The history of the appearance of spirits. The history of perfumery is an art from antiquity. Raw materials for production
Russian State Agrarian University - Moscow Agricultural Academy named after
K.A. Timiryazev
Department of Medicinal Plants
abstract
on the topic: « Perfumery. History of perfumery»
Completed by: Master's student
111 groups Guseva V.A.
Checked by: Malankina E.L.
Moscow
2011
Content.
- Perfumery. The history of the development of perfumery………………………….....3
Perfumery in antiquity………………………………………………….. ..3
2.2. Greece………………………………………………………………………4
2.3. Rome……………………………………………………………………… …..5
2.4. Islamic World……………………………………………………………..5
2.5. From the Middle Ages to the Classics……………………………………………...6
2.6. The Age of Enlightenment. ……………………………………………………….eight
3. At the dawn of modernity…………………………………………………………9
4. Perfumery of the twentieth century………………………………………………………….11
5. Classification of perfumes by smells……………………………………………..13
6. Creators of famous spirits………...………………………………………….15
7. References……………………………………………………… .......18
- Perfumery. The history of the development of perfumery.
The Greeks, on the other hand, brought new fragrances from their expeditions, and in ancient Rome, smells were given healing power. Barbarian invasions put a stop to the use of fragrances in the West. And then the peoples of Islam began to develop the art of perfumery. Arabs and Persians became incomparable connoisseurs of spices by inventing the still and improving distillation.
It was necessary to wait until the twelfth century for Christendom to rediscover the delight in scents in their use, whether for hygiene purposes or simply for pleasure, or to combat plague or miasma. The 16th century combined the profession of a glover with the profession of a perfumer, because perfumed gloves came into fashion. If medieval society practiced baths and ablutions, then during the Renaissance and beyond, in the 16th and 17th centuries, they abandoned their use. As revenge, fragrance consumption has doubled to mask unpleasant odors...
The 17th century offers a choice of civet and musk, which in the Age of Enlightenment preferred delicate, floral and fruity scents. The 18th century is known as the age of seduction, rich in new fragrances and bottles. In the 19th century, advances in chemistry made it possible to artificially reproduce smells that exist in nature, but also to create new ones. This was the beginning of the perfume industry. Grass established his skills in the processing of flower raw materials.
Our century, not stingy with either luxury or progress, has not ceased to confirm the place of perfumery in the privileged world of art, but also in the ruthless world of commercial competition...
- Perfumery in antiquity.
- Ancient Egypt.
Fumigation was quite simple: you just had to put a tree, spice, fruit or resin on a heat source and wait for the smell to spread. This method was soon adopted by the temples, where gradually the simple ingredients were supplanted by increasingly complex mixtures, as evidenced by the hieroglyphic recipes found at Edfu and Philae. For example, the ingredients of the famous Kyphi incense were myrrh, mastic, juniper berries, fenugreek seeds, pistachios, crushed, then sieved. The resulting powder was mixed with wine, and then with a product obtained from the resin of coniferous trees and honey.
To improve the effect of fumigation, the Egyptians used two types of containers: a metal vessel with burning coals and a "hand with incense", in the form of a sleeve made of wood or bronze, ending in an open palm, on which a vessel with incense rested. Ointments and perfumed oils were applied therapeutic purposes. Distillation was still unknown, and hence pure alcohol, and therefore fats (vegetable oils, animal fat) were used to absorb the smells of flowers or resins. Dyes and medicinal products were added to this base. Ointments were stored in vases, most often made of alabaster, or in vessels for wine. They also found small vials made of faience, stone or ceramics, usually in the form of animals! Later, glass bottles appeared: jugs with handles, amphoras, vases and vessels, decorated with multi-colored drawings.
From the Ancient Empire to the end of the Middle Empire, odorants were mainly used for religious purposes:
- funeral;
- lubrication;
- worship;
- Rites of purification.
Fragrances were used on holidays, during the New Empire period (1580-1085 BC), when each celebration had its own special flavor. Fragrant products became objects of secular use, even if they were made by priests. Women used ointments and perfumed oils for their toilets or for rejuvenation, and also did not do without them during love rituals.
- Greece.
The Greeks attributed divine origin to fragrances. The deceased, whose bodies were perfumed, were buried along with personal items, which necessarily included a bottle of incense. The spherical vessels made it easy to apply the ointment directly to the skin. They were made in Corinth, as were alabaster vases or single-handled jugs decorated with designs. Starting from the VI century. BC, the bottles made in Rhodes became more and more original: sandaled feet, deities, animals, sirens...
- Rome.
The Romans endowed aromas with healing properties, and sellers of flavored products often came into close contact with medicine. The Romans were the first to use glass vessels (flasks for balms, ampoules for perfumes), the glass blowing technique was invented earlier, in Syria in the 1st century BC. BC.
- Islamic world.
On the contrary, the Arabs supported this art with the trade in flower spices, the invention of the alembic (in Arabic "al" inbiq means "vase") and the improvement of distillation techniques.
As for the sophistication and place that incense occupied in the life of the Arabs, in order to appreciate them, one need only look at the Alhambra gardens in Grenada. And didn't Mohammed confirm this when he said that more than anything in the world he loved "women, children and spirits"? And it was necessary to wait for the crusades to the Holy Land, so that Europe, through a few Venetian believers, attracted more by pleasure than led by faith, again became addicted to the use of perfume and soap.
- From the Middle Ages to the Classics.
Second half of the 14th century is a witness to the birth of liquid perfumes based on alcohol and essential oils, which are used under the name of aromatic waters. The first, "Water of the Queen of Hungary", based on rosemary, deserves that we stop at its origin. Legend has it that in 1380 it was presented to Queen Elisabeth of Hungary by a single monk! The Empress, at the age of 70, was very ill, and when she tasted the water (they drank these waters), she regained her health. She became so young that the King of Poland asked her to marry him. Discovery of America in the 15th century causes Venice to lose its privileged position.
The Portuguese and then the Spaniards in turn developed the spice trade (vanilla, cocoa, tobacco, cinnamon...). In the XVI century. the Dutch also show themselves in this area. Unlike their predecessors, who are only engaged in trade, they monitor the production of raw materials on the ground and improve agricultural technologies. A wide variety of aromatic waters appear, consisting of a single component (pink, lavender, orange blossom) or including flowers and spices with the addition of musk and amber. In addition to pharmaceutical properties, they allow you to mask body odors. And if the Middle Ages attached great importance to hygiene, then in the Renaissance, aromatic water contributes to the victory over plague and miasma. Perfumes are stored in bottles or ampoules blown out of glass. They also find bottles made according to Venetian technologies, made of crystal or milky white glass, reminiscent of oriental porcelain. There are a lot of metal bottles made of non-precious and precious materials. There are pomanders broken into several parts, like orange slices, allowing you to fill each part with your own aroma.
In the 17th century perfumery knows extraordinary success. You can even talk about some frenzy, inversely proportional to purity! Powders and perfumed waters cover the faces and wigs of the court of the Sun King. In 1656, a corporation of glove-perfumers appears. After some time, the passion of the aristocracy for gloves came up against the imperfection of tanning methods, which left a sickening smell on the skin. Then they decided to perfume the gloves with strong odors. The corporation of glovemakers under the auspices of Louis XIII, and then Louis XIV, seized the opportunity and seized a monopoly on the distribution of perfumery to the detriment of pharmacists, manufacturers of distillation products, and alchemists. In the 17th century, jasmine, tuberose and rose join the range of perfume products. As for the bottles, they are more and more diverse. Pomander becomes more "democratic" and remains in vogue until the end of the 18th century. There are many small bottles available in clear, tinted or frosted glass. Blackened silver knows outright success, as well as copper, silver, gold with enamel or hard stones. The Baroque period witnesses the appearance of perfume boxes and bottles in the form of exotic figurines.
- The Age of Enlightenment.
Aromatic waters continue to play an important role and compete with toilet vinegars. Vinegars are credited with incomparable disinfectant properties. The most famous of these, the "Four Thieves' Vinegar", performed a miracle in Marseille during the terrible plague of 1720. Four people, who did not hesitate to rob corpses, escaped infection thanks to this product of their own invention. Caught scammers escaped punishment by revealing to the authorities the secret of the miraculous potion, which was pasted on all the walls of the infected city, but it can be argued that the effectiveness of vinegar was that it drove away insects, the main carriers of the disease.
But the real revolution in the 18th century, which greatly advanced the history of perfumery, is associated with cologne. Composed of rosemary, neroli (orange blossom), bergamot and lemon, this aromatic, fresh-smelling water had a variety of uses: added to water during bathing (which was done more and more in the 18th century), to wine, to sugar, to water for drinking. mouthwash, washing water, injections, patches... The story of its origin is so controversial that it deserves an entire publication devoted to it! Two families enter into this merciless struggle for authorship: Femini and Farina. The strangest hypothesis is advanced by the Farina family, who claims to have created the water in question, which should be called water from Bologna! A more common version takes us to the monastery of Santa Maria Novella in Florence, where in the 14th century, believers cook acqua regina. Its success was such that in the 17th century a certain Giovanni Paulo Femini used all means of seduction to find out the recipe from the abbess of the monastery... "Eau de cologne". Later, Femini called his nephew, John Maria Farina, from Italy, who continued his uncle's business until 1766. But the story did not stop there, and soon other Farinas claimed authorship for the invention of cologne. In 1865 there were 39 shops with this sign in Cologne. A certain Jean-Marie Farina began working in Paris in 1806 as a perfumer. The quality of his products and his commercial abilities determined the fame of the perfumer. One of the largest consumers of this aromatic water was Napoleon, who dripped it on sugar.
Another version, dated 1792, takes us to the residence of the Mülchens bank in Cologne for the wedding of Wilhelm, the banker's son. One of the guests, a monk, gave the newlyweds a parchment with a recipe for one of the healing waters, acqua mirabilis.
- At the dawn of modernity.
The French Revolution did not change society's taste for perfume. They even released a perfume called "Parfum a la guillotine"! In the era of the Directory, they again dared to show their penchant for luxury products, including perfumes. Finally, the empire encouraged the widespread use of perfumery products. Napoleon and his entourage themselves became its major consumers. And Josephine, who retained from the time of her Creole youth a passion for strong odors, was called "crazy for musk". Her dressing room in Malmaison was so saturated with smells, a mixture of musk, sivet, vanilla and amber, that even seventy years later the smell was still there. She spent a fortune every year on her favorite perfumes from Luben and Ubigan. As for the Emperor, his attitude towards spirits was very contradictory. He did not like them, no matter how beautiful the smells were, and often left Josephine's boudoir, because. couldn't just breathe in the air so rich in aromas. However, not a day went by that his servant did not smear him from head to toe with cologne, the very one that produced Jean-Marie Farina. The perfumer even created a special bottle for him in the form of a roller, so that the Emperor could wear it in his boots. He bought up to 60 of these bottles a month, because. said that this fragrant water stimulated the work of his "gray matter". Smells also stimulated his sensual desires, as evidenced by his letters. Didn't he write to Josephine: "Don't wash, I'm in a hurry and in 8 days I'll be here at your feet"? With the Restoration came a quieter period in the world of fragrances. They began to appreciate soft and floral scents at the expense of animal scents. During the reign of Louis XVIII, fashionable perfumes were called "Les Larmes de I "aurore" ("Tears of Dawn") or "L" Eau des belles" ("Water of Beauties"), while in the era of Charles X they used the perfume "Dame Blanche "("White Lady") or "Troubadour" ("Troubadour"). Later, romanticism brought into fashion salts, constant companions of relaxed beauties. The Second Empire and Empress Eugenie instilled a taste for intoxicating patchouli-based perfumes, which gradually changed to more and more subtle scents, the fruits of the labors of perfumers.
The city of Grasse quickly became the largest center for the production of raw materials of plant origin, thanks in particular to the cultures of jasmine, rose and orange trees. The city has long had indirect links with perfumery through tanning workshops and through the profession of perfumer-glovers, which gradually turned into a profession of perfumer. The creation in 1724 of the Charter of perfumers of Grasse, the use of the first modern distillation apparatus finally determined the specialization of the city. Between 1770 and 1900. large factories appeared, the names of which marked the beginning of the industrial stage in perfumery: Shiris (1768), L.T. Pivert (1774), Lantier (1795), Ruhr-Bertrand-Dupon (1820), Sauziot (1840), Robertet (1850) and Payan-Bertrand (1854).
And soon Paris became a commercial partner of Grasse and a beacon city of perfumery. In addition to such names as Ubigan, Luben or L.T. Pivert, they always found the sign of Jean-Marie Farina. This stamp, sold to a certain Léonce Colla, was later passed on to two cousins, Armand Roger and Charles Galle.
The firm of Roger and Galle has played a significant role in modern perfumery thanks to its magnificent perfumes, soaps High Quality, as well as packaging and labels of rare beauty. A new name appeared, giving birth to a whole dynasty of perfumers: Guerlain. Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain, a young medical chemist, opened a shop on rue Rivoli in 1828 to sell powders, designer perfumes, including L "Eau de Cologne imperiale", which brought him the prestigious title of "supplier of Her Majesty the Empress Eugenie ". Sons Aimé and Gabrielle took over their father's business, ending the century with a magnificent creation: Jicky. But the progress in the 19th century, which determined the transition of perfumery to the stage of industrial production, is due to organic chemistry. It allowed researchers to isolate compounds whose odors were of interest and recreate them by synthesis. Perfumers could let their imagination run wild and create combinations of scents that didn't exist in nature. So was born new profession perfumer who knew all the glory in the XX century. and opened up different paths for perfumery in choosing a creative style. As for bottles, their manufacture also did not escape industrialization, but, becoming more progressive, production retained quality. Crystal is still highly valued. France and Great Britain are distinguished by extraordinary skill in this technique. An important discovery of the century was the invention in 1870 by Brillat-Savarin of the atomizer.
- Perfumery of the 20th century.
Thus, the perception of spirits gradually changed. In addition to the smell itself, elements such as the bottle, packaging and also advertising have become important. Perfume firms worked with famous glassworks Lalique, Baccarat, graphics and advertising campaigns. The collaboration between perfumer Francois Coty and Rene Lalique has become one of the most fruitful. It allowed the crystal craftsmen to improve the technology and produce, in addition to bottles for Coty, bottles for other perfume companies, such as D "0rsay, Guerlain, Lubin, Molinard, Pivert, Roger and Halle, Volnay ... Other glass enterprises also made their contribution in the production of bottles.First of all, Baccarat, who created many bottles for the company Guerlain, (Mitsouko, Shalimar, Coque d "or ...), Despre, Ubigan and Caron (Narcisse noir); then the Brosset glassworks, which entered the market in the 1920s with their magnificent flacon in simple style for Chanel No. 5 and the famous black ball for Agrede Jeanne Lanvin.
As for the spirits, they continued their evolution, henceforth avoiding transience. François Coty was the first to combine natural scents with scents created artificially in compositions. L "Origan, which he created in 1905, is the first of modern perfumes. In 1917, he released Chypre (Chypre), which later became the progenitor for a whole family of smells bearing this name and having shades of oakmoss, labdanum-labdanum , patchouli and bergamot... So-called oriental and amber scents evolved, conveying the soft, powdery, vanilla and pronounced animal scents that we find in Shalimar Guerlain. the category of perfumers turned perfumery itself upside down, it was the couturiers.In 1911, Paul Poiret, who had already gained his fame by freeing the woman from the corset, was the first to come up with the idea of adding fragrances to clothing lines.He called his perfume Les Parfums de Rosine in honor of his eldest daughter. But, if Poiret only wanted to add a ray of perfume to his clothes, then he did not complete the commercial logic of this idea. This was done by the great Gabrielle Chanel, releasing shaya in 1921 perfume with its own trademark. This trial blow was the master's blow! From now on, the legendary No. 5, created by Ernest Waugh, became the first perfume containing aldehydes, synthetic products with a very intense smell, and in addition, the power of distribution in compositions. Lanvin, in turn, used these products in Agrod. In the 1930s, new fragrances appeared, called "Cuir" (leather), with dry undertones reminiscent of leather and flowers. Floral fragrances developed along with perfumes such as Je reviens Vors (1932), Caron's Fleurs de rocaille (1933) or Jean Patou's Joy (1935). After the 2nd World War, Chypre changed its shape with the advent of Femme Rocha (1944), Ma Griffe Karven and Miss Dior, Dior (1947) L "air du temps Nina Ricci (1947) brought a new change in the family of floral scents, as well as Vent vert Balmain (1945).French perfumery reached its zenith in the 50s.After Poiret, Chanel, Vors, Lanvin and Patou, all the great names of fashion houses turned to perfume: Elsa Chiaparelli, (whose bottles depicting characters were striking in their originality), Pierre Balmain, Carvin, Jacques Fat, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Hubert de Givenchy. The most talented perfumers worked in France. Among them, Edmond Rudnitska, who brought a new small revolution in perfumery with using hedione in his beautiful creation for men L "Eau sauvage. As a result, perfumes for men began to take off. During this period, international competition intensified with the arrival of spirits from across the Atlantic. Today, perfumery is more than ever an elite industry, which, like all economic sectors, faces some problems. Noses can no longer disregard marketing results and must yield to an increasingly demanding clientele. If the perfumery of the 20th century was enriched by progress in the chemistry of smells, then the perfumery of the 21st century will have to resist fashion, lightness and introduce the same revolutionary technologies as genetics. And all this, of course, let's not forget about it, should not be devoid of creative coloring...
- Perfume classification.
CITRUS
In "citrus" you can feel the essential oils obtained by squeezing the zest of fruits such as lemon, bergamot, orange, grapefruit, etc. This family contains the first colognes used by men and women.
1. Citrus
2. Citrus floral chypre
3. Citrus spicy
4. Citrus woody
5. Citrus aromatic
FLORAL
This family, most importantly, groups perfumes whose main theme is the flower: rose, jasmine, violet, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, tuberose...
1. One flower
2. Lavender flower
3. Flower bouquet
4. Floral, greenery
5. Floral, aldehyde
6. Floral, woody
7. Floral, woody, fruity
FERN
This name has nothing to do with the smell of ferns, contains an accord of lavender, woody, oakmoss, coumarin, bergamot, etc.
1. Fern
2. Fern, amber, soft
3. Fern, floral, amber
4. Fern, spicy
5. Fern, aromatic
SHIPS
The name of this family comes from the perfume that François Coty called it when it was launched in 1917. The success of this chypre was such that it became the head of a large family that brings together perfumes based mainly on accords of oakmoss, labdanum-labdanum, patchouli, bergamot...
1. Chypre
2. Chypre, floral
3. Chypre, floral, aldehyde
4. Chypre, fruity
5. Chypre, greenery
6. Chypre, aromatic
7. Chypre, leather
WOOD
This family includes perfumes with warm undertones like sandalwood and patchouli, sometimes dry like cedar, and vetiver. In men's compositions, along with woody notes, there are lavender and citrus notes.
1. Woody
2. Woody coniferous, citrus
3. Woody, aromatic
4. Woody, spicy
5. Woody, spicy, leathery
6. Woody, amber
AMBER
Under the name "amber perfumes", which are also called "oriental perfumes", compositions with soft, powdery, vanilla, cistus-labdanum and pronounced animal notes are grouped. The soft amber subfamily is the most representative of this category.
etc.................
"And she stopped by the perfumer and took from him ten different waters: rose water mixed with musk, orange water, water from white water lilies, from flowers of willow and violets and five others. And she bought another head of sugar, a spray bottle, a bag of incense, ambergris, musk and wax candles from Alexandria, and put all this in a basket and said: "Take the basket and follow me ..."
This is an excerpt from the story of a porter and three women from Baghdad, one of the most beautiful tales " Thousand and one nights". Wonderful flower water, fragrant fragrant substances, as well as precious stones and gourmet foods, were once a sign of wealth in the countries of the East. Many centuries ago, the Arabs already knew various ways obtaining fragrant substances from plants and animal secretions. In perfume shops oriental bazaars Numerous merchants offered the richest selection of exquisite fragrant substances. They even provided each of their regular customers with a mixture of aromatic substances prepared especially for them, taking into account their individual characteristics.
AT medieval Europe perfume was not used. After ancient times, they reappeared only in the Renaissance. But already at the court of Louis XIV, ladies used them in abundance in order to drown out not nice smell emanating from the body. Washing was not accepted. We always enjoy pleasant aromas. However, tastes have changed - the intoxicating incense of the East and the sharp, obsessive odor perfumes of the Renaissance gave way to subtle fantasy (i.e., created by the imagination of perfumers) aromas. And something else has changed.
magnificent, the finest perfume today available to all women. If earlier roses had to be cultivated in vast fields, their flowers collected and processed to obtain only a few kilograms of rose oil, today chemical plants produce wonderful fragrant substances incomparably cheaper, in much larger quantities, and also often with completely new shades of smells.
Like perfumes, detergents have also become available to everyone only thanks to chemistry. In ancient Rome, as the most common detergent rotten urine was valued (To wash the body, the Romans used bran, juices of some plants and clay. For washing fabrics and wool, they also used urates - salts obtained from standing urine for a long time, which in those days was specially collected and was the subject of trade and exchange).
Toilet soap has been a luxury item for centuries. The majority of the population had to be content with liquid green soap obtained from the fat of dead animals and hemp oil.
Fast-acting detergents, toilet soaps, stain removers and many other products that we cannot do without at every turn today were first created by chemists in research laboratories. These tools greatly facilitate our household work.
The art of perfumery and cosmetics has been known to people since ancient times. Mankind did not yet know what bread was, but already widely used incense and means for anointing the skin and hair.
In the distant past, fragrant substances were intended exclusively for worship. During the cult ceremonies of many religions, fragrant resins, leaves, and roots were burned to create scents. The very word parfum - a pleasant smell, perfume - consists of two Latin words "per fumum", which means "through the sacrificial smell." Priests ancient egypt possessed the secrets of the effect of smells on the psyche of the worshipers. With the help of certain smells, a certain mood was created (sadness, grief, sacrificial impulse). This custom has survived to this day. For example, when serving in Orthodox Church incense is burned (a fragrant resin obtained by tapping the bark of the boswellia incense tree). The smell of incense in perfumery is called "sad". When inhaling incense smoke, the worshipers experience a state of sadness, sorrow, thoughts about death, about the afterlife.
Trade in fragrant substances - "aromas" - in ancient times was in the hands of the Arabs, who brought them from Ceylon, Sumatra, and India. Cinnamon, sandalwood, nutmeg, amber, frankincense, camphor, geranium, musk, civet, etc. were considered such substances. For commercial reasons, the Arabs did not disseminate knowledge about fragrant substances and their sources.
How scientific their knowledge of "aromas" was can be inferred from a text taken by Gabriel Ferran from Abdul Fazla: "Some say that ambergris grows at the bottom of the sea and that it is the waste of the digested food of various animals that live in the sea. Others say that the fish eat it and die, and that they extract ambergris from their entrails. According to some, this is the dung of a sea cow. There are those who believe that it falls, drop by drop, from the mountains of some islands. Many consider it sea gum, others, with whom I subscribe, consider it wax. It is said that large quantities of honey are found in certain mountains, so much so that it actually flows into the sea. The wax rises to the surface and the heat of the sun turns it into a solid. Since bees extract honey from flowers, ambergris also has an innate aroma. In amber they find bees from time to time ... "
To inflate the price of their goods, the ancient Greeks, not having scientific knowledge, repeated the tales and fables of Arab merchants. The first truly scientific information about "aromas" we find in the treatises of Avicenna (980 - 1037) - a scientist, philosopher and physician who lived in Central Asia and Iran.
The first fragrant infusions were made with oils. Oils have the ability to absorb odors. Flowers were placed in small portions in heated oil (olive, castor) or mutton fat, insisted and squeezed. Rose, mint, lavender, violets, lilies, cypress wood, orange and tangerine zest, etc. served as raw materials for creating fragrant oils. Fragrances were constantly used to perfume clothes, body, and hair.
In ancient Rome, there was a complex ritual of anointing the body with aromatic substances: hands - mint, chin and chest - fragrant palm oil, hair and eyebrows - marjoram, neck and legs - colored essence. The fact that perfumery was valued in those days is evidenced, for example, by the following fact: the cost of a small bottle of an aromatic mixture of oils reached several sesterces (Roman silver coins). However, even in those days there were opponents overuse perfumery. Thus, Cicero wrote in one of his letters: Best flavor women - no smell from her clothes, from her body.
A real revolution in perfume business occurred when they learned how to dissolve aromatic substances in alcohol. Alcohol was first obtained in the 11th century. in Italy. The custom of perfumed clothes was brought to Europe from the East by the crusaders. During the Renaissance in Italy and France, the production of perfumes begins. The climate of these countries made it possible to grow many fragrant substances. AT various cities France, especially in Paris, shops appeared, the owners of which were engaged in the production and sale of perfumes.
The basis of the perfume is a mixture of fragrant substances. In some types of perfumes, aromatic substances accounted for half of the total volume. In the course were strong, sharp, bright aromas. Perfume is replaced by cologne - fragrant water, which contains fewer fragrant substances, the smell is lighter, fresher, less intrusive.
Fragrant water based on citrus oils with the smell of freshness was created in Spain by the monks of the Dominican order.
There is a legend that one of the monks took out a parchment with a recipe for fragrant water in a staff from the monastery and sold it. The recipe came to the son of the banker Mulgens from Cologne. After a short experiment, Mülgens the Younger released the first batch of fragrant water. Napoleon's soldiers bought and brought it to France. Cologne fragrant water began to come into fashion, but already under the name "O de Colonne", which means "water from Cologne".
"Cosmetics" (from the Greek. kosmetike - the art of decorating) - the doctrine of the means and methods for improving a person's appearance. Cosmetics appeared before perfumery.
The first cosmetic means of changing the appearance were made in order to frighten the enemy, deceive the gods, or, conversely, become like a revered deity. For these purposes, a tattoo was used. The pattern was applied with a brush on the face, chest, back, buttocks, legs and arms, and then charcoal was rubbed on these parts of the body. Gradually, the custom of painting the face passes to the civilized peoples. Various vessels were found in Egyptian tombs for storing white, rouge, rubbing (chalk, lime, charcoal, ocher). In Egypt, found the first reference book on cosmetics, belonging to Queen Cleopatra. Recipes for making powder, blush, whitewash, lip paint, eyebrow pencils from this reference book were later repeatedly cited in the works of ancient physicians.
The word "cosmetics" acquired its true meaning - the art of beauty - in Greece. In the Greek gymnasiums, where many beautiful arts were learned, special teachers - cosmetologists taught how, with the help of various massages, baths, exercises to improve the body. The famous physicians Hippocrates and Galen made their contribution to cosmetics, who gave, in addition to various recipes See also recommendations for cosmetic surgery.
In ancient Rome, tools were invented not only for face painting, but also for smoothing wrinkles, improving complexion. Poppea Sabina, the wife of Emperor Nero, went down in history as a specialist in this field. The recipe for the mask that bears her name is still in use today: strawberries, milk, lupine flour.
In the royal courts of Europe, the use of makeup was mandatory. The annals mention that when Princess Maria Teresa of Spain arrived in France as the bride of the heir to the throne without makeup, this caused discontent among the courtiers.
During the period of French absolutism, no hygiene whatsoever was recognized. Bathing was considered unhealthy, only hands were washed daily and occasionally the face. To combat annoying insects, they came up with a way to wear "flea fur" on the chest - squirrel or mink, which attracted insects. With such "cleanliness" the use of strong perfumes and an abundance of cosmetics was simply necessary. In baroque times, everyone who belonged to high society - from children to the elderly, wore powdered wigs and essential accessory was a life saver Ivory, ending with a miniature handle - "headset". With its help, the most elegant lady or gentleman could calm the annoying itch caused by dirt or insect bites during a gallant conversation.
The 19th century brought with it the cult of a clean body. The most important requirement was constant hygiene.
In Russia, they used such cosmetics as soot, coal, chalk, and beets. Foreigners who visited the Muscovite state noted that Russian women, beautiful by nature, strongly painted their cheeks, whitened their faces, blackened their eyebrows. European fashion for costumes, hairstyles, cosmetics came to Russia in the era of Peter I. In the future, Russian noblewomen no longer lag behind the European fair sex.
Modern cosmetics divided into medical and decorative. Medical cosmetics uses not only cosmetics to eliminate external defects, but also physiotherapeutic, surgical and other methods. With the help of decorative cosmetics, imperfections are masked or certain facial features are emphasized. Cosmetics for skin care, hair, teeth, nails include creams, lotions, powder, toothpaste, as well as color cosmetics: mascara, lipstick, eye shadow, blush and DR.
industrial production perfumery and cosmetic products in Russia began in the XIX century. In 1843, the Frenchman Alphonse Rallet founded the factory "Partnership Rallet" in Moscow (now the factory "Rassvet"). In 1860, a technological laboratory was created in St. Petersburg (now a factory " Northern lights"). In 1899, in Georgia, which has favorable climatic conditions for growing ethereal roses, the first industrial batch of rose oil was obtained; a total of 320 kg was produced.
In 1864, a perfumery and cosmetic establishment "Partnership Brocard" was opened in Moscow (in our time, worldwide well-known firm "new dawn"). In addition to it, there were half a dozen small factories.
There was no Russian school of perfumers. The main specialists at the enterprises were foreigners, therefore, after the nationalization of perfumery and cosmetic factories, the problem of personnel training became the main problem.
In recent years, perfumery and cosmetics have become major industries. The head organization for the production of perfumes and cosmetics is the All-Union Production Association (VPO) Soyuzparfyumerprom.
On the plantations of agro-industrial complexes are grown in in large numbers essential oil plants, in particular coriander, rose, geranium, mint, lavender, etc. The VPO system produces synthetic aromatic substances obtained by chemical synthesis. Synthesized raw materials successfully replace natural ones, they are cheaper than natural ones. Fur-breeding state farms and collective farms supply perfumers with the substances necessary for the production of perfumes - musk and civet.
The modern range of perfumes, colognes, perfume sets, produced by the perfume industry, has about a thousand items. The cosmetic industry produces more than 500 cosmetic and hygiene products. They are exported to dozens of countries around the world. The release of cosmetic products is controlled by the sanitary service of the USSR Ministry of Health. Increasingly used in cosmetics biologically active substances, seafood, pharmacological preparations. Therefore, it can be argued that physicians, chemists, fur breeders, breeders, plant growers, foresters and oceanologists take part in the creation of perfumery and cosmetics.
PERFUMING RETORT
Fragrances are found in plants usually in the form of small droplets in special cells. They are found not only in flowers, but also in leaves, in the peel of fruits, and sometimes even in wood.
The content of essential oils in those parts of plants that are used to obtain them ranges from 0.1% to 10%. The fact that they are called oils should not mislead us. Essential oils have nothing to do with regular oils. vegetable oils: flaxseed, sunflower, corn, that is, with liquid fats. They are more or less complex mixtures of fragrant organic substances of various types.
Among them, esters, aldehydes and alcohols of saturated, unsaturated and aromatic series are especially common.
Terpenes and their derivatives are very important components of essential oils.
Terpinen- cyclic hydrocarbon. He meets in small amounts in many essential oils. Limonene - important component lemon peel oils. Pinen- the main component of gum turpentine. It serves as the starting compound for the production of synthetic fragrances.
Essential oils are usually very difficult to dissolve in water, but readily soluble in alcohol.
Therefore, alcohol is used in large quantities in the perfume industry as a solvent. Essential oils can be obtained, for example, by extracting them from plant parts with alcohol or other solvents.
The most valuable fragrant substances of flowers are obtained by placing alternately layers of solid animal fat and plant parts in a closed chamber on a wire mesh.
After a while, the flowers are replaced with new ones so that the fat is saturated with essential oil. With this method (in France it is called "enfleurage"), a fat is obtained containing essential oils dissolved in it, and this concentrate of aromatic substances is delivered to perfume factories (Then the essential oils are extracted from the fat with alcohol. This method is used, for example, to extract essential oils from jasmine and tuberose).
By themselves, essential oils are often volatile only when elevated temperatures, and their boiling is accompanied by decomposition. If, however, water vapor is passed through a mass consisting of plants or their parts, then the oils are removed along with it and then collected in the distillate in the form of droplets that have low density and therefore float on the surface of the water.
Questions to consolidate the material
1. What do the terms "cosmetics" and "perfumes" mean?
2. Which products are considered cosmetic and which are perfume?
3. Briefly describe the history of the development of the perfumery and cosmetics industry in Russia.
4. What factors influence the increase and expansion of the range of perfumery and cosmetic products?
5. Tell us about the prospects for the development of the perfumery and cosmetics industry.
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Throughout the history of mankind, perfumery has played a huge role in the life of a person who, since ancient times, has striven to look better, smell better and feel better - in a word, to be the best. Most of us don't give a second thought to how long ago perfume came into being - we just know that we want to use our favorite scent to feel attractive and irresistible. However, if you even superficially study the history of perfumery, you can see that this was by no means the original goal of the compilers of aromatic compositions.
The first perfumes - incense
The "invention" of perfume is attributed to the ancient Egyptians. The first perfumes were actually incense, fragrant substances that were burned during religious rites. For this purpose, aromatic substances were used by the ancient Greeks and the ancient Romans. Moreover, the word "perfume" comes from the Latin "per fumum", which means "through the smoke." It was by burning aromatic woods and resins that our ancestors obtained incense - the first perfumes that were used for religious ceremonies and rituals. There were special vessels in the temples, where the believers had to drain the sacrificial oils. Images and sculptures of the gods were smeared with fragrant oils almost daily. Frankincense was considered the most suitable sacrificial gift. For cult incense, cedar resin, frankincense and myrrh were used. Small balls or lozenges of aromatic substances were placed in special tubes (smokers).
The evolution of perfumery occurs simultaneously with the emergence and improvement of primitive decorative cosmetics. 
. But neither face paint nor incense was originally intended to attract the opposite sex; their purpose was to bring the favor of the gods. The Egyptians were very religious. That's why they took the art of perfume making so seriously - they believed that the gods would favor them if they smelled good if they surrounded themselves. pleasant smells. Moreover, the Egyptians, even after death, managed to exude not a cadaverous stench, but a pleasant aroma. The ancient Egyptians believed in the transmigration of souls. According to them, after the human soul leaves the body, it inhabits an animal and for three thousand years incarnates in the form of all kinds of creatures, until it finally takes on a human form again. This belief explains excessive care with which the Egyptians embalmed their dead, so that the soul, after a long journey, could find its former shell and return to it. During embalming, the body cavity cleared of the insides was filled with crushed myrrh, cassia and other aromatic substances, except for incense. Several times a year, the mummies were taken out and funeral rites were performed over them with great honors. These rituals included smoking incense, ritual libations. Aromatic oils were poured over the mummy's head.
Incense was prepared in temple workshops by priests according to standard recipes, the texts of which were carved on stone walls. The volume and weight ratios of the components, the duration of the procedures, yields and losses were indicated. Thus, the ancient Egyptian priests can be called the first professional perfumers.
The use of perfume becomes individual
For many years, incense and primitive perfumes were used only by priests who conducted religious rites, and rare rich people. Over time, those who were rich and powerful enough to afford to buy fragrances began to use them not only for religious ceremonies, but also for more mundane purposes. To smell good, aromatic wood and aromatic resins were soaked in water and oil, and then the whole body was smeared with this liquid. When this practice became generally accepted, the priests were forced to give up their "monopoly" on precious fragrances. Continuing to be present in all religious ceremonies, aromatic substances are increasingly used as hygiene products. 
and luxury items. The next logical step was to use aromatic oils in the baths. The luxurious baths of the ancient Greeks and Romans owe their appearance to the clean Egyptians. The aromatic oils protected their skin from dryness in hot climates. This is how the first creams and ointments for primitive moisturizers appeared.
Soon, natural plant resins and balms were supplemented with scented oils, which athletes used before competitions, and beautiful Athenians - for seduction and pleasure. A whole ritual of sequential application of equal aromatic substances was carried out at marriage. The Greeks were the first in history to add spices and spices to the composition of perfumes (now not a single oriental fragrance can do without them), as well as fragrant flower oils; most often used were roses, lilies or violets, which were held in high esteem by the Greeks.
In ancient Greece, the first official perfumers appeared, who made fragrant compositions from oils of saffron, iris, sage, lily, anise, cinnamon. It is said that the Greeks were the first to create liquid perfumes, although they differed significantly from the modern counterpart. For the preparation of perfumes, the Greeks used a mixture of aromatic powders and oils (particularly olive and almond) - and no alcohol.
After Ancient Greece and the East, spirits penetrate into Ancient Rome. The ancient Romans, who carefully monitored hygiene, lubricated the body several times a day, not only the body, but also the hair. In the Roman baths (terms) one could find vessels with aromatic oils for every taste, of all shapes and sizes. The Romans bathed at least three times a day, so the homes of wealthy Romans always had stocks of aromatic oils and other fragrant substances. The Romans also used perfumes to scent rooms, especially during feasts, where a lot of people gathered. For this, spirits were applied to the wings of pigeons and the birds were released into the room. During the flight, the perfume was sprayed and flavored the air. In addition, the heads of guests at feasts were refreshed by slaves, spraying perfume on them. When the wife of Nero Pompey died, he ordered that more incense be burned in her honor than Arabia could produce in ten years.
The Romans, like the Greeks, contributed to the improvement of the technique of making perfumes. They began to use the technique of maceration (immersion of aromatic substances in oils) and pomace under pressure. Fragrant raw materials are brought here from Egypt, India, Africa and Arabia. In many aromatic substances, the Romans were the first to discover healing properties.
The love of fragrances reached its peak at a time when the empire was in decline. Even the thresholds of houses, furniture and military equipment, as well as dogs and horses, began to be poured with perfume.
A beautiful vessel for exquisite fragrance
The Egyptians treated incense with great respect, and believed that they could only be stored in the most beautiful and expensive vessels. The Egyptians made every effort to create especially beautiful vessels for aromatic resins and oils. To do this, they used such exotic materials as alabaster, ebony and even porcelain. But the glass bottle for perfume familiar to us appeared only in ancient Rome. It replaced the clay vessels used by the Greeks.
Spirits spread all over the world
With the advent and development of the Christian religion, the widespread use of aromatic substances somewhat fades, both in everyday life (spirits began to be associated with frivolity), and in religious rites. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the use of perfumes declined; in Europe, perfumery art practically disappears, but in the Arab East it reaches its greatest prosperity. Among the Arabs, aromatic substances were valued as highly as precious stones. The Arabs played a huge role in the development of perfume art. The Arab physician and chemist Avicenna developed the process of oil distillation (extraction of oil from flowers). Avicenna tested his invention on roses. This is how rose oil was born. Before Avicenna, liquid perfumes were made from a mixture of oil and crushed stems or flower petals, so the perfume had a very strong, rich aroma. Thanks to the process developed by Avicenna, the process of preparing perfumes was greatly simplified, and " pink water quickly became very popular.
In the 12th century, through Venice, the crusaders again imported into Europe the art polished in the East - to decorate and cleanse your body with aromatic substances and smells. As this art becomes more and more widespread in medieval Europe, more and more aromatic compounds and, as a result, new aromas appear. The use of perfume has become a status symbol, a sign of high position in society. Only those with a lot of money could afford expensive fragrances. Wealthy Europeans ordered aromatic resins from China. Gradually, the use of perfume became a tradition. It was in the Middle Ages that Europeans finally approached cleanliness and hygiene. Ablutions, baths, steam rooms came into fashion. Fragrant rosaries, scented fur collars, pillows with rose petals and "fragrant apples", which were worn on chains or bracelets. At the same time, aromatic products were used in medicine. In the fight against plague, fumigation with rosemary or juniper berries was used.
The most famous in medieval Europe was the legendary perfume "eau de Hongrie", created in 1370 on the basis of orange blossom, rose, mint, lemon balm, lemon and rosemary. At this time, "neroli essence" appears, an extract from the flowers of the orange tree, which is still used today. Another important invention of Europeans is the fragrance “a la frangipane”, named after the Italian perfumer Frangipani, who used bitter almonds in the manufacture of perfumes, which had previously been used only in cooking.
French perfume - this phrase caresses the ears of all women on the planet. This product is equated with works of art, passionately desired, cherished, "put on" in the light and enjoy it alone. Some even animate the contents of graceful vials, calling the companion of the goddess or the servant of the witch. Spirits excite minds and sharpen feelings, they are ready to pay a lot of money for them, with their help they achieve location. And the path of development of European perfumery was by no means strewn with rose petals. Rather, a different substance.
Who and when invented perfume
Perfume was not invented by the French. Body and room incense has been used since the ancient world. The Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans skillfully mastered the art of creating fragrances. Also mixtures of resins and essential oils were used in Ancient China and on the Arabian Peninsula. Then the smell was not an end in itself, but rather an additional nice bonus.Oil mixtures were intended for treatment, improving well-being, skin care. Aromas used to stimulate sexual attraction, seduction, contributed to the conception of children. In addition, incense was widely used in the religious sphere. With the help of smell, the ancient priests controlled the spiritual state of temple visitors, tuned in to asceticism.
To create aromatic products, only vegetable raw materials were used - spices (roots and seeds), oils, flower petals, resins of coniferous trees. The fragrance was part of a cult healthy body and spirit.
Why does the French dominate the fragrance industry?
Hygiene and exquisite aromas were alien to medieval Europeans. Perfume, distillation technology, and with it, floral waters and essential oils made their way to the Western world when the Crusaders returned from their campaigns. Now the smell was an end in itself, it had only one task - to kill the stench exuded by dirty bodies and human waste that filled medieval cities. Hygiene procedures were not yet practiced there, the sewerage system did not work.European perfumers began to include ingredients of animal origin - musk and amber - in compositions. These components significantly increased the durability of the perfume. They were also thought to enhance sex appeal odor carrier. This change was a turning point, animal ingredients gave new round development of the art of creating fragrances. Substances extracted from the stomachs of sperm whales and the gonads of deer are widely used in modern niche perfumery.
There were few requirements for the spirits of those times - stamina and sharpness. It was such a perfume that could kill the unpleasant smells of the body and the space of cramped streets.
The reason that it was France that became the leader in the art of perfumery is its impartiality and lack of continuity. Such factors hinder the development of innovative ideas. Rival Italy still had a legacy that came from the ancient Romans. And this circumstance fettered the creative impulses and audacity of Italian perfumers.
Leather note, or how perfumery resisted the plague
Another way to add an elegant touch to the image is to wear leather gloves, which were subjected to generous aromatization. This served two purposes - to hide unwashed hands, and to transform the smell of poorly treated leather. This practice gained immense popularity, noble ladies acquired dozens or even hundreds of pairs of fragrant gloves. They were treated with compositions with the presence of sandalwood, rose, jasmine - to choose from or in various combinations. Ambergris or musk served as an obligatory ingredient, thanks to which the fragrance was preserved for a long time.If before the smell of calfskin was undesirable, then in the modern fashion industry a note is added to the composition intentionally. Perfume with such a component acquires intimacy, provocative sound, animal magnetism. These are the traditions of French perfume art.
The Russian chemist K. Verigin, author of the book Fragrant: A Perfumer's Memoir, claims that among fragrance masters, the percentage of deaths from the plague was much lower than among the rest of the population. This is due to the constant stay among the smells of herbs and essential oils, vinegars. Many of these products repelled insects, including fleas, the most sinister vectors of infection.
There is a story about Marseille mad robbers who traded in looting. They searched for valuables and money on the corpses of those who died from the plague. Their invulnerability to a formidable infection lies in the regular use of toilet vinegar. own production. Such a tool was intended for disinfection and aromatization. It is not able to kill pathogenic microbes, but it prevented insect bites, which was the main preventive measure along with the quarantine.
The Transformation of Ethics in Fragrances from the Enlightenment to the Present Day
In the 18th century, use perfumery products men start en masse. Fragrant compositions are applied to interior items, accessories, linen. It is considered prestigious to have a personal perfumer who develops a personal fragrance. unique flavor for the customer.
During this period, becoming popular fresh lungs ingredients such as rosemary, bergamot, lemon. Hygiene procedures are no longer replaced by aromatization, but are combined with it. Perfume products are added to baths, mouthwashes and clothes.
At the beginning of the 19th century, a new requirement for the use of fragrances appeared - moderation. The application of perfume on a scarf, gloves and a fan is welcome, the contact of perfume with the body is considered undesirable.
At the end of the 19th century, perfumes acquire gender specificity - women's fragrances consist mainly of fruit and flower components, while men's fragrances contain notes of pine needles, wood, and a lot of citrus fruits.
In the 20th century, fragrances began to be produced for certain weather or time of day. Winter perfumes are characterized by a high content of spicy warm notes, a high concentration of resins. Summer compositions include notes such as cucumber, watermelon, as well as synthetic aldehyde components, reminiscent of a sea breeze or fresh mountain air. Gender specificity exists, but its severity dissolves into modern society where people themselves like to decide who to be.
