Modern New Look. "Flowers are the most beautiful gift of God to the world after a woman." Gray is not boring
Dior… Dior… My Dior… millions of women are ecstatic to repeat the name of the legendary brand, which sounds the same in all languages. And how much fashion seasons did not replace each other, behind the divine Dior there is always an extraordinary person who subtly feels female beauty, modest man, talented painter Christian Dior.
Christian began his career as a fashion designer, having fully sipped the grief of the loss of loved ones, having survived the bankruptcy of his family, serious illness and poverty. He was 42 when his longtime friend, textile manufacturer Marcel Boussac, offered financial help to open his own fashion house. Dior had to create only 10 years ... As much as 10 years. During this time, he managed to do so much for the fashion world and for women in particular, as far as not every talented couturier was lucky enough throughout his life. Unexpected death at 52, did not become the finale of the Dior fashion empire. On the contrary, his DNA, aesthetics and philosophy, his concept created High style Christian Dior, recognizable at all times no matter who in different years managed the legacy of the great master. The little Prince fashion Yves Saint Laurent, whose career began in this magical place, eccentric John Galliano or restrained stylish Raf Simons.
Flower woman, or a new look
Christian Dior's woman is a flower woman. This says it all: and his extraordinary love for flowers, and reverent attitude to women, and a subtle sense of the aesthetics of the Beautiful. His main muse was his mother, she was famous for her beauty and elegance, she remembered her son beautiful dresses and luxurious aromas. It was she who instilled in young Christian a passion for flowers that never left the life and work of the couturier. It was in her that Dior saw the ideal of a woman, a wife, an impeccable lady.
It is not surprising that it was to flowers that Christian Dior dedicated his first famous collection, with light hand Harper's Bazaar editor-in-chief Carmel Snow named New look... The budding fashion designer did not at all strive to make a revolution. Rather, he dreamed of returning the woman to her former femininity and luxury after the hard years of the war and modest, ascetic clothing. However, these were no longer those archaic crinolines and corsets, but A New Look... “I drew women who resembled flowers, gently convex shoulders, rounded chest lines, liana-like slender waists and wide buttocks, diverging like petals of flowers,” - the designer described the image of a new woman as accurately as possible. “The breast of a nymph, the waist of the Sylphide and a skirt of a thousand folds, which took 80 meters of white fai, which falls in a whirlpool almost to the ankles,” is one of the favorite images of the couturier.
Amid post-war poverty, Dior's luxury sparked a wave of protest. During photo shoots on the streets of Paris, women pounced on fragile models and tore exquisite clothes to shreds. Dior, on the other hand, did not believe that fashion should be accessible to everyone. After all, fashion is a work of art. When you look at the famous canvases of great artists, it should not occur to the desire to destroy the picture just because there is no way to possess it.
Without suspecting it, Dior created a luxury that is available to absolutely all women in the world, including Soviet women. And although the fashion came to us with a ten-year delay, it is difficult to imagine the stylish girls of the 60s who did not have at least one dress in the style of Christian Dior.
"Carnival night", or dress as an absolute symbol of femininity
How not to recall the young and unusually attractive Lyudmila Gurchenko in a New Look silhouette dress in the cult film by Eldar Ryazanov “ Carnival Night"? The film was released in 1956. One can hardly imagine the meeting of 2017 without this picture. However, we are unlikely to refuse from the dresses of the Diorov silhouette. A classic, appropriate in any situation, a symbol of femininity and elegance, a dress that creates an absolutely feminine figure.
“As a matter of fact, everything that I know, see or hear, everything in my existence turns into dresses. Dresses are my tamed chimeras, descended from the world of visions to the ordinary world, ”Christian Dior writes in his memoirs. He will create many different dresses, but all of them will be united by one thing - respect for a woman and admiration for her beauty.
Jacket le Bar
The unique jacket was presented to the public in 1947 in the same New Look collection. Today, his paraphrase is a must-have for everyone. modern wardrobe as he creates a special architecture of the female body, constructs flawless feminine lines. The peplum jacket fits perfectly on any figure: it makes narrow hips visually fuller, the waist - thinner, and "rich" hips - slimmer.
In general, the artist designed clothes according to all laws. visual perception, used visual illusions that are so successfully used today the best stylists the world. Like Pygmalion, Dior sculpted his Galatea, like Michelangelo, he cut off everything that interferes with an impeccable female silhouette... The maestro himself suggested wearing a jacket with a fluffy skirt or a midi-length pencil skirt. but modern tendencies offer a lot more variations. Suffice it to recall the famous debut collection of haute couture by Raf Simons for the House of Dior, presented in the Rodin Museum, the walls of which were completely decorated with fresh flowers. Roses, orchids, lilies were designed to separate different rooms, create a wonderful sensual solemn atmosphere, and also scent ... scent ... scent a few blocks away and give the collection its own unique scent in every sense. And in all this splendor, beautiful fairies paraded in trousers and legendary jackets in a modern way.
Fluffy skirt
The fuller the skirt, the slimmer waist and sleeker than the ankle. This is another trick visual correction figures. Did the great couturier think about it? Hard to say. However, it is clear that Christian Dior loved, admired and cared for the female body.
Is it relevant today fluffy skirt? A question that does not require an answer even for a person who is far from the world of fashion. Today it is worn with shirts, denim jackets, T-shirts, sweaters and leather jackets.
Pencil skirt
From my rich television and stylistic experience, I dare say that this legendary item female wardrobe is one of the most beloved and understandable for men. Comments are superfluous here, the pencil skirt speaks for itself, little, but to the point.
Pea pattern
This cute drawing appeared long before Christian Dior entered the world of fashion. However, it was Dior who popularized the Dots pattern, or in English version"Polka dot", making it a universally recognized classic of the 50s. The master dedicated his 1954 collection of dresses to the polka dot. With his light hand, peas swept the whole world, from American stars to housewives and even Soviet women.
Today it is still a mistake to believe that the "pea" pattern is an eternal classic, and therefore suits absolutely everyone. This is undoubtedly a classic of the genre. However, for peas (not passionate Spanish, not fatal) you need a very special, light, romantic mood and the same facial expression. However, for the fatal Flamenco peas, a certain facial expression is also necessary. One way or another, heeding the advice of a fashion genius is definitely worth it: an elegant blouse in the color of coffee with milk with chocolate peas will become an excellent wardrobe base for many women.
High heel pumps
As with polka dots, Dior did not create pumps. He just introduced them into fashion back in 1947, and since then they feel great in the wardrobes of millions of women. Today it is not even possible that they might ever go out of style.
Lily of the valley and costume jewelry
God is in the details. And the fashion genius Dior understood this perfectly. He created a large-scale production of shoes, gloves, hats, belts, stockings and jewelry, and in different parts of the world, thanks to the fact that he was the first to introduce a licensing agreement. He also introduced costume jewelry into fashion, the most famous of which was the lily of the valley brooch. It was Christian Dior's favorite flower. He became central figure one of the brightest collections master of the same name.
According to fashion historians, Christian was extremely superstitious. He believed that the lily of the valley brought him good luck, as it was his amulet. It is believed that on the eve of the show, the master sewed sprigs of lily of the valley into the folds of dresses. A little later, lily of the valley will begin to solo in the Diorissimo perfume. In general, Dior's perfumery heritage is so great that it is worthy of a separate column. However, it is simply impossible not to recall the iconic scent of the House of Miss Dior within the framework of this material.
Scent of a woman
Already at the beginning of his career, Christian Dior opens his own perfume company, headed by his childhood friend Eftler Luis. “A perfume that smells of love” is the main concept of the legendary Miss Dior fragrance. The couturier dedicates the first fragrance to her sister Catherine, who is Miss Dior. Chypre, with a touch of floral and woody notes very feminine and very elegant, it appeared in the fateful year 1947 for Dior and became a luxurious addition to the New Look woman's image. The trail of the legendary perfume does not lose its current sound even today, acquiring new notes from year to year, but at the same time keeping love in the heart of the composition.
Black patent belt that emphasizes the waist
Whether narrow or wide, accentuating the accentuated thin waist, the black lacquered belt has become another characteristic graceful touch in Christian Dior's stylish handwriting. Today it is difficult to imagine an elegant wardrobe without this accessory. Putting it on over a white shirt, jacket, sweater, dress and even a coat, and possibly a fur coat, the image instantly becomes attractive and chic.
Today, Dior Fashion House is undergoing another interpretation of the great heritage of the couturier. And although the world catwalks are dominated by sport chic, flower theme in the form of petals, hints, ghosts and smells does not leave the collection of the legendary House.
Elena Mareeva, TV producer, fashion and style expert, www.mareevastyle.com
Founder of the Elena Mareeva School of Style, a successful blogger, stylist, an expert in the field of personal style, self-presentation, the ability to manage impressions, secular and business communication, male suit, fashion trends... 15 years of work on TV. For the last 8 years, she has devoted herself to the talk show " Fashionable verdict". As a creative producer of the project, she was responsible for the program, its quality, concept, ratings, innovations, image and transformation of heroes.
Photo: Getty Images, press archives
He is considered a genius from the fashion world. One of the most influential fashion designers 20th century Christian Dior achieved success only at the age of 42, becoming the author of the style. He was famous fine understanding feminine nature and tried to emphasize feminine beauty with his outfits. Today is 60 years since the day the fashion designer passed away. On this occasion, we recall the most apt statements Diora.
About women
Women are most attractive between the ages of thirty-five and forty. And since few women get past their 40s, the peak of attractiveness can last forever.
Perfume speaks about a woman more than her handwriting.
My dream is to save women from nature.
Throughout their lives, women must remember: each piece eaten remains in the mouth for two minutes, two hours in the stomach, and two months on the hips.
About style
Fashion is fashion, but there is a category of women who, even lagging behind fashion, evoke affection, because they dress the way they dressed when they were happy. True, such a quirk can only be excused by gray hair.
I believe that the ball gown is the same required element women's wardrobe as a suit. It cheers up.
The ability to dress is based on three whales - simplicity, good taste and the habit of taking care of yourself - and it's not expensive at all.
It's always worth highlighting your own best features... As a matter of fact, fashion is doing this - it enhances and emphasizes female beauty.
About elegance
Elegant woman- not one that blindly follows fashion. If new trends don't suit you, ignore them.
Elegance lies in grooming. The most best clothes, the most expensive jewelry and cosmetics are worth nothing if you don't look after yourself.
Elegance is always simplicity.
Many women think that shoes are not that important, but the real proof of a lady's elegance is what is worn on her feet.
About beauty
There is nothing more beautiful gray hair... By the time the hair begins to silver, the woman acquires a certain special charm, dignity and grace. From now on, her style is soft and feminine. No rigor and no masculine elements.
Beauty without originality is not pleasing to the eye.
About fashion
My dresses are ephemeral pieces of architecture designed to glorify the proportions of the female body.
There are only two in the fashion world age categories- girls and women.
Fashion lives its own special life, according to its own laws, which are not subject to other laws.
My dresses are my life, the way I live every day: with its feelings, splashes, tenderness and joy.
Dior worked in the distant 50s, but his advice is still relevant today. The master made a small revolution: he returned elegance to women after the difficult war years and gave the world a style according to which it continues to exist today.
Introducing Christian Dior's lessons that formed the basis classic rules style.
"Elegance is always simplicity."
“I am against overly fantasy models that are created purely for the sake of attracting the attention of the public. They may be entertaining, but there is no smell of elegance here. Beauty can be a little daring, but if boldness turns into loudness, it’s already bad taste. ”"Quality is the basis of style."
"You buy ready-made clothes or sewing, choose the highest quality material as far as your budget allows. It is better to have one good, sturdy dress than two bad ones. "“The ability to dress is based on three whales - simplicity, good taste and the habit of taking care of yourself - and it's not expensive at all.”
An elegant woman is not one who blindly follows fashion. If new trends don't suit you, ignore them.
"Accessories are our everything."
Good in appearance dressed woman extremely important role play accessories. The less you allow yourself to spend on dresses, the more thoughtful about the choice of accessories. Complementing the same dress with different accessories, you can easily change the image.“Pink is gentle. And gray is not boring. "
Dior had two favorite colors - gray and pink. Something pink in a wardrobe is good for everyone. This is the color of happiness and femininity. But if pink is more elegant, then gray is absolutely universal. If you want to hide some parts of the figure, choose more dark shades, if, on the contrary, emphasize, wear lighter ones."Lingerie is a guarantee of self-confidence, and without it you cannot be elegant."
"Everything should be elegant, especially what is not on display." Your laundry needs superior quality. V in this case extremely important psychological factor... You will not be able to feel confident in yourself luxurious dress, realizing that underneath it is far from such luxurious linen. Beautiful underwear is the basis of high style. ""Flowers are the most beautiful gift of God to the world after a woman."
“A flower on a belt, in a buttonhole or in a neckline - and now everyone around is already having a holiday. I'm not talking about floral patterns, without which I simply cannot imagine any of my collections ”.
"Too much attention to shoes does not happen!"
“Many people think that shoes are not that important, but the real proof of a girl’s elegance is what is on her feet.”"If you have crooked legs, wear a deep neckline."
It's always worth highlighting your best features. Study yourself. Try to understand what suits you and what doesn't. Understand your needs. Find shades and patterns that compliment your beauty. And most importantly, "beauty without originality is not pleasing to the eye."
"My dream is to save women from nature."
"Women are most attractive between the ages of 35 and 40. And since very few women get past their 40s, the peak of attractiveness can last forever.""Perfume can tell more about a woman than her handwriting."
"Perfume is an unsurpassed shade of feminine personality, this is the final touch of the image.""You dream of a ball gown, and men dream of a woman in a ball gown ..."
An elegant toilet cheers you up better than any champagne. In it you become feminine, sensual and gentle, graceful.
"Individuality and eccentricity are different concepts."
Avoid absurdities. The absurdity in terms of style is enormous. straw hat combined with a raincoat. Cloak on evening dress. Sport shoes with a cocktail dress. High heels and sweatpants... Velvet in late spring. Lace with tweed. Too often women forget that the most extravagant look must be thought out. Fantasy models may be entertaining, but there is no smell of elegance here."Each piece eaten stays in the mouth for two minutes, two hours in the stomach and two months on the hips."
"My outfits are my life, the way I live every day: with its feelings, splashes, tenderness and joy."
Dior talked about inextricable link how you live and how you look. In his time, women had to do a lot male work... It was very difficult at the same time to remain fragile and serene. Christian believed in luck and always advised to rely on a lucky star, because everyone has one.
More than six decades have passed since the revolutionary New Look style, invented by Christian Dior, conquered overnight the hearts of millions of women around the world and created the standard female beauty: wasp waist, like a blossoming bud, high bust. Everything! Three simple rules... It is not surprising that the combination of the three principles of NewLook is still synonymous with feminine beauty. We will tell you how to achieve the standard beauty in your everyday look.
The Dior Revolution
The show of the first collection of Kristan Dior in 1947 produced the effect of a bomb exploding in the fashion world on both sides of the Atlantic Ocean: both in Europe and in America. The dark period of war, restrictions and uniforms was over, and it was Dior who proclaimed the style of the new woman: light, graceful, feminine.
The new style was immediately named NewLook. Seeing thin waists at the show, voluminous skirts and an accentuated bust, Chief Editor American Harper'sBazaar Carmel Snow exclaimed: "My dear Christian, your dresses are something completely new, a real new look!"
This phrase was heard by the correspondent of the Reuters news agency. Now he would send a message to the editor in whatsup, and then he simply wrote this phrase on a piece of paper and threw it from the balcony to the courier.
It was February 12, 1947. On that day, the whole world recognized the image of a completely new woman, the New Look style and Christian Dior himself. And the fashion revolution began ...
New Look principles
Fragile, weightless and extremely feminine, new woman Dior is opposed to the hardy toiler, on whose shoulders rests the rear of the harsh time of war.Its silhouette is shaped by supportive underwear that creates thin waist and high chest... Skirts with "wonderful folds" that bloom like fabulous flowers, and with a rounded peplum give the silhouette the shape of the number 8. The length of the skirt is thought out in such a way that delicate female ankles appeared in all their beauty. On the feet are graceful, pointed-toed shoes, not at all those cobblestones with wide square toes that were in vogue at the time. And on the head is an elegant hat.
This image was born to Christian Dior at the time of observing women during the First World War. Looking how women are waiting for the next issue of a fashion magazine and how they are inspired, turning the pages, by the dream of lightness, beauty and love, he carefully cherished it in his soul. Then I started sketching. Then Dior created a suitable dummy: he took a chisel and a hammer, and hewed tailor's mannequin with architectural precision, creating a silhouette that will become synonymous with poetry and femininity. “I wanted my dresses to be geometrically“ lined up ”, to fit the lines of a woman’s body, and to stylistically shape the silhouette. I emphasized the waist, hips, bust. To give the contours more rigidity, I knocked out almost all fabrics with percale or taffeta, reviving a long time ago forgotten tradition", - later wrote the couturier in his memoirs.
Christian Dior's New Look Revolution has opened a new page in fashion, in as soon as possible changing the consciousness of the trendsetters of the style of those times. Several dozen dresses in the New Look style were immediately bought by Marlene Dietrich, who had remained faithful before men's style and trouser suits from Coco Chanel. Princess Margaret Rose of Great Britain, younger sister of Elizabeth II, commissioned a dress from the newly famous Dior for her appearance at the Cercle de lUnion ball in Paris.
French actress Genevieve Page opened the French Film Festival in London in a satin white Christan Dior dress. A famous model Denis Cook, the muse of Yves Saint Laurent, gave her heart to Dior forever, becoming the symbol of a new city woman in a belted cloak, scarf and glasses from Christian Dior. But ordinary women did not stand aside either: inspired by Marlene Dietrich's photo shoot in Elle magazine and the cover of the L'Aurore newspaper, in which three women tear apart a coveted New Look dress, the townspeople began to work wonders with their sewing machines... Honing the skill they had acquired during the war to sew themselves together, they were already inspired by the delightful pieces of Dior. Everyone was crazy about the new style, which later Christian Dior would call a return to the ideal of civilized happiness.How to create a New Look wardrobe?
1. Get some shapewear. Support panties with high rise should keep the hips in good shape, and create the effect of a wasp waist. A corrective bra should provide support for your breasts.
2. Think over your perfect skirt: a wide belt that fixes a thin waist should provide ideal folds descending from it. Do not skimp on matter, think of the folds in such a way that they create the effect of a blossoming bud.
3. Get pointed shoes to match the skirt (in the original Dior collection both the skirt and shoes are black). You can't skimp on shoes, so maybe it's worth investing in Dior shoes once?
4. Standing in your shoes in front of the mirror, measure the ideal length of your skirt, which will present your feet at the most favorable light... It can be knee-length, just below the knee, mid-calf, or ankle length.
5. Buy a fluffy pleated skirt.
6. Sew a narrow, skinny silhouette jacket cream color on the patterns of the famous Dior jacket Bar. In the original collection, it is made of silk and has rounded basques.
7. Top with a raincoat or trench coat of cream and sand color with broad shoulders and a skirt in the shape of an inverted V. wasp waist.
8. If you wish, complete the look with accessories: a hat or a scarf on your head, wide glasses Dior, Dior handbag, neckerchief.
Photo: dior.com
Mitza Bricar is the soul of Dior. An elegant lover of furs and leopard prints, she was Christian Dior's muse and close friend. He saw in her the very "ideal woman": a refined, graceful female representative, which is characterized by Parisian chic and aristocratic features. From the very beginning, she worked as the chief stylist and accessories specialist at the fashion house. Mitza was a big fan of Christian's talent and was happy to show off his outfits. She became the very first woman in Paris who was not afraid to put on several items of clothing with leopard print. Inspired by her boldness, Dior created an entire collection with a predatory print. But Christian wasn't the only one who admired her. The Fashion House still continues to produce jewelry, cosmetics and body care products in honor of Mitza Bricar.
Marlene Dietrich
German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich long time adhered to the masculine style set by Coco Chanel. But with increasing popularity feminine images from Dior, she decided to change her wardrobe. As a result, the collaboration between Dietrich and Dior was seen by millions: during the filming of Alfred Hitchcock's film "Stage Fear", Marlene had a disagreement with the director, on which the actress put the condition "No Dior, no Dietrich." After filming, Christian donated all the costumes she wore to Marlene in everyday life.
Popular
Monica Bellucci
Before becoming the permanent muse of the duo Dolce & Gabbana, Italian actress Monica Bellucci appeared frequently in beautiful Dior campaigns. It all started in the 1990s, when the actress was invited to become the face of one of the makeup collections. After that, there were many models and actresses in advertising for the fashion house, until in 2006 Bellucci was offered to star in an advertising campaign. Rouge lipstick Dior. The rich red lipstick looked gorgeous on the Italian star, who at the time of filming was already 40 years old. In addition to the legendary lipstick, the actress presented a line of bags, other makeup products and one of the most legendary fragrances of the fashion house Poison. The collaboration between Dior and Monica Bellucci lasted until 2009.
Charlize Theron
In 2005, Oscar-winning actress Charlize Theron was invited for an advertising campaign for one of the main fragrances Dior J'adore. After the first commercial, in which she was completely naked, the sales of the fragrance skyrocketed. Subsequent advertising campaigns by J'adore, along with Charlize, only strengthened the popularity of the perfume. In the video, where Theron rips off jewelry and a dress, John Galliano played an important role - he not only forced her to do all this, but also turned the figure of the actress into a prototype of the famous bottle, chaining her neck in gold jewelry. In addition to perfume, Charlize also represented the Dior watch line. But the latest ad campaign for this fragrance, along with Charlize, has become one of the most popular. In addition to Theron, Merlin Monroe, Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly, who at one time were also the muses of the House of Dior, were "resurrected" for the video.
Natalie Portman
Natalie Portman got into advertising campaigns for the House of Dior during the reign of John Galliano. The actress presented the Cherie fragrance from the Miss Dior perfume line. After the scandalous departure of the couturier, the actress resumed cooperation with fashion brand... Since then, she has promoted the make-up line, the Diorskin skincare line, replaced Monica Bellucci in Rouge Dior campaigns and continues to star in amazing commercials for Miss Dior fragrances.
Marion Cotillard
Marion Cotillard is the only French ambassador for Christian Dior since 2008. And she really can be considered as such: advertising campaigns for Lady Dior bags with her participation have traveled many cities. Filming took place in Paris, London, Moscow, Shanghai and Los Angeles. Each advertising campaign during all five years of cooperation between the actress and the fashion house is unique: they carry all that sophistication and elegance that were so loved by Christian Dior himself.