", which tells that the case or bracelet (depending on the location of the inscription) is made of of stainless steel... There is also a catch here: the inscription "Stainless steel back" does not at all indicate that the watch is completely made of steel - only the back is steel. What the rest of the watch is made of is anyone's guess. Therefore, it is best to try to find and read the following engraving - "All stainless steel" (literally - "all stainless steel"). Other materials for watches are marked with the following inscriptions: "Ceramic" (ceramic), "Carbon" (carbon), "Bronze" (bronze), "Titanium" (titanium, but "Titanium back" - a case back made of titanium), "Gold" (gold), "Silver" (silver), "Base metal case" or "Brass" (brass; by the way, brass can be determined by weight, since it is much lighter than steel), "Platinum" (platinum). The strap of luxury watches is most often made of leather, so the manufacturer sometimes marks the inside of the strap with the words “Genuine leather”.
  If you have noticed the inscriptions "Sapphire" or "Sapphire crystal" (sapphire crystal) on the watch, then the time meter is equipped with the most common scratch-resistant glass in luxury wristwatches. Sapphire crystal protects the dial, or replaces the back cover of the watch and has a special attractive shine. If the wrist watch is marked with the inscriptions "Crystal glass" or "Mineral crystal", then the dial is protected by a conventional mineral glass, and not crystal ("crystal" from the English. "crystal"), as some Russians may suggest, using the English-Russian dictionary. On the other hand, the question arises - why should the manufacturer mention absolutely ordinary glass, therefore the inscription "Crystal glass" ("Mineral crystal") is used extremely rarely.
  The inscription on expensive wristwatches “hand-made” (“handcrafted”) is considered very prestigious, which means, as our dear reader-polyglot has probably guessed, “made by hand”, the key word here is “hand” ). Finishing the movement, dial, skeletonization, etc. - if all these processes are carried out manually, the status and, of course, the price of a wristwatch increases significantly.
  Modern Swiss and world watch companies, developing wristwatches, provide the maximum convenience of reading information from the dial, even in the dark, by covering the dial objects with luminescent compounds. Glow-in-the-dark markers are mainly used in ascetic military style watches. Thus, the inscriptions "T-Swiss made-T" or "Swiss made T25" are signals that the watch has luminous elements - phosphors based on the tritium isotope. Some customers are wary of wearing radioactive-coated wristwatches. In vain, because the fraction of radiation emanating from tritium is so small that it is completely absorbed by the glass of the dial. Nevertheless, for especially suspicious customers who do not want to expose their health to the slightest risk, the watchmakers decided to cover the dials of their creations with a special safe substance - Super-Luminova. The plus of this composition is safety, the minus is the need to "recharge" the paint from light rays (the tritium solution does not need to be recharged, however, unlike Luminova, it can fade over time). So, if you still don't want to take risks, and the "firefly" watches attract you, then look for the inscription "L-Swiss made-L" (sometimes just "Swiss made") on the watch.
  It should also be noted that some innovative watch companies engaged in latest developments in the watchmaking field, patented their own special manufactory materials, which are designated with special inscriptions. A prime example the Italian watch company Anonimo, known for its innovative developments, among which the unique patented solution called Kodiak, which has water-resistant properties, with which Florentine experts process leather straps of men's wristwatches, is very popular. The men's wrist watch Anonimo has a strap with the inscription "Original Kodiak", which is an indicator High Quality.

  There is such a profession - to protect the "mechanism"!
  
  Many modern movements installed in wristwatches are distinguished by high complexity of execution and high cost of materials used. It is not enough to create a watch with an extra-complicated "heart", it must be reliably protected from influences external environment... Maybe you have ever noticed that fragile things, in this case a clock, tend to fall, for example, from a table or from a shelf, they can suddenly be dropped from your hands. And when you are not afraid to drop your watch, for some reason it falls much less often. Watchmakers are looking for various ways to protect wristwatches from unwanted shocks, using systems to "guard" the movement. The inscriptions "Antishock", "Incablock" on the watch case tell us that this model is equipped with special shock absorbers that protect the balance axis (the most sensitive part of the movement) from impacts. Currently, non-shock-proof watches are practically not produced (it is especially difficult to find elite men's wristwatches without a protection system), therefore, to be honest, these inscriptions are unnecessary "pathos", a mention of obvious things.
  Another "security" watch system is a special design of the case, thanks to which the watch is not afraid of exposure to magnetic fields. This design, which is in demand among aviators, railway workers and radio electronics, makes itself felt with the inscription "Antimagnetic" and guarantees the watch good health and long life.
  The most common way to protect a watch movement is to waterproof the watch case. This privilege is most often used by men's wristwatches, although you can also find women's models with a rather high water resistance index. Before choosing a model of a wristwatch you are interested in, you need to "talk" to it. The watch tells us the degree of water resistance using the letters "WR" (abbreviated from "Water Resistant" - waterproof). So, the designations "WR 30 m" or "WR 3 Bar" say that this watch will easily withstand the hit of accidental splashes of water, washing hands, light rain. Watchmakers do not recommend swimming in such watches.
  Other models of wristwatches tell us that they are water resistant to a depth of 50 meters (“WR 50 m”, “WR 5 Bar”), which will allow the wearer to shower or swim in the pool with the watch on the wrist. However, this degree of moisture protection does not guarantee the complete safety of the clockwork when jumping into the water, since the pressure may exceed the allowable 5 ATM for a short period of time, and your favorite watch will have to be taken for repair.
  The most suitable models for water sports, such as swimming, diving or diving several meters, are wristwatches with a water resistance level of 100 meters (“WR 100 m”, “WR 10 Bar”). However, deep sea exploration will cause the watch to break, so in this case it is best to use a timepiece.
  with water resistance from 200 meters and more ("WR 200 m", "WR 20 Bar"). For greater clarity of the phenomenon of water resistance I am describing, I will divide (referring to the existing GOST standards) all wristwatches into waterproof, waterproof and diving watches. The first includes watches that can withstand only a slight ingress of water, the second - models with a degree of protection up to 100 meters. And the latter is a diving men's wrist watch, "capable of withstanding immersion in water to a depth of 100 meters or more" (according to GOST). Such "water" models include watches that are capable of not letting moisture into the case when immersed in water, maintaining the stability of the functional parts of the time meter, and having resistance to temperature differences and excess water pressure. Many well-known watch companies are developing such super-moisture-resistant watches. Among them is the aforementioned Italian watch company Anonimo, which presented men's wrist watches from the Professionale series, the water resistance of which ranges from 1200 meters to 2000 meters. Models of Swiss manufacturers - "divers" - these are men's wrist watches Rolex Oyster Sea-Dweller, Azimuth Deep Diver, Breitling Avenger Seawolf Chrono Blacksteel and many others.
  Returning to the topic of this article, I want to note that some manufacturing companies instead of the words "meter (m)" or "bar" use another measure of length - foot ("foot", abbreviated "ft"), familiar to the British. The Russians who found an inscription on the case of a wristwatch, for example, "WR 99 FT", need to multiply given number by 0.305. After some simple calculations, we find out that the water resistance of 99 feet is equal to 30.195 meters. And the last thing that I would like to remind our reader about once again on the topic of "real" water resistance: meters, bars or feet indicated on the cases of wristwatches in no way correspond to the depth to which the watch can be immersed. Thus, I would not advise you to dive to a depth of 30 meters with a watch bearing the inscription “WR 30 m”, but you can wash your hands (however, without exposing the case to a strong stream of water).

  Listen to the heart of your watch

  Let's hear what the wrist watch will tell us about its main "organ" - the mechanism. Let's start with the obvious: if the time meter tells us "Quartz", then there is a quartz movement inside the case. The inscription “Automatic” means that a mechanical wrist watch is equipped with a self-winding movement that stores energy from the movement of the hand. Abbreviation "Cal." (from "Caliber"), followed by numbers and letters, indicates the caliber of the movement. The words "Power reserve" refer to a power reserve indicator, usually located on the dial or elsewhere on the case. Sometimes there are inscriptions "Autoquartz" and "Kinetic", which carry information that the battery of a quartz watch is recharged by hand movements.
  Interesting are the so-called regulator wrist watches, marked with the inscription "Regulateur". Such watches are distinguished by high accuracy of movement, since the indication of hours, minutes and seconds occurs on three independent additional counters-dials (for more details, see the article of this magazine “What regulators regulate”). Elite wristwatches are sometimes adorned with the proud inscription “Chronometer” (chronometer) or “Officially certified chronometer” (officially certified chronometer), which states that this watch work is an ultra-precise time meter, which is confirmed by a series of special tests of the movement, which took place in an independent research center. The certificate attached to such watches confirms all of the above.
  The work of the so-called co-axial escapement, developed by George Daniels and responsible for the accuracy of mechanical watches, can be appreciated in wristwatches marked with the inscription “Co-axial”, which is most often located on the dials of models.
  Perhaps one of the most intriguing elements of the movement are the stones, the number of which is marked on the case of mechanical watches with the inscription “jewels” (before this word there is a number - the number of stones in the movement, for example “25 jewels”). The word "jewel" with of English language translates as “ precious stone"- the British called it such a loud word for a reason given element mechanism, because the stones are responsible for stabilizing friction and reducing the degree of wear of the contacting surfaces of the watch mechanism. On a quartz watch you can see the inscriptions “2 jewels”, “1 jewel” or even “No jewels”, but this does not mean the low quality of the time meter, since in quartz movements By and large, stones are not needed, and the boards and wheels of such watches are often made of plastic to reduce the mass of surfaces.

  "Complicated" inscriptions on watches
  
  Finally, we have come to the most "difficult" - these are the inscriptions on
  wristwatches with different kinds complications or complications. First of all, the most popular modern complication, which has already moved from the category of unique to the category of standard, is the ubiquitous tourbillon, which few people can now surprise with, denoted by the word "Tourbillon". I think that the inscription "Chronograph" should not be deciphered in detail. It means that the watch has a chronograph function (two or more independent measuring systems). Also, the words “Fly-back (Split) Chronograph” tell us that this watch has a split-chronograph, that is, it has two seconds hands that start and stop independently of each other. Swiss wrist watches with repeaters - “musical” complications, which allow not only viewing the current time, but also listening to it, can be recognized by the inscriptions “Minute Repetition” or “Chime”. If you see the following designations on your watch: "Grande Sonnerie", "Petite Sonnerie", "Carillon" or "Jagemart", then do not be alarmed - this is different types great repeater, each one good and unique. In general, since I have already mentioned the "talking" watch, it should be noted that the men's wristwatch with repeaters is the pinnacle of watchmaking, deserving the highest marks. The number of "talking" hours can also be attributed to the clock with an alarm clock, denoted by the inscription "Alarm" (from English - "alarm clock").
  Wristwatches with astronomical complications are among the best, including "Moon Phase" (in French - "Phase de Lune") - the phase of the moon, "Dual Time" (double time) or "GMT" - the function of displaying the time of two o'clock belts at the same time. Using the dictionary, any watch lover will be able to understand that the inscription "Perpetual Calendar" is a function of a perpetual calendar, and the words "Equation of Time" mean the presence of the equation of time function, which is to calculate the difference between the generally accepted time scale, where the length of the day is throughout the year does not change (24 hours), and solar time. Dear reader can learn more detailed information concerning wrist watches-repeaters and astronomical time meters from our articles "Repeaters or talking clocks" and "Astronomical wrist watches - the way through the Universe", published in the watch magazine website.
  
  ***
  Summing up our kind of educational program concerning the inscriptions on wristwatches, it should be noted that all of the above designations are the most common and most important. In addition to those mentioned, there are several other inscriptions characteristic of a particular manufacturer of wrist watches (an example is the serial number engraved on the back of a wristwatch). This kind of "conversation" with a wristwatch is actually worth a good book, since the time meter can tell you a lot of interesting things about itself. One has only to "listen" to it carefully. After all connecting link"Relationship" with your wristwatch is a "conversation", which determines your choice in favor of a particular model.

  Despite the complexity of its design, mechanical watches remain one of the most reliable and durable mechanisms ever invented by man. History itself has ordered in such a way that this measuring device maintained accuracy in the harshest conditions. There is no point in going into the vast historical excursion in the article about caring mechanical watch, but nevertheless it is worth noting that their appearance is closely related to one of the problems of maritime navigation, while the well-known wrist watches appeared thanks to the wars of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Modern mechanical watches are reliable, albeit extremely complex, and therefore vulnerable to external influences a mechanism that requires some care.

  Vacheron Constantin watch without dial

  The main enemy of any chronometer, like any other complex device, is primarily a person. That is why the first most necessary, because an effective step for any watch owner should become familiarity with the instructions. No matter how trite this advice may sound, but it is he who is the most correct. Most manufacturers supply their products with precise instructions, which describe in detail design features care of mechanical watches are listed possible problems that may arise during operation, the desired periods for preventive examination, and also contains a complete list of categorically unfavorable factors. In a word, the instruction was written exactly with the aim that the owner could independently understand why his watch was created in the first place, what is undesirable to do with it, and what is absolutely impossible. Therefore, always read the instructions.

  If the instructions are not at hand for any reason, you can always download it from the manufacturer's website, however, as an educational program, you must remember the following things.

  Any mechanical watch needs care, preventive repair. The issuing company usually names (in the instructions!) The exact terms, but on average they vary from 3 to 5 years. It is best to take the watch to a service center that specializes in your company's watches, since the watch mechanism requires parts that are quite complex to manufacture, and you can get them only from the direct manufacturer. In addition, any watch needs to periodically change the lubricant and adjust the accuracy, that is, in those works that are highly discouraged to carry out on their own, without having special skills.

  

  Roger Dubuis watches use four balancing mechanisms at once. It's better not to drop such a watch.

  It should also be borne in mind that although modern mechanical watches were designed with military needs in mind, they are nevertheless sensitive to strong shocks and vibrations, their mechanism is vulnerable to moisture, and they are extremely adversely affected by magnetic fields. Naturally, most manufacturers in one way or another strive to protect their products from adverse factors, for example, by making balancing springs from silicon materials or placing the movement in a waterproof case, but there are many subtleties.

  For example, there are several standards for water resistance, namely iso 2281 and iso 6425. The first indicates that the watch can withstand short-term contact with water, but does not guarantee proper operation after prolonged immersion in water. The second standard was developed just for watches designed to operate at depths of up to 100 meters, but even here it is not so simple, since diving watches, in addition to meeting a certain standard, must also have a certain marking. In addition, there are several more clarifying characteristics of water resistance, which, among other things, may differ slightly from different manufacturers. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to read the instructions again.

  

  Tag Heuer watches. Marking 300M means that you can go diving with such a watch.

  Mechanical watches do not tolerate vibrations and harsh, strong shocks just as well. From which it follows that they should be removed when working, for example, with a jackhammer or a sledgehammer. It is also not recommended to practice in them. extreme species sports. Although some companies offer special sports models with shock-resistant cases and durable glass, quartz watches are better suited for such leisure - lightweight and reliable.

  With regard to magnetic fields, then everything is much simpler. It is sufficient not to leave the watch near a source of strong magnetic fields, such as speakers or a microwave oven. It is also not recommended to put them next to the tablet, but this sounds more like an unnecessary precaution than a valid warning.

  Finally, do not forget that the watch is extremely poorly tolerated. extreme temperatures, especially their sharp drops. That is, it is categorically not recommended to go to the bathhouse or leave it in the oven, especially if the oven is blast-furnace. In theory, very low temperatures also adversely affect the operation of the mechanism - the lubricant can thicken, therefore in winter, especially in severe frost, it is better not to take off the watch and wear warm clothes under the sleeve.

  If everything is more or less clear with the main destructive factors, then it is worth remembering a few more simple rules that should not be neglected by any owner of a mechanical watch.

  First of all it is worth knowing little trick, which almost all watch companies talk about. Never adjust the calendar if the hands are between 9 and 3 o'clock, as it is during this time interval that the calendar date changes. In practice, this means that you need to translate the arrows to lower part dial, and only then set the exact date on the calendar. Don't forget this.

  Arrows are best rotated so that they pass smallest path... If the watch has a built-in stopwatch, it is best to stop it before resetting. Never turn the crown of the mainspring all the way - it is best to leave a couple of turns.

  

  Automatic movement of Breitling watches

  How to wind up a mechanical wristwatch

  It is best to wind a mechanical watch twice a day, morning and evening, before removing it from your hand, otherwise you could damage the winding mechanism. It is also not recommended to use self-winding boxes, and if you do use this device, then make sure that it is compatible with your brand's watches. Owners of a self-winding mechanical watch should be aware that a watch cannot be started by simply shaking it, although many people do just that. Of course, you will check the mechanics of the car factory, but you will not start the mechanism properly - the spring simply does not have enough energy to work properly. Always make sure that the crown fits snugly against the case, as it is through this small gap that water and dust most often seeps into the complex mechanism.

  Try to put your watch on the crown. Thanks to this simple reception on your watch there will be no small scratches and chips, which is especially important for the owners of jewelry chronometers made of gold and inlaid with diamonds and other precious stones.

  

  Maurice Lacroix watch in rose gold. Need special care

  Some watches can be washed in running water, cleaning off fine dirt with a toothbrush, and some absolutely not. It all depends on the brand of the watch, so again, do not forget about the instructions, where such subtleties are specified, but any watch is not afraid of toothpicks and soft cloth, so they can always be used when caring for the bracelet and case.

  So, a small summary for the reader. Always read the instructions. This is best done before winding the watch for the first time. Remember that mechanical watches are vibration-insensitive and sensitive to strong and violent shocks. You should not swim or wash dishes in a watch, if it is absolutely not designed for this. Do not leave the watch near a strong magnetic field. Do not leave the watch in severe frost and do not go to the bathhouse with it. Try to show them to a specialist at least once every five years. Do not change the calendar date between 9 and 3 o'clock. Get in the habit of winding them up every day, taking them off your hand before doing it.

  All these are simple and clear rules will easily extend the service life of an already reliable mechanism. The main thing is not to forget about the instructions.

  
  2. If you take a ticking wristwatch in your teeth and plug your ears, the ticking will turn into strong, heavy blows - so much it will intensify.
  
  
  3. More than 20 people are needed to make wristwatches
  
  
  4. As a rule, most of the operations for the manufacture of watch parts are carried out in Switzerland using automated equipment and modern CNC machines. Only a few manufacturers, creating products worth tens of thousands of dollars or more, allow themselves to manually assemble mechanisms, and even more so - to refine and polish every detail of the watch by hand.
  
  
  5. The history of the Tissot brand dates back to 1853, when the father and son of Tissot founded a watch company in Le Locle, Switzerland. It was a small workshop in which the owners themselves worked. The increase in production occurred after a large order of pocket watches from the Imperial Court of Russia for Russian officers. Later, after the loss of this customer due to the revolution of 17, serial production was launched. The workshop provided work for watchmaker farmers. The latter brought the finished product a few weeks later to the Cret-Vaillant family house. The watches were examined by the TISSOT firm and were marked with the sign that the watch met the watchmaking quality criteria. Hours that did not meet these criteria were eliminated.
  
  
  6.Since 1974, when Tissot sponsored the auto race in Le Mans, France, the company has participated in numerous official partner or "keeper of time" in major sporting events, including Formula 1 races, World Cup Mountain Bike, FIM World Motorcycle Championships and others.
  
  
  7. It is believed that the name of the brand of Swiss watches Swatch comes from the phrase "Swiss Watch" ( Swiss Watches), but Nicholas George Hayek argued that in fact the name came from the phrase "Second Watch", that is, a watch for every day, as an affordable accessory.
  
  
  8. Today, more than 1 billion watch movements are produced in the world per year. Of these, about 60% are in Japan. The most expensive watch- Swiss, therefore, Swiss firms, yielding to Japanese in the number of watches produced, are significantly ahead of them in revenue.
  
  
  9. Chopard’s - the most expensive watch in the world. The total number of carats of diamonds is 201. Their value is $ 25 million.
  
  
  10. Younger brother Sultan of Brunei, Prince Jeffrey paid $ 5.2 million for 10 diamond-set wristwatches.