How to sew lace fabric. DIY lace dress: a detailed master class on sewing a beautiful and elegant dress for craftswomen

11.05.2019

Lace is the preferred material for wedding dresses. Although many dressmakers find lace fabric to be very difficult to work with, you will be pleased to know that these difficulties are somewhat exaggerated. The advantage of lace is that they do not need to process the cuts and cut them only along the shared thread. Plus, a good result will reward you for all your efforts.

Lace properties.

Lace fabric for a wedding dress usually has a complex pattern. The popular lace tulle, like many other types of lace fabric, has a mesh (or honeycomb) as a base, on which a pattern is repeated and protruding loops (pico) along the scallops.

High quality lace fabrics are very delicate and can be decorated with hand or machine embroidery, braid, ribbons, sequins, pearls, beads or beads. The honeycomb structure of the lace fabric allows you not to pay attention to the direction of the linear thread and to work creatively with patterned motifs and scallops.

Lace fabrics and fabrics are usually small in width and are used for cutting yokes, trimming or appliqués. Sometimes the entire bodice and sleeves are made of lace. Machine lace has patterned patterns along the entire length and not always scallops and finished edges. Some motifs of such lace are repeated quite often and they can be cut into strips to trim the edges of the product. You can also choose strips that match well to trim the edges of lace details.

Layout of lace patterns.

The lace fabric can be used for the whole dress or only for its individual parts. When buying lace fabric, pay attention to how much material you need in relation to the pattern, as well as in relation to the layout. lace patterns.
Think if you can the best way use this lace fabric for your product.

See how the lace itself, its pattern, weight and density will be combined with the style of your dress. Consider the direction of lace cutting: whether you will need to cut it to length, width, or cut out individual patterns or edges with scallops.

Take a close look at the lace pattern: can you use individual sections of it for finishing? You can decorate the edges of the product with festoons of lace, in addition, you can decorate the product with lace appliques or trim the lace edges with braid. Depending on the type and weight of lace you choose, you must decide whether you will use a lining, and if so, which one.

Some are very beautiful dresses make without lining. Choose only a lining that will not affect appearance your lace. It is better to use a lining fabric for transparent lace, it can be of the same color with it or another, and even a contrasting one. Lining will make your dress tighter, more comfortable and allow for a better fit.

Some laces are thin but very sharp. For them, it is better to take an almost invisible thin net or tulle as a lining fabric. The lining can be shiny or matte. Try combining lace with satin, taffeta, organdy, crepe, marquise, or tights.

When working with lace light color cover your work surface with a smooth dark cloth and lay out the lace in one layer on this fabric. Lay out all paper patterns on the lace, paying attention to how the lace patterns fall on the right and left sides of the front and back, as well as in the middle.

Either pin the details with thin pins on the lace, or press down with weights. Cutting out lace fabric is only necessary with cutting scissors.

Open the lace.

When cutting lace, try to ensure that its pattern is not broken by the seam, but ends near the seam. Carefully plan and lay out your paper patterns, similar to how you work with a tartan. Arrange the patterns evenly and think about how to fit the parts together. Having achieved good result, fix paper patterns with thin pins or weights.

Lace embroidered with ribbons where ribbons emphasize floral motives, requires more careful thought, although the well-known statement that lace does not crumble is true, nevertheless, your results will be more successful if you do not cut the ribbons that frame the outer line of the pattern.

To make it easier to cut the lace, while maintaining the integrity of the pattern, use thread to trace the line of the motive. Use a thread of a different color to mark the stitching line. Cut the lace behind the seam line, but you can use a normal 1.5 cm seam allowance or more if the detail big size... Only cut the lace when you are sure to draw the lines correctly.

Before you start sewing, try ironing out the unnecessary piece of lace. It is recommended to iron the lace on terry towel or a special soft pad so as not to smooth the pattern. Lace lay face side down, and then ironed with moisture through a damp cloth or iron, which will protect your lace, including from dirt.

Needles and threads.

Take pieces of lace and check which threads are suitable, the size of the needle for sewing it. If you are using a # 80 needle, thread the sewing machine with cotton or polyester thread. Hold the lace along the seam at the front and back so that it does not pucker, but do not pull. Set the stitch length to 2.5 mm, sew slowly. Vary the stitch length, combinations of needles and threads, and thread tension until you achieve the desired result. If the foot "binds" in the lace, you can wrap the sole of the foot in plastic or put on another foot, for example for sewing denim or satin stitch embroidery with a "roller". If the lace is strung on the foot, sew through tissue paper or transparent interlining. If lace gets caught in the needle clamp, use a straight stitch or place a strip of tissue paper under the fabric.

Traditional methods of overcasting and darting are great for matte lace, lined lace, or trimmed lace. These seams can be corrected at the last fitting. Seams on thin laces are processed with a double stitch or overlock. This overcast is very difficult to fix.

Joining lace details along the outlined lines.
Place the pieces on top of each other, matching the lines of the same patterns. Baste the part along the seam line contrasting thread, sew the necessary curly stitch marks. V in this case there is no need to make labels.

Seam overlay.
Fix bottom cut details in small zigzag stitches. Read the manual for your machine for which foot and stitch length to set.

Treatment of seams.
After stitching in the pattern, trim off the excess allowances on the top of the lace. WITH seamy side Trim the seam allowances close to the stitches. The darts should be grinded in the same way.

Lace applique.

Placement of the applique.
Sometimes it is impossible to place the details of the pattern so that the scallops lie in the places where you would like to see them, for example, on the neckline, along the bottom edges of sleeves or a skirt. In this case, the edges are trimmed with stripes with scallops or appliqués, for which scalloped lace is also quite suitable.

In addition, scalloped strips can be cut from the lace fabric you already have, or patterns can be cut from the inside of it. Place the lace strips over the edge you want to trim. For a more beneficial effect, try to distribute the lace patterns evenly: small patterns work best on small details such as collars and cuffs, and patterns bigger size- on large parts such as a skirt.

Lace trim.
Apply appliqué to the fabric cut to form a single piece. If the workpiece has sharp curves, press the appliqué into shape with steam or cut the appliqué to make it smoother; pin and sweep.

To create the same scalloped hem as on our dress, cut out a large triangle of scalloped lace to secure it at the hem of the front of the dress. Place the scalloped hem over the already sewn front of the skirt.

Sew on by hand or machine stitch near the top of the lace. To brighten the rest of the bottom, cut out the scalloped strip following the pattern. Pin to the finished hem of the back of the skirt, placing the inner edge of the scallops along the entire bottom edge.

The lace motif from the back of the skirt should end so as to overlap the sides of the front applique; try to make sure that the motive is not interrupted, if possible, along the entire edge. Bend down the straight edge of the scallops imperceptibly and firmly. Without grabbing the dresses, connect the ends of the motif from the back panel of the skirt with an applique on the front panel of the skirt, imperceptibly and firmly on your hands.

To complete top edge a large applique on the front panel of the dress, place individual motifs cut from the remnants of the lace, so that you get a continuous beautiful drawing from lace. Sew the motifs on your arms firmly and discreetly.

Cutting the fabric from under the lace applique.
Zigzag the inside edge of the appliqué on the machine, or over-sew on the arms. Cut the base fabric close to the seam to make the appliqué transparent.

Lace applique on satin.
Pin the applique on the wrong side of the front side atlas. Baste. Sew the applique with small stitches by hand along the edge and inside the pattern, making sure the lace and satin are smooth. You can overcast the appliqué with narrow zigzag stitches or straight stitches if it looks good.

Admin 2013-11-24 at 8:00 pm

Hello, friends.

Have you tried sewing your own dress from transparent or elastic materials? I'll try to guess - for sure, yes.

And what problems were stopping or hindering you? If these problems are finding a pattern or questions about how to sew a dress from such capricious materials, then this Sunday article is about sewing a beautiful lace dress For you.

And at the end of the article, let's talk a little about exclusiveness - or how to manually decorate a dress and create a very beautiful outfit.

But let's save you from the illusion that this dress is suitable for any figure. Not at all. This style is only suitable for the fragile constitution of a girl, with thin waist... Only this dress will not make such a figure bulky and similar to a doll from a samovar. If the waist is overweight, then do not even try to sew this dress for yourself - there will be no beauty.

Now to the point. You can build a dress pattern

Skirts for these dresses are cut out simply with a rectangle.

For the skirt, you need to cut out two rectangles - for the front and back parts of the skirt. The width of one panel is cut out to the entire width of the fabric - that is, 140 or 110 cm. Don't skimp, it is the thick gathering at the waist that makes the skirt of the dress so rich.

And the height of the panel, respectively, is the length of the skirt.

If you sew from lace, then the width of the lace fabric can be 110 cm. From this width, it will also turn out to make two panels, and the assembly will be enough.

Materials (edit)

Now about the materials from which such dresses can be sewn:

For the bodice, embroidered lace on the basis of an elastic or inelastic mesh, ready-made embroidery on chiffon or organza is suitable. Any basis, in general, is good. Only when processing elastic materials, it should be borne in mind that the seams are stretched by stitches and in the finished product may look like wavy lines, and the stitches must also be elastic, otherwise the seams will burst.

It is not necessary to use the same fabric for the skirt as for the bodice. It can be organza, rigid mesh, lace or any of the above fabrics with embroidery, lace or hand embroidery.

Such curvaceous form only due to the stiffness of the base fabric.

There is definitely a petticoat with rings - with one or two, and on top of it there is another petticoat made of a rigid mesh with frills.

I already wrote about how to sew such a skirt with frills.

In the photo of the second dress, where the hem of the dress is slightly raised, such an underskirt is visible.

Dress sewing

1) Sewing a skirt is not particularly difficult: sew with a 1 cm wide seam and process on an overlock side seams, iron towards the front. there will be a hidden zipper on the back of the dress.

2) The fastener will be from the neckline to the point that is 18-20 cm below the waistline. Therefore, a seam must be made on the back panel of the skirt, where the zipper will be stuck in. Sew the middle seam of the skirt downwards from the fastener with a seam 1.5 cm wide. Press the seams until they are finished. Put the skirt aside.

3) Cut out the details of a paper pattern in your size and cut out the details of the bodice of the dress from calico. This will be the layout. Along the side seams, the allowances for processing the seams in the model are not less than 2.5 cm. The allowances for the shoulder seams are 1.5 cm. The gap along the bottom cut of the bodice of the dress is not less than 2.5 cm. The size of these allowances applies only to the model. after specifying the fit of the bodice on the figure, cut out the bodice details from lace and make the allowances in accordance with the recommendations that I will describe below.

4) Stitch on the shelf breast darts, press up. Stitch waist darts front - iron to center.

Also stitch and press the shoulder and waist darts of the back to the center.

5) The algorithm for processing the neck and armholes in such a product deserves a careful and thoughtful approach. But if you follow these simple recommendations then your dress will look neat and beautiful. And most importantly, this type of processing is perfect for transparent fabrics.

Stitch shoulder seams using one of the methods described below. Now I will briefly focus on two ways to sew side and shoulder seams if you will be sewing from an elastic mesh:

The first method of processing an elastic seam: sinitially leave the apas of the seam at 1.5 cm. So it will be easier for you to process it. And after sewing, you can trim up to 7 mm with an overlock.

So, before sewing a seam, stick masking tape on the fabric to the left of the line. The scotch tape should not cover the stitching area, but should go exactly end-to-end. Now we sew a zig-zag seam along the tape to the right of it, without grabbing the tape itself, otherwise you will not remove it later.

This way, stretching of the material can be avoided and the stitching will be good and neat. Then overcast the seam edge on the overlock and remove the tape.

Second way It also helps to grind down stretched materials, and plus it gives a guarantee that there will be no gaps in the line if the machine is capricious.

To do this, you need to tear off strips 2-3 cm wide from the newspaper.Only you need to tear off the white areas, without block letters, as the paint stains a lot and you run the risk of spoiling the light material.

The first step is to grind the side or shoulder seam the usual straight stitch, only by superimposing a strip of newspaper on the fabric.

Remove the newspaper and in the second step, zigzag over the first line. The first line connects the layers and prevents the fabric from stretching, and the second line secures the seam and makes it strong. Then overcast the edge of the seam, you can cut it to the narrowest width - 0.5 cm, so the seam will look softer and more invisible.

And I want to give you one more piece of advice if you sew from chiffon. The seams of chiffon are loose and even if the stocks of seams are 1.5 cm, they can still spill out during the operation of the product, especially in those places where the fabric passes along the oblique - an armhole, for example.

I grind such seams with a narrow and frequent - 1.5 - 2 mm wide zig-zag seam. Or with a very frequent straight stitch - 10 stitches per 1 cm.

So, the shoulder seams were sewn. Now cut a 4 cm wide bias stripe from the main fabric, fold it in half lengthwise and press it on. Use this oblique stitching to process the neckline of the armhole of the dress in the manner described in the sewing section.

6) Stitch the side seams, iron to the side of the shelf.

7) Take the skirt and evenly gather it along the upper cut by 2 threads to the length of the cut equal to the lower cut of the bodice.

Pin and sew the skirt to the bottom of the bodice. Overcast the cut on the overlock. Do not press on the seam, but point it down when sewing in the lock.

8) Sew to the middle cuts of the back hidden zipper.

9) Well, now about the petticoats in more detail. This dress has two petticoats. The lowest one has rings. The second is made of a mesh with strands or frills. So, this intermediate skirt can be sewn separately or sewn on to the dress. If you want to sew it to a dress, then now, on this stage, just about time.

The petticoat is sewn on from the inside of the bodice. It turns out that the bodice is inserted between the upper and lower skirts. So a tight enough and spiky seam will be hidden inside the skirts and will not cause discomfort. Sweep seam hedgehog once.

10) Hem the bottom of the top skirt with a thin double seam: First fold the bottom edge to the inside of the skirt by 5 mm and sew to the edge, then fold it a second time and sew with the second stitch that falls into the first. Press the bottom of the skirt down.

11) Hand stitches hem the middle cuts petticoat to the castle. Press on the seam where the zipper is sewn in.

Lace - very beautiful element dresses that help to make the product look more elegant and romantic. It can decorate different parts of the product, but the models with trim on the bottom look the most interesting.

Also, lace can play a functional role - for example, to increase the length of the finished product. Hence the interest in the question of how to sew lace to the hem of the dress. With the help of such a beautiful detail, you can refresh old thing or create a particularly beautiful new one.

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Lace and openwork materials are very sophisticated. Such textured canvases can cause a lot of trouble when sewing and processing. It is especially important for beginners to have an idea of how to sew lace correctly so that it looks flawless.

Selection of material

If you have already decided on the style of the dress, you need to choose the right lace strip for this model. Please note that lace may not work with some fabrics. For example, wool products can look ridiculous, or even skew altogether if a guipure or openwork strip is sewn to the bottom. In this case, it is better to take ordinary fabric fragments: cotton, knitwear, linen.

Usually, lace elements on monochromatic products are chosen in contrast to the main fabric in order to diversify the style. For colorful dresses, it is worth stopping at an openwork strip to match one of the base colors. Sealing the waist with lace is not recommended. So sew the textured elements either along the shoulder line (for the "pear" shape) or to the hem of the dress (for the "inverted triangle" shape).

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The material on the finished product can be complemented with light beading or sequins. If you are a beginner, try to select smoother types of fishnet fabrics so that there are no problems with stitching. It is better to refuse knitted options altogether.

Opt for fabric lace with fine trimming along the edge, which you will sew on to the dress.

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To prevent the lace from shrinking after the first wash, rinse it in hot water before the beginning.
After rinsing, place the fabric, wrong side up, on a flat, soft surface (such as a sofa). Let it dry for 5-10 minutes and then iron it. This technique helps to preserve the relief of the openwork material.
If in the future, sewing lace without gathers or flounces, fix the edge of the openwork fabric with a basting by hand or with overlapping pins to the edge of the dress, only then start the machine stitch so that the fabric does not move.
It is best to sew on lace materials with a zigzag stitch so that the fabric does not tear during wear, but only slightly stretches. This technique is especially important when forming folds or draperies.
Threads can be purchased in a shade of lace. With a contrasting idea and a lining method of sewing, it is advised to select them under the basis of the dress.
To correctly calculate the amount of material required, spread the dress on the floor and measure the bottom line. Double the number and add 2 to 3 cm for the seams on each side. This is the correct amount to purchase.
It is customary to sew curly lace options not on a typewriter, but by hand.

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Sewing single layer lace to hem

Materials and tools

The dress.
Lace strip to match the circumference of the dress.
Sewing machine.
Crayon or washable marker.
French pins.
Scissors.

Progress

Measure the hem of your dress and cut required amount lace. If you bought a little less openwork fabric, then the edges of the skirt can be narrowed. To do this, fix them with pins at the desired distance (mark the strip with a chalk) and sew with a machine. Cut off excess fabric.
If you have ready product with a hem along the bottom, it is better to cut off this edge - this way it will not stick out.
Turn the dress inside out. Blend the hem of the skirt and the hem of the lace together. Secure the lace tape on the base with French pins. Do not cut off any excess edge, if any. It is better to do this at the end so that there are no holes and gaps.
Stitch the lace with a zigzag stitch or long straight stitch. Remove the pins one at a time to maintain the position of the material around the entire circumference.
If you fear a wrong cut or seam divergence, simply sew lace to the hem without joining the edges.
Sew one more seam along the first so that the lace will last longer. If one line comes apart, then the second will hold the canvas and save you from immediate sewing.
Cut off excess material and threads. Try on a dress. If everything fits perfectly, then you can iron the product - it's ready.

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Sewing on multiple layers of lace

You will need the same means as for the first option, only two strips of lace should be different widths to overlay them.

Progress

Match two stripes of lace with different patterns but the same color. The width of the upper layer should be 2-3 cm less than the lower one.
Layer layers of lace on top of each other. You can simply pin them, sew or glue them. For beginners, it is recommended to join the fragments with a light basting stitch by hand.
Pin the lace to the hem of the dress with pins at the same distance to keep the hem straight.
You can diversify the style by forming small cuts on the sides. It is best to do this by tucking the lace in different sides so that they do not crumble after cuts.
Secure these folds with pins.
Try to match the cut with the side seam.
Tie the lace to the base, paying attention to the sides. In these areas it is best to switch the machine to the heavyweight stitching mode and lengthen the stitch length.
Turn the dress inside out and iron the hem.

To cover the seams on the dress, it is permissible to use another layer of lace, but place it over the hem 5-7 cm above the seams or edges. In this case, the openwork insert will add variety to the style, especially if it is made in contrast to the bottom or to match the base.

The technique is used to create a multi-layered bottom like a year. Form and sew lace strips along the neckline, shoulders, or cuffs to maintain the uniformity of the dress.

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It is also an option to put the bottom layer of lace high under the skirt, right up to the waistline and make a kind of lining that will gracefully emphasize the line of the legs and cover the hips if the skirt suddenly rises.

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In addition to the line methods, there are other options for lengthening the dress with lace. For example, a wide strip can be simply glued to the base. special glue for fabrics. Or use the material from special party and attach it thermally - with an iron. This option is especially useful for dense materials where glue depressions will not be visible.

A delicate lace dress that we will make with our own hands is an undoubted hit of this year. Many popular fashion houses and designers have presented a variety of collectible dress models for the world to see. Dolce & Gabbana - graceful lace outfits black shades, Valentino - luxurious holiday models to the floor, Versace, Burberies and Victoria's Secret - short beautiful dresses juicy flowers and shades. In general, absolutely any model of dress can be decorated with lace. Add a collar and cuffs to your outfit and you will look very fashionable and unique. But in the presented article, we will help you create a romantic lace outfit.

Do-it-yourself lace dress: features when working

You need to make a pattern holiday dress and cut out all the parts from the material that is intended for the lining. You can make a straight lace dress from lace fabric.

The construction of the sleeve pattern will be the same as for straight dress for girl.

Place on a smooth surface before starting to cut from lace material. First put a piece of cloth under the lace material bright color so that the lace stands out well. When working with lace fabric, the direction of the share thread is absolutely not important. Details can be positioned depending on how the drawing is going. Place the patterns of sleeves, shelves and backs of the model so that the scallops are at the bottom of the elements. Also see that the scallops are placed symmetrically and, if possible, connected in places where the elements are grinded.

First, sew on the details of the outfit from satin or satin fabric, but you can use other material of the same shade. The peculiarities of sewing the lining are the same as when sewing the model itself. Make darts and raised seams. Run a hot iron over them gently. Special attention give the slices. Connect the cuts on the sides and shoulders of the elements and sew. Finish the cuts with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Place the lace dress on the lining with the inner side to the outer side of the cover and sew. Sew the neckline with a blind stitch yourself with your hands.

If you want to make a hidden zipper into your outfit, then sew it along the cuts of the back, connecting both the lace fabric and the lining. Then, you can sew using the blind-fastening method. There is no need to process the cut of the outfit at the bottom, it will be interestingly decorated with scallops. And hem the lining twenty to thirty millimeters less than lace. Fold it twice, first by five millimeters, then by 20 millimeters, and sew on a sewing machine.

Your beautiful and elegant lace dress is ready.

Learning simple ways to process elastic seams: tips and tricks

The first way to process an elastic seam: initially leave a seam margin of 1.5 centimeters. This will make it easier for you to handle it. And after sewing, you can trim up to seven millimeters with an overlock.

So, before sewing a seam, stick masking tape on the fabric to the left of the line. The scotch tape should not cover the stitching area, but should go exactly end-to-end. Now, with a zig-zag seam, sew along the tape to the right of it, without grabbing the tape itself, otherwise you will not be able to remove it later.

This way, stretching of the material can be avoided and the stitching will be good and neat. Then overcast the seam edge on the overlock and remove the tape.

The second method also allows you to grind stretch fabrics. To do this, you need to tear off strips two or three centimeters wide from the newspaper. Only the white areas should be torn off, without printed letters, since the paint smears out heavily, and you risk spoiling the light-colored material.

The first step is to sew the side or shoulder seam with a regular straight stitch, just placing a strip of regular newspaper on the fabric.

Remove the newspaper and zigzag over the first line. The first line connects the layers and prevents the fabric from stretching, and the second line secures the seam and makes it strong. Then overcast the edge of the seam, you can cut it to the narrowest width - 0.5 centimeters, so the seam will look softer and more invisible.

A selection of thematic videos for the article

At the end of our article, we bring to your attention a selection interesting video on the topic of making a dress from lace quickly and step by step with your own hands. We hope that after viewing the materials, you will not have any questions on this topic. Enjoy viewing and exploring!

Lace Wedding Dress from Milo.

I quote-

There was an impulse to sew a dress with invisible seams(overlapping), but the girl did not want to ... it was important for her that it was visible that the dress was sewn.
Yes, I wouldn't have succeeded ... the fabric was only 1.60 with a width of 90 ... and since it was cut across, we can assume that the dress was sewn from 90 cm (with a width of 160).

Layout on the fabric. Cloth folded in a special way... bends on both sides, and the cuts "meet on the territory of the cut

MK - details of sewing a lace dress with lining.
Sewing a dress was reduced to two principles:
1 - fasten the layers together, and then sew the parts, as from ordinary fabric
2 - instead of overlock, cut the slices

In the second photo you can see that the lace piece was cut out a little more (fitted it later) ... and you can see my pigtail made of waxed cotton threads for basting, which quickly and safely (without getting confused) decreases, despite the fact that before sewing each I also procure things with polyester threads to match.

Then I sewed the details along the contour at a distance. 4mm from the cut, cut off the excess.

On the silk back, a stitched dart is visible (coming from the armhole, not from the shoulder ... because the layout did not allow otherwise) ... I did not make such a small lace on the lace, but simply pressed it on this section.

Binding edging.
Edged with the thinnest lining fabric to avoid additional roughness of the seams.
I did the first line on the machine, and the second one manually ... because of the uneven thickness of the layers on the machine, the second line turned out not so hot ... there are also claims to manual edging - to press hard (then the lace pattern began to be printed) and did not succeed in making the edging with a lyalek ...

Wrong side ... in real life it looks decent than in the photo

Bottom of the silk layer