Modern methods of perm. All types of perm for hair. Modern perm hair - photo

15.04.2019

It makes it easier to lay on long time... It is believed that chemistry for long hair is a risky undertaking, because it hopelessly spoils luxurious strands that have been grown for more than one year with great love. But after all, it is not at all necessary to do curls along the entire length. You can always experiment with your appearance without much risk. From the article you will learn about the most suitable ways winding a long head of hair, as well as all the nuances of perm in the salon and at home.

What

Times change, but the essence of chemistry remains the same. It enables girls with straight hair to feel the way they dream: beauties with beautiful curls.

Throughout the history of the procedure, its method has remained practically unchanged. The strands are wound on curlers and treated with the composition, changing the structure of the hair shafts. During this time, only the quality of chemical. compositions have undergone significant modifications.

Twist only the ends. Ideally, if you do not want to spoil the chemical. the drug the entire length of the curls.

To resort to a "baby" perm. The procedure is similar to the highlighting process. A hat with many holes is put on the head through which individual strands are pulled. Thanks to this, the composition does not affect the skin.

A large perm looks spectacular on long hair. Curls can be wound in any way.
Price in the salon and for home use
Depending on the cost, quality of the composition and length of the hair, the work of a professional hairdresser will cost approximately 6,000-8,000 rubles. For very long strands - even more expensive.
It is much cheaper to buy a product for home use. The price range is wide: from 200 to 1600 rubles. This is how much one drug costs, and 2 of them are required (composition and fixative to consolidate the result).
A set of both liquids can be purchased. Wholesale is usually more profitable. Kits from different manufacturers are sold at prices ranging from 300 to 1200 rubles. Also, when planning expenses, consider the cost of related tools and accessories that you will have to buy.
If the hair is quite long, a double dose of medication may be needed. The approximate dose for curling long curls is from 150 milliliters.
Contraindications
Exacerbation of chronic diseases, the presence of infections with fever.
Correction of the state of health with antibiotics and hormonal drugs.
Menstruation, pregnancy, lactation.
Stress, depression.
Poor condition of the hair: the hair breaks, weakened, falls out strongly.
Allergy to components of chemical compounds. You need to find out before starting the curling, if necessary, change the drug.
The presence of wounds, abrasions, cuts, acne, dandruff on the head.
Hair coloring less than 2-3 weeks before chemistry, including henna or basma.

Attention! Do not perm on an empty stomach or in a cold room. A qualitative result can suffer from unfavorable factors.

Features of curling for long hair
Both body waves and small spiral curls look very beautiful on long strands. True, the first ones unwind faster, so on long hair curls from the roots are not always possible. Such curls can only be done by an experienced hairdresser.
He will use curlers of different diameters and skillfully smooth out the transitions between curls of different sizes, make a neat chemistry with or without bangs. In addition, aggressive formulations are often used for this purpose. They spoil the curls a lot, but they provide a long-lasting effect.
Partial perm for long hair from the middle of the strands or chemistry at the ends is a good solution for the first experiment. The appearance will change, but not dramatically. If you don’t like the result or if the hair deteriorates badly, you can cut the ends.
When choosing a curling method and determining the size of the curls, you need to take into account the following nuances:
Short, long-haired girls are unlikely to be too lush, voluminous hairstyle with small curls. This styling looks much better on tall beauties.
Owners of a square or rectangular can make large horizontal curls.
To get the natural effect of light waves, you should use curlers of various diameters, and keep the preparation on the curls for only 10-15 minutes. For tight curls, you will have to catch the maximum time recommended by the manufacturer, but not longer.

Before curling, do a cascade or slightly graduate long hair. This will add opulence to your hairstyle. The growing strands will not spoil general form styling.
Procedure
First of all, test the skin and strands with chemical reagents. Even if you have selected the preparations taking into account the type and structure of the hair, allergic reaction on components is not excluded. For this:
apply a little of the composition to the area behind the ear, soak for 10-15 minutes;
in the absence of itching, swelling, rash or other manifestations, moisten a thin strand on the back of the head with a small amount of the solution;
if after 2-3 minutes the hairs become brittle, gray or start to break, buy new drug, if not, give up the curling altogether.

If the curl, like the skin, has passed the test, proceed with the procedure for perming long hair:
Attention! If the hair goes down below the shoulders, special hair curlers-wellaformers are suitable. These are latex pouches that form a curl by tightening the strand. But the roots will remain straight.

Having covered the whole head, take care of protecting the skin, eyes and clothing from the effects of chemicals:
After that, continue the curling process:
Pour the chemical into a plastic, ceramic, or glass bowl. Do not use a metal container. The same applies to other devices: combs, hairpins.
Spread the solution over the curled curls with an applicator or sponge. It is more convenient to start at the back of the head, then move to the top and sides.
When finished, put on a special insulating cap or plastic cap, and then a terry towel.
After 15 minutes, check that the curls are ready. To do this, roll 4 curlers with your gloved hands: on the back of the head, on the forehead, on the sides. If the curls do not turn out the way you want, spin the rollers again, wrap your head. Check the condition of the curls without exceeding the maximum holding time of the preparation on the head.
After achieving the desired result, rinse the solution warm water without removing the curlers.
Blot your head slightly with a towel.
Apply half of the total amount of fixative. If it is not foamy, dampen hair straight from the bottle. Whisk the foam in a bowl. To do this, you will need a second set of non-metallic containers and a sponge (applicator). For the treatment of curls, it is the foam that is needed.
Remove the rollers after 7-10 minutes.
Gently dab the other half of the fixer over your curls.
After 5 minutes, wash it off with running water.
Rinse your head with a vinegar solution. On long curls you need 4 liters of warm water and 130 milliliters of essence.
Remember the curls a little with your fingers and pat dry with a towel.
Treat your head with a caring balm.

How long does the effect last
Unfortunately, on long hair - the least, because the curls unwind faster under their own weight. Also, the result depends on the type and structure of the hair, the preparation used and the size of the curls. To prolong the effect, owners of long strands can choose an acid perm, which will last from 3-4 months to six months.
The use of an alkaline composition on thick and heavy hair is not so effective. In this case, beautiful curls remain for 1.5–3 months. One more nuance: large curls on long hair will unwind faster than small hair.
Advice. Proper care will help prolong the effect, including the use of shampoos, balms, styling products intended for curly hair.

Effects and hair care
Fine or coarse chemistry for long hair is your personal choice, because regardless of the size and shape of the curls, the hair will still be harmed by chemicals. Any such intervention in the structure of the hair shafts is fraught with dryness, fragility of the strands, and their increased loss. Hair becomes less shiny, weakened. The tips are especially noticeable, so it is better to cut them off immediately after the procedure.
The harm from chemistry will be more or less pronounced - it depends on the quality of the composition and the duration of its exposure. Take it responsibly. Plus, you can help your hair overcome chemical stress as quickly as possible.
It's easy to do if you master it. the main rules for caring for curls after chem. curling:
Do not wash your hair for the first 3-4 days after the procedure.
Choose shampoos, conditioners, conditioners for curly hair.
Make sure that curl products contain collagen, silk proteins, panthenol.
Treat the ends with serums and sprays that prevent splitting.
Rinse the curls with broths of nettle, chamomile, or hops.
Dry your head often naturally, blotting it with a towel beforehand.
Do not go to bed with wet strands.
When using a hair dryer, use a diffuser attachment and cold air blower.
Comb extremely dry curls with sparse-toothed combs.
Do not braid your hair too tightly, and let it loose more often.
Include fish or fish oil capsules in your diet. This will help strengthen the hair.
After perming your hair, spend less time in the sun, protect your head with a hat or kerchief. Avoid tanning beds.
Do not model your hair with metal combs and hairpins.
Apply a nourishing moisturizing mask at least once a week. It can be a finished product or a do-it-yourself composition.
Use essential oils. Burdock, almond, peach are especially useful after perm. Add esters to curl care products.

You can find more tips on hair care after a perm on our website.
Advice. An alternative to perming long hair is carving ( long-term styling waves with an effect of up to 4 weeks) or biowave, during which gentle nutritional formulations are used.

Owners of straight strands often complain that it is very difficult to make a hairstyle out of them. Indeed, even with an abundance of varnish, curls curled on regular curlers or curling iron straighten too quickly. Of course, perming hair for large curls helps to cope with the problem, but this method has its pitfalls. Today we will tell you about the types of such styling, as well as its pros and cons. So let's go.

How is perm hair done? Large curls?

Before deciding on a radical transformation, you should know the principle of the perm. The effect on the hair structure during such a procedure occurs twice. At first, under the influence of special reagents, the scales lose their elasticity and open up. Then they close again, and, since the curls are curled in curlers, thanks to the chemicals that have fixing properties, they retain their shape.

The exposure time to the strands depends on the following factors:

type of chemicals;
the desired elasticity of the curls;
hair structure, thickness and condition.

Before starting the procedure, the master conducts a small test for the individual tolerance of chemical reagents. A drop of such a substance is applied to the wrist and wait about 15 minutes. If no reaction has occurred, proceed directly to the curling process:

hair is not divided into small strands, each of which is alternately processed with the selected composition and twisted on bobbins;
after a certain time, the head is washed without removing the bobbins;
a fixative is applied to them;
wait a few minutes;
the fixative is washed off with warm water.

Advice!Karl Nessler, a German hairdresser, not only came up with the idea of a permanent, that is, a perm, but also false eyelashes and eyebrows. His apparatus, capable of permanently transforming straight strands into tight curls, he demonstrated to the public back in 1908.

Perm types

Depending on the composition used, such a perm is divided into:

acidic: the longest in time, but also the most aggressive, it dries out the strands too much; more suitable for coarse and thick hair;

alkaline: most common; the curls are quite tight, the effect on thin and light hair lasts up to 3 months, hard strands are straightened in a month;

neutral: applies even to weakened and damaged strands; keeps well even on thick hair up to 3-4 months;
silk: the proteins contained in the solution gently affect the structure, the curls straighten after a couple of months;
biowave: amino acid preparations used in this method are as similar as possible to the structure of the hair; the curls are not too tight and straighten only after 1-3 months;

Japanese based on a lipid-protein complex; has a healing effect, it is allowed to be performed simultaneously with highlighting or staining, lasts up to 5 months.

Advice! The final result depends not only on the composition used, but also general condition organism. The shape and appearance of curls can be influenced not only by hormonal changes, but also, for example, severe nervous stress.

Curl shape

If the durability of styling directly depends on the chemical composition of the drugs used, then the shape and size of the curls is determined by the type of bobbins - a special type of curler on which the hair is wound during curling. When choosing their type, an experienced master always focuses on the structure of the strands, the type of hairstyle and the type of face:

perm on pigtails: used only for curls of medium length or very long; they are first braided in tight braids, and only then they are wound on special bobbins;

on hairpins: metal devices in the form of a bent thin rod;
with twisting: for curls different sizes several types of bobbins are used;
vertical: gives the effect of wet hair; do only for long curls, which are very tough;

children's: do not worry, children's hair is not permed, this name is due only to the fact that this method is the most gentle; to protect the roots from the effects of reagents, a rubber cap is put on the head;
Twins: two types of curlers are used in the work, horizontal and vertical;
basal: only the roots and the area adjacent to them are processed; the method is used to curl overgrown roots or create volume only in this area;

American: tight curls are obtained using spiral curlers;
bubble: the strands are processed with a special apparatus with a compressor, which whips the chemical reagent until bubbles saturated with oxygen.

Bobbin size

Depending on the size, such curlers are divided into:

small;
large;
especially large.

Perming hair (see photo) for large curls has an undeniable advantage, as it looks as natural as possible. Medium-sized or even very small bobbins are best used on thick and dense strands - after all, large ones quickly straighten on them. Small vertical curls are most often used to create the effect of wet hair.

horizontal;
vertical (spiral bobbins are used);
round;
double.

Advice! To reduce the negative effect on the strands of chemicals, proteins and amino acids are introduced into them. However, their excess leads to a decrease in the resistance of the curling.

Pros and cons of curling

Of course, "chemistry" has many advantages:

hair after it becomes more obedient and easily fits into any hairstyle;
she looks much more voluminous, and her hair is more luxuriant;
the use of modern formulations causes them minimal harm, therefore, with proper care, the strands look well-groomed.

Unfortunately, she has no less disadvantages:

after this procedure, the hair is dry, therefore, it requires careful care; moreover, any, even the most gentle perm has a negative effect on the structure of the strands; if an inexperienced master incorrectly determines the concentration of the solution or overexposes the composition on the hair, they will turn into lifeless tow;
suffers from a perm and scalp, at first dandruff may even appear;
hairstyle without styling does not look very presentable;
getting rid of boring curls will not be so easy;
after processing the strands with chemical compounds, the curls do not exude at first too much pleasant aroma; it disappears only after 1-2 weeks.

Long curls

Perm for large curls on long hair looks most impressive: at the roots, the curls straighten a little under the weight of the weight, and at the ends they twist into tight rings. Their quantity can be adjusted by selecting the chemical composition of the preparation and the type of bobbins. If desired, the strands can be given additional splendor with the help of a cascading haircut or a small graduation.

Despite the fact that perm is not considered a difficult procedure, it is still better to contact experienced master... Indeed, in the presence of creases and noticeable transitions, the hairstyle will look sloppy.

Advice! Thick and heavy hair amenable to processing much worse. When curling them, it is advisable to use the strongest acidic solutions.

Curling for medium hair

Ladder, bob or bob haircuts are perfectly combined with mischievous curls. Depending on the thickness of the hair and the desired result, you can choose both traditional acid or alkaline curls, as well as more gentle biochemistry.

The work uses large or small bobbins, hairpins or spirals. After perming hair middle length for large curls, the hair is less tangled and easy to style. To create small curls on the bangs, use a solution of a lower concentration.

Advice!Biowave - perfect option for hair prone to oily content, as it is able to regulate work sebaceous glands... But you should not expose dry hair to the influence of even gentle compounds - after all, such reagents make them even more porous, and they begin to get very confused.

Curling for short hair

Just as when creating hairstyles for long or medium strands, when curling for short hair, the shape and volume of the waves is selected depending on the type of haircut and the thickness of the strands. It is better to arrange a bob or square with not too tight curls of a small diameter or curls in the form of a spiral.

With a round, rectangular or square face, strands sticking out to the side will make it even wider, so it is better to prefer perm for short hair with the largest curls on vertical bobbins. They also use options in which their size is combined. With oval classical form on the face, the size and shape of the bobbins can be any.

Advice! It is not recommended to do a perm during menstruation - after all, it will not hold on. Moreover, due to the hormonal changes taking place in the body these days, the reaction will be unpredictable.

Curling at home

If you decide to master this procedure on your own, try to use the most gentle drugs. After all, if you pick up an acidic or alkaline composition that is too concentrated, which is absolutely not suitable for your type of strands, then you will simply burn them. So, we will describe the process of perm in stages:

since any reagents are quite aggressive, so that once again do not injure the hair, they should not be dyed for at least 20 days; it is also advisable to heal the strands in advance;
drugs are applied only to dirty hair- they should not be washed for 2-3 days;
there should not be even the smallest wounds and injuries on the head;
for hair of medium thickness, you will need 60–80 curlers;

you can see the strands on the back of your head if you install two large mirrors one opposite the other;
divide your hair with partings into separate strands; those that are not yet participating in the work, secure with clamps;
the reagent is applied with a small brush or foam sponge as quickly as possible;
so that the curls look natural Special attention give the tips - they should be oiled as much as possible and twisted very tightly, closer to the roots, you need to wind them on the bobbins a little weaker;
after the time specified in the instructions, wash the head without removing the bobbins;
then a fixative is applied to them;
after a few minutes (this time is also indicated by the manufacturer), the head is finally washed and dried without using a hair dryer;
to neutralize the action of drugs, it is better to rinse it with water with the addition of a couple of tablespoons of lemon juice or vinegar of low concentration.

Advice!To keep the curls longer, you should not wash your hair for the first two days. Do not rub them and twist them hard when drying, as well as make tight braids and tails.

You can learn more about the most gentle method of biochemical perm and see firsthand how this procedure is carried out by watching the video:

Gone are the days when perm was considered a hairstyle for grandmothers and housewives. Today it is fashionable and less harmful to hair than it was 30 years ago. Chemistry for long hair is the ability to quickly style them into a stylish hairstyle. What types of curling are there and how to make the right choice - read below.

Acid perm

The active ingredient for creating curls here is a substance such as glyceryl monothioglycolate. Hair curled in this way lasts up to six months. This method is not the safest, but it does not reveal hair scales.

This method is not suitable for everyone, because under the influence of acid, the curls become more brittle. For owners of sensitive scalp, it is better to do a more gentle perm.

Less persistent - lasts about three months. But the curl turns out to be steeper and more elastic. A big plus is that when creating a curl, they are not used. high temperatures, and the curls are natural. The main thing active substance here is ammonium thioglycolate. It opens the hair scales and penetrates inside. This method is not suitable for coarse, straight hair.

With thio glycolic acid

This is a gentle type of acid curling, but the disadvantage is that it lasts only a month and a half.

Neutral look: coarse hair chemistry and other possibilities

Compositions for it are made taking into account hair zones that absorb liquid well and are hydrophobic, so the hairs do not swell too much. This is a great opportunity to get a massive hair chemistry that will look natural.

Amino acid

Even less harmful than previous species. It contains proteins and amino acids that heal hair. The curls are natural and soft.

But it is not very durable, and also not suitable for long or coarse hair.

Silk

The composition contains silk proteins, so it not only creates curls, but also heals them.

Biowave

In this method, the hair is not only curled into curls, but also saturated with protein. In this case, curlers can be used in different diameters. Suitable for normal and.

Carving: the illusion of a vertical perm or light chemistry

Carving is not really a curling, but rather a technique of hair styling, which then helps to give it any shape. For him, chemical preparations are used, but this is not exactly "chemistry" in the usual sense, but rather a long-term styling that lasts a couple of months. Using this technique, you can twist the ends and create the illusion of vertical chemistry, light chemistry and curl your whole head.

Wellaformer

This is not a method, but a device with which a perm is done. A wellaformer is a latex bag in which strands are placed. The curls are twisted due to the compression of the bags.

Double winding

Not a bad option for long strands. At the same time, at the roots, they are wound on strands with a smaller diameter, and the bobbins go to meet each other.

Curling the ends

Allows you to adjust triangular face and make rare and Thin hair.

Curling on papillotes

The good thing is that the curls are softer and more natural, without hard creases.

Curling the roots

The good thing is that, firstly, it gives volume, and secondly, it does not harm the ends of the hair. The method is also used if the hair has grown back and there is a need to correct the hairstyle. True, the effect of it is short-lived.

Bubble French method

The peculiarity is that the composition is whipped into foam before application. This ensures the ideal temperature regime, and the braids are saturated with oxygen. Thanks to the "bubbles", the curls are as natural as possible.

Straightening or anti-curling

Popular not only among black girls, but also among our compatriots.

For straightening, a special composition is applied to the head and the hair is combed for a long time and diligently.

Wet chemistry

This laying is called in another way vertical with spiral curls... This curling method differs from other types in that the curls are small, and the strands have a moist appearance.

In order for everything to turn out as beautifully as that of photo models, you need to contact only a trusted master. Only thanks to his efforts, the curls will be spectacular and healthy, and you will spend a minimum of time on styling.

The downside is that the hair becomes coarse after it, so you need to moisturize and nourish them. To do this, on cleanly washed strands, you need to apply masks and leave-in products that restore hair.

Most impressively wet chemistry looks on curls below the shoulders, not very thick and soft.

A few secrets

Any perm, even bio or silk, spoils the braids, so it is best to treat and feed the hair before going to the master. Moreover, the thicker the hair, the longer it will last. So take the time for homemade masks and lamination.
If the curls are not very thick, then they will definitely become drier after this procedure, so before going to the salon it is worth stocking up on oils and fluids.
The unpleasant smell after the procedure will last a long time, so it is best to perm before the weekend. Get rid of unpleasant aromas with lemon juice, rosemary or lavender water.
It is best to use cold air when laying.
After chemotherapy, severe loss can begin. It is better to stock up on vitamins right away. It is also worth preparing for the fact that the skin at the roots will suffer greatly and there will be dandruff.
It is better not to touch the bangs at all.
After curling, it is important to observe the following rule: wash your hair - dry it immediately.
Do not dye your hair after this procedure.

Curling products

At home, curling for long hair is quite doable. The main thing is to pick up suitable remedy... Below are the most popular compositions.

Undoubtedly beautiful hair girls always attract attention. It's beautiful, feminine, sexy. However, the idea of beauty in different people differ from each other. Every owner of straight hair at least once wanted to give her hair volume. It is easy to do this at home using a tool such as a curler or a curling iron, but, you must admit, the effect will be unstable. Permed hair is used to achieve a longer lasting effect.

Permed hair is a chemical reaction between keratin and cystine. For this reason, straight hair becomes softer and, accordingly, easier to curl into beautiful curls. Thanks to modern developments in this area, girls can use this procedure without the slightest harm to their hair, although some time ago this service was classified as harmful.

Despite the fact that perm is safe procedure, there are a number of precautions that must be taken into account in order to avoid negative side effects:

Perming is not recommended for owners of thin, dry and brittle hair, as this procedure can negatively affect your hair.
If you are allergic, be sure to warn the master about the need to check the body for the reaction to the chemicals used in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.
Perm is contraindicated for pregnant women and women who are breastfeeding, as the substances used during the perm procedure can harm your baby.
Before curling hair that was previously dyed with henna or basma, consult a specialist, otherwise the consequences may be completely unexpected.
If you have recently dyed your hair, do not rush to curl your hair. It is worth postponing the procedure for at least a few days.
If you are sick or taking any medications, it is better to refuse this service for a while.

The main requirement for perm is that the hair structure should be minimally affected.

As a result of their activities, experienced specialists have created a classification of perm by types:

Acid perm. Will last up to six months. This is the most popular perm method, but not the safest! Not recommended for girls with thin hair and soft hair! The procedure will make such hair more brittle and sensitive. The curls are tight.
Alkaline perm. Lasts for three months. Compared to acid perm, it is a softer way to create curls. Find the right hair care products to keep your curls healthy.
Neutral perm. It is a symbiosis of acid and alkaline curling methods. However, this method, among other things, is distinguished by the use of a drug such as allantoin, which has emollient properties. A neutral curl for stunning, long-lasting curls! This procedure will do for different types hair.
Biowave. It is a tougher method when compared with the previous options, since it has a stronger drying effect. At the same time, absolutely used chemicals are replaced with neutral and natural ones, which makes this procedure suitable for fine or previously lightened hair. Also during the procedure, both moisturizing and restoring components are used. The biowaving effect lasts up to six months, however, frequent use of this procedure is not recommended in order to avoid fragility of the ends.
Silk perm. The procedure got its name because during the procedure, preparations based on silk proteins are used. It is this component that makes the procedure caring, and also improves the structure of the hair. Even if your curls have previously suffered from lightening, at the end of the procedure they will look healthier. But this type of perm is much more expensive than all others.
Japanese perm. Compared to silk curling, it is more durable (2-6 months). This procedure is also more beneficial due to the fact that the moisture regulation of the hair occurs through the use of LPK. This procedure is safe not only for the hair, but also for the roots. The curls are as natural as possible.
Electric curling. Recommended only for undamaged hair! When using this method, the curls are not damaged, but this method is very laborious. Therefore, it is better to entrust this procedure to a professional. The effect is not so noticeable: a strong volume appears, the curls curl slightly.

By examining the various types of perm, you can determine which hair perm is best for you for a long time.

let's consider possible options perm for hair of different lengths.

Perm for short hair

Add volume with the root perm method so you no longer have to comb every morning.
If you are the owner of fine and rare strands, create an amazing look for yourself by curling the ends of your hair.
Biowave, which does not contain aggressive components, is also suitable for owners.
Care should be taken to the procedure if your choice fell on an acid perm.

Perm for medium hair

American perm. The most common type of long-term curling in the world. Thanks to the use of curlers in the style of "Olivia Garden", curls of stunning beauty are obtained.
An ideal option for hair will be a perm called "Silk Wave". After the procedure, the hair acquires a beautiful shine. This is ideal for perming large curls for medium hair!
For hair of medium length, prone to oily, excellent option will become a French bubble perm. This will create curls of flawless little curls.

See what stylish perm for medium hair photos are presented in our selection!

An unusual solution is the creation of curls using a wellaformer. Curls are created by squeezing latex curling pouches.
An original solution for owners will be a curling method called double winding.
If the strands do not please you with their density, a vertical perm, which is perhaps known to you as "wet chemistry", is an excellent solution.

The size of your curls is determined only by the diameter of the curlers used during the procedure. Therefore, perming hair for large curls will not become an unattainable dream for you! All you need is your desire and the right curlers!

Remember that hair after perming requires gentle care... Consider the basic care recommendations:

The most common method is using olive oil (burdock, sunflower or castor oil) to restore damaged hair.
You should also purchase a "mild" shampoo designed to treat chemically damaged hair.
For a hassle-free combing, consider purchasing a wide-toothed comb. In this case, you should not comb your wet hair, wait until the hair is dry. And as far as possible, stop using a hair dryer!

Perming allows you to change dramatically! Take a look at the amazing change of look that permed hair gives before and after photos. After curling, the hair gains fantastic volume, but because of this, the length is concealed. Therefore, if you have planned to create a fashionable haircut, then the best solution will postpone the visit to the hairdresser for a while after the procedure.

Don't want to pay extra money but still want to create amazing curls yourself? Know this is real! After all, nowadays women of fashion have access to a perm at home.

Make sure you have access to all the tools you need during the curling process:

Curlers the right size with clamps;
Sparse-toothed non-metal combs;
Old clothes that you don't mind ruining;
Warm cap;
Two scouring sponges;
Measuring beakers;
Two non-metal bowls;
Harness;
Several towels;
Large bucket for water.

Be sure to read the instructions on the labels before you start curling your hair!

Wash your hair gently with any shampoo or laundry soap without affecting the scalp.
Use a towel to remove excess moisture.
Comb with a wide-toothed comb.
Take the curlers of the selected diameter and gently wind all the strands.
Use a sunscreen to protect your face.
Take the right amount of chemical solution and apply it to your hair very quickly.
Put on a warm cap.
Wait a while (according to the instructions).
Rinse hair gently, rinsing thoroughly to remove chemical composition.
Use the fixing agent as directed.
Rinse your hair again.
Style without a hair dryer.

Be careful while perming, it is a very difficult and time-consuming process! If you doubt your capabilities, it is better to use the services of professionals.

Highly important factor in the process of curling the hair are individual characteristics organism. But you can always study the section perm hair, reviews and accept final decision whether you need a hair perm procedure or not.

Was last modified: April 15th, 2016 by MaksimB

Perm was invented by hairdresser Karl Nessler in November 1906. His first client was his wife. Permanent curling is certainly not the best for healthy hair. useful way but beauty, as they say, requires sacrifice, and the number of girls turning to a beauty salon to get the coveted curls is growing.

Hair curling methods

Hair curling can be categorized according to the type of chemical composition with which the hair is treated. Our mothers and grandmothers curled their hair using acid and alkaline permanent curling. These methods are still relevant, in addition, acid and alkaline perms stay on the hair for as long as possible - from six months or more.

Acid hair curling

The curling preparation penetrates into the hair without revealing its outer scales. Thus, a very tight curl is obtained. However, if you have thin and soft hair this type of curling is contraindicated for you - the curls will quickly lose their shape and stretch out at the roots. For owners of sensitive scalp and dry brittle hair, this type of chemistry is also not suitable, it will completely finish the hair, and you will have to cut your hair very short and treat your hair with masks.

Acid perm using thioglycolic acid is very fragile, lush curls lose their volume in a little over a month. However, it is the most gentle method for hair. This perm is recommended even for newly colored hair.

Alkaline hair curling

less persistent, lasts up to 3 months. Curls are elastic and look natural. Unlike acid curling, here the preparations penetrate into the hair, revealing its outer scales. This treatment is milder on the hair, but still not suitable for many hair types. If your hair is straight, coarse and heavy, then it will become even less resistant and last for about a month. Alkaline curls are cheaper than acid ones.

Neutral hair curling

has a long history of emollient properties and is suitable for all hair types. The chemical composition of the drug includes allantoin, the curls are strong and elastic, the curling itself is relatively stable, it will last from three months to six months, depending on your hair type.

Amino Acid Hair Curling

contains amino acids and proteins in the preparation. They nourish and heal hair, which helps to minimize bad influence chemistry on the hair. Curls are soft and natural looking. Unfortunately, curls are short-lived. This method is not suitable for coarse, heavy or long hair, because curls will develop very quickly under the weight of your weight

Hair curling "Silk wave"

The preparation contains silk proteins, which take care of the hair and do not spoil the hair structure. Even bleached hair after such "chemistry" they look healthier.

Bio-curling hair

The biowave does not include ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and thioglycolic acid; they are replaced with a preparation similar to hair molecules that connect the sulfur bridges of the hair. Curling based on such preparations gives hair not only permanent curls, but also gives absolutely natural and healthy look... There are several technologies for biowaving, for example, "Angel Curls" or italian technology using bamboo extract.

Japanese hair curling

with lipid-protein complex LC2 is recommended for weakened hair. It is more durable than silk, and the biphasic lipid-protein complex regulates hair moisture, maintaining shine and elasticity. The cost is about the same as for the "silk wave".

American hair curling

ideal for medium length hair. The difference between American curling and other types lies in the fact that special complex designs made of Olivia Garden curlers are used for it.

Root chemistry

Perfect solution for short and shoulder length hair that lacks volume. Also, root chemistry is done in the case when the hair with permanent curling has noticeably grown back. Root chemistry on straight hair will allow you to lift the hair, for example, at the back of the head. The effect of such a curling is lost as the hair grows, and at the roots it will be noticeable in a month. Curling at the ends of the hair is an excellent solution for thin, sparse hair trimmed with steps or cascade. Hair gains lushness and serves as an excellent base for creating hairstyles.

Wellaformers replaced curlers and papillotes. In beauty salons, the technology of curling hair with the help of latex bags, which shrinks and curls the hair, has recently appeared. Such a device is called wellaformers. As a result of using this new item, you will get a lot of lush, but soft wavy curls. Hair when curling with wellaformers should be of medium length, or slightly longer. This is due to the fact that the hair at the roots in this case remains straight.

Good master in good salon be sure to tell you what type of curling is best for your hair. Before the procedure itself, professionals in their field, first of all, will conduct a tensile test on the strand and a reagent test on the skin. A skin test behind the ear is done to determine if you are allergic to the selected compound. After that, you will be prompted to do a test on one strand with the selected drug. This is required in order to determine the concentration of the formulation suitable for your hair type. If, after using the drug, they look dull and unhealthy, then the concentration of the drug is reduced.

In some cases, the master may refuse to curl your hair. For example, if they are discolored or unhealthy enough that many of the hairs in the test strand break when pulled. The reason for refusal to perform the procedure may be ordinary henna... It clogs the hair scales and prevents the penetration of the composition inside. Before doing chemistry on your hair, you will be offered to make an alcohol-oil complex in order to pull the henna remnants out of your hair, but one session will not be enough here.

If you have recently dyed your hair, then you need to wait with curling your hair. It is not recommended to do chemotherapy during the "critical days". If you were going to cut your hair and curl it, then first do the chemistry, and after the final haircut, but not vice versa.

If the master immediately offered you a perm without preliminary testing, or in the salon they practice only one type of permanent hair curling, which may not suit you at all, it is better to find another master in another salon.

There are two methods of perm: direct and indirect.

Direct method. Each strand is moistened with a chemical composition and wound on bobbins according to the classical scheme.

Twisting according to the classical scheme (Fig. 1, a) starts from the lower occipital zone of the head. Then the hair of the middle and upper occipital zones is wrapped, then - the temporomandibular and, finally, on the parietal. All hair is curled in the direction of its natural growth.

Indirect method. Wet hair is wound on bobbins according to any scheme (Fig. 2, b, c), and then moistened with a chemical composition.

a - classic; b - directional; c - variable

In this case, wetting the hair with the composition is done in three steps:

* a small amount of the composition is applied to the hair to soften it slightly;

* the average amount of the composition is applied to the hair in order to thoroughly moisten it;

* carry out control wetting of hair.

The composition begins to be applied from the lower occipital zone.

After choosing a method for performing a perm, they begin to wind the hair on bobbins, while taking into account the following:

the width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin;
the thickness of the twisted strand should not be more than the diameter of the bobbin;
strands must be pulled strictly perpendicular to the head.
One perm requires 50g of the composition.

A warming cap is put on the curled hair and the composition is kept for 10 to 40 minutes. The exposure time depends on the concentration of the chemical composition and the condition of the hair. When using Klimazon, the exposure time is halved.

After a while, it is necessary to check the quality of the curl, for which they unwind (not completely, but only by 1-2 turns) and screw back 3-4 bobbins in different zones, and also compare the diameters of the bobbin and the resulting curl. If these diameters coincide, then proceed to the next stage: the composition is washed off hot water without spinning the bobbins.

Then fixation is performed by laying a tourniquet from a napkin along the edge line of hair growth so that the fixer does not fall on the face.

Currently, there are two types of fixer available: ready-made and concentrated.

One fixation requires 50 g of fixer (3-5% concentration of hydrogen peroxide). If the fixer is ready, it is applied with a sponge or applicator to the bobbins and foamed so that a foam cap is formed. The holding time of the composition on the hair is 10 minutes. If the fixer is concentrated, it must be diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio before application.

After the foam has settled, the bobbins are untwisted and the fixer is applied to the ends of the hair for another 5 minutes. Then the fixer is washed off with clean water.

After that, the final work is performed: neutralization special composition, styling, cutting, drying, etc.

Perm, performed with braids and bobbins

Wet hair is divided into zones, as shown in fig. 2, a.

a - division of hair into zones;b - braided pigtails with ends twisted on bobbins;c - the resulting hairstyle; arrows indicate the direction of hair separation

The first row of braids should be 5cm wide. The number of braids depends on the thickness of the hair; the thickness of each braid is 2-2.5 cm. The hair is braided tightly; the ends are not braided, but wound on bobbins and secured with an elastic band.

The zone of the second row of braids should be slightly wider than the zone of the first row, and the third - wider than the zone of the second row.

Thus, the hair is processed row by row to the top of the back of the head.

Hair strands in the temporomandibular and parietal zones are braided into thicker braids (3-3.5 cm).

After all the hair is braided in pigtails, and the ends of the braids are wound on bobbins, they are impregnated from all sides with a chemical composition and kept for 15-25 minutes, depending on the condition and structure of the hair. Then the pigtails with bobbins are washed very thoroughly with water (t = 50 ... 60 ° C) and a fixer is applied, which is kept for 10 minutes. Next, the fixer is washed off with water, the bobbins are removed, the braids are unraveled and the hair is washed again with water.

At the end of the perm, the hair is washed with a curative emulsion and combed with a large-toothed comb.

Hair is dried naturally or with a hair dryer.

The hairstyle turns out to be natural, with large curls.

This combined chemical permanent method is recommended for those who do not use curlers to curl their hair.

To make the hair look lush and thick, as well as to facilitate their styling, a root perm method is used (Fig. 3). It is recommended for thin or overgrown hair after perm, as well as for hairstyles in which it is necessary to create volume at the hair roots.

The essence root way curling consists in the fact that not all the hair is curled, but only part of it at the root, leaving the ends of the strands straight or keeping the same curl on them.

You can start wrapping from any area of the head. However, it must be borne in mind that if the hair has previously been permed, then the bobbin should be wound, stepping back 2 cm from the regrown part of the hair. For example, if the hair has grown by 8 cm, then the bobbin is set at a distance of 10 cm from the edge of the hair.

The strand around the bobbin is wrapped in a half eight. In this case, the end of the strand is in the left hand, and with the right hand that part of it, which is located on the bobbin, is held. By making required amount turns towards the roots of the hair, the bobbin is secured with an elastic band.

Having twisted all the hair in this way, they proceed to the next stage of their processing: a chemical composition is applied to each bobbin so that it does not fall on the untwisted ends of the hair.

The exposure time is 10-25 minutes (depending on the hair structure).

All subsequent stages of root curling are similar to the steps of a classic perm.

Spiral hair perm using modified bobbins

There are two ways to perform a spiral perm (Fig. 4).

Spiral perm and two ways to do it

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), twisted into a bundle and wound in a spiral onto a bobbin. In this case, the turns of the spiral are placed close to each other. The direction of twisting of the bundle and the direction of winding on the bobbin must coincide.

A lock of hair is separated in the form of a square (starting from the lower occipital zone), while it is not twisted into a tourniquet, but is immediately wound in a spiral onto a bobbin, placing the loops close to each other.

Permed hair perm start from the lower occipital zone. Allocate a strand of hair in the form of a square and wind it tightly on a plastic hairpin according to the principle of eight. Further, all stages of the classical perm are performed.

With a corrugated perm, the same curl is obtained as with a perm with braids.

Perm on boomerangs (Fig. 6) allows you to get a voluminous curl. In this case, the bobbins are wound in a checkerboard pattern. All other steps are the same as for a classic perm. The width of the strand should not exceed the diameter of the bobbin.

Permed hair with ring curls

Perm with ring curls (Fig. 7) is used to create volume on short hair... The hair is divided into strands in the form of squares, the size of which depends on the desired effect, and arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The larger the square, the more voluminous the resulting curl will be. The end of the strand is wrapped in a special piece of paper, the strand is twisted into a ring curl and fixed with a non-metallic papillote.

Permed hair - Types and types

Perm has a long history and it has been a long time before this procedure has been perfected. Indeed, quite recently, in all Soviet hairdressing salons, clients were curled in the same manner so that they looked like lambs. Such chemistry looked unnatural and even comical, in addition to everything else, it also burned the hair - in a word, disfigured women as best they could.

Nature has endowed a few representatives of the fair sex with lush curls. But adorable curls suit almost everyone - they soften the features of a woman's face, giving them a feminine look. And for those who want to always have beautiful hairstyle with curly hair, there is a wonderful way out - perm, which can completely change the image of a woman and hide some imperfections in the shape of the face.

Chemistry is an auxiliary method for hair styling. She prepares the hair for curling. Recommended for those who daily use curlers or curling irons. In addition, thanks to chemistry, the problem associated with oily hair is eliminated.

The effect of frizzy hair usually lasts for 3-4 months, depending on the quality of the chemical composition. But, nevertheless, the individual characteristics of the structure of human hair should be taken into account.

Currently, there have been dramatic changes in the field of perming hair. Modern chem. perm has high-quality highly effective preparations and tools that allow any perm improvisation from the smallest to the largest curl. From the previous chemistry, only the principle of hair curling, based on a change in the structure of the hair, remained. Everything regarding the methods of approach to the procedure and the method of curling, they have improved so much that it allowed modern chemistry traumatize hair to a minimum.

There are many types and types of perm for hair:

Types of hair perm

Acid-based curling. Provides long-lasting hold, suitable for all hair types, but has a strong effect on the hair.

Alkaline perm. This type has a softer effect on hair and gives curls natural look, but not suitable for all hair types and lasts no more than 3 months.

Neutral perm. It has a gentle effect on the hair due to the fact that this method of curling is PH-neutral. Suitable for all hair types, it works equally well on all areas of the hair, regardless of the degree of hair damage.

Amino acid perm. Amino acids and proteins contained in the composition penetrate into the hair during the procedure and help them recover sooner.

Types of perm hair

Curling on papillotes creates the effect of naturally curly hair with light, wavy curls flowing over each other.

Spiral curling great for long hair. After curling, small spirals twist into rings without twisting with each other.

Perm "On a pigtail" suitable for shoulder-length hair and below. The strands are treated with a chemical composition, braided into small tight pigtails, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins.

Perm "On a hairpin" looks good on shoulder length hair. Hair strands are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the second bobbin- part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is “twisted”. The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm "Children's". Its purpose is to exclude the effect of the composition on the scalp. The head is covered with a plastic cap, strands are pulled through the holes in it and the usual perm is done.

Basal perm is performed on the part of the strand adjacent to the scalp to create fluff at the roots or to create curls at the roots of the hair in case the hair that was previously permed has grown back.

Unfortunately, perm has a strong effect on the hair structure, which in some cases can lead to serious problems... To minimize possible adverse consequences perm, follow these simple rules:

do not dye your hair before perming;
if you are sick, stop perming;
Choose products for curling that contain less alcohol and a lot of nutrients;
to wash your hair after a perm, use a special hair shampoo with a perm or a mild shampoo for damaged and weakened hair;
to moisturize and strengthen your hair, restore shine and silkiness to it, make hair masks containing useful substances (moisturizing panthenol and keratin, collagens, silk proteins), as well as hot masks using hair oil;
after a perm, the ends of the hair often begin to split, so regularly cut the ends of the hair a little or apply a special cream to the ends of the hair;
for better preservation Comb your hair with wide-toothed combs only.

Perm as a process, a mechanism of change ...

Perming as a process

The mechanism of hair reshaping during perm. Perming is a process by which the hair becomes splendid and pliable, and the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness. A variety of styling is performed on the basis of a perm. The main task of this procedure is to make the hair able to maintain a given shape. The principle of operation of any of the permanents entering the market today is the same as 60 years ago.

Human hair is made up of keratin, a water-insoluble protein that contains spindle-shaped cells. In turn, keratin consists of amino acids, one of which is cystine, which stabilizes the structure of the protein, but under the action of perm drugs, it breaks down at the site of the cis-tine bond:

S - CH2 - CH (NH2) - COOH

After breaking this bond, the hair becomes pliable. Since the hair is wrapped around bobbins, in cross-section they take the shape of an ellipse. It is known that straight hair in cross-section is round, wavy has the shape of an ellipse, and highly curly hair has a flattened ellipse (Fig. 82).

To restore the elasticity of the hair, oxidation should be performed, for example, with a weak 1-3% hydrogen peroxide solution or a ready-made fixer. In this case, the cystine connection is restored. However, due to the hydrolysis of keratin amino acids under the action of a perm preparation on them, irreversible processes also occur - a decrease in hair mass.

The chemical process takes place at pH = 9 - 11; the higher the pH of the composition, the stronger it acts on the hair. The hair swells faster, the cystine S-S bonds break faster, but the hydrolysis of hair amino acids also occurs more actively. Therefore, to

The choice of exposure time and concentration of the drug should be approached individually, depending on the Hair, Their structure, condition (dry, oily, normal), from the effect of oxidative dyes on the hair.

Perm stages. There are three stages of perm. On First stage They produce a chemical effect using formulations and a physical effect using bobbins. These two processes are called plasticization.

On Second stage They produce a chemical effect - they consolidate the newly formed bonds with the help of a fixer.

On Third stage Neutralize - hardening of keratin.

The principle of a perm. The strength of the hair is ensured by the presence of double-grain bridges that create an internal bond in the keratin chains and give the hair its shape.

V first phase perm occurs chemical process Deoxidation. The deoxidizer brings hydrogen into the hair, which breaks apart disulfide bridges. During this phase, chemical action takes place.

In second phase Cheating occurs. Hair changes shape when wrapped on bobbins. The torn double-grain bridges in the keratin chains are displaced and the hair takes on the shape of a bobbin. In this phase, mechanical action occurs.

V third phase there is a Fixation.

Oxygen is released due to the oxidizing agent contained in the fixative. Combining with hydrogen, it rebuilds disulfide bridges. Hair is fixed in new form... Its integrity and strength returns to it, but in a new form (Fig. 83). During this phase, chemical action takes place.

The ideal percentage of deoxidation is 30% of destroyed two-sided bridges, which allows you to get an elastic curl and maintain the quality of the hair. On average, this means that every third bridge must be broken. For this, it is very important to choose the right chemical composition and observe the holding time precisely. For example, if you choose too strong a chemical composition or increase the holding time, the hair will become sensitive and will not hold its shape well. Conversely, if you choose a weak chemical composition or shorten the holding time, the curl will be very weak, and such a perm will last for a very short time.

Alkalinity and acidity of solutions. The chemical indicator of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution is expressed in terms of pH. PH scale includes

Changes values from 0 to 14; clean water, considered a Neutral Substance, corresponds to a value of 7 in the middle of the scale. A solution with a pH value below 7 is Acid, and a pH value above 7 is Alkaline. An alkaline solution causes the hair to soften and swell, while an acidic solution shrinks and hardens. There are instruments and paper indicators with a special composition for determining the pH of various solutions. So, when a piece of paper soaked in nitric acid salts is immersed in alkaline environment its darkening is noted. V acidic environment there is little or no color change. If you wet your hair with water and check the pH, then the resulting indicator in the range from 4.4 to 5.5 will correspond to the norm of a weakly acidic reaction. Perm compositions have a pH of about 10 with an alkaline shift. The acidity index in neutralizing substances is about 3, this indicator is located in the acidic part of the scale. Until the master examines the condition of the client's hair and does not have data on previously performed cosmetic procedures, do not use solutions with a pH closer to 7. Lack of awareness can damage the client's hair.

Alkaline perm. The main active ingredient of an alkaline perm formulation is ammonium thioglycolate, a chemical compound formed by the reaction of ammonia with glycolic acid, the pH of the alkaline formulation of a perm lotion is usually 8.2-9.6, depending on the amount of ammonia. This composition penetrates the hair faster than an acid-balanced one. Sometimes an alkaline perm is done using a water perm, and some hair require a plastic hood and others do not.

The advantages of an alkaline perm include Strong curls (usually last longer); the possibility of processing at room temperature.

Alkaline perm is used to style hair that is difficult to process, as well as to get a curl if the client has previously turned out to be too weak a permanent.

Acid-balanced perm. The main active ingredient in acid-balanced formulations is glyceryl monotiglycolate. Its pH is lower than that of the alkaline composition. This formulation is softer on the hair and usually produces less tight curls than an alkaline cold curl. The acid-balanced lotion has a pH of approximately 4.5-6.5, the composition penetrates into the hair more slowly than alkaline, so the hair treatment lasts longer. The heat used in this case can be of two types: from the chemical reaction itself (exothermic

Czech method); from external source- usually a climazon or infrared bottle (endothermic method).

Recently, new acid-balanced formulations have been developed that allow perm at room temperature. They have a slightly higher pH than normal ones, and their active ingredient is the same.

The advantages of an acid-balanced perm are more soft curls and longer but controlled processing times. An acid-balanced perm is done if the hair is naturally fragile or colored; in order to get curls or waves close to natural, perm is the basis of the hairstyle. The disadvantage is that acid-based perm is less durable than the classic (alkaline-based), after 4-6 weeks the hair becomes less lush.

Composition of neutralizers. Neutralizers for acid-balanced and alkaline perm perform the same function: to fix the curls for a long time. Neutralization is very important stage... If the hair is not properly neutralized, the curl may loosen or develop after shampooing. Basically, neutralizers consist of a relatively small amount of hydrogen peroxide, an oxidizing agent and an acidic pH. Methods of using neutralizers vary.

Neutral perm. Like an alkaline perm, it has a pH of 7.4, but is much more gentle than an acid-based perm.

Scientists have developed the method of neutral perm taking into account the fact that hair has so-called hydrophilic zones (repelling water), which easily absorb excess liquid for perm, in contrast to hydrophobic zones. A neutral perm smooths out these differences. It protects sensitive areas, while healthy areas begin to absorb fluid more actively. As a result, the hair does not experience additional stress, as it does not swell too much. Neutral perm is ideal for clients who have rough hair after perm and need more protection. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out the damage that has appeared in stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

Selecting a permanent. The choice of which type of permanent to apply (acid-balanced or alkaline) is made based on the type of hair.

Modern means for permanent represent ample opportunities choice. There are alkaline formulations for bleached hair and acid-balanced ones - for coarse, unruly hair. Each of these will give excellent results when properly selected and followed by instructions.

Preparatory work. Preparatory work for a chemical wave includes:

* Preparation of the workplace;

* Inviting a client to a chair;

* Conducting a dialogue;

* Hand washing and disinfection of instruments;

Preparation of fixtures: two non-metallic bowls (one for the composition, the second for fixing), two sponges (small for the composition, large for fixing), applicators, gloves, a measuring cup, a warming cap and bobbins;

Hair combing and diagnostics: determination of hair condition (natural, dyed, bleached), texture (thick, medium, thin), structure (oily, normal, dry), length: up to 15 cm or more, sensitivity (test: at the bend of the elbow or behind auricle the composition is applied and kept for 5-10 minutes);

Covering the client with linen;

Performing hygienic washing.

All haircuts with a clear, geometric shape are performed prior to perm.

Bobbin types and sizes. Bobbins are concave and straight. The concave bobbins in the center are narrower, towards the ends gradually

Expanding; as a result, the curl is steeper at the end and looser at the hair roots. The diameter of the Straight Bobbin is the same along the entire length, and the curl turns out to be even. The bobbin has an elastic band (elastic) attached to one end and secured to the other when the hair is already wound.

When choosing the size of the bobbin, the desired number of curls and the physical characteristics of the hair must be taken into account. The number of waves, curls and splendor of the hair are determined by the master and the client in a preliminary conversation. The type of hairstyle depends primarily on the size of the bobbins, their number and placement on the head. When choosing the size of the bobbins, hair characteristics such as length, bounce and texture are taken into account, with the latter being the most important. So, with a rough texture and good elasticity, you need to divide the hair into small strands and take large bobbins. Medium texture and bounce requires dividing the hair into medium strands; bobbins should also be of medium size. With a fine texture and poor elasticity, you should divide the hair into smaller strands than with an average texture; bobbins are taken from small to medium to prevent hair damage. To curl the hair on the back of the head, take the smallest strands and the smallest bobbins. To make a permanent curl on long Hair (longer than 15 cm), they are divided into small strands, rolled evenly and close to the head. The division into small strands promotes uniform wetting.

Permed hair

Many women dream of beautiful curls, but not every nature is given curly hair. One of the options to achieve the desired effect is a perm.

Many of us, for sure, had a chance to go through the disappointment of the performed "classic" perm. Spoiled, incomprehensible hair, sticking out in all directions and one dream - to cut it all off as soon as possible. Now there are opportunities to minimize the adverse effects of chemistry on the hair, it is now possible to choose a perm not only in terms of external indicators, but also according to the type of your hair.

True, a lot will depend on the wizard who will make you the perm. From my own experience, I can say that my very first perm was the most successful one. It was done with a soul, but in completely unthinkable conditions, with the most common "Lock". I could not achieve more of this result, which is a pity.

A real professional will definitely make an analysis of your hair type, and will select a perm in accordance with the results. So, for example, for the tired hair will fit gentle acid wave. Unlike conventional chemistry, acid curling has a pH value between 6 and 7, which is almost the same as the natural acidic protective cover of skin and hair. This means the acidic curling won't tire your hair too much. If you have sensitive scalp, a biological perm containing sulphides is suitable for you and is very gentle on the scalp. Regular chemicals are only suitable for healthy or very fine hair. Its only advantage is that it lasts at least a widow longer than any other curling option.

And, nevertheless, the choice is yours.

So, what you need to consider when making a choice:

Negative points:

Any hair requires care and attention, perm does not relieve you of the hassle of styling and grooming, rather the opposite. Despite the fact that gentle perm options have now been developed, nevertheless, the hair is stressed and negative impact and need rehabilitation treatment... Permed hair requires gentle combing and styling.

The gentle perm lasts less than the classic one.

In many ways, success will be determined by the professionalism of the master. He will not only make a high-quality perm, but will also help you decide on the choice of the type of perm, depending on the structure of your hair, their health, on the expected size of the curls and their stiffness. If you are not sure about the master, you risk ruining your hair and mood.

There are a lot of undesirable points that can nullify the results. More on this later.

You may need to tint your hair as it can still lose its original color.

If you live in an area with a hot, dry climate, this can also be detrimental to the condition of your hair. They will require more careful maintenance.

Consistency. If you change your mind, you will have to wait a long time until your hair becomes natural, and possibly part with the stubborn part of it.

And now for the positive aspects:

If you have a humid climate, and at the same time you like curls, you should choose a perm, since in the rain, in damp weather, chemically curled curls will only be clearer, which cannot be said about curls laid on curlers or a curling iron.

Perming hair can be done less frequently.

Hair becomes more "manageable".

If you have greasy hair, chemistry will dry them out.

Perms add volume to your hair.

Consistency. This can also be a positive quality if you make the right choice.

If you unbearably want to do chemistry and it just makes your mind feel calmer, do it, taking into account all the necessary information for making the right choice.

Do not perm if:

your hair is thin, sick, and needs restorative treatment.
your body is weakened by illness or stress.
you are pregnant or taking hormonal drugs affecting hormonal background your body, so to speak, creating the effect of "imaginary pregnancy".
you are breastfeeding.
you have critical days.
you have high blood pressure, if it's low, try to raise it by drinking a cup of coffee.
in a room where perm is performed less than 24 ° C in winter and 22 ° C in summer.
you are allergic to the drug.
you have recently shaded or dyed your hair. After dyeing your hair, you need to wait 2-3 weeks with a perm. Spend that time doing some intense hair care.
the day before, you treated your hair with a composition containing metal or ursol (for example, "Hair color restorer", etc.)
you constantly use products containing silicones. If it is a conditioner shampoo, the silicones it contains will dissolve in water, just tell your hairdresser to remove any residues of this product with an exfoliating shampoo. Read more about silicones below.

Perm "killers"?

Silicones in combination shampoos

(The material is based on the book "500 Hairstyles and Makeup Tips. Pro Tips")

Products called Two-in-one are becoming more and more popular. Are they to blame for the failed perm?

Silicones are different

1. Water-soluble silicones form stable lather and are specially used in shampoos. They are not deposited in the hair.

2. Silicone oils enhance shine and make hair easier to detangle. They are found in rinses, medications, and many combination products. These oils do not dissolve in water, but can be washed off with shampoo. At frequent use they accumulate in the hair.

3. High polymer silicones bond split hair ends. Silicones, especially those found in the hair tip care liquid, are deposited in the form of a thick film on the hair and are difficult to remove.

Weak perm, boring coloring and hair hanging limply after each wash - these difficulties are encountered by many women. But few know how to deal with it.

Meanwhile, the use of combination products has made hair care easier. Shampoo and conditioner in one bottle is a wonderful discovery. Time is saved, and often this type of hair care e0e is even cheaper. Unsurprisingly, two-in-one products currently have around 15% market share. However, the growing popularity of these products intimidates many hairdressers. "Perming, dyeing and toning the hair is no longer the same as before. Hairdressers are complaining more and more often," says B. Müller, chairman of the board of the Central Union of German Hairdressers. Hairdressers suspect silicone in many products is the culprit.

Silicones are widely used in hair care products and are generally harmless. In many combination shampoos, their proportion is negligible. The droplets of silicone deposited on the hair make it softer, shinier and easier to style. However, with constant use of the shampoo, more and more silicone droplets are deposited on the hair, which form a film and close the pores. Further types chemical treatment, for example, toning or curling, I can no longer have the desired effect on the hair. First of all, delicate fine hair becomes heavy, and the perm does not hold on to it.

H. Daniel from the Union of Hygienic and detergents citing in-house trials and studies in New Zealand and scandinavian countries and found no deterioration in the quality of perm and toning. But, since the research was very recent and the results of longer trials have not yet been obtained, the doubts of the hairdressers seem to be justified.

Undoubtedly, certain types of silicones are always deposited on the hair. Silicones are specially introduced into the liquid for the care of the ends of the hair to achieve just such an effect. Therefore, if you intend to perm, do not often use products containing silicones.<:>

the combination shampoo should not be used daily, but not more often than twice a week. The rest of the time, use your regular shampoo.
you need to buy a combination shampoo in accordance with the type of hair and spend a small amount for each wash.
for washing delicate fine hair, combined shampoos can only be used in exceptional cases. Hair quickly becomes covered with silicone and becomes flaccid.
For hair saturated with silicone, the cosmetic industry produces special neutralizers that prevent the deposition of silicone on the hair. These products are convenient for those who do not want to hesitate with a perm.
When asking a hairdresser to do a perm, toning or coloring, be sure to tell him about the previous hair care.

About perm

What is a perm?

Perm is the general name for the process, as a result of which the hair acquires splendor and pliability, the strands curl into curls of various sizes and stiffness.

What happens to hair when permed?

The substance of the hair softens under the action of an acid (thioglycolic), its natural sulfur compounds dissolve. At this stage of curling, the hair takes on a new shape with the help of curlers or papillotes and is fixed in it.

Which perm is right for your hair?

It entirely depends on their thickness and condition.

It is believed that the thinner the hair, the more demanding it is on perms, since thin hair itself is soft, weak and sagging quickly. Therefore, the curler must be strong enough to fix fine hair in a new shape. Thick thin hair is inherently stronger and better retains its shape, so there is enough "lighter" chemistry for them. The classic perm is best suited for healthy hair... If done correctly, it lasts from three to six months. True, it is not harmful to the hair, therefore, in order for them to maintain their shine and healthy appearance, you have to use special rinses and balms.

If you have a sensitive scalp, it is better to choose a biowave, which contains sulfide instead of thioglycolic acid and acts on the hair and scalp gently and sparingly. The new product is good for the skin: foul-smelling and burning ammonia is not included in its composition. Instead, natural urea is used, under the influence of which the hair swells before curling. This substance is almost odorless and non-polluting environment... But all the same, no hydrogen peroxide-oxidizing agent, which is part of the cream for bleaching hair, is complete. long curling... And this operation also tires the hair.

For tired hair, chemistry with an acid base is suitable. In contrast to the alkaline composition for classical perm, the acid composition has a pH of + 6-7, which is approximately equal to the pH value in the anti-acid coating of hair and skin, which naturally facilitates the penetration of acids into their structure. The disadvantage of an acidic composition is that it is less stable than an alkaline one. Perm lasts about half as long as a conventional perm with a classic composition, about 4-6 weeks. Unfortunately, acid perm is not suitable for all hair types. So, for example, it is useless to try to do an acid perm on the so-called strong hair - smooth and so straight that after each attempt to make waves, they return to their previous state. They simply do not accept the chemical curling fluid. If your waves do not hold at all, ask your hairdresser to test your hair with a special device or just do a test curl on one strand.

Finally, neutral perm - new. It has a neutral pH value, is less damaging to the scalp and works equally well on all areas of the hair. There are areas on the head of every person where the hair is either too rebellious or damaged. Thus, one part of the hair lends itself well to perm, while the other does not. And the consequence of this is an uneven curl, often without shine. Neutral perm has an even effect on the hair and is suitable for all hair types. Ideal for those looking to perm on their own, it comes in wave foam with integrated nutrients. A special keratin complex even during a perm smooths out the damage that has appeared on the stratum corneum and takes care of the elasticity and stability of the hair.

When making your choice, consult a professional hairdresser. It will help you figure out what is right for you.

TYPES OF CHEMICAL CREWS

Curling on papillotes

This type of curling creates the effect of naturally curly hair, creates light wavy curls.

For curling on papillotes top hair divided by "steps". This gives the hairstyle additional flexibility. The hairdresser separates the correspondingly wide strands and winds them on large papillotes. You need to arrange them randomly. Hair strands should be curled in the same direction, but not parallel. This will create a picture of beautifully flowing, naturally curly hair. Then, curling agents are applied. It is selected taking into account the structure and condition of your hair.

Spiral curling

Perfect for long hair, but can also be done up to the earlobe.

The peculiarity of the spiral "chemistry" is in the form of curls. Long hair is twisted in small strands in small spirals. After curling, they curl in rings without twisting with each other. The same effect is achieved by a hairdresser with a regular curling, if he first twists individual strands into bundles. Spiral chemistry is recommended to dry at room temperature or with a hairdryer with a diffuse nozzle. It acts like a filter, allowing air to pass through many small holes, and does not tangle your hair.

Perm "on a pigtail

Suitable for hair down to shoulders and below. The peculiarity of this curling is that strands, braided into small tight braids, the ends of which are twisted on bobbins, are subjected to chemical treatment. But you can also twist the whole braid. This achieves an interesting effect.

Perm "on a hairpin

Looks good on shoulder length hair.

The peculiarity of this curl is that the strands of hair are wound on a hairpin made of non-metallic material.

Perm with twisting of the secondoklyushki

The peculiarity of performing this type of perm is that part of the strand is wound on one bobbin, and then the second is "twisted". The result is curls of varying sizes.

Perm for children

The purpose of performing a "baby" perm is to exclude formulations on the scalp and hair roots.

Such a perm is performed as follows. The head is covered with a plastic cap. With a regular crochet, strands are pulled through the holes in the plastic cap made with the same crochet. Next, the usual perm is done.

Perm "Gemini

This type of perm has a curl shape: half of the strand has curls in the form of vertical curls, and half in the form of horizontal curls.

Root perm

It is used in cases when it is required to perform a perm on a part of the strand adjacent to the scalp, for example, to create fluff at the roots or to obtain curls at the hair roots in the event that hair that has previously been permed has grown back. The length of the strand to be curled is optional.

Advice:

In order to preliminary determine the intended shape of the curl and the appearance of the hairstyle using unconventional species perm, you can perm by dampening the hair strands with plain water with the addition of beer in a 1: 1 ratio or with the addition of citric acid(add citric acid at the tip of a knife to 1/2 cup water).

A few hours after performing a perm, the hair should be rinsed with acidified water (a tablespoon of vinegar per liter of water);

Do not comb your hair on the day of curling;

For 2-4 days, do not wash your hair or subject it to heat treatment, for example, it is not recommended to use a hair dryer, hot curlers, etc.

Do not use electric tongs;

Do not brush your hair. For this, a hairbrush or a comb with sparse teeth is more suitable;

Do not dry your hair, try not to be exposed to direct sunlight, after bathing (in salt or chlorinated water), be sure to rinse your hair;

In order to improve the hair structure, do not use urine therapy, as the curl may soon "develop";

Use special nourishing shampoos and conditioners to wash your hair;

It is advisable to conduct a health and recovery course for hair.

Gentle hair wash. Ideal for washing with a super mild shampoo for damaged hair after a perm or washing with a conditioner shampoo. Hair breaks less as it becomes more elastic. Lathering with shampoo is necessary for the scalp and hair roots. For long hair, it is enough to clean the remaining shampoo flowing down the hair.

Recovery at night. The effect of chemicals during curling affects not only the outer, but also the inner structure of the hair. Protein compounds disappear, which give the hair strength and at the same time make the hair elastic. The consequence of this is dry, brittle hair without shine. A special course of treatment in ampoules restores damaged hair within seven days. Ampoules are used as follows: the liquid from the entire ampoule is applied to dry hair in the evening and combed. Over the course of the night, it will be absorbed into the hair and begin to repair the broken joints. Rinse your hair well in the morning.

The course of treatment in between cases. Instant action, ideal for women who are short on time. To do this, simply sprinkle the hair with a moisturizing liquid. Amazing double effect: injected into dry hair nutrients and at the same time the curl is "refreshed" by means of massage. For hair especially affected by perm, a nutrient spray should be applied daily.

Regular energy saturation. Regardless of whether your hair looks faded after a perm or not, it should be rinsed well after each wash. Hair masks should be done after every 3 or 4 hair washes. Newer perm products contain light nutrients such as moisturizing panthenol and hair-promoting keratin, collagens and silk proteins. They also add elasticity to the curls.

Soft styling is acceptable. This applies mainly to long hair. Be warned: the hot air of a hair dryer is poisonous. Blow dry your hair only with warm air using a diffuser attachment, otherwise the hair will become tangled and the curls will not be able to curl. New: drying under an infrared lamp - just like in a hairdresser. A more gentle drying method is difficult to imagine. If you want to create trendy "big waves", roll large strands of hair on the preheated "Soft Styler" rollers. The advantages of this method: the hair remains dry, the curlers are cooled for 20 minutes and do not need clips or hairpins.

Splendid effective remedy- hot oil. This is the latest innovation: it strengthens the hair without leaving any traces of grease. Its secret lies in a new combination of keratinate and protein hydrolysate ingredients and thermal action. Closed bottles with oily liquid must be heated for 2 minutes in hot water, then uncork and insert into wet hair... Thanks to the heat, the ingredients are evenly distributed over the scalp and work better on the hair. Let the oil soak a little and then wash it off with shampoo. Hair becomes healthier and more elastic thanks to this treatment.