Purple toga. Ancient Roman women dressed up in haute couture

27.04.2019

The militarized nature of the Roman slave-owning state over the course of several centuries turned the small city-state of Rome into a powerful world power, which ruled over the territory of modern Europe, Asia Minor, and Egypt. Wars of conquest, sharp class differentiation, wealth and luxury at one extreme, poverty and lack of rights at the other, give Roman society an appearance in which features of similarity with ancient Greece are lost. Roman art is conditionally divided into the art of the period of the Republic (IV-I centuries BC) and the art of the period of the Empire (I-V centuries AD). As can be seen from the names themselves, the periodization of art is associated with the political and state structure. ancient rome. During the period of the Republic, Rome conquered Greece (II century BC), and since that time the culture and art of the Romans have been greatly influenced by the culture and art of Greece.

AESTHETIC IDEAL OF BEAUTY

The ancient Romans appear before us as harsh, physically strong, developed, hardy people. Not the Greek cult of a beautiful athletic body, harmony of proportions, but the severity and courage of a warrior, adaptability to any conditions, rigor and simplicity - these are the main features of the ideal, formed on early stages Roman state.

Ideally, the Romans embodied majesty, slowness and a certain static character. Roman matrons enjoyed greater rights and respect in society than women in ancient Greece.

The ideal color for the appearance of the Romans was considered light, especially after blond German slaves appeared in Rome.

FABRICS, COLORS

Like all Roman art, Roman costume was influenced by Greek traditions. This affected the linear-rhythmic decision of the costume, the manner of wearing two or three clothes at the same time, and the use of fabrics similar in fiber composition and color.

However, Roman clothing differed in many ways from Greek clothing, especially during the Imperial period. Fabrics, as in Greece, were made by hand, the material was sheep wool and linen. During the period of the Empire, beautiful expensive silk fabrics began to be imported from the East. A pound of such silk was worth a pound of gold. Along with thin and transparent silks, dense and heavy types of brocade were fashionable, which became more and more popular every year. The use of dense and heavy fabrics leads to a gradual transition of the form of clothing from draped to a flat invoice, sheath-shaped. The color scheme in the Roman costume is bright colorful, the main colors are purple, brown, yellow. During the period of the Empire, the color scheme acquires a complex, refined character in shades and combinations of colors: light blue and green with white, light purple with yellow, grayish blue, pinkish lilac.

Men's suit

At the heart of the Roman male costume were two types of clothing: the lower one - a tunic and the upper one - a toga. In their purpose, they are similar to the Greek chiton and himation, but their constructive solution is different: a chiton is a draped garment that was wrapped around the body, a tunic is an overhead garment worn over the head.

Tunics (Fig. 19) had several varieties, distinguished by the length and width of the product, by the length and width of the sleeves. The richer and more noble was the owner of the tunic, the more skillfully it was decorated. decorative ornaments(stripes, embroidery, ornament) also had a class-official character. So, purple vertical stripes along the front of the tunic, differing in number and width, were worn by Roman senators and horsemen. The tunic of the victorious commander was purple, embroidered with a pattern in the form of golden palm branches.

Outerwear - toga - the Romans attached deeply symbolic meaning. The Roman poet Virgil wrote in his Aeneid: "The rulers of the world are a people dressed in togas." Foreigners and slaves were not allowed to wear the toga. Toga (Fig. 20) is a complex drapery of a rectangular, semicircular or elliptical piece wool fabric size bX 1.8 m. One of the most common ways to drape the toga was as follows: from the back to the left shoulder they throw a part of the toga up to the floor (the toga is first folded lengthwise so that top part was already lower). This part covers the left shoulder and left side figures.

The fabric falling back covers the back and passes under the right arm in front. On the side under the arm, approximately at waist level, the fabric is twisted with the inside up and the resulting tourniquet is attached to the tunic belt. Then the fabric is laid in semicircular folds, descending to the level of the knees, and again thrown over the left shoulder to the back. After that, the left end is pulled up on the chest, laying in a semicircular fold (Fig. 21). Unlike the Greek himation, which freely and naturally draped over the figure, following the plasticity of movements, emphasizing their beauty, the toga created a completely different artistic image. Big sizes, a complex canonized drapery approved by law, snow-white expensive fabric, a purple stripe - a sign of class distinction - should first of all emphasize the special position of the Roman patrician, his nobility and superiority over other members of society.

In later periods, heavy and bulky togas were replaced by a light cloak of the Greek chlamys type, which was carefully matched in color to the tunic and worn with a fibula on the chest, covering both shoulders. Such a cloak was made from a small rectangular piece of expensive fabric woven with gold and silver.

A variation of the cloak, small in volume, knee-length, was the paludamentum, thrown over the back and left shoulder and fastened on the right (Fig. 22). Paludamentum - the costume of the emperor and the nobility - was later revived in the purple mantle of kings. AT European clothes of the Middle Ages and even in modern capes - capes, another type of Roman cloak was revived - a penula (Fig. 23) - in a circle or semicircle cut with a hole for the head, to which a hood was sewn. Penula from coarse wool lived in peasant clothes, and from expensive decorated fabrics - in a suit of rich dandies. Warriors in the early periods of Roman history wore a woolen tunic, a leather armor with metal plates, a helmet on their heads and a thick woolen cloak. During the period of the Empire, with the advent of mercenary soldiers, the form of military clothing and its assortment are modified: short, knee-length pants and a short cloak appear under the influence of the barbarians - Germans and Gauls.

The costume of a noble Roman was complemented by semi-boots or sandals with backs (Fig. 24). During the period of the Empire in the costume of the nobility were widespread Jewelry: rings, rings made of various metals, which were worn 5-6 pieces on each finger. Bracelets played the role of an award sign. Straight, short hair combed over the forehead and a shaved face or a small curled beard complete the look of the Romans. The hairstyle "head of Titus" from short curls with sideburns, named after the emperor Titus Vespasian.

The clothes of the Roman poor and slaves are a tunic, a penula made of coarse woolen or linen fabric, in bad weather - simple wooden shoes.

Woman suit

Drapery formed the basis of the Roman women's costume until the 3rd - 4th centuries. n. BC, until light and thin Greek and Assyrian silks replaced heavy oriental fabrics with large patterns.

The women's tunic (Fig. 25) did not differ in cut from the men's. Usually it was made of woolen fabric and varied in width and length of the sleeves.

Above the tunic, noble Roman women wore a table, wider and longer than the tunic. The combination of tunics and tables was decided by a combination different texture and density of fabrics, length of sleeves and decorative design tables. If the Greek woman's underwear was made of thin, and the upper one was made of dense fabric, then for the Roman woman, on the contrary, the tunic was made of dense fabric, and the table was made of thin, transparent. If the tunic was with sleeves, the table was without them, and vice versa. The bottom of the table was sheathed with a pleated frill. The stola was girded with a slouching, which created certain proportions. The outerwear for women was a draped cloak, reminiscent of the shape of the Greek himation - palla. The head was covered with a veil or the edge of a palla (Fig. 26).

AT color scheme women's costume was dominated by combinations of tones of brown with golden yellow, lilac with green, blue with gray. The main types of decoration and decorations were embroidery, fringe, jewelry made of gold, pearls, precious stones. In the III - IV centuries. changing the idea of the beauty of a woman's figure. The developed forms, the emphasized proportions revealed by draped clothes, are replaced by the flat, static forms that closed clothing from heavy, inelastic fabrics. The simple harmonious hairstyle of the Roman women, which kept Greek traditions, is replaced during the period of the Empire by a high hairstyle on a fan-shaped frame, artificial hair. Roman women's shoes are soft shoes made of colored leather, trimmed with embroidery or metal plaques.

Some Romans tried to surprise and shock others with their clothing. So, young Romans from wealthy families deliberately wore soft feminine clothes, for example, tunics with long sleeves, bright bedspreads and transparent silk togas. Philosophers often appeared in an untidy look, in dirty, torn clothes and worn out raincoats.

Pius Clementine Museum

The whole history of the Roman people, all stages of its development, were reflected in the clothes of the ancient Romans. In the distant past, the Romans were distinguished by the simplicity of morals, and their simple clothes served only to protect them from heat or cold. It was made from the skins and wool of animals, later - from flax. Men and women wore shirts and cloaks, shoes in sandals and shoes with straps.

Roman senator with his wife and son
There are two periods in the history of the Roman state: republican and imperial. The life of the Romans in the republican period was still quite strict. The Roman costume was similar to the Greek one, it was also draped, but the aesthetic ideal of the ancient Romans was not a beautiful human body, but harsh courageous warriors and majestic women.

Galla Placidia (388-450) and her son, the Roman Emperor Valentinian III (419-455). Galla Placidia ruled the Western Roman Empire for 12 years during her son's childhood.

Therefore, the complex Roman costume, which was originally made of wool, and later of linen, gave the figure a static, majestic, a certain theatricality. In the imperial period, clothes become richer and more magnificent. Imported silk fabrics appear.

During the heyday of the Roman state, its borders expanded greatly, including the territory of modern England, France, Spain, Holland and other countries. Rome became a huge world power that waged endless wars and extensive trade. The plundered wealth, the many slaves who did all the work, led to luxury even in everyday life. All this was reflected in the character of the ancient Roman costume.

The Romans dressed in clothes of bright colors: red, purple, purple, yellow, brown. A white suit was considered ceremonial, it was worn for ceremonial exits.

The Romans made clothes for women. Until the time of the empire, the Romans wore home-made clothes. Even Emperor Augustus (1st century BC) was proud that his tunic and toga were made by the hands of his mother and wife. Unlike the Greeks, who wove their clothes in one piece on a loom, Roman clothes were sewn together.

Male costume in ancient Rome

Roman magistrates in togas
The basis of the Roman costume was the "tunic", which was considered the lower, home clothing. To appear in it on the street without outerwear was indecent for a Roman citizen. The tunic had much in common with the Greek tunic, but, unlike it, it was an overhead garment: it was sewn on the shoulders and put on over the head. The length of the tunic could be different, but basically it reached the middle of the calves. There were several types of tunics: "colobium", "talaris" and "dalmatic". The colobium had short sleeves and was belted. Talaris was worn by nobility, this tunic had long, narrow sleeves. The dalmatic was longer, with wide sleeves, which, when unfolded, resembled a cross. Therefore, the dalmatic was worn by the Christian Romans.

Tunics of representatives of various social strata depended on their nobility and wealth. Purple was a symbol of power in ancient Rome. Persons holding high public positions wore tunics with purple stripes sewn on. So, on the tunic of the senator was sewn a wide vertical purple stripe (“clavus”), on the tunic of the riders - two narrow purple stripes. Triumph commanders wore tunics magenta, embroidered with golden palm branches.
Sometimes (especially during the cold season) the Romans wore several tunics at once. Emperor Augustus is known to have worn four tunics at the same time.

The most important outerwear of the ancient Romans was the "toga" - a cloak made of a large rectangular or elliptical piece of woolen fabric. The size of the toga was approximately 6 meters by 1 meter 80 centimeters, and usually the slaves draped their master in it. For the Romans, the toga was their hallmark, and they called themselves "gens togata" - "wearing a toga." The toga was a symbol of the civic dignity of a Roman. If he committed a crime, then by law he was deprived of the right to wear these clothes. Slaves, foreigners and exiles also had no right to wear a toga. The victorious commander appeared in a purple toga woven with gold - a pict. Later, it was replaced by a purple cloak - "paludamentum", the ancestor of the mantles of European kings.

There were also other types of cloaks. Roman emperors and the highest nobility wore a "paludamentum", which was thrown over the back and left shoulder, and buckled on the right. It could also be worn wrapped several times in the form of a scarf around the left arm.
The ceremonial cloak was also a “lacerna” - a rectangular piece of fabric that covered the back and both shoulders and chipped off in front. The lacerna was made of very expensive fabric woven with gold and silver, and it reached the knees.
The poor wore "penula" - woolen or leather coat in the form of a semicircle, often with an attached hood. Penula was the clothing of shepherds and travelers. It was often made of dense woolen fabric with a "bouffant". Roman dandies wore a pencil case made of precious fabrics.
Pants came into use by the Romans from the III century. AD - this detail of the costume was also borrowed by them from the barbarians (before the war with the Gauls, they did not wear them). But only soldiers constantly wore them.

Women's costume in ancient Rome

noble Roman women

Roman women were distinguished by a special passion for rich outfits and jewelry. In order to limit this passion for panache, a strict law was even issued in Rome prohibiting excessive luxury. However, this did not lead to anything: after the wars with Asia Minor, even more oriental goods and jewelry began to arrive in Rome, and the desire for luxury only intensified.

If in more early times Roman matrons dressed in white clothes, decorated with only a narrow purple border, then later they began to sew clothes from multi-colored, checkered or bright plain (lilac, purple, green, yellow, red) fabrics. And despite any prohibitions, the Romans dressed in translucent, golden and precious purple fabrics.

A long and rather wide tunic was worn by the Romans as a lower or home clothes. Usually she was woolen and girdled. Tunics were made both without sleeves and with long sleeves; sleeves could also be split, with fasteners along the entire length of the arm.

Noble women wore over the tunic "table" - outerwear similar to a tunic. It was long, with or without sleeves, and girdled under the bust. beautiful belt. A wide pleated frill (“insista”) was sewn at the bottom, embroidered with gold sequins and pearls or decorated with a purple trim. The collar and armholes were also decorated with a wide border. A sleeved tunic was worn over a sleeveless tunic (and vice versa). Stola was considered clothing married women. It must be worn when appearing in public places. Slaves were forbidden to wear a table.

The outerwear also served as a cloak - "palla", similar to the Greek himation. It was draped in various ways, with a slouch at the waist, and top edge sometimes they covered their heads. The palla was fastened on the shoulders with clasps ("agraphs").

Woman in fascia chest bandage and subligaculum.

Undergarments in ancient Rome included a tunic, chest bands reminiscent of a modern bra, and loincloths.

Both men and women from the first century AD. e. often put another tunic under the upper tunic.

Women's lower tunic (lat. tunica subucula) with a loincloth and a bandage on the chest (lat. fascia) made up a woman's underwear. Fascia was usually made from fabric, less often from leather. There is no exact information in ancient sources whether all women wore such a bandage. Women wore a stophium to support their breasts - a ribbon several meters long, which was wrapped around the chest. The image of this chest band is known from numerous Roman frescoes. Also known from images and a find from Britain is a kind of “underpants” (Latin subligaculum), which were tied on the sides with ribbons. Subligacules are also mentioned in British tablets from Vindolanda.

The Romans did not know the stocking. Hunters, peasants and soldiers often tied their feet, thighs and shins with bandages (lat. tibialia) made of linen or wool to protect themselves from the cold, this custom was not widespread among urban residents. In the 1st and 2nd centuries, wearing trousers was considered a barbaric custom. Men wore a tunic under the toga, but initially only a loincloth was worn under the toga. Already in the II century BC. e. men began to put on another shirt (lat. tunica interior or subucula) made of wool under the tunic. Linen shirts were worn only in the 4th century. It is known about Emperor Octavian Augustus that in winter, in addition to tibialia footcloths, he also wore feminalia, trousers that reached the knees in order to protect himself from the cold.

The ancient Romans gave the figure a slenderness by pulling a piece of dense fabric under the tunic or thin skin waist and supporting her breasts (which anticipated future women's corsets).

Emperor Augustus in lorica, with rich relief trim and shoulder buckles connecting the front and back of the armor. Under the lorica is a leather doublet with short, folded shoulder pads, on the body is a tunic, around the hips is a paludamentum

Marcus Aurelius and the Captured Teutons. A group of warriors in short tunics, loriks and lapels fastened at the shoulder. Prisoners on their knees are wearing short, belted tunics and cloaks[

Roman patrician clothing:

The man is wearing an embroidered tunic, a toga, shoes - calceus.

On a woman - a table and peplum. Hairstyle with bouffant and overhead curls.

Roman warrior costume

Roman general and centurion
The aggressive campaigns of Rome led to the fact that the clothes of the soldiers became more comfortable and did not interfere with their movement.
In the early period of the Roman Republic, warriors wore a short sleeveless woolen tunic, and over it they put on a "loric" - a leather shell covered with metal plates. Outerwear was a thick woolen cloak - "trabea".

Roman legionnaires

In the era of the Empire, the “sagum” became the outerwear of ordinary warriors - a short cloak made of woolen fabric, borrowed by the Romans from the Gauls. It was such a typical clothing of a Roman soldier that the expression "put on a sagum" meant: "start a war." Leather or linen shells were covered with thin metal or bone plates in the form of scales or feathers. Scaled shells were worn by Roman military leaders.

gladiators and bugler announcing the beginning of the battle
Warriors wore sandals or boots and metal or leather leggings on their feet. Later, they began to wear woolen trousers below the knee, tightly fitting the leg. Legs up to the ankle and above were protected by boots ("kaligs"), which were held by strong straps.

The metal or leather helmets of the Roman soldiers were of the most varied form. In imperial times, centurion helmets were decorated with a silver-plated crest and a plume of feathers or horse hair. The helmets of generals and emperors were distinguished by especially skillful work. And the helmets of the standard-bearers were covered with animal skins.

Roman warrior in lorica:

The man is wearing a warrior costume: a leather shell, a cassock helmet with a horsehair crest.

On a woman - a table and a peplum thrown over her head, sandals.

On a woman: a lined cape, a tunic with a border

On the man: leather shell with shoulder pads, sagum cloak, calceus boots

Shoes in Ancient Rome

Shoes were divided into sandals (lat. soleae, sandalia), boots (lat. calcei) and boots (lat. caligae). Men wore mostly leather shoes. natural color, women's shoes differed little in shape, however, they were of various colors and from more soft skin. Wealthy women wore shoes adorned with pearls, gold and precious stones. Strong boots, according to modern experiments, could serve for marches of 500-1000 km, putting on such boots took about 3-4 minutes.

A. Feather - shoes without a heel, covering the ankle, were used everywhere;
B. Сalceus - shoes were worn with a dress and dressed outside the home;
C. Calceus Patrick - closed shoes with cross straps;
D. Caligae - used in the army, while reinforced with iron or copper nails;
E. soleae - shoes worn at home.
The Romans were not in the habit of walking barefoot.
Free Romans in everyday life wore sandals - "solea". They were tied to the leg crosswise with two straps. Wearing solea in public was considered indecent. The Romans also wore half boots and boots, shoes with straps, etc.

Going to public meetings, the Romans put on high (covering the foot to the ankles) leather semi-boots - “calceus” along with the toga. Unlike Greek crepes, they completely covered the leg.

Sandals

High officials (as well as the emperor during the Empire) wore a red leather calceus, on high heels, with silver ornaments; senator - black, with belts crossed in front.

Expensive men's shoes were made of leather of different colors and decorated with gold and silver plaques. The poor and slaves wore simple wooden shoes. The shoes of the Romans were a necessary part of the toilet, it was considered indecent to remove them even in home environment. The victorious commanders had purple shoes.

“Ancient Roman shoes, 2500 years old”
Peasants wore shoes made of wood or raw leather.

Women wore sandals and shoes made of soft colored leather. The shoes worn by noble Roman women were mostly made of light thin leather, embroidered with pearls and gold, and fitted the foot very tightly. Sometimes the Romans wore soft ankle boots.

Hairstyles and headdresses in ancient Rome

Fashion of the late Republic: clean-shaven faces and short, uncombable hair
The ancient Romans originally (until the end of the 3rd century BC) wore long hair and beards, but then it became fashionable to cut their hair and shave cleanly or wear small curled beards. The first barbers arrived in Rome from Sicily in 290 BC.

The ancient Roman state arose in the 8th century. BC. Initially, it was a city-state that occupied only a small part of the Apennine Peninsula (the territory of modern Rome), far from the mouth of the Tiber River. The ancestors of the ancient Romans - the Latins, who lived in Latium, located in the Tiber region, were distinguished by courage, endurance and severity.
The whole history of the Roman people, all stages of its development, were reflected in the clothes of the ancient Romans. In the distant past, the Romans were distinguished by the simplicity of manners, and their simple clothes served them only to protect them from heat or cold. It was made from the skins and wool of animals, later - from flax. Men and women wore shirts and cloaks, shoes in sandals and shoes with straps.
There are two periods in the history of the Roman state: republican and imperial. The life of the Romans in the republican period was still quite strict. The Roman costume was similar to the Greek one, it was also draped, but the aesthetic ideal of the ancient Romans was not a beautiful human body, but harsh courageous warriors and majestic women. Therefore, the complex Roman costume, which was originally made of wool, and later of linen, gave the figure a static, majestic, a certain theatricality. In the imperial period, clothes become richer and more magnificent. Imported silk fabrics appear.
During the heyday of the Roman state, its borders expanded greatly, including the territory of modern England, France, Spain, Holland and other countries. Rome became a huge world power that waged endless wars and extensive trade. The plundered wealth, the many slaves who did all the work, led to luxury even in everyday life. All this was reflected in the character of the ancient Roman costume.
The Romans dressed in clothes of bright colors: red, purple, purple, yellow, brown. A white suit was considered ceremonial, it was worn for ceremonial exits.
The Romans made clothes for women. Until the time of the empire, the Romans wore home-made clothes. Even Emperor Augustus (1st century BC) was proud that his tunic and toga were made by the hands of his mother and wife. Unlike the Greeks, who wove their clothes in one piece on a loom, Roman clothes were sewn together.

Male costume in ancient Rome

The basis of the Roman costume was the "tunic", which was considered the lower, home clothing. To appear in it on the street without outerwear was indecent for a Roman citizen. The tunic had much in common with the Greek tunic, but, unlike it, it was an overhead garment: it was sewn on the shoulders and put on over the head. The length of the tunic could be different, but basically it reached the middle of the calves. There were several types of tunics: "colobium", "talaris" and "dalmatic". The colobium had short sleeves and was belted. Talaris was worn by nobility, this tunic had long, narrow sleeves. The dalmatic was longer, with wide sleeves, which, when unfolded, resembled a cross. Therefore, the dalmatic was worn by the Christian Romans.
Tunics of representatives of various social strata depended on their nobility and wealth. Purple was a symbol of power in ancient Rome. Persons holding high public positions wore tunics with purple stripes sewn on. So, on the tunic of the senator, a wide vertical purple strip (“clavus”) was sewn, on the tunic of the riders - two narrow purple stripes. The victorious commanders wore purple tunics embroidered with golden palm branches.
Sometimes (especially during the cold season) the Romans wore several tunics at once. Emperor Augustus is known to have worn four tunics at the same time.
The most important outerwear of the ancient Romans was the "toga" - a cloak made of a large rectangular or elliptical piece of woolen fabric. The size of the toga was approximately 6 meters by 1 meter 80 centimeters, and usually the slaves draped their master in it. For the Romans, the toga was their hallmark, and they called themselves "gens togata" - "dressed in a toga." The toga was a symbol of the civic dignity of a Roman. If he committed a crime, then by law he was deprived of the right to wear these clothes. Slaves, foreigners and exiles also had no right to wear a toga. The victorious commander appeared in a purple toga woven with gold - a pict. Later, it was replaced by a purple cloak - "paludamentum", the ancestor of the mantles of European kings.
There were also other types of cloaks. Roman emperors and the highest nobility wore a "paludamentum", which was thrown over the back and left shoulder, and buckled on the right. It could also be worn wrapped several times in the form of a scarf around the left arm.
The ceremonial cloak was also a “lacerna” - a rectangular piece of fabric that covered the back and both shoulders and chipped off in front. The lacerna was made of very expensive fabric woven with gold and silver, and it reached the knees.
The poor wore a "penula" - a woolen or leather cloak in the form of a semicircle, often with a sewn-on hood. Penula was the clothing of shepherds and travelers. It was often made of dense woolen fabric with a "bouffant". Roman dandies wore a pencil case made of precious fabrics.
Pants came into use by the Romans from the III century. AD - this detail of the costume was also borrowed by them from the barbarians (before the war with the Gauls, they did not wear them). But only soldiers constantly wore them.

Women's costume in ancient Rome

The women's costume of the ancient Romans is in many ways similar to the men's. He was supposed to give monumentality and majesty to the figure of a Roman matron, to emphasize a leisurely smooth gait. It was made at first from woolen fabrics, and later, during the period of the empire, from light silk multi-colored fabrics - sometimes translucent, woven with gold and silver, which from the 2nd century. BC. began to be imported in large numbers from other countries.
Roman women were distinguished by a special passion for rich outfits and jewelry. In order to limit this passion for panache, a strict law was even issued in Rome prohibiting excessive luxury. However, this did not lead to anything: after the wars with Asia Minor, even more oriental goods and jewelry began to arrive in Rome, and the desire for luxury only intensified. If in earlier times Roman matrons dressed in white clothes, decorated with only a narrow purple border, then later they began to sew clothes from multi-colored, checkered or bright plain (lilac, purple, green, yellow, red) fabrics. And despite any prohibitions, the Romans dressed in translucent, golden and precious purple fabrics.
The Roman women wore a long and rather wide tunic as an undergarment or at home. Usually she was woolen and girdled. Tunics were made both without sleeves and with long sleeves; sleeves could also be split, with fasteners along the entire length of the arm.
Noble women put on a “table” over a tunic - an outer garment similar to a tunic. It was long, with or without sleeves, and girdled under the breast with a beautiful belt. A wide pleated frill (“insista”) was sewn at the bottom, embroidered with gold sequins and pearls or decorated with a purple trim. The collar and armholes were also decorated with a wide border. A sleeved tunic was worn over a sleeveless tunic (and vice versa). Stola was considered the clothing of married women. It must be worn when appearing in public places. Slaves were forbidden to wear a table.
The outerwear also served as a cloak - "palla", similar to the Greek himation. It was draped in various ways, with a slouching at the waist, and sometimes the head was covered with the upper edge. The palla was fastened on the shoulders with clasps ("agraphs").
The ancient Romans gave the figure a slenderness, tightening the waist with a piece of dense fabric or thin leather under the tunic and supporting the chest with it (which anticipated future women's corsets).

Roman patrician clothing:

The man is wearing an embroidered tunic, a toga, shoes - calceus.

On a woman - a table and peplum. Hairstyle with bouffant and overhead curls.

Roman warrior costume

The aggressive campaigns of Rome led to the fact that the clothes of the soldiers became more comfortable and did not interfere with their movement.
In the early period of the Roman Republic, warriors wore a short woolen sleeveless tunic, and over it they put on a "loric" - a leather shell covered with metal plates. Outerwear was a thick woolen cloak - "trabea". In the era of the Empire, the “sagum” became the outerwear of ordinary warriors - a short cloak made of woolen fabric, borrowed by the Romans from the Gauls. It was such a typical clothing of a Roman soldier that the expression "put on a sagum" meant: "start a war." Leather or linen shells were covered with thin metal or bone plates in the form of scales or feathers. Scaled shells were worn by Roman military leaders.
Warriors wore sandals or boots and metal or leather leggings on their feet. Later, they began to wear woolen trousers below the knee, tightly fitting the leg. Legs up to the ankle and above were protected by boots ("kaligs"), which were held by strong straps.
The metal or leather helmets of the Roman soldiers were of the most varied form. In imperial times, centurion helmets were decorated with a silver-plated crest and a plume of feathers or horsehair. The helmets of generals and emperors were distinguished by especially skillful work. And the helmets of the standard-bearers were covered with animal skins.

Roman warrior in lorica:

The man is wearing a warrior costume: a leather shell, a cassock helmet with a horsehair crest.

On a woman - a table and a peplum thrown over her head, sandals.

On a woman: a lined cape, a tunic with a border

On the man: leather shell with shoulder pads, sagum cloak, calceus boots

Shoes in Ancient Rome

The Romans were not in the habit of walking barefoot.
Free Romans in everyday life wore sandals - "solea". They were tied to the leg crosswise with two straps. Wearing solea in public was considered indecent. The Romans also wore half boots and boots, shoes with belts, etc. Going to public meetings, the Romans put on high (covering the foot to the ankles) leather half boots - “calceus” together with the toga. Unlike Greek crepes, they completely covered the leg. High officials (as well as the emperor during the Empire) wore red leather calceus, high heels, with silver ornaments; senator - black, with belts crossed in front. Expensive men's shoes were made of leather of different colors and decorated with gold and silver plaques. The poor and slaves wore simple wooden shoes. The shoes of the Romans were a necessary part of the toilet, it was considered indecent to take them off even at home. The victorious commanders had purple shoes.
Peasants wore shoes made of wood or raw leather.
Women wore sandals and shoes made of soft colored leather. The shoes worn by noble Roman women were mostly made of light thin leather, embroidered with pearls and gold, and fitted the foot very tightly. Sometimes the Romans wore soft ankle boots.

Hairstyles and headdresses in ancient Rome

The ancient Romans originally (until the end of the 3rd century BC) wore long hair and beards, but then it became fashionable to cut their hair and shave or wear small curled beards. The first barbers arrived in Rome from Sicily in 290 BC.
The hairstyles of the Romans were very different: with bangs above the forehead, with smoothly combed or curled hair. In imperial times, dandies not only curled their hair or wore wigs, but also anointed them with expensive oils, sprinkled with gold dust.
The Romans, like the Greeks, did not have a custom to cover their heads. Hats were worn only by judges and priests. During bad weather, the Romans protected their heads with a hood, they could throw a part of the toga over their heads. But sometimes they put on caps and hats similar to Greek ones (for example, petas). The common people wore straw hats or leather hats.
The hairstyles of noble Roman patrician women were complex and very diverse, and sometimes bizarre. They wore "Greek" hairstyles, combing their hair smoothly and tying it in a knot at the back of their heads. They divided their hair into a straight parting, braided them into braids that wrapped around their heads. Curled long curls, framing their face, or whipped curled hair in front, smoothly combing the rest back.
A typical Roman women's hairstyle was a high hairstyle of curls mounted on a frame, shaped like a Russian kokoshnik. Part of the curls was strengthened in rows on the frame, and the rest of the hair was braided and laid on the back of the head or descended in the form of braids along the temples and on the back of the head.
Blonde and blond hair were considered the most fashionable, and the Romans used various means to lighten their hair. They also wore wigs and false hair, for which the braids of blond German women were used.
The headdresses of Roman women were the same as those of Greek women: headbands, round caps, covered with gold or silver nets. Noble patrician women attached a thin veil in the form of a veil to their headdress, descending over their shoulders.

Roman women's hairstyles:

Jewelry in Ancient Rome

The ancient Romans wore wreaths of fresh flowers. During feasts, they placed wreaths of ivy, myrtle, roses, and violets on their heads. Wreaths decorated the heads of generals, orators, priests, winners of sports competitions, participants in sacrifices. Famous poets were crowned with a laurel wreath (the word "laureate" comes from the Latin name for laurel - "laurea"). The commander who managed to save the army from precarious position, the soldiers brought a wreath of grass woven by them. The victor was crowned with a laurel wreath, which later began to be made of gold, and then turned into a jagged wreath, called the “radiata crown”.
Roman women wove headbands adorned with pearls, gold, precious stones into their hair, wore gold braided nets, attaching them to their hair. beautiful stilettos from Ivory.
Male adornments were "bulls" - round medallions-amulets that guarded childhood, which young men wore until civil age (until the onset of 17 years). On the ring finger of the left hand, the Romans wore rings - at first they were iron, later gold. Some dandies adorned their hands with several rings at once. Buckles could also serve as decorations.
Noble Roman women were distinguished by a special, extreme predilection for jewelry. They adopted most of them from Greek women and adorned themselves jewelry fine work of gold, Indian pearls, precious stones. They wore neck chains and necklaces, coiled snake rings and bracelets, headbands and tiaras, beautiful buckles. Hair was adorned with strings of pearls. The gold and silver earrings worn by the Roman women had the most varied form. The most beautiful and most expensive were considered pearl, having the shape of drops. Amber and crystal balls, which Roman matrons held in their hands, were especially popular: it was believed that they refreshed their hands.
The costume of a noble Roman woman was complemented by a very expensive peacock feather fan or an umbrella, which served as protection from the sun or rain.
The ancient Romans were skilled in the use of cosmetics. They borrowed it from the Greeks and Egyptians. Roman women used powder fragrant oils, ointments, blushes and ointments, special means for lightening hair, for skin rejuvenation. They learned the art of make-up, used various lotions and lipsticks to rejuvenate the skin of the face, used lead white, pumice tooth powder.
The Roman women also used mirrors, which at first were made from a mixture of tin and copper, and later very expensive ones appeared, made of pure silver, with gilding on the reverse side. In addition to hand mirrors, the Romans also had large wall mirrors.
Toiletries were kept by Roman women in toilet bags: silver quadrangular mirrors, similar to Etruscan ones, decorated on the reverse side; ivory combs; hair curlers; gold and silver hairpins and pins; scissors; jars of blush, lipstick, whitewash, perfume bottles, ribbons, etc.

Source - "History in costumes. From pharaoh to dandy". Author - Anna Blaze, artist - Daria Chaltykyan

Clothing of Ancient Rome

If the history of the Greek costume began with an unusual Asian variegation, prim splendor and petty artificiality and ended with noble simplicity, picturesque breadth and a large pattern of folds, then the Roman costume changed in the opposite direction: from a simple, unpretentious form to pretentious redundancy and pomposity.

In the early stages of the Roman state, the aesthetic ideal of the Romans was stern warriors and majestic women. The ancient Romans appear before us as physically strong, developed, hardy people. Not the Greek cult of a beautiful athletic body, harmony of proportions, but the severity and courage of a warrior, adaptability to any conditions, rigor and simplicity - these are the main features of the ideal man of the early Republican period.

Ideally, the Romans embodied majesty, slowness and a certain static character. A figure with a rounded line of shoulders, wide hips and a flat chest was considered beautiful.

From the Etruscans, their closest neighbors in antiquity, who loved luxury and splendor, the poor agricultural population of Rome could hardly learn anything; in any case, in the first centuries, Roman costume developed independently. This is evidenced by the name "Roma togata" - "Rome wearing a toga" - which distinguished him from all neighboring tribes. Like Greece during the Persian wars, the Romans developed their own type of national dress, which by the 2nd century. BC. shaped like a majestic toga.

Men's and women's costumes began to separate already in the early period of the history of Ancient Rome, when the Roman women wore ancient Greek clothes, and the men continued to wear Roman togas and cloaks. This noticeable difference existed until the late empire, when almost the same type of deaf outfit was common among both sexes, and men's and women's costumes became similar.

The aristocratic nature of the republic, the privileged position of Roman citizens in relation to other inhabitants of the vast territory of the Roman state, the developed bureaucratic apparatus headed by the emperor - all this created various problems within the free population of Ancient Rome. social groups who tried to emphasize their isolation both in appearance and in clothing.

The white toga, for example, was the outerwear of only full-fledged Roman citizens. Slaves did not have the right to wear a toga at all, and class differences were also observed in women's costume. The class difference in costume in ancient Rome was also manifested in a sharp difference in the quality and wealth of the same type of clothing among representatives of the nobility of Roman society and among the rest of the population.

The wretchedness of the clothes of commoners was sharply opposed to the luxurious costumes of the nobility. According to contemporaries, the wife of Emperor Claudius (AD 4I-54) was adorned with jewels worth an astronomical sum of 40 million sesterces on one of her ceremonial exits.

And just as in Greece, it was a matter of protecting national clothes from alien influence and from spreading luxury. An example is the law on dress of the tribune Oppias (215 BC), directed against the luxury of Roman women's outfits.

In fact, this danger was most threatened by Greece after it became dependent on Rome (146 BC) and the Romans had the opportunity to directly perceive a Greek culture higher than their own.

In addition, the clothes of the Greeks were more comfortable, lighter, more elegant. At this time, the majestic, but uncomfortable, restricting movement of the toga is preserved only as a civil (ceremonial) costume, and clothes that are very close to Greek become everyday. Same role as in Greece chiton, in Rome starts to play tunic. It was most often worn as house dress without any additions.

The difference between a tunic and a chiton was that the chiton consisted of one piece of fabric and was wound around the body, while the tunic (as a kind of long blouse) was worn over the head. At first, it was sleeveless, with slits for the arms (sleeves to the elbow appeared later), ending below the knees and girdled at the hips. The tunic had a rectangular cut. Purple stripes ran along the chest and back - one or two each (they could indicate, for example, the rank of a senator). The main color was white, the material was wool.

Later, men began to wear a tunic that reached to the heels, and as it increased material wealth they even began to put on several tunics at once - one on top of the other.

The Roman women wore the same clothes, but always wider and toe-length. At first, the tunic served them as a simple home dress, but with the growth of prosperity, it began to play a more modest role as a shirt (lower tunic made of thin linen), and another type of tunic took its place - table(stola - lat. rich), with folds, a long train, with or without a belt, looking very impressive. It could be with sleeves (of greater or lesser length) or without them at all; the sleeves were open along the entire length and in two or three places from the elbow to the shoulder they were fastened with clasps (agraphs). Along the edges of the table, it was almost always bordered with colored embroidery.

Over the tunic, the Romans wore outerwear: men - a toga, women - pallu. The toga was at first a lighter form of cloak, but over time it became like a long and heavy one. himation. We do not know of images of its earlier, simpler form, and the later one, with a truly Roman arrangement of folds and an abundance of fabric, looks much more magnificent than its prototype, the himation. It is a huge piece of fabric (about 3.5 m wide, over 5 m long), cut in the shape of an ellipse or half an ellipse, which wraps around the body in a much more complicated way than the himation.

Oddly enough, there is still no complete clarity in ideas about the shape and cut of the toga. Only the following is known. Before wrapping the toga around the body, the two constituent segments were folded in such a way as to obtain two uneven-sized ovals (semi-ovals), then a longitudinal fold was carefully molded and left overnight in wooden clamps. After that, one end, often with a lead tassel-weight, was lowered with a rounding outward over the left shoulder forward so that it was dragged along the floor. The rest of the folded fabric was pulled over the back, covering the body from behind from shoulders to heels, the other end was passed through the right armpit forward, directed obliquely along the chest to the left shoulder and thrown over the shoulder and arm back; the hands remained free.

The difference between the toga and the himation was that both parts of the toga, separated by a fold, were applied to the body at the same time; a large one covered the lower part of the case; the smaller upper one, going to the shoulder, formed a kind of overlay - umbo(letters, ledge on the shield, later - a fold of clothes, drapery). Above this overlay, they made an overlay on the chest like a pocket - the so-called sinus(sinus - lat. arc, lap, sinus), for this, pulling up the front end of the toga, dragging along the floor, and opening the feet. Then the umbo was pulled over the right shoulder, covering it along with the arm.

It goes without saying that the toga, with its grandiosity and extreme complexity of styling, could not serve casual wear. Already in the II century. BC. it was preserved only as festive and civil clothing: among noble Romans - from pure white wool, among young men - with one purple stripe along the edge (toga praetexta - bordered, framed), among emperors of a later time - all purple.

To replace as an unconditionally necessary outerwear, the Romans used penula(paenula) - a warm cloak made of thick castor, closed on all sides, with a cutout for the head in the middle, covering the body starting from the shoulders, often with a hood. Later, this cloak began to be fastened on the right shoulder, like a Greek mantle. Similar but shorter cloak sagum(sagum) worn by soldiers. In origin, it was a Gallic riding cloak.

Just as men wore a toga outside the home, Roman women put on a palla - a long cloak, sometimes reaching to the ankle and usually consisting of one piece of cloth larger than human height. During sacrifices, they covered the head with it or wrapped it around the body below the shoulders. Palla either freely descended, or pressed against the body with a belt. Palla folded in half lengthwise. One half of it covered the chest, the other - the back; on the shoulders, by means of fasteners, both of these halves were connected.

The palla was put on in different ways: it could cover both shoulders, like a himation, or be fastened with a clasp on one or both shoulders, or pounce on the head and envelop the entire figure. The material was rather thin wool - purple of different shades, heliotrope, mallow (pale) or yellow.

Sometimes women wore an overdress over a tunic - a table, reminiscent of a tunic, but longer and wider, with a lot of folds. If the lower tunic had sleeves, then the table was sleeveless and pulled together with a belt under the chest itself, forming a lap. On the bottom of the table, they were necessarily sheathed with a pleated frill, sometimes representing something like a train. Appear without tables or pallas in public place was considered indecent.

Bulky togas and pallas made it impossible to move quickly. In general, slowness in gait, impeccability of drapery, some theatricality in movements were considered the height of grace.

The main color of ancient Roman clothing in the early period was white, which showed the privilege of full Roman citizens. White color partially retained its meaning and later as the color of ceremonial clothes, especially when making sacrifices and other religious ceremonies and rites. Slaves and inferior citizens were not allowed to wear white clothes. The colors of their attire were dark: brown, yellow-brown and gray tones. Starting from II Art. BC, along with white, clothes of other colors were widely worn. The colors of women's suits were especially diverse, while men's had only red, purple and brown tones. Since the time of Domitienus Flavius (81-96) and especially Theodosius II, it was strictly forbidden to wear clothes dyed in the highest grades of purple, even by courtiers - purple became an exclusively imperial color.

During the period of the Republic and the early Roman Empire, clothes made of smooth single-color fabrics without patterns prevailed, decorated only with border stripes of predominantly dark cherry, purple and blue flowers. Later, multi-colored stripes and patches of various shapes appeared in many details of the costumes (on the collar, sleeves, chest, on the shoulders, below at the level of the knees). The size of these stripes is 15-20 cm. Patterned fabrics were widely used only in the costumes of the late Roman Empire, that is, starting from the 3rd century BC. AD Until that time, they were used only in special cases, namely, for the clothes of victors and emperors. Late Roman patterned fabrics had a large continuous pattern of geometric shapes(circles, squares, rhombuses) with inscribed in them plant motifs(rosettes, quatrefoils, weaves of ivy), but very stylized, much more conventional than in the ancient Greek ornament. The patterns on the fabrics were woven or embroidered with two or three colors in such a way that they created the multi-colored multi-coloredness of antique clothes, and at the same time burdened the fabric, making it unnecessarily lush. This splendor was further enhanced by golden decor.

Ornamental stripes on clothes with pattern motifs at first did not differ much from ancient Greek ones, but later they became more complex and more stylized. Lush leaves of acanite, oak and laurel appeared, garlands of flowers, flowers and fruits, complex vegetable curls. Later, these still completely antique, realistic ornamental borders changed to stripes completely filled with geometric patterns.

The most common material from which clothing was made throughout the history of Ancient Rome was wool. The Romans have long been able to produce different types of woolen fabrics, in particular, very thin and soft, and also dense, fleecy. Along with wool, linen fabrics were also used, mainly for underwear, which was worn directly on the body. Already in the 1st century AD. silk was also known in Rome. The appeal to silk fabrics spread more and more, and already in the late period of the empire, silk clothing became quite familiar in the life of the rich sections of the population, especially in the east. At first, these were light, thin silk and semi-silk fabrics, including translucent ones (for noble fashionistas), and then more and more dense, heavy fabrics prevailed.

The Romans also had a special thin veil, sometimes completely transparent. In addition to fine wool, for clothing they used transparent sea-green silk - Kos (named after the island of Kos in the Aegean Sea), which was delivered to Italy through Greece. Wall paintings in Pompeii show a wide variety of colors and patterns of Roman clothing.
The venerable matron gradually turned into an elegant, richly dressed lady. The rest of the toilet articles were brought in line with this. Of no small importance for the perception of body shapes and the corresponding styling of clothing were some intimate accessories of the women's toilet. Both among the Greeks and the Romans, they included mamillare - a soft leather bandage that was worn on the naked body and supported the chest from below, and strophium - a chest bandage worn over the lower tunic.

Roman men cared little about their hair, and they never had such luxurious curls as the Greeks. In the early period they wore a bushy beard of moderate length; from the 3rd century BC. it became customary to shave the beard in numerous Greek barbershops. Only under Emperor Hadrian did short full beards reappear.

The hairstyle of the Romans was initially quite modest, but during the time of the empire, more and more magnificent and complex structures appeared, the creation of which required the help of several slaves.
Combs and brushes, hairpins, hair curlers, all kinds of mirrors, cosmetics, hair dyes, etc. are widely used. During the wars with the Germans, golden hair, like the Germanic women, was in fashion, and the Roman women either wore wigs or dyed or bleached their own hair.

There were many varieties of Roman women's hairstyles - from a simple, so-called "Greek knot" with a parting to a diadem with hair raised high above the forehead. Hair, in addition, was abundantly equipped with hairpins (sometimes with figurines), diadems, pearls and stones. Earrings, necklaces, brooches, bracelets, rings, belts were also used for decoration. The Romans significantly improved footwear compared to the Greek.

Pants were not originally known to the Romans. But the legionnaires who served in the "barbarian" lands in the north and west brought from there, in addition to the above-mentioned Gallic cloak (sagum) with a hood (cucullus), also pants (braccae), this "most non-Roman clothing", which appeared in Europe in the earliest period of the existence of the Indo-Europeans, but only many centuries later she was able to step over the Alps.

Before that, the Romans wore windings. They also borrowed wide trousers from the Germans, reaching to the ankles. On the monuments of the era of the empire, Roman legionnaires are always depicted in stockings reaching to the calves; over them, shoes are worn, woven from belts, which cover the heel and sole (except for the fingers) and end slightly above the ankle.

Rome. Empire Warriors and Gladiators

1. Heavily armed legionary from the VIII legion of Augustus. leather cuirass, leather pants, a belt with metal overlays, a rectangular shield (scutum), a sword in a sling (balteus), a throwing spear (pilum) and a metal helmet (cassis) with a vertical decoration - a sultan (crista).

2. Legionnaire (similar to those depicted on Trajan's column). Leather cuirass with an overlay - an iron strip (lorica segmentata).

3. Vexillary, or signifer, is a standard-bearer with a bear or lion skin. Shell with rings, leather vest, sword, dagger and round shield (clipeus) made of leather with metal lining.

4. Aquilifer - a standard-bearer with the sign of the legion - an eagle (there were 4200 - 6000 soldiers in the legion: 10 cohorts of three maniples each).

1. Signalman with a horn (sogpi) - a large curved metal horn, in a tunic with wide stripes in the middle.

2. Gladiator with net (retiarius). He is protected only by a shell tied to his left arm, a belt with an apron and greaves with windings. 3. Mirmillo (mirmillo - a gladiator in Gallic weapons). Helmet with visor, shield, belt, greaves and sword.

4. Thracian gladiator (thrax). The Thracian armament is the same as that of the myrmillon, and, in addition, another pair of greaves and a Thracian short curved saber (sica).

5. The head of the gladiators (lanista) with a rod, in a wide tunic with two stripes, with a gesture ordering to stop the battle. Semi-open sandals.

1. Centurion (lat. centurio) - the commander of the centurion. A scaly shell, on it are military insignia - silver phalerae (phalerae - metal jewelry). Jeweled greaves, double-folded cape and wand made of vine- Insignia of a centurion. Nearby is a helmet with a sultan, a sword in a scabbard.

2. Senior officer. Cloak of fine purple wool. On the helmet is a sultan in the form of a caterpillar. Round metal shield in the early Greek style. Trajan's column.

3. Rider in leather armor and trousers. Hexagonal shield made of leather skillfully sheathed with metal. A horseman's spear and a long sword (spatha), which came into use from the end of the 1st century BC. AD

4. A soldier of the auxiliary troops of the people allied to the Romans (Germans). Apron, belt, closed outer garment (paenula) with hood, oval shield, sword, dagger and two javelins. From a tombstone in Mainz.

Ancient Rome. Men's fashion

1. Toga, laid in a simple way over a tunic. The so-called statua togata (statue dressed in a toga), a portrait statue of an Etruscan in peacetime clothing.

2. Pontiff (pontifex) - a priest who makes a sacrifice. The toga also covers the head.

3. Supplier of sacrificial animals or priest's assistant at sacrifices - victimarius (victima - sacrifice).

4. A resident of the city of Gabia in Latium, where the toga was worn in a special way: the end of the selected toga was thrown over the left shoulder and from under right hand pulled up to his chest.
Left: coin with the head of Julius Caesar wearing a laurel wreath.
Right: A coin from the reign of Emperor Aurelian (270 - 275 AD) with an imperial crown.

5. Julius Caesar addresses his soldiers with a speech. Over the armor bound in bronze is a military cloak paludamentum, which was worn mainly by commanders during the war. It was longer than the usual sagum military cloak, and fastened on the right shoulder with a clasp - an agraph.

6. Julius Caesar in plain white male toga(toga ruga - pure toga, or toga virilis - toga of maturity), which the Romans had the right to wear from the age of 17.

7. Official in the pose of a speaker. Toga, bordered by a single purple stripe (toga praetexta - bordered toga), was the hallmark of the Romans, who held a high position.

8. Emperor in long raincoat paludamentum, which was worn mainly by generals.

9. Lictor - a servant from the retinue that accompanied the highest dignitaries, with a fascia (fastis - a bunch of rods, a sign of dignity).

10. The emperor in a long purple toga with a train, which was originally worn by censors - elected officials who monitored the receipt of taxes and the well-being of the population. Constant dress of emperors, from the reign of Domitian (81 - 96 AD).

11. Emperor in a purple robe, embroidered with gold, over a belted toga.

12. The emperor, making a sacrifice, in a tunic and penula - a travel cloak.

13. A young man in a pencil case.

14. Hooded collar (cucullus).

15. Pointed hat for protection from the sun, similar to the women's hat of figurines from Tanagra.

Ancient Rome. Clothes of citizens, women and priests

1. Charioteer (auriga) in the arena, in a colored tunic, with a palm branch - a sign of victory.

2. A man in a long wide tunic (tunica talaris - toe-length tunic) without sleeves.

3. Villager in clothes from sheepskin, high boots and a wide-brimmed hat.

4. Fisherman in a short shirt, leaving the chest open on the right.

5. Penula (cloak with a felt hood), rear view. The prototype of the North African burnus.

6. A slave in a high-belted tunic and sandals with windings.

7. Camillus - a young man of impeccable conduct from a respectable family, helping the priest during the sacrifices. Belted tunic. Uncovered long hair, wreath.

8. A woman in a cloak and a short belted tunic, under which there is another tunic - an inner, or subucula (shirt), longer, with tight-fitting sleeves.

9. Tunic from a single piece of fabric (tunica recta - straight), reaching to the feet. Long veil under the diadem.

10. Wife of Drusus, commander who successfully fought against the Germans at the end of the 1st century. BC

11. A woman in a belted tunic (tunica mulierbis - female).

12. Vestals - priestesses of Vesta, the goddess of the hearth and chastity. Cloak and veil over a long tunic.

13. Senior vestal.

14. Empress Agrippina the Elder (wife of Germanicus and mother of Caligula, who died in 33 AD). Tunic in small folds, with semi-long sleeves, a cloak is thrown over it. Wig with side braids.

Hairstyles in Ancient Rome

The hairstyles of the Roman women under Emperor Augustus were striking in their diversity. Noble ladies, only for the construction of their hairstyles, kept several slaves. Those who could not afford it or did not aspire to luxury, of course, were content with more modest hairstyles and scarves. Simple hairstyles with a parting and a knot generally corresponded to the Greek ones. But noble and middle-aged women preferred skillful hairstyles. 28 shows a knot (nodus) with a bow of combed hair in the middle and laid crosswise. In addition to ribbons, nets, bandages, tiaras or simple headbands were worn. wavy hairstyle like a Greek one is shown at 26. Braids, matched different ways, shown at 23, 25 (rear view), 27. The widespread hairstyle of noble Roman women was tight-fitting and arranged in rows curls in the form of rings - 20, 22, 23. Very skillful and majestic, almost like a jagged top of a fortress wall, looks like the hairstyle of Empress Messalina (21).

Materials used in the article

Sidorenko V.I. History of styles in art and costume
Lyudmila Kibalova, Olga Gerbenova, Milena Lamarova. "Illustrated Encyclopedia of FASHION. Translation into Russian by I.M. Ilyinskaya and A.A. Loseva

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The Romans, especially the noble and rich, paid a lot of attention to their appearance. By the way a person is dressed, it was possible to determine his social status and occupation.

Tunic - 1; toga - 2; pallium - 3; lacerna - 4.

The tunic was an all-class clothing worn by all of Italy, from a poor slave and a simple soldier to a rich horseman and a noble senator. It was a woolen shirt without sleeves or with short sleeves that did not reach the elbow. The tunic was girded and pulled so that in front it went down just below the knees, and in the back it reached the knee bend. Slaves, soldiers and travelers could wear shorter tunics. Wealthy Romans who did not physical labor, wore white tunics, among peasants, artisans and slaves 60 they were dark, non-marking. Various cloaks were used to protect against wind and rain: the pallium, a piece of soft cloth that is thrown over the shoulder and wrapped around the waist, or the lacerne, a wide open knee-length cloak, often with a hood.

In one tunic, slaves and the poor usually walked along the streets of Rome, noble and wealthy Romans always wore a toga on top, which only Roman citizens had the right to wear. The toga was a large piece woolen fabric in the form of an ellipse, its length could reach 6 m. The toga was put on in several steps, and it was impossible to put it on on your own, without someone else's help. From the end of the 1st century BC. as part of the city servants, they kept specialist slaves who knew how to straighten and lay the folds of the toga. A clumsily put on toga evoked grins from those around him. Over time, the toga turned from a symbol of Roman citizenship into clothing that was worn only when performing official and official business.

Women's clothing

Tunic - 5; palla - 6.

Women's clothing consisted of a lower long tunic, which was pulled together with a belt just under the chest, and stbls - an upper tunic that reached to the legs, with many folds and short sleeves. The stbla was tied with a belt at the waist. Leaving the house, the woman threw on herself a palla - a long wide shawl in which one could wrap herself from head to toe.

Shoes

Slaves and peasants wore in bad weather wooden shoes, and in dry weather, light sandals, which they themselves wove from ropes. It was supposed to be worn with a toga high shoes with straps completely covering the leg. The same shoes, only made of soft and colored leather, were worn by women.

hairstyles

Men cut their hair in accordance with the requirements of fashion, sometimes a little less, sometimes completely short. They shaved their mustaches and beards smoothly, although without the use of soap and hot water it was very unpleasant and painful. Women wore long hair, sometimes spending many hours a day to create complex hairstyles from braids, curled curls, ribbons and hairpieces in the fashion of those years. From the end of the 1st century BC e. many wealthy Roman women began to dye their hair and wear wigs.