Woolen fabric for jackets 4. How to care for suit wool. Types of suit fabrics

19.04.2019

But they ignored the more traditional costume wool. In today's material, we will fill this gap and tell you about what fabrics are, what their weight and thread torsion are, and also share information straight from the main Neapolitan wool store Caccioppoli, which we recently visited.

Caccioppoli. Mecca of fabrics

Caccioppoli is a kind of mecca for the tailors of Naples, who, believe me, are many in this city. This is the oldest and most famous store and supplier of raw materials for. Entering it, you find yourself in a real city of fabrics, where you can find everything from tweed to wool with silk and shirt cotton in five impressive rooms. It is no coincidence that since 1920, when this store opened, tailors from all over Italy came here for fabrics. By the way, most of the fabrics that are on the shelves (and this is not the whole range) are woven in factories according to exclusive Caccioppoli patterns. They can be recognized by the store tag with the image of Vesuvius and two rolls of cloth.

There is also unimaginably soft cashmere from, and worsted wool from interesting patterns by Loro Piana, and slightly more formal fabric cuts by Vitale Barberis Canonico, and lesser-known Italian brands. The owner of the store in the fourth generation, Cosimo Cacciopoli, communicates with visitors on his own (he is the only one here who speaks fluent English) and is always ready to advise both on the assortment and on the characteristics of fabrics.

What does the “Super” mark on your fabric mean?

What do the mysterious numbers on the edge of the wool mean? They are responsible for the torsion coefficient of the thread. Most often, “Super” or “S” is written there with numbers in the range from 100 to 250. In the first case, 100 kilometers of thread are obtained from one kilogram of wool, in the second - 250.

The arithmetic is simple, but let's understand what fundamental difference. Let's start with the fact that more (despite the assurances of marketers) is not necessarily better. At least not more durable. Fabrics with a coefficient above 130 are often quite thin and fragile, so after six months or a year of active wear, they can begin to shine in especially exploited areas of the suit (knees, elbows, etc.), which looks unaesthetic. The same problem can occur with them when ironing.

We can offer next tip: for suits that you wear most often (but not more than once every two days, because the thing must "rest"), take wool with a coefficient in the range of 100-120. If it's a special event suit that you don't wear that often, you can also order a suit in Super 140 or 160. This fabric will look great, but remember that it's not very practical.

By the way, we recommend remembering one more important point: The twist factor of the thread says nothing about the weight of the fabric. In weaving, not only single threads can be used, but also twisted in two, three or even four. And a high coefficient speaks only about the subtlety of a single thread.

What you need to know about wool weight

The second fundamental parameter of wool is weight. Unfortunately, not all labels indicate it, although it is no less important than the torsion coefficient. For almost the entire second half of the 20th century, the average weight of wool for men was 350 grams per square meter. Although nowadays looms can produce fabrics weighing 220 grams/m2, for a solid demi-season suit, the weight of 300-350 g/m2 retains the status quo.

General tailors old school and in Naples, and in London, and in Russia, they will most likely unanimously offer you to sew a suit from slightly heavier wool than is now fashionable. This is primarily due to drapery: folds during landing and movements are much more accurate than on thin fabric. And the Neapolitans love heavy wool because their jacket design is, in principle, much lighter than the English one. Agree, a tweed jacket with several layers of beading and wadded lining is incomparable with a jacket made of the same tweed, but almost without these layers.

Worsted and combed wool

Another division to consider when choosing is the worsted (worsted) and combed (woolen) wool.

Worsted wool (also called "combed") is a smooth fabric, the thread for which is processed by a comber and consists of only long woolen hairs, which gives it higher wear resistance and a slight gloss.

Wool fabric: it doesn't get warmer

Dresses, suits, coats, sweaters, sweaters, blankets, blankets, carpets - the list of products for the production of which woolen fabric is used can be continued. So different in purpose, they are united by one important property — a high degree thermal protection, which is provided by natural wool fibers.

The earliest finds confirming human breeding of sheep and the use of their wool date back to the Stone Neolithic period - the 7th - 3rd centuries BC. They were found in what is now Switzerland.

In ancient Mesopotamia, which was located near the Persian Gulf, antique mosaics were found depicting the manufacture of woolen fabrics and their use in everyday life. Archaeologists date them to 4000-3500 BC.

In the Middle Ages, in the villages of southeast England, the peasants were engaged in raising sheep and processing their wool. This marked the beginning of the production of the famous English cloth, which became the main export commodity. The British called it "the most precious product of the kingdom" and sold it to other states. From 1275 taxes on the export of wool became the largest source of income for the English crown.

Interesting fact! It was from the Middle Ages, when England was considered the main exporter of wool and woolen materials to Europe, that original custom: symbolizing the country's national treasure, the Lord Chancellor in the House of Lords sat on a sack stuffed with wool. This tradition is not changed to this day. True, now the bag is filled with wool produced not only in Great Britain, but also in other states, which is a symbol of their unity.

However, in the XVII-XVIII centuries, the soft and beautiful wool of merino sheep, which began to be grown in Spain, pressed coarse English cloth on the textile market. And in the 20th century, the discovery synthetic materials led to a sharp decline in the production of pure wool fabrics.

Nowadays, when, fed up with the brilliance and beauty of synthetics, consumers began to give priority to natural natural materials, wool has again legitimately taken its place among the most sought-after and expensive fabrics.

Sources of woolen raw materials

Woolen is a group of fabrics, for the production of which raw materials obtained from various animals are used. The most famous "suppliers" of wool are:

To reduce the cost of some types of wool raw materials, cotton, viscose, acrylic or polyester fibers are added to it. Thanks to this, fabrics acquire additional strength and become more wear-resistant and durable.

Classification of woolen materials

Modern textile industry manufactures many materials from animal raw materials. According to their fibrous composition, they can be divided into two groups:

Pure wool. These include fabrics in which the inclusion of chemical fibers is not more than 10%.
Semi-woolen. These are fabrics in which up to 80% can be viscose, nylon, acrylic or polyester.

Interesting fact! AT recent times Increasingly, lavsan is used as an additive to wool fibers. These synthetic threads increase the resistance of the material to abrasion, reduce shrinkage and creasing. But at the same time, the introduction of lavsan reduces the level of hygroscopicity and plasticity and increases rigidity. finished product which is not always welcomed by consumers.

Depending on the type of yarn used and the way it is processed, woolen raw materials are divided into three important categories:

Worsted. They are obtained from combed yarn twisted over warp or weft. Such fabrics have a smooth surface with a clearly defined weave pattern.
Fine cloth. They are characterized by a fleecy surface, under which the texture of the material is often hidden. The presence of pile increases the thermal qualities of products, but increases their dust capacity and ability to pollute.
Rough cloth. Like the previous ones, they have a soft, fleecy, and sometimes felt-like surface. But the canvas itself looks heavier, thicker and rougher, since it is made using hardware yarn with the addition of textile waste. Fabrics are characterized by increased wear resistance, but little plasticity and drape.

There is also a classification of woolen and semi-woolen fabrics by purpose. According to it, all produced canvases belong to the following types:

Coat.
Suit.
Dress.

Coat fabrics are characterized by high (350-750 g/m 2) density, thickness, as well as increased wear resistance and heat-shielding properties. Other types are produced mostly from lint-free fabric. At the same time, materials for tailoring suits have a surface density of 200-400 g/m 2 , and dress materials - 80-160 g/m 2 . They are performed using various weaves: linen, twill, satin, finely patterned or two-layer.

Properties of woolen fabrics

Since woolen fabrics have many raw materials, their properties are different. However, the qualities that unite them are much more. Consider the most basic:

An important advantage of woolen fabrics is the rapid weathering of odors. In addition, most sheets are resistant to dust absorption and dirt.

Interesting fact! widely known and medicinal properties wool products. Also in ancient Russia to get rid of a toothache or headache, they tied a woolen scarf or scarf.

Assortment of woolen fabrics

There are many pure wool and wool blend fabrics that differ in density, weave type, processing and other characteristics. Let's get acquainted briefly with the most famous and sought after.

It's important to know! In order to give woolen fabrics greater elasticity and elasticity, 2-5% of lycra, a synthetic fiber with amazing stretchability, is added to them. In the description of such materials there is always the prefix "stretch", which you should pay attention to when buying a product.

Caring for wool products

Most woolen fabrics, especially with minimal synthetic additives, are very capricious in care. Before cleaning or washing them, you need to carefully study the recommendations of the manufacturers, which are applied in the form of icons on the label or label. There are certain rules, adhering to which you can save the original for a long time. appearance products:

it is best to wash woolen things by hand or on the most delicate machine mode;
only special liquid products which are intended for wool;
water temperature should not exceed 30 0 С;
woolen things can not be rubbed, twisted and wrung out in a typewriter;
clothes need to be dried horizontal position away from heaters. It should not be hung out in the sun;
most often wool products do not need ironing. It is enough to carefully hang them on a coat hanger;
if there are still wrinkles and creases on the clothes, then you should set the iron regulator to the “wool” position and apply the steaming mode.

It's important to know! Some woolen fabrics closely resemble other materials. There are woolen gauze, crinkled wool and woolen "flax". In order not to make a mistake when buying and to recognize the fabric correctly, you should conduct a small test: set fire to the fibers pulled out of it. If the thread is really wool, it will burn with the characteristic smell of burnt hair, and in its place you will get a small ball that is easily rubbed with your fingers.

Despite the abundance of artificial and synthetic materials, woolen products will never go out of fashion and will not lose its relevance. After all, only they can provide the most natural warmth, which will warm you wonderfully on cold days and bring a lot of pleasant sensations.

The material from which suits are made can consist of almost any type of fabric, but linen, jacquard, jeans, viscose, wool, cashmere, etc. are more commonly used. Recently, there has been a tendency to spread for tailoring suits. In this regard, the linen jacket is now at the peak of popularity.

Story

The description of the concept of "suit" in the modern sense includes a jacket with trousers and a skirt. The Europeans brought them into the form that the costumes now have. For many centuries in the composition everyday outfits men and women included skirts and aprons. The first trousers appeared among representatives of nomadic peoples, who had to spend a lot of time on horseback, and riding in a skirt was not very convenient.

The jacket itself was invented relatively recently. His prototypes were a frock coat and tailcoat. Initially, this type of clothing was sewn only for men, now there are many women's and even children's models. As a kind of top attire for women, a jacket was made - a product that performs the function outerwear, but lighter than a coat.

A viscose jacket is one of the most fashionable models of women's clothing in modern times.

Properties and types

Suit fabric does not have any specific composition, but may include both natural and chemical fibers.

Any fabric for suits, including coats, must have certain properties in order to meet the requirements for them. These properties are usually:

high wear resistance.
increased strength.
aesthetics.
resistance of the dye to the action of water and light.
the ability to keep the shape.

Depending on the final goal, a jacket, jacket and other suit fabric products may consist of different groups matters. Consider their description and some features.

Stretch

Suits for men, women and children are often sewn from stretch material. Suit stretch is a mixture of wool and elastane. A jacket, jacket or trousers made of stretch easily take the shape of the body, while not wrinkling and retaining strength.

Per unusual properties stretch fabric very fond of teenagers and women. This material does not constrain movements and stretches well. Stretch suit for boy or girl school age now at the peak of popularity.

Jeans

No less than stretch suits made of denim are in demand. The characteristic allows it to be included in the list of costume materials. A beautiful jacket or denim jacket is now in the wardrobe of almost every fashionista. The range of clothes from denim you can find many models for men, and even for little boy, which makes it possible to judge the high demand for such types of products.

Gabardine

The composition of gabardine includes fibers of wool and viscose. It is a soft and elastic material with embossed scars on the surface. In double-faced gabardine fabrics, purl and front side differ only in color, but they are identical in structure.

Faux leather

Faux leather is made from polyester. Its base is usually knitted. Faux leather much thinner than natural. It is plastic, so it fits the figure well. This material does not wrinkle and keeps its shape perfectly. Thanks to special processing this material can imitate snake or buffalo skin.

memory

In 2003, Japan invented the new kind fabric, which, according to its creators, had the properties of memory - could remember its shape and keep it. The matter was called memory - the word translated into Russian literally means "memory". The composition of the memory really includes specific polymers with a shape memory effect. Memory proved to be an excellent raw material for making costumes. Now memory is a coat and costume matter, but it is still quite new and quite rare. Here is a description of the features:

durability;
resistance to damage;
resistance to repeated washings;
memory does not need ironing;
the fabric dries quickly after washing;
it has a permanent color.

The most sewn from memory different clothes for men and women. Very often used for tailoring children's suits and outerwear. For a boy or girl, a product made from such a “smart” fabric is a great option.

Velvet

Capes are sewn from velvet, evening dresses, raincoats, trousers and children's things. The description of velvet is as follows: soft, heavy and shiny fabric with pile.

, thanks to the addition of elastane to its composition, stretches well and looks great on the figure. There are several more varieties of velvet, for example, chameleon velvet is an iridescent material, unlike the classic one, it is lighter and smoother. Panne velvet has a pressed pile.

- it is too velvet material. On its surface there are longitudinal scars. It is a durable, non-staining and stretchable material. Velvet is presented in a wide color scheme, in which predominantly - natural shades.

Velours

Velor has a short pile and a rough surface. This is a very elastic matter, which often includes wool fibers. To maintain the shape, synthetics are added to the velor. The surface of the velor is shiny due to a special coating.

Tweed

This one has a herringbone pattern on the surface. Now there is a tweed with a knotted surface and multi-color threads in the decor. The material is very rough and durable.

Linen

Another common variety is costume linen. Natural linen suits have one drawback - they wrinkle easily. If in linen fabrics add specific fibers, this effect can be eliminated. But a linen jacket or white jacket with mint looks respectable.

Linen suits can have a smooth and soft texture, as well as a rough and patchy texture. Jacket, blazer or trousers, of such material, having White color, visually not complete. Therefore, a white linen suit looks perfect even on overweight people.

Production

Coat and suit fabrics have been valued for their properties for centuries. The production technology is constantly being improved. If earlier a suit for men or for a boy was heavy, now it is very comfortable to wear it. Now even coat matter has a very small weight.

Special materials are used as a lining for suits to help the product retain its shape. The properties of the shoulder pads have also changed - they have become softer, their size has been reduced.

In the production of all woven fabrics, suit and coat materials make up the most large group. This is due to the fact that a jacket, jacket, trousers or skirts from these types of fabrics have the most different composition: They can be made from natural or artificial fibers. The ideal material for a suit for men or for a boy is pure wool fiber. The technology of processing such materials is constantly improving.

Application and care

The properties and characteristics of the fabric are the criteria by which the fabric is chosen for sewing suits on different seasons of the year. Spring-summer clothes are sewn from linen, denim, stretch, cotton fabric. For winter and autumn suits such types are more suitable: woolen and half-woolen, overcoat, sometimes cotton fabric.

Products for men are sewn from the most dense and wear-resistant materials. For women's clothing, types of fabrics with the properties of lightness, elasticity, softness are more suitable - in particular, dress or dress varieties of fabrics.

Semi-woolen and also go to the production of raincoats and jackets. Upper demi-season clothes sew from denim suit fabric. On showcases women's shops often there is a dress made of suit fabric, which, as a rule, has a business style.

Plaid suiting is a classic material for suits, both men's and women's. Its plaid variety is used to make fashionable pleated skirts for women and teenagers. This material consists of wool, sometimes it contains synthetic fibers, but in a very a small amount. classic color cells are red, black and green. Often there are softer tones.

Suit jacquard looks chic, from which premium-class clothes are sewn. Jacquard is more of a dress material, but in the production of suits, he also found wide application. This matter is dense, elastic and at the same time time easy. Suits made of jacquard fabric are extravagant and comfortable.

Depending on the composition of the product and the properties of its material, the features of caring for it are also determined. The most common description of this procedure is as follows:

Wash the product at home, even with a special mode washing machine, forbidden.
To get rid of dirt, the thing is subjected to dry cleaning.
Even if the jacket or other part of the outfit is white, it is forbidden to bleach it.
You can iron the item small temperature iron surface and using steam.

Throughout the history of its existence, fabrics for suits have never been unclaimed. There is no doubt that this state of affairs will continue for a very long time, so wearing a suit means looking fashionable, elegant and stylish.

Wool is a fabric made from hairline animals. This is one of the most ancient types of matter, but is still very popular despite the very tangible cost. True, today, more often they use not pure wool, but a mixture of fibers of different origins.

Characteristics

Wool is not only among the most famous, but also among the most expensive. The reason for this is its unique properties, which do not disappear even when mixed with synthetic fibers.

Wool is amazingly strong and durable. This is one of the most durable fabrics.
The material is hygroscopic: it passes air, but absorbs moisture - up to 17% in normal conditions and up to 40% at high humidity.
Wool is excellent at retaining warmth - in this area, few things can compare with the material. Moreover, fabrics retain body temperature, so even in the summer heat it keeps cool better.
Woolen fabrics have a natural dirt-repellent effect.
The material practically does not wrinkle and tolerates ironing well. The effect is provided by the crimpiness of the wool.
With rare exceptions, woolen fabrics do not cause allergies.

The disadvantages of the material can be attributed only to the high cost. In addition, under the action of water, the extensibility of the fibers increases significantly - up to 50%. Woolen items require special care.

Production

For the manufacture of materials, the most different types wool. The quality of the yarn is different, and, therefore, the fabric has different properties. The most famous are the following types wool.

Sheep- the most common and affordable. Sheep's wool excellent heat, wear-resistant and durable.

Sheep's wool

There are several types of material:

lamb wool- hair of the first haircut. Unusually soft to the touch, thin and obedient. Willingly used in the manufacture of costume fabrics of all kinds;
merino- the cover of a fine-fleeced sheep of the Merino breed. It is distinguished by its softness and lightness. It costs a little more, but it warms better. You might like it;
Shetland- very resistant to wear, but rough-looking wool, very warm, but harsh. Often used for tailoring casual style jackets;
cheviot- durable, warm, rather hard and rough. This is the basis of all tweeds for men's and women's suits.

Angora- wool of angora rabbits. Extremely soft and pleasant beautiful shine but prone to shrinkage. Does not apply to suit fabrics. You will find the link.

Camel's wool

Vicuna- one of the varieties of camel, very thin and soft, hand-assembled and very expensive. It is used in the production of the most expensive suit fabrics.

Vicuña wool

Cashmere- Made from the wool of Himalayan goats. Very gentle, thin, delicate fiber, while it has a very high wear resistance. Used everywhere despite the hefty cost. Here the costume fabric is cashmere.

Mohair- wool of the Angora goat. Rougher than angora, but light and durable, also has a beautiful sheen. Mohair fabrics are used in tailoring outerwear, suits and even tuxedos.

Wool Mohair

Alpaca wool - one of the llama breeds. Extremely warm - noticeably warmer than merino or cashmere, extremely light, with a soft sheen. Alpaca material is used for expensive clothes.

Varieties

The properties of the finished material depend not only on the type of yarn, but also on the processing method, the thread twisting method, the manufacturing method, and, of course, on additives. So the classification of woolen threads for suits is quite complicated.

Composition classification

All types of matter are divided into 2 main groups:

pure wool- this category includes material made only from wool yarn, and fabrics with the addition of other fibers up to 10%. Moreover, it is allowed to introduce natural fibers- cotton, silk, and artificial - viscose (read);
wool mixture- mixed option, where the proportion of other fibers can reach 50%. As a rule, mixed fabrics are less elastic, but much less prone to shrinkage, which makes it much easier to care for the suit. describes in detail what a blended fabric is.

Classification by spinning method

The classification refers specifically to fabrics, not yarn for knitted products. For tailoring of suits all types are used.

All types of material may include additives of artificial or natural fibers. Thus, the most famous include worsted wool blend fabric with a lavsan content of 60 or 40%, or wool blend cloth with a viscose share of up to 50%.

User classification

The most successful compositions eventually get given name and are perceived as a separate type of tissue. Of course, all of them are still referred to as woolen materials, but their characteristics are really very different, and not every material is suitable for sewing a men's or women's suit.

It should be noted that if before men's suits only rough hard cloth was offered, the same tweed, for example, then in the last decade the fashion has noticeably changed. Now, for jackets and suit trousers, much lighter and softer materials are used.

There are many subspecies of the material - Yorkshire, Irish, Harris tweed, although most often they are distinguished by the pattern: “dog fang”, “herringbone”, “chicken foot”.

Cloth- the most popular woolen costume fabric, made of semi-coarse, fine and semi fine yarn, has a specific matte surface. Weaving can be linen and twill.
Wool cloth
Cheviot- worsted, pure woolen fabric, also with twill weaving. More often it does not have a diagonal scar and is smoothly colored.
Cheviot cloth
Velours- material with a pile, has a fairly strong shine. Used for informal club jackets.
Woolen velor
Flannel– light fleecy wool, very comfortable to the touch, but does not like moisture and dries for a long time. It is used when tailoring suits, jackets and trousers. that can be sewn from flannel.
Wool flannel
Rogozhka- made from semi-coarse yarn, more characteristic weaving forms a small relief cell. Suitable for classic blazers.
Baratea- a little-known fabric with twill weave. They produce pure woolen fabric and mixed with silk. This fabric is used when sewing strict business suits and tuxedos.
fresco- "summer" woolen fabric. Very light, stiff but breathable.
Plaid- the characteristic pattern in a cage turned the material almost into a separate brand. Although in practice the plaid is made from a variety of woolen and blended fabrics. The tartan is used for tailoring informal costumes and is extremely diverse.
Wool tartan

Extra options

Density, lightness, wear resistance are the most important parameters of any fabric. In woolen materials, these indicators depend on the thickness of the thread, the spinning method, the number of fibers, and so on.

On the labels of the material, you can find data that allows you to clarify exactly what characteristics the cloth or cheviot has.

For the production of fabrics, 1-, 2-, 3-thread yarn is used:

On the label, you can find information about the thread number - the number before the letter s. The larger the number, the thinner the yarn was used, and, therefore, the matter itself will be softer and silkier. But at the same time, the thinner the thread, the less wear-resistant the material is.

The most practical are materials with parameters below 100, and, as a rule, suits, where a certain stiffness is required from the fiber, are sewn from such a fabric.

80s and below - rough, dense fabrics- tweed, for example, characterized by very high wear resistance, wrinkle-free and durable.
100 s - more tender and soft, but more crumpled. This is a cloth made of fine yarn, a cheviot.
110-130s - even softer comfort fabric. Usually used for tailoring summer suits.
150–180 s - very delicate silky fabrics that require special care. Strongly crumpled and subject to wear.
200-250 s is an indicator for elite fabrics, thin and soft, but short-lived and very delicate.