What tools are needed to work with the cloth. What you need to start sewing. Sewing Tools
In order to understand what professional dressmakers say, we recommend that you explore a dictionary of sewing terms. We tried not only to interpret the most common of sewing terms, but also clearly demonstrate how this or that sewing operation is performed.
A very open prummise is modeled by reducing the length of the shoulder. It is often used in summer dresses, blouses, vests.
Sewing tool for fastening in the form of a twisted wire with an acute end, locking inside.
Volan, carved on a slash, sews along the waist of dresses or blouses, is also applied in female jackets and jackets.
Detail for finishing clothes in the form of a strip of material connected to a product (part) for two longitudinal sides. it happens different color And is usually used to handle bumps of seams and finishing products.
The shaped, as a rule, a metal sleeve designed to harden the edges of the holes of leather goods, sewing and shoe products (sewing fittings - the alphabet of sewing).
Carry out product details
Carry out the details of the sewing product according to the outlined circuits, with add-ons for the seams. As a rule, the additions are at the edges of the product - 1.5 cm, at the bottom - 4 cm.
Verify the details of the product (sometimes - clean it
Temporary thread fixing the edges of parts to save the shape with a turnock of the seam on the inner side of the product. It is used in the treatment of the neck, the trick of the dress, the valves of the pockets of the jacket, belts, etc.
How to perform:
Details stack, unscrew on facial, seam to focus on the wrong side of the product (Fig. 2). With the help of stitches, fasten the parts (Fig. 3-4). Put the parts, remove the backbone (Fig. 5). Fig. 6 - ready-made type of product with invalid and face.
A product that has enlarged onto the width of the fastener and one row of buttons on both sides.
Decorate the product with any sewing accessories - rhinestones, beack, buttons, embroidery, etc.
Fuel thread
This is the filament of the fabric bases. The transverse thread is called ducks.
Laying the material into freely lying or falling soft folds with their subsequent fixing.
Duplication of parts
Connection on the surface of two or more parts by gluing with iron -
Cutting Clearance Cutting Details
Scroll of cutting details for drying it from squeezing.
Smell
Sunset of one floor of clothes to another. Usually applied when sewing skirts and dresses cutting along the waist.
Element of decoration of dresses, shirts, blouses. To do this, there are lines for hopes on the tissue, in this place, the fabric is with an invalid to the wrong side and the line is laid exactly to the edge of the fold. It turns out a kind of rutter. Another option is the line - a lines of a double needle on a flat laid out fabric with a lining under the cloth with an invalible side of a thin lace. In this case, the lace will take off the inside due to the zigzag lines, and volume will appear on the front side between two lines.
Stitching Schaw.
Standardized, technological term denoting the layout of the line (usually from the wrong side) to secure the adjacent edge of the part or products, folds, extracts, hopes, etc.
Schu root
The technological term denoting the laying of feeding of the tissue on the seam, the fold or the adjustable edge of the part to one side and consolidate them in this position using the iron.
Excanion
Coverage, internal (or lower), non-personal side of clothing, fabrics, etc.
Border
Color strip, framing the edges of any product, for example, shawl, nose dresses, etc.
Cant
Narrow color strip, Floor around the edge or seam of clothing. It is exhibited by oblique filament of the tissue, is sewn to the product so that the protruding width of Kant does not exceed 2-3 mm. Sometimes the lace will pull it into it. Used to finish blouses, dresses, uniforms.
Valve
Pocket detail, which is an element decorative decoration Products, which, as a rule, is sewn into the incision of the pocket under the lifting. Usually applied when sewing jackets, coat.
Glue edge
A narrow strip of 6 to 14 mm wide, which is obtained when cutting the edge tissue on a roll-cutting machine. It is used to launch inboard, at the bottom, the armor, the slide and in other places and the details of the clothing for prevention from stretching.
Detail of the top of the passage, back, sleeves, as well as skirts and trousers.
Croa
Details of the products and their parts resulting from cutting (sewing terms - sewing alphabet).
Textile clashes, one side of which has mini-hooks, and the second is durable. Used in the production of jackets, bags, shoes.
Part female dresscovering breasts and back.
Maxi-Skirt
Expanded Skirt Book, reaching ankle or floor.
Sailor collar
Removable postponed blue collar with white stripes.
Hungry
The technological term denoting the temporary connection of parts when they are superimposed by one on the other and laying connecting stitches according to the intended lines. Washing can be performed manually or on a special machine.
Thicks
Twisted products produced from cotton, linen, woolen yarn, natural silk, chemical fibers and threads. Twisting ends of yarn or threads are made on the tweeters and can be performed in three, six, nine and twelve addiction (ends). Threads are divided into classes - sewing, knitting, etc.; in color: white, black and colored, with matte and glossy finishes, as well as undemanded - severe. Depending on the thickness of the thread divide on the trading numbers: the thinner of the thread, the higher their number (for example, cotton threads have numbers from 80 to 10). The thickness characteristic is a linear density in texes.
Changing details
Details processing Details for squeaming protection. Usually performed on overlock or seam Zig-knocked.
Obtachka
Detail of the sewing product for cutting cuts (for example, pockets of pockets or the neck of the dress); For the garment take the main material and duplicate it thermotalkan. The width of the sheets, as a rule, is 3-4 cm.
Girth
The perimeter of any part of the human body measured using a flexible centimeter tape. Girths - the dimensional characteristic of the human body, which is used to design clothes. Girths are measured in transverse planes, with measurements, the centimeter tape should fit tightly to the body without deforming it.
Overlock
Entrontation of database points
SCREEN PROCESSING OF THE DETAILS OF THE SPECIAL TABLE FOR DECISIONS OR SWORD WITH CONSTRUCTION.
Celete collar
The flexing part of the collar is sewn into the collar-rack.
Earbing a sewing product
Processing the product with a ferry with an iron or steam generator.
Basis and ducks
Two filament systems forming fabric. The base is the threads located in parallel to each other and walking along the fabric. Ducks - threads located perpendicular to the basis. As a result of the consistent weave of the filaments of the base and duck on weaving machine Fabric is produced. The base before weaving is subjected to a slotting - additional treatment with adhesive substances to give it greigh and increase strength.
Slow product detail (on the edge)
Pour the machine line along the edge of the product, pre-vetting the items.
How to perform:
Details Shot along the edge, remove the backbone, paste. Fig. 2 - Strit from the front side.
Plane
Detail of the sewing product in the form of a strip of material for processing and decorative decoration of the fastener.
Pogon
Detail of the sewing product, sewn into the shoulder products for its decorative design.
Lining
Detail or assembly of the sewing product for the occupancy of the Pon. Applied on coats, jackets, burlap pockets, male trousers etc.
Polo
Sports shirt, T-shirt, T-shirt, with a soft collar and a fastener until the middle of the chest, it happens like long and short-sleeved.
Picky
Temporary threaded connection of small details of the sewing product with large. Take the pockets, coquettes, bumps, etc.
Fitting
Threaded connection of small parts with large sewing machines.
Running seam
Reducing the thickness of the seam, folding or edge of the part by means of iron and thermal processing.
Payment of product details
Reducing the dimensional signs of the length of the product by saving along the edge, tightening the lower threads and wet weems. Usually - Pokat sleeves are charged.
Seams having a connecting and decorative value, made with remotes and without them. May be removed with a decorative line. Apply when sewing jackets, blouses, dresses, leather products, etc.
Quilling
The strip of the fabric, carved in oblique or transverse thread, in the middle of the assembly collected or laid in the fold. It is used when finishing dresses, blouses, etc.
Smoothing details
Temporary threaded connection of two or more details of the sewing product.
Starting details
Threaded connection of sewing parts on a sewing machine at combined edges.
Collar stand
The vertically located part of the collar, usually height from 2.5 to 4 cm, is sewn into the neck of the product.
Rhinestone
Artificial gem. It is used to decorate the upper clothes by sewing and gluing the iron.
Type of fine braid serving for finishing clothes. Released different flowers. It is used when finishing dresses, tuns, belts, etc.
Ducks
Threads located perpendicular to the basis (share thread).
Furnitura
Auxiliary materials for sewing. Usually - the concept of sewing fittings is used. Includes buttons, buttons, hooks, blocks, buckles, zippers, textile fasteners, buckles for belts.
Shleck
Detail designed to make it in her and holding another detail, usually belt, vigories, etc.
You yourself make sure you need to have home sewing, and not only if you are a beginner seamstress.
So, the following items will be required:
- needles manual and sewing various sizes;
- pins;
- threads of various colors and numbers;
- thimble;
- peg;
- portnovo chalk;
- cutters: stupid and toothed to apply copying lines (preferably);
- scissors: Large portno, medium size, small scissors for cutting loops;
- dispenser;
- cutting board;
- measuring tape (centimeter);
- wooden line of 1 m long, carbon;
- fitting devices;
- buttons, hooks, buttons;
- tape finishing, bay and contact tape Velcro;
- patterns;
- gasket material;
- mannequin (if there is such an opportunity);
- a large mirror;
- sewing machine.
Needles
The needles, both machines and manual sewing, are made of high-quality polished steel. The needles for manual sewing are of different sizes and shape that depends on the destination. So, hand needles are middle length, short and long, there are special embroidery needles with a big ear of different sizes and different thicknesses.
Standard machine needles are suitable for different sewing machine models. As a rule, machine needles have the same length, but differ in thickness. You need to choose a machine needle depending on the fabric, also the fabric and the needle must match the number of the thread. For example, for very thin tissues, such as Muslin, chiffon, marquiset, need to choose a needle number 70 and cotton threads No. 60-80 or silk threads No. 75-85. For such fabrics, like a batter, crepe-gear, slim Shelk, Atlas, perfectly suitable needles number 80 and cotton threads No. 70-80 or silk threads No. 65-75. For silk fabrics, Poplin, Satina, thin woolen and cotton fabrics, needles number 90 and cotton threads No. 50-70 or silk threads No. 60 65 should be chosen.
Woolen dresses and thin costume fabrics, dense flush, thin cloak cotton fabrics sew the machine needle number 100 and cotton threads No. 40-70 or silk threads No. 60. Thick costume and dresses, thin natural and artificial skin They sew the machine needle No. 110 and cotton threads No. 30-50 or silk threads No. 50. Thick cloak and pic tissues sew the machine needle No. 120 and cotton threads No. 20-30 or silk threads No. 40.
Pins
Pins are needed for fastening parts before action or when translating lines from one part to another, as well as when transferring patterns to the fabric, with refinement of relief lines at fitting.
With the help of a magnet, you can collect the pins falling on the floor, for this you need to bind it to the rope. Without leaving, swipe the magnet over the floor and collect all the fallen pins.
Pins should be smooth, thin and sharp. All rusty, curved or blunt pins need to be left immediately, as they can ruin fabric. You can store pins in a special pillow for needles, which should be attached to the bracelet and, while working on your hand, which will allow your hands to stay free. Also pins can be kept in a box with a magnet that will attract them, and the pins are not lost.
Thicks
Threads are cotton, silk, synthetic. Cotton threads can be sewed cotton, wool e silk fabrics.
The first came up with the woven cotton threads nor bobbins and bobbins American Mrs. Samuel Slater.
Silk threads will be useful when working with silk and woolen walls, also firing fetters well. Synthetic fabrics is better to sew threads of the same composition.
The color of the threads should be chosen into tone of the fabric or contrast depending on the destination.
Threads are very convenient to store in boxes with special cells or teres for each coil of threads.
Thimble
The lock is needed in order to protect the finger from the needle when sewing manually. It should be put on middle finger working hand. On the push, there are small recesses that are located in a checker order, they are not allowed to slip with a needle.
If you can't get used to work with a push, put it on your finger in the evening and leave for the whole night. After that, the cloth will not interfere with you when working.
Screw to pick up the size of the middle finger, it should not be overcooked.
Peg
With the help of the kolybie, the corners of the collars, sides, loops remove the threads. The peg can be made of wood, metal.
This is a round long, about 10 cm, a stick with a diameter of about 0.7 cm, sharp from one end.
Portnovsky chalk
Portnovsky shallow apply the necessary lines and signs with stripping and fitting. It is released in the form of small rectangles of blue, white and red. Also on sale there are special chalk holders with which you can swap chalk. Mel must be sharpened from time to time so that all the lines are fine. You cut the parts with a string should be on the inside of the line.
Instead of Portnovsky, it is possible to use a thinly sharpened piece of soap or ordinary school chalk.
Cutters
The cutters are needed to transfer the contour of parts with paper on the fabric or paper on paper. There are several types of cutters.
A blunt cutter tolerate the contours of the details and line of folds, reliefs, extracts with paper on the fabric. They spend on the lines of patterns and a solid line remains on the fabric.
The contours of the details and lines of pockets, extachuches, folds from paper on paper, with tissue on paper are transferred to the gear cutter. Should be held by the right lines A gear cutter and on paper will remain a track in the form of points.
Scissors
Scissors must choose high-quality. Blades should cut along the entire length and close without a sharp sound.
Blades of cutting scissors must be at least 20-25 cm long, and the bottom blade is parallel to the surface of the table. Rings on the handles of scissors should be of different size and shape: large oval for index and middle fingers and a small round for thumb.
There is also electrical scissors that can easily cut the tissue of any thickness - from thin tightness to thick fingertips.
There are scissors with gear blades, which are treated with cuts, protecting them from sprinkling. Circling with such scissors can not. Punches need to be cut only after the stratification. If such scissors have pricked teeth, then the cut will be zigzag, if rounded teeth are cut with rounded protrusions in the form of petals.
The usual medium scissors with rings on the handles are needed to cut the allowances. Big cutout scissors are inconvenient.
You can cut the loops with small scissors, but more convenient to do it special scissors For crossing the loops, since such scissors in the center of one blade there is a small exhaust, which limits the length of the loop cut.
Spindle
The dispenser is very convenient to break the seams, straighten the corners. You can also cut through the loop. It is completely safe, since the cutting edge is in the excavation between the two protrusions and is protected from the short protrusion of a small ball at its end.
Board for cutting
The cutting board allows you to put fabric and patterns absolutely exactly, prevent breaks. The board can be put on the table or bed, it will protect the tabletop from scratches.
The cutting board can be made foldable from a piece of plywood 100 x 180 cm. Its surface must be coated with a large-scale grid of 1 x 1 cm, which can be done using a narrow to watering tape or paint.
The fabric on the cutting board must be split in such a way that the edge is located exactly along its long edge, and the duck thread lay parallel to the grid lines.
Measuring tape (centimeter)
Measuring tape remove the measurements from the figure and measure the fabric and product details. The measuring tape is a soft rubberized tape on which divisions are applied through each millimeter.
When buying a measuring tape, check that the division scale begins on both sides, it is more convenient to use such a ribbon than a ribbon that has one division scale. Also, the centimeter tape should not spin and stretch.
Some dressmakers instead of measuring tape use roulette, which is not very convenient when removing the measure with a person.
Remember that with the time of the tape can be stretched, so it should be checked periodically. When working on one product, only one measuring tape should be used to avoid measurement inaccuracies.
Rulers and squares
The rules and squares are needed when building the pattern of the product and with stripping fabric. With the help of a coal line and a rectangular template, a pattern of 10 per 40 cm can be built direct angles and postpone the exact distances from the edge of the tissue to the edge of the part, it is also possible to check the direction of the equity thread, outline the folds, check the size of the pattern and make much more.
Fitting devices
In order to get excellent results from its work, it is necessary to affect the product in the sewing process. To do this, it is necessary to have appropriate equipment.
Ironing board plays an important role in the sewing process. You can set ironing board At one level, with a sewing machine next to it, in this case you can smooth out the seams, without getting out of the chair, shifting the product from one table to another.
Iron It is advisable to have with a sweeping function, as it, thanks to the built-in button to supply a pair, makes it possible to do without a lap.
Perethevyvnik - This is a special cut of the fabric from gauze or other type of fabric, which is put on the fabric before ironing. The path is needed in order not to damage the fabric when you state the product from the front side.
For thin tissues, you can take a gauze as a path. For thick fabrics, take a strife from thick fabric, which can hold a greater amount of moisture. For darous fabrics, you need to purchase a special brush, so that the pile does not be tortured when ironing. If there is no such possibility, you can take material with velvet or pile coating.
For the convenience of rooting various parts of the product there are ironing pads. A small oval pillow is designed for the rooting of the outstands and the fodder sleeves. A large oval pillow, one end of which is pointed, needed for the rooting of parts of the outerwear, such as lapels coats, collar, etc. The long narrow pillow is useful for the rooking of the slats of the clashes, embossed seams, sleeves.
To obtain the solid and thin edge of the collar or lapel, you should first treat it with steam, then grip severely with a heavy wooden block. A severe cold tree will serve as a press during the cooling.
For roaring clear lines, such as the shoulder lines, side seam and the inch sleeves, use a relief board, which, as a rule, has oval shape. On the one hand, this board has a removal with different ends, one of which has an oval shape, and the other is more acute form.
Buttons, hooks, buttons
Buttons are self of different shapes and size. Materials from which buttons make are very diverse - it is plastic, wood, metal, cloth, ivory, leather, pearls, amber, gems, ceramics, etc.
Buying buttons, you should find out if they do not hurt hot water. If so, then before washing the buttons should be a fracture.
In the time of Louis, the XIV buttons served as decoration of clothes and were inherited along with the names of the jewelry.
Sometimes buttons need to be covered with cloth. To do this, you need a button to wrap a piece of fabric and firmly sew the edges of the fabric on the bottom side of it with small stitches.
Buttons are all sorts of size, from the most tiny, serving an imperceptible neat clasp on summer dress or blouse, to gloves, which are almost impossible to tear off.
Buttons are two types: ordinary, round, and decorative different shapes and from different materials.
Hooks and hinges are also the most different shapes and sizes. Usually large hooks with hooks are used for fur coats. Smooth massive hooks are well suited for men's trousers.
Zippers are metal and plastic and have different lengths and color. They are suitable for any clothes. On the upper clothes or sports suit There should be either a metal zipper, or a tractor zipper with durable links. For dresses, skirts, blouses or trousers, zipper with plastic links is well suitable.
Tape Finishing, Beach and Contact Tape Velcro
Beika - This is a narrow band of the fabric, which more often lies in oblique, i.e., at an angle of 45 ° towards the equity thread.
Exist different kinds Tesma: Corsa Tape, which is strengthened by a slice of the waist on the skirts - trousers, elastic braid, presses the desired product item, the edge gasket for the manufacture of belts, the contact tape Velcro, on opposite sides which is. Male hooks and loops, when applied to each other, they are "sticking out", fastening the ends of the belt or the valve with pocket.
Corsa braid with fixed bends small folds It will help to make the same folds on the skirt. To do this, remove the adhesive tape that fastest folds of folds, and, by placing the brain, tape it on upper region skirts. Next, see once again, laying folds for bends on the braid.
Pattern
Patterns are more convenient to build on millimeter paper, all lines will be straight. If you decide to translate the pattern from the magazine for sewing, then first determine the size of your baby as accurately as possible. Then transfer all lines of patterns on the tracing, having imposed it on a sheet with patterns. Note that the patterns are often given by several sizes at once, which differ from each other types of lines. You should choose and translate the pattern of the size you need, paying attention only to the necessary lines.
Dummy
Mannequin is needed in order to check the correctness of the manufacture of the product during its sewing, clarification of the location of the seams, the correctness of the fitting of the product in finished video. Mannequin allows not to try the product to the baby during operation.
Mannequins are released different species. There are mannequins standard size, To fit that you can with the help of various linings, have hard mannequins, with adjustable height and girth hips, waist, chest.
Sewing machines
There is a huge number of different types of sewing machines. Most of the sewing household machines can be divided into three types:
- mechanical machines with manual or foot drive;
- electric sewing machines;
- computer control machines.
Unlike the sewing machines of the last century, modern sewing machines, except for the usual straight line, perform a variety of types of decorative lines.
When working on a sewing machine, you need to monitor the correct tension of the upper and lower threads, you also need to define correctly optimum length lines. Thin and medium tissue thickness have the medium stitches, dense and volumetric tissues should be made longer stitches. Little stitches are tightened with details that are exposed to strong tension, for example, the neck, the lower parts of the arm, the lasty and the seams of parts from the easily sprinkled tissues.
If you want to buy a sewing machine, choosing it, consider the following indicators: General specifications Models, assortment of decorative lines, simplicity of control.
While working on the typewriter, the product should be on the left side of the paw. It is necessary to ensure that the fabric does not hide during the execution of the line, otherwise the line will turn out to be uneven.
Even if you have the most common sewing machine, then with the help of various removable devices, you can even make the most difficult processing. Almost every sewing machine has several different paws. Get acquainted with the instructions for using removable devices and use various paws in your work.
If you want to handle sections in the same way as in the factory, you will have to purchase a special machine for treating cuts, which is called Overlock.
There are many different removable parts that can be bought in specialized stores. Here are some of them: a walking paw with a hinge device, which allows you to carry out parts on top of the pin; Foot for taking lightning and kant with one protrusion. There are several types of stirred paws and a cabinal foot for processing the product nise, there are also devices for processing folds and assemblies, narrow seam, for hinges, to perform a secret line and many other devices that facilitate the sewing process.
In order to start sewing, you need to have the most important thing, without which this enterprise is doomed to fail - a desire to learn! Everything else is gradually making it necessary, but about what is needed in order to make your first step in sewing, read further.
What should always have in the house who sews?
■ Scissors (
)
For cutting fabrics, you will need large, sharply sharpened scissors. Little scissors with pointed tips are ideal for circumcision threads. Zigzag blades should be needed to create sections on non-switching tissues that will not need to be requested.
■ Sewing needles
Ideal to have a set of needles of various thickness and length. The thinner the fabric, the thinner there should be a needle, and the shorter stitch, the shorter they take the needle. In the butt for the sewing machine, it is necessary to have in addition to the usual needles needles for jersey, for denim and microfiber tissues.
■ Magnetic pillow
Thin flowing fabrics usually strongly slide. Magnetic pads securely holds and does not damage. The top side of such a pad usually serves to storing the pin.
■ Copy wheel and portno chalk (
)
Accurate markup allows you to sew at home professional products. To make accurate marking, you need to copy wheel and tailor chalk. It is better to transfer marking better only on the wrong side of the fabric, since the chalk sometimes leaves ugly traces on the fabric.
■ Copy paper (
)
The contours of paper steels are easiest to translate to the cloth using a special copy paper and a copy wheel. About how it is done is described in detail in the instructions that are attached to the copy paper.
■ Line (
)
For convenient sewing, you will need both a flexible centimeter tape and a rigid line. To measure short segments, for example, the widths of the seams and letters on the bending, it is better to use a glass, plastic or wooden ruler. And to measure or measure longer lines and measurements, including properly removing the measurements from the figure, you will need a centimeter tape from fabric or soft plastic. The standard length of centimeter tape is 150 cm, it happens - 100 cm.
■ Thimble
To protect your fingertips, it is necessary when you sew the buttons, manually cross the thick fabrics or sections of several layers of fabric.
Tip: If you sew long needles, protect your fingers with a long thimble.
■ Pins (
)
Metallic or glass pins must necessarily be resistant to the iron and do not paint the cloth. Make sure that the pin is a high-quality tip, otherwise you can damage the fabric. In addition, you will need a safe pin to make the elastic ribbon in the skeleton.
■ Thicks
Synthetic threads are considered universal, they are suitable for tissue of any quality and sold all the colors. For decorative seams And embroidery there are special threads. Threads made of pure cotton, as a rule, natural colorThey are recommended to use only for desiccation.
Now about the details
Needles These are the main accessories for sewing. Therefore, it is always necessary to have a stock of needles for a sewing machine. Best acquire small setSo that for each tissue you can choose a suitable needle.
The kit includes needles with a conventional tip for all woven cloths thick from 60 (very thin) to 100 (thick). The thinner the fabric, the thinner choose the needle. In addition, the kit must be needles with round tips for jersey, elastic fabrics and pile of pile, needle with a triangular tip for thick skin, especially durable and sharp needle for denim fabrics. Useful also to have a set double needles With the usual and round tip. Important: Operate only needles with a tip without flaws. Bad needle spoils fabric. To check the quality of the needle, undergo it in thin tights. If the needle does when entering and displaying the needle, the quality is not good enough and it should be replaced.
Embroidery threads ( )
For embroidery on the car do not suit ordinary sewing threads. Special threads are used for machine embroidery, and some sewing machines work only with certain varieties of threads. For embroidery on the machine, metal, neon, glowing at night, multicolor and other threads can also be used. Embroidery from twisted multicolor threads look like natural fur.
Scissors
For cutting, you will need large, sharply sharpened. It is better to purchase special cutting scissors: their lower blade during cutting is always located flat, as a result, the fabric is not crushed.
Little scissors S. sharp tips We will need for all sewing work, in which it is inconvenient to use big scissors, for example, to circumcise the threads. In addition, paper scissors will be needed - for cutting paper cuttings. Note that high-quality paper cutting scissors can be fused. Practical assistant, but not mandatory - disparaging knife (breakout), as well as for cutting loops and performing other slots. Scissors with zigzag blades use when it is necessary to make sections on non-switching tissues. In this case, the allowances for the seams and edges can not be coated.
Attention: On patterns, the scissors denote the edge, which should be carved without drinks on the seams, as well as cuts or slits, such as inputs in pockets.
Adhesive gaskets
There are two main types of laying materials - and non-brass, various thicknesses and composition. In the patterns of Burda, glue gaskets are usually used, more comfortable in processing, from Freudenberg. In the sewing instructions, it is always indicated which thickness the gasket is required when sewing each model. If the selected fabric will differ from the recommended, then the gasket should be changed to more appropriate.
■ For dense cotton fabrics (sarza), for blouses, dresses and light jackets, it is better to take a preserving form, but at the same time a soft gasket, such as Flizelin H 200.
■ For very dense woolen or cotton fabrics (flannels, velor, denim) for trousers, jackets and coat will suit Fliseline G 405 or Fliselin H 410. The first flizelin brand is softer, and the fliesline H 410 has additional longitudinal stabilizing threads that are especially well preserved the product shape.
■ For dense, resistant boiling tissues (for example, for linen powders), it is better to take fliseline F 220 white colorResistant to boiling.
■ Flizelin Formsland - oblique beaker made of thin adhesive fliesline 2 cm wide. The chain seam at a distance of 4 mm from the edge of the beaks stabilizes its shape. The lining is ideal for fixing the shape of the neck and for working with parts, seeded at an angle of 45 °. Baika is very soft, perfectly fixes the form, but does not deprive the tissue of elasticity. The white color and color of graphite are manufactured and sold on meters in specialized stores.
■ Flizelin Zolufliz is a water-soluble flint felt designed for embroidery on thin or mesh tissues. Flizelin Zolufliz before starting work is imposed on or under the fabric. Upon completion of the embroidery, the product is placed in cold water Until the complete dissolution of phlizelin. Ironing Flizelin Zolufliz is a weakly heated iron without steam.
■ for embroidery on tissues with elestant fibers, knitted and knitted canvas Ideal focus fiber fixirshthicalflize. This gasket is affixed for 5 seconds (in the "Wool" mode), it does not last long and easily separates the fabric after completing the embroidery. Fliselin Fixirshtiliz is produced white and sold on meters in specialized stores.
■ Flizelin G 785 - Soft and lightweight bielastic thin gasket. It is used to duplicate collars and rubbing, as well as a shelves of jackets and a coat of light fabrics.
How to work with gasket materials
Details from the gasket are cut out with the same direction of the equity thread as the parts from the main fabric, and with the allowances for the seams. Details cut from the laying are afforded to parts cut from the main fabric from the wrong side. In order to avoid pumping fabric, the iron put on 1-2 plots on a short time, and then water the iron throughout the area of \u200b\u200bthe part for about 8 seconds. Running gasket, the part must be left in the unfolded form by about 20-30 minutes for cooling.During the rooting, it should be strictly observed to observe the recommended temperature and the aircraft time, pay attention to whether it is necessary to affect this gasket with moisturizing or without moisture. If you duplicate the cloth with a moisture with moisture, then the gasket must be fixed through the wet cotton fabric In the "Wool" mode for 10-12 seconds. ATTENTION: For duplication, it is impossible to use an iron with a steamotrier. With the method of oak lending without moisturizing, the iron put on a gasket in "Wool" or "Synthetic" mode and processed for 8 seconds.
It is necessary to ensure that the gasket does not protrude for cutting cuts. Otherwise, when the gasket is rooting, the adhesive track will remain on the substrate or on the ironing board and, with the subsequent rooting of the gasket, stains the working surface of the iron or will spoil the fabric fabric.
ATTENTION: Fully remove the adhesive layer of phlizelin from the surface of the fabric is almost impossible.
Products that are strengthened by Freudenberg gaskets, in the future you can safely wash and expose dry cleaning.Even when complying with all the rules of duplication with gasket top fabric may "behave" in an unexpected way, Therefore, it is better to perform a test duplication on an unnecessary flap of the tissue used. If you make sure the glue gasket is not suitable for your chosen fabric, use non-brace gaskets from the flue-line, and for transparent tissues - organza.
Sewing machine 
Since the invention of the first manual sewing machine in 1800, which could only perform direct (lowercase) stitches, sewing amateur techniques are constantly improving. Currently, you can purchase a sewing machine of the most different value and different complexity: From the car that performs only simple straight and zigzag stitches to machines managed by a computer, which, except for decorative and functional stitches, cohesive loops desired size And even perform the programmable embroidery or sewed buttons.
If you have a desire and ability to perform technically complex works, as well as to embroidery by car, it makes sense to acquire an expensive "sewing computer". For ordinary sewing work, a machine, which, besides a direct and zigzag stitch, performs several types of elastic stitches and coats the loops. In any case, when buying the work of the sewing machine should be checked, just like the car to make a trial trip. When checking, pay attention to the following:
■ How comfortable you work on the car
■ How well quality machine sews very thin and very thick fabrics
■ Beautifully cohesive loops
■ How convenient to get to the workshop on warranty repair.
Threads for sewing on the machine and sewing manually
Sewing threads of the most frequently used colors always need to be in stock. There are conventional sewing threads of pure silk, made of cotton and so-called universal threads of synthetic fibers (polyester). In addition, there are thicker threads for coating loops, sewing manually and for decorative syns, as well as very thin threads For machine embroidery and ducts, except for the thread for the desiccation and laying of sirov.
Overlock
For those who sew a lot is excellent supplement to the usual sewing machine. With the help of an overlock, it is not only perfect to spend the sections (as on professionally cross-shredded products), but also for one reception to perform seams, cut the battery on the seam and wipe it. The seams performed on Overlock are stretched, and therefore these cars are perfect for sewing elastic and tensile fabrics.
Anyone who wishes to master the sewing business at the amateur level must first of all acquire a master set of tools at hand. Among the subject matter there are, of course, needles, threads and scissors.
Do you know that the tools for sewing, type of needles, pins, were essential wedding dowry European Bride until the 17th century.
Sewing is a fundamental main process associated with embroidery, tapestry, Patchvork. Skill, which was transmitted from generation to generation, did not leave fashion and today. Conscious youth strive to implement interesting creative ideas to try on them.
For sewing, as for any craft, practice is required. But the models are gradually the complexity of execution and as practicing practices you go from one level of complexity to another. Many ladies agree that needlework relax and soothe.
True, if your sewing box is not equipped with the main tools, it will not be possible to relax. In the most responsible moment, you will have to search for a lot of time to spend a lot of time, trying to replace the missing something else, and then - to correct deficiencies.
So what is the sewing kit.
1. Scissors
Portnovsky scissors are the most important point in the list of gadgets for sewing. The means of essentially, along with threads and needles .. (Some clothing items do not require stitching, it is enough to cut the material). For scissors to serve you longer, use them only for cutting fabric. Not for paper, not for the kitchen, not for wire.
2. Zigzag scissors ("tobast")
These scissors with jar on the blades will be useful for cutting lining and low-swing tissue, so as not to coach the seams.
3. Spiritser seams
An indispensable thing for beginners (and not only) Shvent. Helps remove erroneous seams without damaging the fabric. It will also help if you need to alter the thing to another.
4. Needles different sizes
Sets with needles of different sizes can be found not only in stores for needlework, but also in the shops like "one thousand little things". Medium needles are suitable for almost any fabric. It is desirable that the holes for inventing the threads were more. In general, there is a rule - the thicker the fabric is the more needle.
5. Coils of thread
Threads do not happen much. It is advisable to take into account not only the color and tone of the threads, but also the thickness of the threads, as well as the composition. For sewing machines Sold mainly silk threads. They are stronger and more reliable than the cotton of the same thickness.
6. Dispressing Wheel
Before you start sewing, you need to cut the fabric. To transfer the pattern on the fabric, use various methods. Stroke, copier, as well as this gear wheel, which leaves the appropriate traces of contours on the fabric.
7. Measuring tape
This tape helps at the stage of determining the size of the pattern, the number of tissue, and subsequently - the limit length of things. And in general, very useful thing in the farm.
8. Pins
Before stitching parts, it is recommended to be pinned with pins. Sometimes it is simply necessary because the fabric during the crosslinking process can shift, made folds - to disperse. In addition, the pins are needed when you make a preliminary fitting things, customize the length and width of the product, lay out the molding.
9. Inevnitsa
Keep pin and needles in one place - very important. Lost needles can subsequently "find", dripping into someone's skin and even penetrating into the body.
10. Thrust
Thrust - metal appliances used by crosslinking thick materials. Help to pierce the cloth, leaving the intact finger. This thing must be useful to you.
Chalk helps to make various marks on the fabric, transfer patterns. It goes without saying, chalk fabrics are better than markers or copy paper - they are easier to wash off.
12. Machine needles
By analogy with a set of manual sewing needles, a sewing machine also requires a set of different-dimensional needles. Different fabric Requires needles of different thickness.
In addition to the tools that enter the sewing kit, you should also have an ironing board, and iron to smooth out fresh seams and bends. In addition, the road sewing set of needles and threads will not prevent. And, of course, magazines with patterns.
Translation and photos from Buzzle.com
I want to learn how to sew. Where to begin?
How to choose threads and sewing materials. Building patterns. How to perform a tissue.
Sewing basics.
To learn how to sew it is not so difficult, as it may seem a newcomer, that's just a lot of time, preferabity and willingness to start with Azov. As in any other form of needlework, it is impossible to immediately take for complex work. Of course, there are exceptions, but in most cases the unfinished thing goes on the mezzanine, the machine is covered with dust in the corner, and the desire to try to sew something again.
How to choose tools for sewing
Sewing machines were invented to simplify and accelerate the sewing process. In many homes, cars with manual or foot drive are still preserved, modern models Release exclusively with electrical drive. In addition, the advantage of modern sewing machines is also that they can perform a large number of Different seams, including knitted, sweeping loops. However, if you just start learning, you will be enough ordinary typewriter with a minimum of functions.
Be sure to purchase good scissors for cutting fabrics, as they will help you not only carefully carve out the details, but also to save strength and nerves. There is nothing worse than trying to cut the fabric by faded scissors! If you have tailor scissors, but over the years they fumbled, take them into the workshop and ask to sharpen.
The Portnovo meter is another tool required for work. It will be needed to withdraw the measure and re-cut ready-made patterns. Never choose the size of the model from the sewing log, leaning on the size that you wear, always freeze all the necessary volumes again, and then check finished pattern. The fact is that many magazines give a large allowance for fishery freedom, because of what ready thing Looks like a baggy.
Needles for sewing machine Choose, based on the thickness and type of fabric. For example, the needles with a number 60-75 are suitable for light fabrics, from 80 - for costume, from 100 - for the palp. The needles for knitwear are characterized by a rounded edge, thanks to which the needle does not puncture the fabric, and spreads the threads in different directions. The needle for the skin, on the contrary, is equipped with a small blade cutting the material at the point of puncture.
Needles for manual sewing are also of different sizes. They are chosen as well as needles for sewing machines: the thinner the fabric, the thinner needle. In addition, you will need pins to secure paper cuttings on the fabric and assembly of the product.
Portnovsky chalk need to translate patterns on the fabric. With the same purpose, you can use thin washers. True, on light fabric There will be no chalk, nor soap, so you can take a simple pencil or a special water-soluble marker. For the translation of the outfit, tracing can be used, which can be purchased in almost any stationery department. If you plan to build patterns yourself, buy a millimeter.
In addition, the sewing process is unthinkable without a good iron with a sweeping function.
In the process of ironing you can give tissue the necessary form. Compare carefully unpainted pants with pants, recently widespread and dried in the car. The difference is huge. No better look and just stitched things, but enough to sip all the seams as they acquire the form.
How to choose materials for sewing
The choice of fabrics is simply huge: natural, blended, synthetic, monophonic, printed, with embroidery, unusual weave of threads, lace, knitted. To tell here about each type of fabric is not possible, since this can be written about this book.
What to choose in this manifold? First, if you sew through the magazine, be sure to pay attention to the recommendations for the choice of tissue. Secondly, feel free to ask sellers of consultants. Thirdly, if you have familiar seamstresses, ask for advice. Do not be able to choose a cloth, especially at first - completely normal.
Threads for sewing are best to buy together with the fabric, like all the fittings. However, the choice of buttons can be left for later, although some craftswomen sew something, inspired by the type of buttons.
Zippers are chosen based on the thickness of the fabric and the type of product: the jackets are needed plug-in lightning, pants - trousers, and in skirts and dresses, as a rule, sew secret lightning. The method of their sewing differs from the technology of sewing ordinary lightning, in addition, it will be necessary for this. special footwhich is not always included with the machine supplied with the machine.
Separately, just say about the sewing of the so-called complex tissues, since most of them differ attractive external species And many newcomers in sewing buy them, and then disappointed in the process of work.
So, a few simple tips:
✓ Thin tissue is dismissed only on surfaces that exclude their slip, for example, on the shine cotton or linen fabric table;
✓ For sewing thin tissues, only thin needles are suitable, since thick will leave non-accurate holes. The same rule acts at the mark and connecting parts by pins;
✓ If necessary, to strengthen the details from the fine translucent tissue of the type of organza will have to abandon standard laying materials, only the same material can be used. suitable;
✓ When performing a machine lines, the stitch width must be reduced to a maximum of up to 2 mm. All sections need to be carefully treated with an overlock or hide inside the seam (oops, linen seams);
✓ When sewing velvet use only thin needles that will not damage the gentle pile;
✓ The loops for buttons on the velvet are strengthened by the Organs, and not by conventional laying materials; When crossing parts, it is necessary to add them to face inside, because of this, two slippery surfaces turn out to be nearby. To perform a smooth machine line, the backbone is better to lay on both sides of the location of the future seam;
✓ Delete the mark from the velvet is very careful, since the threads can damage the pile. Need to avoid incorrect machine seamsbecause with such a fabric it is difficult to remove carefully;
✓ Elastic fabrics sew only with a special needle that does not tear fibers, but simply spreads them;
✓ to shoulder seams not stretched, there are elastic bands in them, thin ribbons. Packing materials strengthen those details that should not be elastic;
✓ With a string, the direction of tension of the tissue is taken into account, this parameter affects the style of the selected model;
✓ Elastic fabrics must be sewed with elastic seams if the sewing machine has no special knitted seams, zigzag or seam with a double needle will help;
✓ With a string of artificial fur, it is important to take into account the direction of the pile - it should be natural;
✓ in the product faux fur Must be located in such a way that the direction of his pile "looked" strictly down;
✓ If the pile on the artificial fur is short, it can be painted as ordinary fabric, folding facial side Inside.
✓ Artificial fur with a long pile is linked the same as natural: make a cut by point side, cutting only the fabric of the base, after which they push individual parts to the parties. Thus, it will be possible to save the pile intact;
✓ Before flashing the seams on the machine across the marks, the pins are boiled, so that the parts are not shifted;
✓ Stone artificial fur in the direction of the pile, unless, of course, it is possible;
✓ The entire pile in the seam must be pulled out on the front side immediately after the mark before performing a line by car;
✓ In order for the films of the seams on artificial fur products, they are too thick, the whole pile will be coated with them.