Amino acids in cosmetology. Proteins, peptides, amino acids in cosmetology. For indoor use

Amino acids are component squirrel, the "building blocks" of which it is built. Therefore, cosmetologists have long paid attention to them, because the skin renews itself very quickly and it constantly needs building material.

A dermatologist-cosmetologist told us about how and for what amino acids are used. Svetlana Petrovna Zavertylenko.

Proteins are synthesized in the body from amino acids, which are formed as a result of the breakdown of proteins found in food products... There are about 28 amino acids in total. Their sources are foods containing protein: milk, meat, eggs, legumes.

Skin proteins are also synthesized from amino acids – ... Therefore, amino acids have a beneficial effect on the state of the dermal framework. They improve dry, flaccid and atonic skin. In addition, amino acids are made up of hygroscopic molecules of the stratum corneum, which collect moisture in the air.

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V beauty salons ampouled preparations of amino acids are introduced into the skin using hardware techniques. The most common of them are galvanization and phonophoresis. During these procedures, the tranfollicular passage of the drug into the skin occurs - through the ducts of the sebaceous and sweat glands... The procedures are carried out in a course of 10-12 sessions, 3 times a week. However, the effective methodology for the introduction of amino acids today is the well-known mesotherapy.

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As for creams, nanotechnology is used here. Liposomes and nanosomes, which have the ability to penetrate the intercellular spaces, act as conductors. Amino acids are located within these small structures and carried deeper into the skin. Typically, creams with liposomes or nanosomes are present in both pharmacy cosmetics and in popular cosmetic series. They are used for rejuvenation and deep moisturizing skin.

For indoor use

V pure form in cosmetology, methionine is used, which is a precursor of keratin. It is prescribed in tablets for skin problems. The drug is prescribed for a long time and in a complex manner and, as a result, improves the condition of the hair, skin and nails. Today, experts have named three more amino acids responsible for hair production - histidine, lysine and tyrosine.

At the moment, cosmetologists can offer their patients big choice effective anti-aging treatments. Replenish missing volumes, correct ptosis, eliminate pigmentation - this and much more can be achieved using modern aesthetic techniques. Hyaluronic acid injections to improve the quality of the skin have been used successfully enough long time, but unfortunately, they do not always give a 100% result. It is possible to change this situation by combining hyaluronic acid with collagen synthesis activators, which can be amino acids.

About the main advantages of this unique combination, as well as about the peculiarities of using JALUPRO® and JALUPRO®HMW preparations with amino acids and hyaluronic acid Dermatologist Olga Olshanskaya told the site in an exclusive interview.

What are the main causes of visible signs of skin aging?

We all know that the skin, like the entire human body, is aging. The main signs of aging that our patients pay attention to most often are a decrease in skin tone and elasticity, and as a result, a change in the clarity of the face oval, the appearance and aggravation of wrinkles and folds. If we talk specifically about these signs of wilting, then it must be remembered that this is a visible consequence of a decrease in the quality of the middle layer of the skin - the dermis, which manifests itself in a decrease in the content and changes in the quality of collagen and hyaluronic acid. This is one of the main causes of aging. And the essence of most cosmetic anti-age procedures aimed at improving the quality of the skin is to stimulate the synthesis of endogenous collagen and hyaluronic acid, which can compensate for changes in the relief and tone of the skin, and increase its elasticity.

What is the role of amino acids in preparations for improving the quality of the skin?

Collagen is a protein molecule, and in order for it to be synthesized by the fibroblast, it is not enough just to stimulate it. We need that the skin in this moment contained free amino acids, which are building material for collagen.

The structure of collagen is very specific and its composition mainly includes repeating sequences of amino acids: glycine, proline, lysine. In the case of a lack of these amino acids, even active stimulation of collagen production will not lead to its full formation.

In addition, it was found that amino acids are regulators of collagen synthesis. The fact is that it is constantly renewed in the skin: the "old" one is split into amino acids, and the new one is synthesized. An increase in the concentration of free amino acids in the dermis - products of collagen breakdown, affects the synthetic activity and proliferation of fibroblasts, ensures their positive chemotaxis to the site of increased concentration of amino acids, and reduces the rate of degradation of existing collagen.

Accordingly, the exogenous introduction of collagen amino acids into the skin is perceived by the cells as a signal for its synthesis. This is the basis of the effect of JALUPRO® and JALUPRO®HMW preparations used in cosmetology practice.

Tell us about JALUPRO® and JALUPRO®HMW products. What are their main advantages?

The preparations for biorevitalization JALUPRO® and JALUPRO® HMW (Professional Dietetics, Switzerland) are represented in Ukraine by the Innovaesthetic company. Their main feature consists in a combination of hyaluronic acid with an amino acid functional cluster (ROS). ROS is a complex of amino acids L-lysine, L-proline, L-leucine and glycine.

The key to the effectiveness of ROS is a certain ratio of amino acid concentrations in its composition. In addition, optical isometry of molecules is of fundamental importance: the use of L-isomers ensures maximum bioefficiency and recognition.

This is precisely the uniqueness of ROS, which is both the most biocompatible substrate and a trigger for collagen synthesis. The JALUPRO® line is represented by two drugs: JALUPRO® itself, represented by a combination of amino acids with low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (200 kDa) at a concentration of 1%, volume of 3 ml and JALUPRO® HMW by Innovaesthetic, in which amino acids are combined with high molecular weight hyaluronic acid ( 1200-1400 kDa) at a concentration of 2%, the volume of the drug is 2.5 ml.

When is the use of JALUPRO® and JALUPRO® HMW preparations with amino acids and hyaluronic acid indicated?

The indications for the use of these drugs are very diverse. At mild of manifestations of photo- and chrono-aging of the skin, the drug of choice is the basic JALUPRO®, and for moderate and severe manifestations, JALUPRO® HMW with the effect of prolonged stimulation is recommended.

JALUPRO® and JALUPRO®HMW are recommended for preparing skin for cosmetic techniques requiring rehabilitation (peels, laser exposure, surgery), since amino acids increase the rate of reparative processes in the skin.

Improving the quality of body skin is a separate area of ​​the cosmetologist's practice, where the use of JALUPRO® and JALUPRO® HMW preparations is also advisable. It should be noted that there is a good clinical effect on striae. When working on the skin of acne patients, JALUPRO® provides pronounced effect with regard to the correction of post-inflammatory elements, hypotrophic scars. The course of treatment varies from 4 to 6 procedures, depending on the indications. The interval between them for JALUPRO® is 1-2 weeks, for JALUPRO®HMW, which has a prolonged action - 2 weeks.

Each time something definite is remembered, so you can listen to her lectures many times :). One of the times it dawned on me - Natalia recommends all the girls in mandatory drink amino acids... It promises a "business-class" skin glow :). I was impressed and started to study ...

"Amino acids are the "primary sources of life" from which proteins are formed. Today, part of our diet is fast food, which is high in simple carbohydrates and fats, but protein in such foods is often lacking. In addition to fast food in the diet modern man a lot of sugar, all kinds confectionery, which can also lead to protein deficiency. The first symptoms of amino acid deficiency may be decreased appetite, fatigue, lethargy, hair loss, and deterioration of the skin. Even a minor deficiency can trigger the consumption of amino acids from muscle tissue, because it is necessary to maintain the functioning of the brain and heart, hence the symptoms of exhaustion and apathy. "

"Amino acids are a building and" repair "material for nails and hair."

"Bones, skin, muscles, hair and internal organs are composed of proteins. Plasma, vital antibodies, hormones and enzymes are derived from protein. Protein is also needed for cell renewal and repair. "

On the one hand, theoretically all vitamins can be obtained from food. On the other hand, I do not monitor my diet very carefully, that is, I eat well, but I am not ready to stuff cottage cheese and legumes in myself every day (a source of protein), especially in summer! Therefore, I regularly drink vitamins. Now I drink Triphala in compressed tablets in the morning on an empty stomach for gentle cleansing of the body, and in the afternoon between meals I take Amino Acids for skin and hair. Another powerful source of protein that is indispensable for all vegetarians is Spirulina, which I drank in late autumn. A general overview of the vitamins that I use, alternating them, I described.

When it comes to vitamins, I always look for them first of all from Solgar, because they produce vitamins in the most digestible form (I compared the compositions of different companies and read separately about specific vitamins). Solgar has a lot of amino acids - and the plus is that they can be "typed" separately for exactly what is needed now. I chose an amino acid for skin and hair - L-Cysteine.

L-Cysteine ​​is a part of proteins and peptides, plays important role in the processes of skin tissue formation. Cysteine ​​is a part of α-keratins, the main protein of nails, skin and hair... He promotes collagen formation and improves skin elasticity and texture. Cysteine ​​is also found in other proteins in the body, including some digestive enzymes.

In addition, it has many other useful properties, but I focus on the very "shine" that Natalia Shafranova recommends to all girls :).

You can get Cysteine ​​from a number of foods, but for a vegetarian, there are not many sources of Cysteine, and you need to absorb these foods all day without interruption in order to get the daily required dose. Therefore, it is easier to supplement your diet with additional intake of vitamins.

Suitable for vegetarians and vegans, gluten free, no soy, no sugar, no artificial flavors, no preservatives.

L-Cysteine ​​is a sulfur-containing amino acid that helps synthesize keratin, a protein found in skin, hair and nails.It is also a precursor of L-Glutathione, a tripeptide involved in one of the body's detoxification systems.This product provides the body with free form L-Cysteine ​​for optimal absorption.

Take 1 to 2 capsules daily between meals.

I have been drinking L-cysteine ​​for the second week now. Since I now approach self-care in a comprehensive manner - and cleanse the body, and go to the beautician for cleansing, and carefully select the facial treatment, and check with the gynecologist - it is difficult to say what exactly the effect comes from. But my face is definitely clearer with the same diet.

Have you learned something about Amino Acids? Maybe you would recommend some more for female beauty? :)

The content of the article:

Peptides are natural or synthetic compounds made up of amino acids. They can be synthesized by the body on its own or come from the outside with cosmetic and medicines... The main purpose of these structural units of protein is the regulation of the vital activity of living cells, due to which they began to be actively introduced into cosmetic complexes to control the processes taking place in the skin. How effective are peptides in solving cosmetic problems how safe they are for health and whether it is worth buying peptide cosmetics - read the answers to all these and many other questions in this article.

Description and mechanism of action of peptides in cosmetology

Most cosmetic problems arise as a result of cell disruption, lack of nutrients. Premature aging, wrinkles, skin laxity, ugly color and much more dictate to cosmetologists and researchers the need to search as much as possible effective means to eliminate skin imperfections.

Since the beginning of the 20th century, research has begun on previously unexplored amino acid compounds, i.e. peptides. Quite quickly, their study led to interesting results. Peptides have a number of important beneficial properties, have a regulatory effect on the cells of the body, being responsible for correct flow all intracellular processes.

There are two ways to form them: combining several amino acids into short chains or the breakdown of a protein into structural elements. Peptides are not auxiliary materials, but are considered essential for the normal functioning of tissues. This was the main reason that peptide compounds began to be actively added to cosmetics.

It is known that there are a huge variety of peptides that differ in primary and secondary structure, i.e. the sequence of amino acids, the structure of the molecule itself and the spatial molecular configuration. The primary structure is a code, which in turn is responsible for certain physiological processes.

Peptides used in cosmetology are characterized by high degree safety of use. They are synthesized by the breakdown of protein or amino acid compounds, so their composition is pure from harmful substances... They do not have a toxic effect, do not cause allergic reactions. The use of these amino acid compounds is not addictive.

The most important distinctive feature and, as studies have shown, the huge advantage of peptides in the composition cosmetics before amino acids and protein is that they have optimal size and a complex enough structure for quick penetration into skin and the most effective impact on biochemical processes in cells. Amino acids are too small and simple in structure, therefore, penetrating the skin, they are practically unable to provide the desired effect. Protein molecules, on the other hand, are quite complex in structure, but too large to easily enter the cells of the skin.

The mechanism of action of the peptides is very interesting. It can be described as follows:

• Once in the cell nucleus, peptides contribute to the production of genetic elements that are responsible for cell multiplication. They regulate the required rate of stem cell division.
• The effect of peptides on young cells is manifested in information, i.e. peptides encode them to perform certain functions and ensure the correct development.
• Mature cells are provided with a set of receptors and enzymes necessary for proper functioning, i.e. peptides regulate their metabolism, increasing the phase of active work.
• By increasing the activity of intracellular systems, cell survival increases. In general, peptide compounds provide an optimal ratio of cells per different stages their life cycle, i.e. dividing, maturing, actively functioning, as well as dying off.
• All this leads to improved microcirculation, improved delivery of nutrients.
• Also, the cells start restructuring their own collagen. Fibroblast functionality is gradually activated, which slows down tissue aging. The production of pigment is blocked, which reduces the severity of age-related pigmentation. Decreases activity sebaceous glands, which has a beneficial effect on the purity of the skin, acne is eliminated, oily sheen disappears.
• The peptides reduce the destructive effects of interleukin 1, a hormone-like protein.
• As a result, the skin rejuvenates, many cosmetic problems disappear.

Peptides are injected into the skin in several ways:

1. Mesotherapy... Conducted in conditions professional salon... A peptide preparation is injected into the upper layers of the skin through a thin needle. Suitable for young skin. It is not advisable to carry out the procedure for girls under 18 years of age. The course consists of 5 sessions, between which there is a pause of 9-11 days. The total cost of mesotherapy is from 15,000 rubles. The result is getting rid of small wrinkles, increasing the elasticity of the skin, improving their color.
2. Biorevitalization... The method of administration is similar to mesotherapy. The difference is that during biorevitalization, the drug is injected much deeper into skin tissue... Characterized by more high efficiency... Eliminates for short terms even deep wrinkles, scars, tightens the contour of the face. The minimum cost of a course of 5 procedures is 35,000 rubles. The method is not suitable for everyone. Indicated for women over 35 years old.
3. External processing method... This is the easiest way that does not require a visit to the salon. For its implementation, cream, serum or other peptide cosmetics are used. Differs in the least efficiency in comparison with mesotherapy and biorevitalization, but it is the most affordable. After the treatment of the skin, the peptides are not fully absorbed into the epidermis, but they solve many cosmetic problems, in particular, prevent premature aging. For improved permeability useful components develop special compounds with hydrophobic groups or solvents.

Peptides in cosmetics: harm and benefit

Cosmetics with peptides are called "dermal reductants". They are based on biologically active ingredients, which are able to freely penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, to influence the receptors of cells, launching the entire complex of their regenerative resources. What else is influenced by short chains of amino acids, are they always useful and safe - it's time to talk about the beneficial properties and possible contraindications peptides in cosmetics.

Useful properties of peptide cosmetics

The role of peptides for skin health is great, because many without them natural processes at the cellular level are simply impossible. Their main functions are as follows:

• Regeneration of skin tissues... The recovery processes take place rather quickly, because peptides are able to recognize places where damage occurs, where skin cells are damaged. Also, these structural elements of the protein are actively involved in their direct restoration and eliminate inflammation.
• Strengthening the top layer of the skin... The action of peptides leads to an increase in the tone of the skin.
• Improving nutrition... Normalization of the structure and functionality of cells leads to the establishment of the provision of their nutrients... The skin gets required amount oxygen, minerals, vitamins, moisture.
• Enhancement protective functions skin... The strengthened dermis becomes less susceptible to various harmful effects external factors, whether it be an action free radicals or mechanical impact.
• Achieving a cosmetic effect... Peptides are able to relieve the tension of facial muscles, which leads to a gradual smoothing of the skin, elimination of superficial wrinkles. Collagen synthesis is normalized, which provides a tightening effect. Improving blood flow and microcirculation of substances in cells leads to the elimination of darkening under the eyes, edema, irritation. Gradually fade away dark spots... A clear anti-aging effect is visible. Oily sheen disappears.

In general, the value of cosmetics with peptides lies in the normalization of the vital activity of each cell, prevention of tissue aging, and ensuring the safety of genetic material. In this regard, peptides are incredibly useful and extremely necessary for the rehabilitation of the skin after some cosmetic procedures, for example, laser processing, chemical peeling, as well as various kinds of operations. They bring great benefits and a huge cosmetic effect in the fight against post-acne marks.

Harm and contraindications to the use of cosmetics with peptides

Cream with peptides, peptide preparations for mesotherapy and biorevitalization, given their potential effectiveness, attract a lot of attention of women who want to get at their disposal a formula for preserving youth and beauty. However, is everything so simple and safe, are there any restrictions on the use of these miracle remedies - important questions, to which you need to know the answer before a salon procedure or buying a drug for home use.

The circumstances are such that, despite the hypoallergenicity and purity of the composition of the peptides, their use is limited by several contraindications.

So, you can not use dermal reductants in the presence of such diseases:

1. Benign or malignant neoplasms;
2. Diabetes;
3. Psoriasis;
4. Rheumatoid arthritis;
5. Obesity;
6. Infectious diseases.

Separately, it should be said about individual intolerance. Perhaps this or that peptide is not capable of causing allergic reactions, but after all, it is not used in its pure form, but for the convenience of use and to increase the shelf life, it is combined with other ingredients, which, individually or in combination, can cause negative manifestations on the part of the body.

Do not be afraid of an overdose of peptides, because the resulting excess of short chains will be split into amino acids.

Cosmetic preparations with peptides can cause, albeit very rarely, some side effects. In the overwhelming majority of cases, this does not apply to drugs for external use, but to substances that are injected with a needle during a mesotherapy or biorevitalization session. So, injection therapy leads to short-term swelling, redness, the appearance of papules, which usually dissolve on their own 4-5 hours after the procedure.

How to choose professional cosmetics with peptides

Before thinking about how to choose cosmetics with peptides, it is worth deciding which brand can be trusted and which companies produce professional cosmetics characterized by a safe composition and high efficiency.

It is known that professional cosmetics cannot be purchased in regular stores. The cost of such funds cannot be low, because dozens of specialists are working on their development different spheres, dermatologists, chemists, cosmetologists, technologists, etc., and expensive substances and technologies are used to create them.

If speak about salon procedures, then the choice of the manufacturer and the specific dermal reductant rests on the shoulders of the cosmetologist performing mesotherapy or biorevitalization. Having got to good specialist, you can rely on his opinion and experience.

Criteria for choosing professional peptide cosmetics:

• Manufacturer... Speaking about home use products, you need to understand that purchasing professional cosmetics with peptides should begin with the selection of the manufacturer. On the official website you can get comprehensive information on each company. Manufacturers with extensive experience have a wide range of products.
• Appointment... Choose a cream according to your skin type.
• Functionality... Clearly define what problems the cream should solve, what main tasks should be performed, for example, moisturizing, cleansing, protecting, rejuvenating, toning, whitening.
• Composition... It is important to study the composition of a cosmetic product. A high-quality cream with peptides can contain various extracts, refined oils, vitamins, bioactive complexes. In this case, the amount of excipients should be minimal.
• Availability of certificates... Don't forget that testimony High Quality and the effectiveness declared by the manufacturer, as well as the safety of use is the availability of quality certificates.

Varieties of peptides and their characteristics

It is worth dwelling in more detail on such criteria as the composition of cosmetics with peptides. There are so many types of peptide compounds, there are so many functions. Some of them are intertwined and duplicated, but still there is some kind of differentiation.

Here is a list of the most commonly used peptides in cosmetics and describe their main properties:

1. Clotorfin... Stimulates the synthesis of elastin, triggers the mechanism of its correct assembly, which provides a lifting effect.
2. DKI... Slows down the process premature aging, helps to moisturize the epidermis, restores tone. Often used as a pre-peel preparation or laser resurfacing funds, because is able to prevent the appearance of scars and irritation after these procedures.
3. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5... This peptide complex is the most attractive for cosmetologists, because it is multifunctional. Perfectly penetrates the skin, quickly activates synthesis collagen fibers and mucopolysaccharides. Increases the elasticity of the dermis. Stimulates regenerative resources, ensuring rapid regeneration of connective tissue, vascular walls... It is effective in strengthening the skin and in the fight against even deep wrinkles.
4. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)... Refers to regulatory peptides, because participates in regulation and restoration useful proteins elastin, collagen, which are the building blocks of the skin. Improves significantly appearance skin.
5. Hexapeptide-3 acetate (argireline)... Blocks the neurotransmitter catecholamine, which is responsible for nerve impulses. Relieves muscle spasm, tension of facial muscles, than eliminates fine wrinkles... The effect of hexapeptide-3 acetate is comparable to that of botulinum toxin, but does not have such side effect like a "mask".
6. Aqua-dextran-nonapeptide-1 (melanostatin-5TM)... Brightens the skin, removes age spots.
7. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3... Effectively absorbed by the skin. the base - part of immunoglobulin G - is attached to hexadecanoic acid. This complex is made from rice and soy. The main action is aimed at neutralizing inflammatory processes and activating protective functions. Useful action also expressed in moisturizing, increasing elasticity, eliminating dark circles and swelling under the eyes.
8. Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (ridin)... Inhibits inflammatory processes, optimizes the amount of cytokines, rejuvenates the skin.
9. Acetyl octapeptide-3 (New snap-8)... Destabilizes long chain protein, which is responsible for muscle contraction, thereby helping to smooth wrinkles. The relaxing effect is higher than that of argireline.

Should I use cosmetics with peptides?

Considering the size and structure of peptides, cosmetics that include them in the composition are more effective than the sensational products with elastin and collagen in the composition. As mentioned earlier, peptide molecules penetrate better through the stratum corneum of the skin.

Cream with peptides for the face, according to numerous studies of European and American scientists, has a deep effect that can not only provide cosmetic effect for a certain period, as inexpensive creams, but also guarantee the smooth operation of cells for a long time.

The highest efficiency is achieved with the timely start of use. Until about 35 years of age, the body independently synthesizes necessary substances... After this age, the aging process accelerates significantly. Tissue cell maintenance should begin prior to this period.

Some researchers believe that dermal reductants are not able to exhibit the beneficial features and only have a placebo effect. Others stand aside.

In conditions of controversy, it is worth relying on reviews of real buyers who have been using peptides for the face and body for a long period. The network has numerous responses from women who preferred the use of dermal reductants to expensive botulinum toxin injections and cheap creams and received desired effect rejuvenation without side effects.

Creams such as Resist Intensive repair cream, New line, Mizon peptide ampoule cream, Laura, DNC, Echoice, Sengara, Idealia Vichy have become very popular.

What are face peptides - watch the video:

It is noteworthy that the demand for safe rejuvenation and the maintenance of high functionality of all body systems is growing every day. At the moment, in addition to cosmetics, there are peptide preparations for internal use. According to their developers, they are able to slow down the aging process throughout the body as a whole.

What is the difference between amino acids, proteins and peptides?
Among the ingredients that have so significantly expanded the possibilities of cosmetics, in last years a special place is occupied by peptides - substances that, allegedly, can act on the cellular and even molecular level regulating various physiological processes in the skin. It is not surprising that many consider peptide cosmetics to be the golden key that will open up new impressive prospects for cosmetologists in the fight against wrinkles and others. aesthetic concerns skin. What explains the power of peptides? And are not the statements about their extraordinary properties yet another publicity stunt? And also, what is the difference between peptides and proteins, which seem to be similar to peptides, but do not cause such a stir.

From a chemical point of view, both proteins and peptides are chains of amino acids linked together. Moreover, one amino acid is just an amino acid, but two amino acids joined together are called a peptide. But if such a chain is very long - more than 100 amino acids - this is already a protein. In a chain of peptides, amino acids are similar to the letters of the alphabet - it all depends on which amino acids and in what sequence are included in the chain. It is enough to change one letter in the word, and the meaning will change - we will have a new protein. The situation is exactly the same with peptides.

The terminology in cosmetology is slightly different from that used by chemists. Here, peptides usually mean very short chains of amino acids - in the region of 10 amino acids. Instead of the chemical name of peptides, advertising texts usually use just the word peptide with a prefix indicating the number of amino acids: dipeptide (two amino acids), tripeptide (three), tetrapeptide (four), pentapeptide (five), hexapeptide (six), etc. Strictly speaking, this is wrong, since under the same word, say, "hexapeptide", different substances can be hidden.

Proteins and peptides in cosmetology Proteins such as collagen, keratin, elastin have been used in cosmetology for a long time. But peptides began to be used relatively recently. And just as a rising star often outshines an aging diva, peptides threaten to completely outshine proteins in the cosmetic scene. Is this just a novelty effect, or do peptides really offer something new compared to proteins? Let's compare.First of all, the main problem with proteins is their big sizes, which exclude the penetration of these molecules through the stratum corneum of the skin. Even in protein hydrolysates, which are usually used in cosmetics, fragments are too large to be considered penetrating into the skin. On the contrary, peptides, which are orders of magnitude smaller than proteins, are already able to pass through the stratum corneum and reach the layer of living cells.Many proteins lose their properties in cosmetic formulation. On the contrary, peptides are very stable.

Proteins are species-specific, so, say, fish or bird collagen will not "work" in the human body until it is disassembled into individual amino acids and the "correct" collagen is built from them. But peptides, as a rule, are universal.But most importantly, what makes peptides so interesting ingredients this is that many of them have regulatory properties, that is, they are able to influence the behavior of living cells. Theoretically, by choosing the right combination of peptides, it is possible to control the processes taking place in the skin in the same way as the puppeteer controls his puppets by pulling the strings. Of course, cosmetology has not yet reached such heights, however, what has already been achieved is impressive. Let's look at the possibilities of peptides using examples of existing ingredients.

Where do peptides come from?

The easiest way to get peptides is to take protein and cut it into smallest pieces... If the correct protein is taken (which contains desired sequence amino acids), then among the set of the resulting pieces will be the peptides we need. For example, GHK copper-containing peptides are commonly produced by the breakdown of soy protein. Sometimes the words “cream contains biologically active peptides” only mean that the cream contains protein hydrolysates with unknown composition and activity. It is enough to be convinced of this by looking at the list of ingredients.

A more complicated and expensive way is the artificial synthesis of the peptide. But this method allows you to get pure peptides with guaranteed concentration and activity.

Conclusion The most important distinction peptides from amino acids and proteins in cosmetics is that peptides have specific, reliable and measurable biological activity. Although both proteins and amino acids are active in the body, from a cosmetic point of view, proteins are too large to penetrate the skin and amino acids are too simple to be active in a cosmetic composition. Peptides, on the other hand, are small enough to speak of penetration through the skin, and their structure is already complex enough to influence physiological processes. In addition, they are non-toxic, have a high chemical purity (at least those that are synthesized rather than obtained by protein breakdown), and huge intellectual resources are invested in their development. Before a peptide is released to the market, its properties are extensively studied - in cells, tissue cultures and on the skin of volunteers. This is what allows us to call peptides the most promising ingredients of today, and most likely tomorrow.