I sew from pieces of fur. How to sew a mink coat on your own. Types of fasteners for faux fur products

12.04.2019

Natural fur has been used as a material for clothing since ancient times, when severe weather conditions suggested to our ancestors that the skins of dead animals would be useful for making warm clothes and blankets. More than one millennium passed, and man learned how to make fur, dye, bleach, tint ... But the main achievement in this area was the tanning of leather and fur.

At the moment, the process of dressing fur is automated, but includes all the same basic processing steps as thousands of years ago. Only in spite of this natural fur remains a highly valuable material, and the owners of its expensive types are financially secure and successful people.

and their characteristic features

Depending on the type of animal, fur is divided into:

beaver fur (rather warm and moisture resistant material);
otter fur (one of the most wear-resistant);
raccoon fur (warm and very popular fur, relatively inexpensive);
marten fur (also warm, hypoallergenic and fairly wear-resistant material);
ermine fur (very rare, expensive and not the most practical option);
karakul (expensive material with unusual colors);
fox fur (beautiful and practical material);
seal fur (unpretentious in care, suitable option for very low temperatures)
mink fur (beautiful, moisture resistant, practical, rather expensive material: the cost of 1 meter of mink skin is more than 6,000 rubles).

This is not the whole range, there are other types of furs.

Natural fur processing - material stretching

Now it is worth touching on the question of how to stretch the skin or process previously prepared fur. To do this, you need to moisturize the skin. It is better to do this with a brush or a spray bottle. Water quality plays an important role here. It is better if it is distilled, - without various impurities metals, chlorine and other elements.

After this procedure, the skin should lie down for about 30 minutes. The exact soaking time depends on the thickness and elasticity of the material. It is very important not to allow excessive moisture - the fur must remain dry!

Stretching the skins can be started at the moment when the skin is almost dry. Editing should be done in the direction of the pile. The skin is straightened and pinned with nails or to a board. Try not to damage the structure of the skin and hair when stretching. If the pile is long, then such material is attached with the fur up, and if it is short or middle length- with fur to the board.

The material should be stretched strictly in a certain sequence: first you prick the bottom of the product, then the middle, after which we evenly stretch it to the left and right from the center and diagonally from bottom to top to the edges. After finishing the stretch, leave the product to dry completely. On average, this time is about a day. Then we remove the skin and leave it for at least 2 hours to lie down. It should be noted here that the more the wet material is stretched, the more it will shrink. Having finished talking about how to stretch the skin, you can proceed to other processing methods.

Fur processing - greasing

Fatting is necessary only if the elasticity of the skin is reduced, then work with fur begins. To eliminate dryness skin tissue after the drying phase, before removing from the stretch, wipe the material with a cotton swab or small piece cloth soaked in glycerin. After that, leave the skin until the glycerin is completely absorbed, and only then remove it from the stretch. This procedure will prepare the skin for cutting, making it soft and supple.

Then you can remove the material from the board, comb the fur and start cutting. Wavy edges should be trimmed immediately.

Fur color

If natural fur is heavily soiled, then it should be cleaned before coloring, since the paint does not penetrate well into the contaminated one. For this, an alkaline solution is taken.

The composition of the solution:

2-3 tsp salt;
1 tsp ammonia;
1 tsp detergent;
2 tsp baking soda;
1 liter of water.

Mezdra when coloring should be treated with glycerin or applied fat cream in order to avoid drying out.

Fur skins, as a rule, are dyed in more dark tones. When dyed in more light color you will first need to lighten the hair with hydrogen peroxide.

Fur is dyed by placing the skin on a wooden board and securing it with pins or small nails. Use for this ordinary hair dye. Before the procedure, the fur can be slightly wetted to make it easier to distribute the paint. Exposure time - according to the instructions on the package. We wash off the paint without removing the skin from the board, under the shower, then dry it and lift the fur with a hair dryer. Most of the time will be needed for drying the mezdra.

Skin tanning

In the process of drying and other procedures, the skin undergoes machining, resulting in the material becoming brittle and rigid. Tanning helps to strengthen the structure of the skin of mink, otter, raccoon, marten and other animals, which occurs due to the penetration of tanning agents into the skin, which bind protein fibers. The skin after such a procedure remains plastic and soft, increases resistance to decay, to the influence high temperatures. Also, the material perfectly tolerates repeated exposure to water, coloring and subsequent drying.

Tanning can be done with chemical substances, and natural tannins of vegetable origin.

Consider one of the methods of tanning. To do this, you need a half-liter jar that can be purchased at a pharmacy. Pour it with two cans of water and bring to a boil, then boil for 10-15 minutes and leave to infuse for a day. Then the broth is filtered and already cold applied with a brush on the skin from the side of the mezra and dried on spacers. In the process of drying, slightly wrinkle.

This was one of the steps on how to stretch the skin at home.

Wear resistance of fur

An important indicator of the quality of fur is its wear. The fur of the otter is considered the most wear-resistant. Products from it will last 20 seasons without any restorations. In second place in wear is beaver fur, in third place is fur seal. Products from the most popular and desired types of fur - sable, mink and arctic fox will last 12, 9 and 7 seasons, respectively. Least of all, it will be possible to vilify the fur of a hare (season 1), long-haired rabbit (season 2) and groundhog fur (season 3.5). You can also touch more deeply on the topic of wear resistance of some species and talk about how to process the skin of a rabbit, but talk about something else.

Fur wear resistance indicators:

hair strength;
core strength;
bond strength of hair and skin tissue;
skin thickness and density;
thickness of the epidermis and subcutaneous tissue;
hair density, etc.

In turn, for example, the strength of the bond between the hair and the skin depends on the type of fur, the season of extraction, and also on the observance of the technology for processing skins. So, during the molting period, the connection of the hair with skin is minimal, so fur should be mined in late autumn. During this period, the skin has the best characteristics.

How to distinguish a fake?

It is not uncommon for natural fur to be faked with cheaper material. For example, a marten, after giving the appropriate appearance, is passed off as a sable, a nutria as a beaver, and a mink is often replaced with a rabbit or marmot.

In order to recognize the substitution, you need to pay attention to the fur. Beaver, for example, guard hair longer than nutria, and the undercoat is thicker. The awn of rabbit fur is much softer than that of mink. And groundhog fur different lengths, unlike the mink, which has a perfectly even hairline.

Conclusion

The love of most of us for natural fur is in our genes, from the moment when our ancestors realized all the advantages of wearing products from it - softness, warmth and comfort. You can independently answer questions about how to stretch the skin, how to process it and make it beautiful. You can also buy ready-made material.

What girl does not dream of a fluffy, warm coat? Absolutely all women want to look chic in a fur product in order to catch the admiring glances of passers-by. But, alas, not every fashionista can afford a natural fur coat. Due to the high cost of raw materials and the laborious processing of fur, vests and fur coats are very expensive. Do not get upset ahead of time. Today you will learn how to sew a natural fur coat with your own hands. A master class will help any skilled needlewoman who knows basic knowledge cutting and sewing. In order for you to gain experience in sewing, we recommend that you sew a fur coat from faux fur with your own hands, and after training, take up the manufacture of products from natural fur.

Choosing a material

Before sewing a beautiful fur coat, you need to think about the material that will be used for tailoring outerwear. So, let's figure it out together from what raw materials you can sew your “creation”:

Natural fur. This material- the most expensive, as it is obtained from an animal, and not made synthetically. Can only work with raw materials experienced seamstresses with extensive experience working with fur products.

Important! Natural fur is easy to ruin, so before you get to work, weigh your creative strengths and skills well.

Artificial fur. This is the most a budget option which is great for beginner needlewomen. Cloths with a short pile are easy to cut and sew on a typewriter. The current market offers big choice artificial analogues of natural fur, which are difficult to distinguish from the real one, which plays important role in the formation of an affordable pricing policy.
Natural previously used fur. Surely every woman at home has an old mother's mink coat that needs repair, or a coat that has long gone out of fashion. After viewing the ads and going to the “flea market”, you can get that very tasty morsel for a minimal fee.

How to sew a faux fur coat with your own hands? Master Class

We bring to your attention detailed master class to make beautiful faux fur coats. For work, we took the fur imitated as a lynx, so that you could immediately understand some of the points that you may encounter.

Materials and tools:

Faux fur (material is designed for size 42) - 2.2 meters.
Lining fabric (viscose, satin) - 1.7 meters
Insulation (synthetic winterizer, holofiber, fine wool) - 1.7 meters.
Flannel or any other fabric for the "probe" - 2.2 meters.
A set of patterns (according to your own standards or examples from the Internet).
Accessories - buttons, hooks, clips.
Adhesive backing tape (for reinforcing armholes, sleeves and shoulder seams).
A clerical or furrier's knife with a sharp blade.
Scissors.
Thimble.
Long line.
Gypsy needle.
Tape measure.
Tailor pins.
Metal comb for evenly combing the junctions of fur skins.
Ballpoint pen for marking.

Sewing a fur coat with your own hands:

We cut out the main details for the fur coat from the “probe” fabric, carefully sweep everything and try it on ourselves. After fitting, we make the necessary corrections. We check the length of the sleeve and the product itself. We check the conformity of the marks of all allowances for the seams and the hem of the bottom. Now we warm up the “probe”. We have a do-it-yourself faux fur coat pattern, which we will use to cut the lining and fur fabric.
For work, we took fur with a pattern, so before the cutting stage, we transfer the location of the image to the wrong side with the help of chalk and a long line. We will take these strips into account in the formation of patterns for faux fur and lining.
We lay out the details of the fur fabric, taking into account the location of the pattern. Do not forget to transfer the inner details of the hood with a small selection from the pattern of the shoulder shelf. We made a complete layout of all the details on the fur before the cutting process.
We cut the fur well sharpened stationery knife, wielding it from the wrong side of the canvas. Do not forget to hold the fur with your hand, cutting it into small sections, slightly pushing both sides of the canvas. We cut separately the warp threads that did not break initially. Cut out all the details with additions, chest tuck without cutting off 1 cm from it for an allowance.
We cut out the insulation and lining: we cut out the elements of the back and sleeves according to the fur pattern, and the details of the shelves - minus the hood (if available) and the selection. We cut out all the woolen details, we cut them off with pins with a lining, stepping back from the edge of about 2 cm. Cut out the woolen details with a lining.
We process on the overlock chipped parts of the insulation and lining around the entire perimeter. We get single parts of the insulated textile lining, the edge of which will no longer crumble.
We sweep and stitch the previously marked chest tuck on the lining and shelves. Those tucks that turned out on the lining are carefully ironed down.
Since the fur inevitably gets into the seam when sewing, we correct this problem by pulling it out with a gypsy needle. We turn the fur product on the front side and comb it with a metal comb.
We cut off the excess fur from the inside so that the seam straightens out well. Now our seams look appropriate.
Sweep and grind side seams shelves and back, hood and sleeves. We process the seams in the same way as in the case of tucks.
We grind together the details of the lining shelf with fur picks for the hood. We sweep and sew on the typewriter the side seams of the back, hood and shelves. We process the seams on the back with a gypsy needle, scissors and a comb. Carefully iron all side seams on the textile lining.
We grind the shoulder seams, and then we process the inner and outer seams with the above steps.
Sew a sleeve from the lining to the side armhole of the shoulder. We perform similar manipulations with the second sleeve.
We sew a neck with a hood on a sewing machine.
We put the lining in the fur product, and then try it on. Shoulder pads can also be added if desired.
We sweep and sew the lining to the fur. We process the lower edges of the sleeves, securing them blind seam in one fold. Sew the shoulder pads to the textile lining.
We grind the lining with fur around the perimeter.
We turn the stitched fur coat inside out through the hole that is located on the seam of the sleeve.
We turn the sleeves with a hole inside out, and then sew it up with a hidden seam.
Sew fastener buttons (buttons can be used).

A do-it-yourself faux fur coat is ready to please its happy hostess!

If you want to sew a fur coat from natural fur, then it will not hurt you to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances:

Finding exactly the same paintings is almost impossible. That is why it is very difficult to choose the right location of the skins so that the product seems solid, without bald spots and joints. To do this, fur should only be dealt with by a professional or a very experienced seamstress.
Do not be sure that cutting off the sleeves from old fur coat, you will sew a beautiful vest. All parts must be cut out, and worn areas replaced.
The basic rule for tailoring any fur clothing is that the fur should be directed to the bottom of the product (pile down).
We recommend inserting the best canvases in the most visible parts - in the center of the shelves and back.
Do not use scissors to cut natural and artificial fur fabrics. Carry out the cutting process not on a wooden, but on a plastic surface.
Check the suitability of the fur lining in advance. For example, skins that have been used can tear even at the slightest touch of a needle. It is highly undesirable to take such a canvas for sewing a fur coat or vest.
If you didn’t find a ready-made pattern on the Internet, then make it yourself, take your well-fitting coat as a basis. Using the scheme of its construction of parts, you can easily make any fur coat.

The world of leather, fur is a fascinating world that gives a lot of positive creative emotions. But working with natural fur requires knowledge of the rules for selecting fur, the technology of sewing fur products, the methods of making connecting seams of various skins, and the skills of working on a furrier machine. In addition, no video lessons and courses on working with fur can give the most important thing - experience that appears only after years.

Fur details, unlike leather, are connected either manually or on a special furrier machine. Sewing fur on a conventional sewing machine makes the seam stretched and of poor quality. There are many methods for connecting fur skins manually, but it is enough to know at least one type, for example, a "overlock" seam. Such a seam is performed from right to left, with a "double puncture". The edges of the two skins to be sewn are folded with the hair inward so that the hair is not visible during stitching. The needle should pierce both skins away from you. After pulling out the needle and thread with opposite side, the needle with the thread is transferred through the stitched edges and again pierced away from itself at an equal distance. Experienced furriers repeat the same stitch, that is, the needle passes twice into the same hole. The density of the stitch and the depth of the puncture depend on the thickness of the leather tissue. A slight difference in the length of the hair of the two skins to be sewn can be leveled by moving the edge of the skin upwards with more long hair. IN this case stitch should be tight.

Working with fur requires a special tool. In addition to the shoe knife, with which, rather than scissors, the skin of the fur is cut, many other tools are still used. For example, a hammer for smoothing and softening seams, adhesive cushioning tapes that reinforce the edge of the skin, special needles, an awl, etc.

Working with fur has one important advantage- you can always add the missing piece to any part or replace part of the fur with another. Connecting seam easy to hide in thick fur. However, this is the main criterion professional level furrier. The selection of fur of different quality and shade of skins is the most important process in working with fur, especially when sewing outerwear.
The correct selection of fur will make the fur coat as if sewn from one large skin, without focusing on the joining of skins of different quality. good master the furrier, like a sculptor, feels the fur and sculpts a real work of art from different pieces, which is why the cost of tailoring fur products is the most expensive service of the atelier.

Fur skins are sewn both with a hand furrier seam and on a furrier machine. To perform a furrier seam on a machine, the skin at the seam is folded with hairline to each other, carefully seasoned index finger or an awl of hair inside and sew the edges of the leather tissue. The needle and thread should match the thickness of the leather, and the color of the thread should match its color. When working on a furrier machine, the hair should be carefully tucked inside.
For fox and fox skins, thread No. 80 is used, for thin rabbit skins - No. 50, 60. For other skins - No. 40, 50. Fur stitches smooth with the butt of a knife.
Fur can be cut only with a special shoe knife according to reverse side fur, laid out on a plastic board or plexiglass. If you cut it off with scissors, then part of the fur will fall off, and when sewing, a seam will be noticeable.

Do not put moth balls in fur coats. Some furs, including humans, are allergic to mothballs.
Protect the fur coat from wiping. Worn areas are very old appearance fur coats. Worn and stretched areas of fur on a fur coat can appear with constant driving.
Natural furs must be protected from direct exposure to a variety of chemicals, as well as perfumes. hairline from this they can lose their luster, and the skin tissue elasticity.

The 10B furrier is equipped with a table and an industrial electric motor. Furrier machine 10B is designed for sewing products from natural fur.

well preserved leather coat, V skillful hands craftsman, can turn into an elegant leather handbag and at the same time you will spend only on paying for the work for tailoring.

To insert a zipper into leather jacket, it is necessary to have sewing machine capable of sewing leather, otherwise you can break not only the needle, but also the machine itself.

It is impossible to chip off the skin with pins: traces remain on it. soft skin on the machine they sew with a regular needle No. 80 or No. 90; thicker leather requires a special triangular needle. The line should be large, because the skin is easily cut through.

Despite the abundance of professional sewing equipment in stores, many still use old industrial "Soviet" sewing machines of the 22nd class.

Sewing a fur coat with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. Of course, you will need certain sewing and cutting skills, but the main thing is your desire to look stylish, fashionable and completely inexpensive.

What you need to sew a fur coat with your own hands: a master class

The first thing to do before starting a pattern is, in fact, to buy material for sewing a fur product.

Material

The textile industry can today provide wide choose required material however, the choice is always yours:

Natural fur- the most expensive material. Skins and their cutting is a separate art that will require skill, special knowledge and equipment;
Artificial fur(under natural) is sold in individual stores, is the most the best option for fashionistas who do not want to overpay for quality items. You can combine faux fur and natural patterns, for example, on the collar;
Old fur coat for alteration- the most popular option for fur new clothes. However, it is worth remembering that any fur has its own service life, and therefore all worn-out places, scuffs and uneven seams must be eliminated during the sewing of a new product.

Natural new skins can be purchased at specialized stores or directly at the fur company. However, as a rule, there are few free natural skins for sale from manufacturers, since all orders have previously been agreed with regular customers - a fur fashion studio. But, it’s still worth trying to find such a production, because the price of such materials will be several times lower.

Tools

After determining the fur, you should pay attention to the tools and materials, namely:

accessories, depending on the planned model: buttons, leather ties, belts, hooks;
lining material: simple satin - for classics, if for insulated winter - quilted lining from combined fabrics;
lining tapes on a self-adhesive basis for gluing and insulating all seams;
scissors;
clothespins or hairpins for fixing the skin;
tongs-punchers for fittings;
ready-made patterns for the model;
blade or scalpel;
hammer, wrapped soft cloth(to soften the seams);
trihedral special needles;
thimble;
metal brush comb;
chalk or soap for marking.

Important! Patterns are best ordered at the studio. So you will spend a little on compiling ready-made patterns, but save time and save yourself from unnecessary losses, both material and moral.

patterns

Before proceeding to phased implementation works, you need to print ready-made patterns for the future fur masterpiece, transfer them to fabric patterns. https://yadi.sk/i/5MSBMcZ63R7qzN

Important! The size of the patterns is your size, specify all the details and parameters of the fur coat, or better, order a pattern model in the studio, and work on it further.

After you have chosen the desired model, cut out patterns on the fabric, you can proceed to the main work:

cut out all the individual constituent parts with a small margin along each edge of 1-2 cm;
sew all the individual elements, follow the direction of fur growth so that the product looks harmonious (up, down);
if it is natural fur, then it is necessary to initially make a hole with special furrier tools, bast, and then sew. If fur is chosen artificial origin, then all manipulations, as with conventional models jackets;
the seams are softened with a hammer;
a special tape is glued at the seam;
a lining is sewn on a basis of quilted fabric or satin fabric.

After sewing the fur coat model, attach the entire necessary fittings, comb the edges and especially the seams of the entire fur coat, check them for strength.

How to calculate footage

To calculate the correct footage of the material that will be used when sewing a fur coat, the following parameters should be taken into account.

Coat length. To determine this parameter, you will need to measure the distance between the upper shoulder point and the length line of the future product.
Sleeve length value. The parameter is determined by measuring the distance between the shoulder point and the desired sleeve length.
Silhouette view. In the case when it is planned to sew a product with a straight or slightly flared silhouette, for a fur coat of size 42 ... 48, only one length of a fabric made of fur material with a width of 147 ... 150 cm will be needed. If the model is sewn in a size exceeding 50, you will need a fabric for 2 lengths. For a fur coat with any size, but with a strongly flared silhouette or smell, you also need material for 2 lengths.
If the product will have a collar, hood, belt, etc. additional elements cut, you should purchase a fur fabric with additional footage. As a rule, the length of the material will be increased by 0.5 ... 0.8 m (taking into account individual wishes regarding the proportions of the elements). Now the selection is performed infrequently. In priority - a lining on a heater or without it. It is cut out to the side line, and the fur will need to be tucked up. More rare are cases of performing a narrow selection, for example, suede. When creating a selection involves the use of the main material, a one-piece version should be preferred to reduce the number of seams. The pattern of patch pockets does not need additional footage - lunges from the general cutting of a fur coat are quite suitable for this.
Accounting for allowances for processing seams, shrinkage of the material (if the base is knitted). This requires about 10 ... 20 cm.
Combined furs. In the case of using parts for cutting which are used different types fur fabric, the calculation of the footage of each element is made separately. The basis is the height of the parts.

We offer to see video master class with instructions:

An overview of the most important rules for sewing a faux fur coat

Cutting parts of the product is carried out in the direction of the pile. A fur fabric with a short pile is also allowed to be cut in the opposite direction.

For stitching faux fur sewing machine straight line is applied. To remove the villi that have fallen into the seam area on the front side, use the needle.
Allowances need to be cut off thick fur with a long pile.
It is not practiced to duplicate the details of a fur coat made of synthetic fur with adhesive materials. If necessary, it will be justified to use non-adhesive duplicating materials by tying (fastening) them to the base canvas, inside out. A craftsman who uses an ordinary adhesive pad runs the risk of gluing it to the base, which can lead to the loss of plasticity in the fur, its “stacking”.
In order to get rid of excess volume, the hem of the bottom is subjected to light ironing.
In the event of exposure to steam from an iron on synthetic fur, which entailed a rise in pile, to return the material old look, you need to use a regular clothes brush with natural bristles (preferably). After processing the smoothed area with steam, it is then combed in the direction opposite to the pile. Then the steam and the brush should be used in the direction of the pile. This procedure is repeated several times.
Ironing of faux fur is not recommended. If there is a need to smooth the seams, you need to use a slightly heated iron, using an ironing iron (white cotton cloth),
For duplication of faux fur, non-adhesive materials are used (when the thickness of the main fabric is not enough or the fabric has poor shape retention).
In the case of sewing a fur coat only on a lining to strengthen the shoulder seams, edging, a cotton strip is used (to prevent stretching of the sections)
The functions of the clasps are hinged buttons, loops or special hooks. For the correct sewing of hooks, the marking of the selection is initially carried out. After that, the resulting line will become the basis for making cuts for hooks. The cuts are duplicated. A hook is placed in the slot of the hole, followed by sewing from the wrong side: in the area between the selection and the side, through punctures are made, then the side is tacked, the selection is made by making several stitches. The pile will hide the stitches well and they will be invisible. Before performing the procedure, it is advisable to practice on a sample in order to determine the size of the cuts for the hooks.

Finally

Summing up, we can say that any girl can sew a fur coat from natural or artificial fur with her own hands. Alternatively, you can take your favorite coat pattern and modify it a bit to create a pattern for new clothes.

For those who have never been engaged in tailoring, it is recommended to study in detail the recommendations of professional seamstresses, watch videos and consistently follow their recommendations.

In the process of working with your own hands at home, do not rush to cut the material. To make the fur coat you sewed perfect, double-check all the measurements several times, as well as the location of all the details of your pattern. Following our recommendations, you will be able to sew a fur coat made of artificial or natural material. We recommend a video on how to sew a fur coat yourself:

Modern faux fur is not much different from natural fur - now it is smooth, iridescent, does not fall off at all and retains heat perfectly. Things from this material are beautiful, fashionable and even sophisticated, and it is not difficult to process if you follow certain rules.

Choose a model

When choosing the style of a coat, jacket or faux fur vest, it is better to focus on the simplest silhouettes. The model should contain the very minimum of constructive lines: darts, pockets, folds, complex collars, etc. simpler product- the easier it is to work with him.

How to cut faux fur?

1. The material is laid out in one layer, wrong side up and the direction of the pile down.

2. Patterns are placed in one direction.

3. When cutting, the fur falls under the scissors, so it is cut with a blade or a sharp knife.

4. Each part of the model is duplicated with adhesive fabric in sections to prevent stretching and deformation.

5. The markings on the patterns are made with chalk, pins or a felt-tip pen, but only from the inside out.

Stitching rules

Before sewing the parts together, they are chopped off with pins, after combing the pile from the cuts. Connect the parts on an overlock or a small zigzag stitch. If there is a furrier machine, then you can use it.

After grinding, the parts are unfolded and stretched so that the sections are joined. Such a seam will be completely covered with fur and will be invisible.

If the pile is short, then the skin is sewn regular stitch, but the hairs are pre-cut from the allowance.

Bottom processing

If the bottom of a faux fur product is processed incorrectly, then the thing will turn out to be shapeless and bulky. It has its own technology and sequence.

Most dressmakers hem fur with cross stitches, often two stitches. To do this, the edge is evenly trimmed and processed with an overlock or zigzag, after which it is folded to the front side (!) And tucked. Then it is turned inside out and hemmed with cross stitches along the stitched line. Then the basting is removed, the bottom is straightened and another line is made along the finished edge.

If the bottom is hemmed with a facing, then it is cut out obliquely from lining fabric, 10 cm wide.

Folded lengthwise inside out and ironed, the facing is combined with the cut of the product with front side and stitch. Then turn the trim inside out so that the fur turns up 1.3 cm. Top edge strips are sewn by hand.

If during the operation fur got into the seam, then it is straightened with a thick needle, after which the bottom is smoothed with the palm of your hand. Under no circumstances should an iron be used.

Fittings on fur attached with a piece of cloth or leather. Hinges on such models can only be hinged.