The oldest form of clothing in the history of fashion. History of the development of fashion: how did fashion come about? Fashion as a social phenomenon, a combination of styles in clothes

How is it that trends are repeated in the collections of different designers - do they agree in advance? And if there weren't all these fashion houses and numerous clothing manufacturers, then there wouldn't be fashion either, and everyone would walk the same? How did fashion come about: did it exist in the old days or is it a new invention? The answers to these questions make you look at a frivolous, fickle phenomenon with a more respectful look.

In the late Middle Ages in Western Europe an unprecedented situation arose up to that time: there were a lot of all kinds of cuts and names of the costume. Representatives of the upper classes were no longer content with simple and uniform clothes, which remained unchanged for a long time. In accordance with the new trend, every self-respecting person of noble birth tried to stand out and in every possible way emphasize his dignity in accordance with the then standards of beauty.

The alleged reason for the emergence of such a costume variety is the weakening of the influence of church dogmas. A place for earthly, worldly values ​​is found in spiritual culture, which means that the history of the development of fashion begins to go in a new direction. The cult of the Beautiful Lady, court etiquette, and courtly literature took shape. Physical beauty ceases to be considered a sinful phenomenon, and they tend to emphasize it with a variety of outfits.

Combination rules various subjects clothes in one suit began to be called "fashion" (from Lat. modus - measure, image, method, rule, norm). These rules, the characteristics of fashion were created by the aristocrats for the aristocrats, but they began to imitate the rich townspeople. This violation of class norms caused a wave of prohibitions. It got to the point of ridiculousness: in state decrees regarding the fashion industry, the length of the train, the height of the headdress, the features of cut and decor, allowed for representatives of different classes, were regulated. This was the birth of fashion in European civilization.

Fashion as a social phenomenon, a combination of styles in clothes

Since its inception, fashion has played the role of a social marker. Long time it separated aristocrats from commoners. Within the high society, their trendsetters gradually emerged, mostly with great political weight. So, in France, during the reign of the young king Louis XIV, semi-childish clothing became popular, and the courtiers wore it with all seriousness, thereby expressing loyal feelings. The influence of fashion forced them to show their belonging to a certain group and loyalty to it.

This function has been retained to this day. Many sociologists consider it precisely the need to express their belonging to a certain social group generator, engine, the main characteristic of the fashion. According to this theory, no one invents fashion. How did fashion come about? It emerged by itself as a kind of social phenomenon.

This theory of fashion history is supported by observation of groups of adolescents. It is extremely important for them to be accepted in the peer group. Teens form groups according to different criteria: fans musical groups and directions, lovers of computer games or extreme species sports or just a group of friends living in the same yard. Each teenage group there may be its own "dress code", its own characteristic of fashion, reliably separating "us" from "strangers".

Especially bright is the fashion as social phenomenon presented in the clothing of youth subcultures. Currently, these are anime fans, goths, emo, parkour lovers. Twenty or thirty years ago they were rockers, metalheads. Even earlier, hippies, dudes. In every generation there are similar associations of young people. They appear in any society where there is an opportunity to freely express their will, and are limited to one generation. Often a combination of styles in clothing is used, and sometimes it becomes impossible to determine which subculture a particular young person belongs to.

As teenagers grow up, for them it becomes more important is belonging to other groups with different dress codes. And now ex-teens dress like students, then like young professionals, businessmen, leaders, like the parents of the next generation of children. These children, in turn, will create their own groups and their own fashion. Fashion as a social phenomenon will continue to develop in a spiral, and after a while it will return to its previous stage.

Designers and fashion influence

Fashion designers and manufacturers are just using trends that already exist in society. For example, there are clothing brands that specialize in teenage subcultures. The task of designers is to understand the philosophy and visual preferences of a relatively large group of teenagers and to come up with clothes, shoes, accessories that will be in demand among this category of young people.

For clothing, footwear and accessories manufacturers, fashion is the wind that fills the sails of the fashion industry. It cannot be said about a sailboat that it creates the wind, but it moves with the help of this wind, and thanks to the sailboat, the element becomes visible and useful.

Fashion- This is an industry in which substantial money is circulating, and no one wants to risk it in vain. If what the designers offer does not find a response from consumers, then the manufacturer will suffer losses, including ruin. So all designers try to minimize risks and make most of the collection in such a way as to guess the demand. And here we come close to the question, where do the expectations of the public come from?

There are various social factors that shape fashion trends. The influence of fashion in the most general terms can be described with the words "people's way of life and their actual needs." In other words, it is we who are shaping the fashion without realizing it. We shape our lives by where we go, where we work, with whom we communicate, how we have fun, whom we adore or hate, what we talk about, what films and programs we watch, what we read, what forums we sit on and what we discuss. In all this seething environment, you can catch the popular important topics, they form the basis new fashion... You just need to transfer it from one language to another. This is where professional fashion forecasters come in.

Fashion forecasting

There are several approaches to fashion forecasting. One of them is formal and scientific. It is based on an understanding of fashion cycles. Observing the change in fashion over the years allowed us to collect extensive statistical material and reveal large and small periods of return of certain suit silhouettes, colors, as well as separately the shape of the sleeve, collar, shoes, size and location of parts, etc. This allows you to form a certain base based on the so-called fashion forecasting. Return of course fashionable forms it is not a literal repetition of what happened. Each time you have to guess what the old trend should look like in a changed world. And this requires a good instinct from a fashion forecasting specialist.

Another approach (however, it perfectly complements the first) is the observation of society. The sharpest trends are not born in the workshops of designers or on the catwalks. So, Mary Quant once saw what girls from the working-class suburbs of London wear to dance, and "invented" a mini-skirt.

Of course, not every tendency is “stealing” from the people. But this is a mandatory observation. Trend catchers go to iconic clubs and restaurants; they watch popular films and know which category A films are currently in production; they read best-selling books and popular bloggers; travel to fashionable countries.

They also try to understand what will be interesting and important after society gets tired of the current fashion.

This is the highest class of fashion forecasting work - science on the verge of intuition or intuition on the verge of science. You don’t have to be seven inches in the forehead to predict that the Sochi Olympics will generate a surge of interest in everything Russian in the world. Such predictions are obvious. But find the antithesis to popular topic and to formulate it is a good task that only a few can solve.

The results of the work of leading specialists in fashion forecasting are published in the form of booklets, which can only be purchased by representatives of the upper segment of the fashion industry. And the point here is not in the high price, but in the fact that this is closed information, which they try not to bring to the broad masses. There are simpler options, they are more accessible and widespread, but the forecast level in them is a class lower. And some clothing manufacturers, without further ado, simply copy the collections of leading brands. That's the whole secret of the "conspiracy" of designers.

The history of destructive fashion is not a subject that can be covered in one paragraph. At all times neither acrid odors, neither harm to health nor other dangers stopped people in pursuit of beauty. Until the 20th century, some fashion trends tended to kill fashionistas. What people have not done over the centuries to achieve their cherished goal - to become beautiful. Here are 15 examples of such sacrifices for the sake of fashion and beauty.

15. Lead face wash

Today, good physical condition and a light tan are considered a sign of well-being. And in Elizabethan times it is deadly pale skin was an undoubted sign of wealth and nobility. Only the poor lingered outside long enough to get a tan. In order to show that they can afford to stay indoors all day long and not tan one iota, the ladies smeared their faces with white paste. Enough thick layer white also hid pockmarks and scars.

Unfortunately, the makeup contained lead and, after long exposure, damaged the skin, and it took more and more layers to hide the imperfections. Lead penetrated the skin and caused poisoning, which led to weight loss, hair loss, damage to the brain and other organs, paralysis, and many other serious illnesses. Maria, Duchess of Coventry, died at the age of 27 from the side effects of this fatal dangerous agent with the romantic name "Venetian white".

14. Radioactive cosmetics

13. Koturny

It is believed that womens shoes on the platform, or koturny, first appeared among prostitutes in Venice. This strange shoes, whose height reached forty-five centimeters, raised the woman above the street mud and made her gait attractive to potential clients. Later, koturny began to be worn and ordinary people and know. They were especially popular among aristocrats in Italy and the Ottoman Empire. The contours indicated the wealth of the owner, and the fact that he did not need to work and, in general, even really walk.
It was almost impossible to walk in such shoes without support, so noble townspeople used the services of a maid. And the less noble - with a cane or a stick. The church strongly supported the wearing of such shoes, because a woman could not dance in them, and in general she could not do much. Later, these shoes were banned, as women often fell because of them and broke their legs.

12. Corsets

As soon as a thin waist and a fragile silhouette became fashionable, women began to go to extremes. Long diets and tight corsets worked wonders ... Ladies, of course, were the main consumers of corsets, but men also resorted to them and squeezed their insides. This is not a figure of speech. Tight corsets, often made of metal plates, physically pushed organs from the waist to the lower regions, deforming them and causing terrible torture. Strong pressure on internal organs had terrible consequences: the corset pressed on the liver, stomach, kidneys and disturbed blood circulation. Fashion victims began to have problems with digestion and fertility. It was said that four out of five women died from wearing a corset.

The male corset imitated a carapace, most often it was made of metal, sometimes leather, and covered the entire body, could easily save from a sword blow. From the second half of the 15th century, women's corsets began to be made of leather with metal bars. Holes were made in the corset for air access; when the corset was pulled together, the edges of these holes painfully cut into the body. Later models were made from whalebone, which destroyed not only the bodies of corset lovers, but also killed many defenseless whales. Sharp whales often pierce the skin, causing fatal infections.

You don't need to be a medic to understand the harm women's health and the health of future children (the corset was worn before a certain period and pregnant women) applied this fashion element wardrobe. In the 19th century, the century of emancipation, the famous writer Georges Sand spoke out against corsets, which she called an instrument of slavery. She attracted attention to the problem by the fact that she herself wore a man's suit - comfortable and practical.

Doctors of all countries have pointed to Negative influence corsets, and after the First World War, unnaturally tightening female body a dress comes to corsets loose fit... And in 1947, Christian Dior returns the popularity of the corset, but this is a completely different corset - giving grace, but not killing.

11. Grinding teeth

The ideals of beauty change depending on the era. The concept of beauty is influenced by cultural characteristics, beliefs and traditions, the level of economic development. In some countries, people sacrifice comfort and health for the sake of beauty, endure pain and discomfort in order to get closer to the ideal accepted in society, but in some Asian and African countries there are interesting customs who make victims of beauty out of local beauties. In Indonesia, teeth are sharpened to resemble sharks, while Dayaks, on the contrary, completely grind their fangs, trying not to resemble animals. Incredibly, these customs have not sunk into oblivion, they say, and today you can see these "beauties". But sharpened teeth, devoid of enamel - this is the purest suicide, an open door for infection and contamination.

10. Black teeth

Defiantly white teeth are a purely American weakness. The ancients were not very worried about the color of tooth enamel - all the same, few people had teeth for longer than up to 40 years. In addition, if you do not eat sugar (and they did not eat), then the teeth will not deteriorate so quickly and are unlikely to darken.
Elizabeth I in England was among the first to learn about the dangers of sugar - her teeth were rotten and blackened. Taking it for fashion trend, wanting to imitate this beauty, some courtiers also began to stain their teeth black. But this fashion was short-lived, as people quickly realized that black teeth meant bad teeth.
In Japan, the tradition of blackening teeth with varnish is called ohaguro (お 歯 黒, literally “black teeth”) and was popular until the Meiji period. Black varnish on the teeth began to be considered beautiful and sophisticated, but it also had a utilitarian purpose - the varnish made up for the lack of iron and helped keep teeth healthy. Ohaguro was associated with married women who compared the color fastness of their teeth to endless loyalty to their husbands. In 1870, an order was issued prohibiting members of the imperial family and nobility from making ohaguro. After the law came into force, the people of ohaguro gradually became obsolete. Today, ohaguro can only be found in traditional theater, in a 1960s historical drama, or in motion pictures.

9. Inlaid smile

It would seem that the tradition of decorating teeth with diamonds and expensive metals is a newfangled tradition. However, if you look into history, it becomes clear that this is the most ancient human whim. As early as 2000 years ago, Mayan dentists gave their patients dazzling smiles. Instead of trivial whitening, they offered this therapy: they drilled small holes in the teeth and inserted precious stones. Once, inlays were found in teeth belonging to a five-year-old child.
The obsidian drill, of course, completely destroyed tooth enamel... You need to be a real expert in this matter to know when to stop drilling in order to avoid disturbance in the pulp. If such a violation does occur, the risk of infection cannot be avoided.
Some of the first dental jewelry was found in Egypt, where Jewelry at all times were considered indicators of high status and wealth. The nobility tried to decorate not only her clothes, but also her body and teeth with pearls, diamonds and gold. The technology was a little more complicated than that of Maya: a recess was carved into the tooth and cemented. mineral solution, on which a gem or gold jewelry was superimposed.
Nowadays, the range of services of dental clinics often includes such a service as dental jewelry. Various twinkles (jewelry made of metal) or skays (jewelry made of semi-precious or precious stones) - everything that the soul can only wish for and allow the wallet. And now it is possible to do without the barbaric destruction of the tooth when decorating it.

8. Bike fashion

Sometimes tragedies happen when people can't afford "haute couture" and take something cheaper in return. The Victorians dreamed of flannel nightgowns and pajamas, but could not afford them. Dyke nightgowns made from plant fibers (not wool) seemed ideal to them. Do not forget that both men and women wore them, and respectable spouses entered into a conjugal relationship exclusively dressed in long nightgowns.
The only problem with the bike was that it burns well and ignites quickly. And the candle flame was the only way to light their way at night ... so that when dressed in a pair of nightwear pajamas, with a candle in hand, people quite often became living torches. Attempts have been made to make pajama materials less hazardous, but no attempt has been truly effective. Many children and adults burned down along with their homes until the "bike fashion" fire was extinguished.

7. Eye drops with belladonna

Belladonna (atropa belladonna or belladonna) is a very poisonous plant, its juice causes hallucinations. Such a poisonous plant got an incredibly romantic name ("bella donna" in Italian means "a beautiful lady." ). Venetians started adding belladonna juice to their eye drops and felt very attractive. They thought that a large pupil mimics natural attraction and makes them more alluring. Less appealing side effects were distorted vision, inability to concentrate, arrhythmias, and heart problems. Some argued that the drops could make the woman of fashion completely blind. Beauty requires sacrifice!

6. Skirt - pencil ("lame skirt")

When Mrs. Hart O. Berg was the first woman to board the plane, she was faced with a juicy problem. The Wright brothers' plane was completely exposed to all winds, and her voluminous skirts rose up in the most immodest way. In addition, a real disaster could have happened due to her rags, as the screws and chains were very close. To address these issues, she tied a rope around the bottom of the skirt. This is how the "lame skirt" or pencil skirt appeared, which became an instant hit. She limited the step when walking and made the ladies mince. One woman who was trying to climb over the gate of a farm in a fashionable skirt fell and broke her ankle, so badly that she died of septic shock.

There is, however, another theory of the appearance of this fashionable item: it seems that Mr. Paul Poiret is the inventor of the lame "hobble skirt" in 1910. This is an ankle-length skirt, intercepted in the hem or under the knee with a narrow strip of fur or a kind of cuff, and so as not to tear the fabric, the calves were tied with a special wide ribbon, which limited the step.
But the first story is much more romantic.

5. Green dresses with arsenic

During the reign of Queen Victoria, when clothes did not abound in many shades, the emergence of a new bright dye caused a real madness among notorious fashionistas. In 1775, Karl Schmele (Schiel) invented a green pigment that was superior in almost every respect to the old ones. True, this dye posed a danger, and not so much for fashionistas, as for those who were engaged in sewing and dyeing clothes, since it contained arsenic.
Outfits made of green fabric were very expensive, and they were ordered, as a rule, only for any special, solemn occasions and were worn extremely rarely. The tailors who worked on the creation of the fabric and the dresses themselves put themselves at great risk and were all poisoned by arsenic. Needless to say, the tissues soaked in this solution were slowly killing their masters as well.

4. Deformation of the skull

In ancient times, people deliberately deformed the soft skulls of babies, using various devices, and until recently, many peoples of the world had a cruel tradition of changing the shape of the head of children. The elongated shape of the head was generally considered beautiful. From childhood, children were tightly tied around their foreheads and temples with a rope or planks were bandaged.

Similar customs existed among different nations, geographically very distant from each other. Scientists find elongated skulls in Egypt, Mexico, Peru, Malta, northern Iraq and Syria. Traditionally, such changes in skulls are associated with the customs of people who belonged to the castes of rulers or priests. How did the deformation of the skull affect the state of the brain? Of course, she simply killed most of the children!

3. Burning wigs

The 18th century went golden for wigs and hair designs. In french high society the level of the art of creating hairstyles has become incredibly sophisticated and increased. They used their own real hair, and various overlays that were invented by hairdressers (horsehair, human hair, feathers smeared with lipstick, satin ribbons and much more). These delights were added to towers almost half a meter high. Hairstyles were not taken apart for the night, not washed for weeks, and there, of course, almost rats started up. But worse than the itch and odor, there was a risk of accidentally catching fire. After all, it is extremely difficult to control the dimensions of such a hairstyle, passing by the candles. One touch of the flame - and the whole structure is on fire, killing both the lice and the lady.

2. Crinolines

Crinoline was a rigid frame that great-great-grandmothers wore under dresses to give the figure a shape. hourglass... It was a rather uncomfortable structure - a heavy and cumbersome contraption, two meters in diameter, which made it difficult to pass through doors and sit on a chair. The crinoline was tied to the legs at knee level, which created considerable difficulties when walking, but the skirts did not rise, but swayed regularly in time with the steps. Women had to mince their feet in order to somehow move. The crinolines were also flammable and it was easy to hook them onto the candelabrum.

1. "Chinese lotus"

The origins of the Chinese "foot bandaging", as well as the traditions of Chinese culture in general, go back to the hoary antiquity, from the 10th century. The institution of “foot bandaging” was regarded as necessary and wonderful and has been practiced for many centuries. By far, this is one of the most shocking fashion victims on our list.

In ancient China, women with small feet, which resembled a lotus to the Chinese, were considered beautiful. The custom of bandaging the feet of Chinese girls looked something like this: a child's leg is bandaged and it simply does not grow, keeping child size and shape. The ideal beauty in old China should have had lotus legs, a mincing gait, and a willow-thin figure. In old China, girls began to bandage their legs from the age of 4-5, nursing babies could not stand the agony of the tight bandages that crippled their feet. As a result, by the age of about 10, girls developed about a 10-centimeter "lotus leg". After that, they began to learn the correct "adult" gait. And after 2-3 years they were already ready-made girls "for marriageable". The dimensions of the "lotus leg" were essential condition at the conclusion of marriages, the person did not play a special role. Brides with big feet were subjected to ridicule and humiliation, as they looked like common women who worked in the fields and could not afford the luxury of bandaging their feet.

Blogger Donna Julietta writes: “Today I looked through various retro photographs that capture the history of people's lives and then thought it would be nice to see photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how interestingly fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review related to fashion by decades. I will make a reservation right away that I will not cite as an example women who were popular in certain time, it is better to give them separate attention... Let's just discuss fashion. "

(43 photos total)

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Source: Journal / make-your-style

Let's start with the 10s of the XX century.

1. Corsets held back women for years, made their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and life was harder. Impossibility once again inhale and exhale, constant diseases due to too tightly tightened "shells" - all this made the corset, though a significant item of the era, but very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses became fashionable - that is why the tenth years were remembered as the years of "liberation" of women from the oppression of one of the most uncomfortable items of dress, and Paul Poiret became a real deliverer for ladies of high society.

2. In the tenths, Russian chic was in vogue - the "Russian Seasons", which were brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were in vogue. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt art high fashion from Parisians.

3. It was then that all the familiar to us nowadays attributes of "chic life" in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.

Smoothly moving to the fashion of the 20s

4. During this period, sports entered fashion with confident steps, sports figures male type, a female forms began to gradually lose its relevance and popularity. The ideal is a slender lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called the reformer and revolutionary of the fashion of this period. Along with her in these times fashionable clothes created in such fashion houses as "Nina Ricci", "Chanel", "Madame Paquin", "Jean Patou", "Madeleine Vionne", "Jacques Doucet", "Jacques Heim", "Lucille", fur fashion house "Jacques Heim "and others.

5. Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of jewelry, embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called "Art Deco", and originated from the name of the exhibition of contemporary decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

6. It was the style of embellishment and embellishment. Decor elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

7. Shoes, decorated with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. Art Deco is an eclectic style, in which African abstraction exoticism is mixed with geometric shapes cubism; non-traditional inexpensive and simple materials mixed with dear traditional materials good quality.

8. Such a combination of incompatible, mixed in one style.

9. As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:

- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight-cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
— fashion coat straight cut tapering to the bottom and with fur collar;
- Pajama pants and pajamas, in which they went to the beach at that time, are in fashion;
- the first swimwear for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were sewn from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- in fashion sporty style, not only trousers appear, but also shorts;
- the appearance of the classic little black Chanel dress;

30s fashion

10. In these times, the cut of clothing became more complex. The quality of ready-to-wear, mass-produced, has improved markedly. Hollywood is the trendsetter in the United States. But even here firms began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These firms distributed new fashionable models in millions of copies.

11. Long skirts became the standard of fashion in the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to suggest Long Dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses extended their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached the middle of the calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends have lengthened their clothes on their own. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

12. A very popular garment of the 30s was the women's streetwear, which existed in a wide variety of versions. Outerwear - coats and jackets were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

13. For each type of clothing, including a suit, it was characteristic big variety shaped lines and finishes. The cut of the suits became more complicated, began to rely on geometry, which gives the silhouette clarity.

14. Decorative details and adornments were widely used in the costume. Hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in one colors... Accessories were chosen very strictly. They were usually black or Brown color and white in summer.

15. The accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played huge role... After all, most women of those years, except for a hat or a handbag, could not afford anything else.

40s fashion

16. The dominant fashion trend in the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, lantern sleeves. It is worth noting that at the time, striped clothing was the most popular. The war broke out and the world went into a paramilitary state, so the fashion of the 40s underwent significant changes. Women have no time to think about makeup and replenishment of their wardrobe.

17. During this period appearance outfits have been greatly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

18. Floral designs are returning to fashion: ornaments, small flowers have become the main decoration of fabric and dresses made of this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to take root in fashion. The discovery of the war period was the popular and nowadays style of "military"

19.At the same time released new model shoes: shoes with stiletto heels.

20. Another innovation was the production of turtleneck sweaters, these models with high collar under the throat they deservedly received the recognition of the fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

22. In the post-war years, social differences have become noticeably aggravated. Wives have again become a symbol of their spouses' well-being, as a kind of showcase for those around them. An obligatory ritual for every woman was to visit hairdressing salon applying makeup. An ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully equipped in the early morning: with the perfect haircut, heels and makeup, stand by the stove or vacuum the carpet.

23. Even in the Soviet Union, in which the way of life was significantly different from that of the West, it was customary to do hair styling in a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to come into fashion with particular impetuosity.

24. The 1950s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, extended shoulder silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, special requirements to the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

25. To meet these standards, women wore tight corsets, tucked cloth or cotton wool into their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of the beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Clara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

26. Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. Fashionable and stylish woman style of the 50s in silhouette resembled a flower: fluffy skirt to the floor, under which they put on a multilayer petticoat, high heels stiletto heels, seamed nylon stockings. Stockings are a must-have accessory to complete the look and are extremely expensive. But what women didn’t go to in order to look attractive and feel like beauties following fashion trends. It was problematic to buy fabrics at that time, they were released into one hands no more a certain amount, approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt for the "new silhouette", it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s were the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. A new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. 1959 saw the release of the French film Babette Goes to War with Brigitte Bardot in starring... A casually fluffed up hairstyle with a pile, despite the fact that it takes a lot of time for fashionistas to create it, is becoming super popular.

27. Accessories have become very popular: beads from large beads, voluminous jewelry, glasses "macro", which covered the floor of the face.

28. In London, the most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born - a miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, legendary Mary Quant showed the first collection of mini-length pieces. The new style, called "London style", very quickly conquered the youth of the whole world.

29. 60s - the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, since they do not wrinkle and are easily washed, in addition, they are cheap.

30. Fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of the mini length fashion and the dance style of the same name.

Fashion from the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. Hippies accentuated denial of norms with their appearance official culture... Their clothes are deliberately sloppy and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bags over the shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

31. In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, we can say that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

32. The motto of the 70s was the expression “Everything is possible!”. For the choice of progressive and active young people, couturiers presented several styles, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

33. Also in the wardrobe of women of fashion of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, dresses of the A-shaped silhouette, dress-shirts.

34. In addition, it should be noted that clothing has become more comfortable and practical. There was a concept basic wardrobe consisting of the required amount When it comes to footwear, platform shoes have become popular.

35. Of the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

36. In the fashion of the 80s, retro images intertwined, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, the continuing boom of sports.

37. Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, break dance, snowboarding, skateboarding, roller skates, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.

38. The list of iconic items from a decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari clothing, kimono, bat and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, worn denim, so-called dumplings, black leather jackets, lurex, massive jewelry, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of " wet hair», cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair decorative flowers, type "eggplant", highlighting "feathers". A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massive 1980s can be described as excessive. Everything is, as it were, "too" - too narrow, too voluminous, too catchy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes, with original elements decor: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

39. The style of the 90s in clothes, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to the choice of clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image is changing, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main appeal of the nineties is "to be what you are!" In those days, special attention was paid to denim clothes- only the lazy did not go in it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called "denim", since every person had such a thing in more than one copy.

40. In the nineties, unisex fashion spread around the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

41. Nineties - the time of sneakers and flat shoes. This unisex style is very fond of big Italian and American companies such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. The costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when along with strict asceticism in the costume there is a deliberate theatricality with a bright gamut of colors. Fashion changes depending on the social orientation and territoriality, as in Europe, bohemia prefers conceptual designer clothes.

42. The main fashionable focus of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky skin. Body culture flourishes as in the days of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and women of fashion visit not only sports clubs but also beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Runway supermodels become role models, with television and fashion magazines making a significant contribution to this.

43. Well then. This concludes my review. I would like to say that of all times, the 30s, 50s and 70s are closer to my preferences. In general, everything new is a long forgotten old.

Today I looked through various retro photographs, which capture the history of people's lives, and then I thought it would be nice to see photographs that related to fashion, to see how it changed, how, interestingly, fashionistas dressed then. And I decided, why not make a review related to fashion by decades. I will make a reservation right away that I will not cite as an example women who were popular at a certain time, it is better to pay special attention to them. Let's just discuss fashion.

Let's start with the 10s of the XX century.

Corsets held back women for years, made their figures much more beautiful and graceful, and life was harder. The inability to breathe in and out once again, constant diseases due to too tightly tightened "shells" - all this made the corset, although a significant item of the era, but very unpleasant.
Therefore, in 1906, women all over the world literally exhaled - a couturier named Paul Poiret first proposed wearing dresses of simple cut, without corsets. Very soon, such dresses became fashionable - that is why the tenth years were remembered as the years of "liberation" of women from the oppression of one of the most uncomfortable items of dress, and Paul Poiret became a real deliverer for ladies of high society.

In the 10s, Russian chic was in vogue - the Russian Seasons, which were brought to Paris by the famous Sergei Diaghilev, were a huge success. Ballet, opera, art, exhibitions - all this was accompanied by a huge number of receptions at which our ladies could adopt the art of haute couture from Parisians.

It was then that all the familiar to us nowadays attributes of "chic life" in the wardrobe began to come into fashion - women bared their shoulders, began to wear very boudoir-looking toilets, decorating them with a huge number of feather fans, precious jewelry and shiny accessories.
Smoothly moving to the fashion of the 20s

During this period, sports, male-type sports figures entered fashion with confident steps, and female forms began to gradually lose their relevance and popularity. The ideal is a slender lady with narrow hips, without the slightest hint of a bust or other roundness. The famous Gabrielle Chanel can be called the reformer and revolutionary of the fashion of this period. Along with her in these times, fashionable clothes were created in such fashion houses as Nina Ricci, Chanel, Madame Paquin, Jean Patou, Madeleine Vionne, Jacques Doucet, Jacques Heim, Lucille ", the house of fur fashion" Jacques Heim "and others.

Egyptian motifs began to come into fashion in the 1920s. The designers' models were decorative, with an abundance of jewelry, embroidery in the zig-zag style. This style was called "Art Deco", and originated from the name of the exhibition of contemporary decorative and industrial art in Paris in 1925.

It was the style of embellishment and embellishment. Decor elements were present on furniture, kitchen utensils, and women's dresses.

Shoes, decorated with embroidery or appliqués, decorated to the taste of popular couturiers of that time, came into fashion. Art Deco is an eclectic style in which African abstract exoticism is mixed with geometric forms of cubism; unconventional inexpensive and simple materials are mixed with expensive traditional materials of good quality.

Such a combination of incompatible, mixed in one style.

As a result, the fashion features of the 20s:
- the main elements of clothing are, of course, dresses, straight cut suits;
- pleating is in fashion;
- fashionable coat with a straight cut tapering to the bottom and with a fur collar;
- Pajama pants and pajamas, in which they went to the beach at that time, are in fashion;
- the first swimwear for women appeared - a revolution in beach fashion;
- clothes were sewn from more affordable fabrics and knitwear became a discovery;
- sports style is in fashion, not only trousers appear, but also shorts;
- the appearance of the classic little black Chanel dress.

30s fashion

In these times, the cut of clothing became more complex. The quality of ready-to-wear, mass-produced, has improved markedly. Hollywood is the trendsetter in the United States. But even here firms began to appear that traded using catalogs sent by mail. These firms distributed new fashionable models in millions of copies.

Long skirts became the standard of fashion in the crisis times of the thirties. In 1929, Jean Patou was the first to offer long dresses and skirts, the waistline of which was in place. After this innovation, all fashion houses extended their models in two stages. At first, the length of dresses and skirts reached the middle of the calf, and a little later dropped almost to the ankle. Ladies who follow fashion trends have lengthened their clothes on their own. They sewed on wedges and various frills.

A very popular garment of the 1930s was the women's streetwear suit, which came in a wide variety of designs. Outerwear - coats and jackets were distinguished by their extraordinary elegance and variety of styles.

Each type of clothing, including a suit, was characterized by a wide variety of shapes and finishes. The cut of the suits became more complicated, began to rely on geometry, which gives clarity to the silhouette.

Decorative details and adornments were widely used in the costume. Hat, handbag, gloves and shoes - that's what should have been in the same color scheme. Accessories were chosen very strictly. As a rule, they were black or brown, and in summer they were white.

The accessories selected in this way easily matched any dress or suit, which was relevant during the crisis. In the fashion of the 30s, accessories played a huge role. After all, most women of those years, except for a hat or a handbag, could not afford anything else.

40s fashion

The dominant fashion trend in the early 40s was multi-layered long skirts, huge bows on clothes, sometimes with the addition of vertical stripes, lantern sleeves. It is worth noting that at the time, striped clothing was the most popular. The war broke out and the world went into a militarized state, so the fashion of the 40s underwent significant changes. Women have no time to think about makeup and replenishment of their wardrobe.

During this period, the appearance of outfits was greatly simplified to minimalism in everything. Natural fabrics are no longer used for civilian purposes. Clothes for women began to be produced and sewn from acetate silk and viscose.

Floral designs are returning to fashion: ornaments, small flowers have become the main decoration of fabric and dresses sewn from this material. It became impossible to sew blouses and shirts from white fabric, so cuffs and collars began to take root in fashion. The discovery of the war period was the popular and nowadays style of "military"

At the same time, a new model of footwear was released: shoes with stiletto heels.

Another innovation was the production of turtleneck sweaters, these models with a high collar under the throat deservedly received recognition from the fashionistas of those times.

50s fashion

In the postwar years, social differences sharpened markedly. Wives have again become a symbol of their spouses' well-being, as a kind of showcase for those around them. Visiting a hairdressing salon and applying makeup has become an obligatory ritual for every woman. An ideal woman, even if she did not work anywhere and was a housewife, had to be fully equipped in the early morning: with the perfect haircut, heels and makeup, stand by the stove or vacuum the carpet.

Even in the Soviet Union, in which the way of life was significantly different from that of the West, it was customary to do hair styling in a hairdresser or perm at least once a week, which also began to come into fashion with particular swiftness.

The '50s style contrasted the hourglass silhouette with the crisp, wide-shouldered silhouette that was popular during the war years. Thus, special requirements were imposed on the figure: sloping shoulders, thin waist, rounded feminine hips and lush breasts.

To meet these standards, women wore corsets, tucked cloth or cotton into their bras, and tightened their bellies. The images of the beauty of those times were: Elizabeth Taylor, Lyubov Orlova, Sophia Loren, Clara Luchko, Marilyn Monroe.

Among the young population, the standards were Lyudmila Gurchenko and others. A fashionable and stylish woman of the 1950s style resembled a flower in silhouette: a fluffy floor-length skirt, under which they put on a multilayer petticoat, high heels with stiletto heels, nylon stockings with a seam. Stockings are a must-have accessory to complete the look and are extremely expensive. But what women didn’t go to in order to look attractive and feel like beauties following fashion trends. It was problematic to buy fabrics at that time, they were released into one hands no more than a certain amount approved by the norms of those times. To sew one skirt for the "new silhouette", it took from nine to forty meters of material!

60s fashion

The legendary 60s were the brightest decade in the history of world fashion, free and expressive, a period of solemn procession of the so-called youth fashion. A new style needed new hairstyles. And again London was ahead of Paris in terms of innovative ideas. In 1959, the French film Babette Goes to War was released with Brigitte Bardot in the title role. A casually fluffed up hairstyle with a pile, despite the fact that it takes a lot of time for fashionistas to create it, is becoming super popular.

Accessories became very popular: beads made of large beads, voluminous jewelry, "macro", which covered the half of the face.

In London, the most scandalous clothing of the sixties was born - a miniskirt, a symbol of emancipation and the sexual revolution. In 1962, legendary Mary Quant showed the first collection of mini-length pieces. The new style, called "London style", very quickly conquered the youth of the whole world.

The 60s is the era of synthetics and everything artificial. Synthetic fabrics are widespread in mass fashion - they are considered the most comfortable and practical, since they do not wrinkle and are easy to wash, in addition, they are cheap.

The fashion of that time favored unnaturalness - false eyelashes, wigs, hairpieces, jewelry. High women's boots with low heels, with a narrow or wide rounded toe made of leather or synthetic material, called go go, are becoming super popular. Boots became widespread with the emergence of the mini length fashion and the dance style of the same name.
Fashion from the late 1960s was influenced by the hippie movement. Young people opposed social and class differences, racial discrimination and war. With their appearance, the hippies emphasized the denial of the norms of official culture. Their clothes are deliberately sloppy and even sloppy - ripped jeans, beaded bracelets, fabric bags over their shoulders. The sexlessness of the appearance is emphasized, long hair symbolizes freedom.

70s fashion

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, we can say that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction, everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The motto of the 70s was the expression “Everything is possible!”. For the choice of progressive and active young people, couturiers presented several styles, none of which could be called dominant. The most fashionable element of the wardrobe was jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were trapeze skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-shaped dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that the clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept of a basic wardrobe, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other, appeared. As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

From the designers in the 70s, Sonya Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses from woolen knitwear and mohair.

80s fashion

In the fashion of the 80s, retro images intertwined, reinterpreted by designers, as well as those born of youth subcultures, music and dance trends, and the continuing boom of sports.

Hip-hop, gothic, post-punk, rave, house, techno, break dance, snowboarding, skateboarding, roller skates, step aerobics - all these phenomena were reflected in the style of the decade.

The list of iconic items from a decade of stylistic revelry is impressive - padded shoulders, banana trousers, military and safari clothing, kimono, batwing and raglan sleeves, leggings with bright patterns, black fishnet tights, frayed denim fabric, so-called dumplings, black leather jackets, lurex, massive bijouterie, jewelry buttons on jackets, voluminous hairstyles or styling with the effect of "wet hair", cascading haircuts, spiral perm, hair of decorative flowers, such as "eggplant", highlighting " feathers ". A lot of cosmetics were used in deliberate shades with sparkles and mother-of-pearl.

The massive 1980s can be described as excessive. Everything is, as it were, "too" - too narrow, too voluminous, too catchy, too bright. In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decor elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

90s fashion

The style of the 90s in clothes, which has become universal, is better called not a style, but a new approach to the choice of clothes. Because in the fashion of the 90s, the very principle of creating your image is changing, as well as the principle used in creating a costume. The main appeal of the nineties is "to be what you are!" In those days, special attention was paid to denim clothing - only the lazy did not go in it. Avid fashionistas managed to wear jeans with denim shirts, bags and boots. So the style of the 90s can be safely called "denim", since every person had such a thing in more than one copy.

In the nineties, unisex fashion spread around the world: jeans with a T-shirt or loose-fitting trousers with a sweater, complemented by comfortable shoes.

Nineties - the time of sneakers and flat shoes. This unisex style is very fond of big Italian and American companies such as Banana Republic, Benetton, Marko Polo. The costumes strive for simplicity and functionality, which, however, revives the traditions of partner art, when along with strict asceticism in the costume there is a deliberate theatricality with a bright gamut of colors. Fashion changes depending on the social orientation and territoriality, as in Europe, bohemia prefers conceptual designer clothes.

The main fashionable focus of the nineties is not on clothes, but on its owner. A fashionable look is created by a slender figure with tanned or milky skin. Body culture flourishes as in the days of Ancient Greece. Fashionistas and women of fashion not only visit sports clubs that have appeared thanks to, but also actively visit beauty parlors and even use the services of plastic surgery. Runway supermodels become role models, with television and fashion magazines making a significant contribution to this.

Well. This concludes my review. I would like to say that of all times, the 30s, 50s and 70s are closer to my preferences. In general, everything new is a long forgotten old.

Throughout the history of human civilization, perhaps no other component has reflected so colorfully the characteristics of the era as the history of the creation of fashion. And if at the dawn of the emergence of mankind, clothes were of a purely practical purpose, then quite soon an aesthetic component was added to the traditional protective function. The history of the emergence of fashion for Western civilization can be attributed to the Roman era. The Romans not only continue the ancient Egyptian tradition of dedicating different colors of clothing to different deities, but also bring to color palette class color - noble purple, for example, could only be worn by patricians. The first example was also the Roman toga - in the Senate, court and at the stadium, the Romans could only appear in togas. Simpler togas were made of wool or linen. Silk and even gold threads were used to create more sophisticated fabrics.

After majestic Rome, the costumes of the early Middle Ages look simple and even poor. Functionality comes to the fore again. Men's and women's outfits are distinguished mainly by a long shirt. Dyes are rarely used. Clothes are made of flax, hemp and even nettle (remember Andersen's tale!) The situation is radically changed by the Crusades. It is the XI-XII centuries that most researchers associate with the history of the emergence of fashion, consider the beginning of its formation.

Medieval and Renaissance fashion

The Crusades are dramatically changing European society. It is from these times that history begins womens fashion and a female suit. Cult beautiful lady introduces the neckline, fitted dresses sleeves falling to the floor - the most feminine image is sharply dissociated from the brutal masculine. Soon in medieval fashion another tendency appears, which has been delayed for several centuries. "Inconvenient fashion" - cone-shaped headdresses, reaching a meter in length among the highest nobility, bent toes of shoes that had to be tied up, incredibly long trains- all this was intended to emphasize the status of the nobility and its exclusivity.

The Renaissance era contributes to the history of fashion and style. Jeanne of Portugal, in order to hide an illegitimate pregnancy, introduces frame skirts (at their peak, they reach 7 meters in diameter). Another fashionable element - the slits on the sleeves of the upper dress, through which the undershirt is visible - takes root in both women and men's suit... But one cannot do without fashionable curiosities - what are the Spanish puff pants, short and rounded, stuffed from the inside with tow, or huge wigs from the times of Louis XIV, in which, in addition to jewelry, one could often find insects and even mice.

Fashion of modern times

The era of bourgeois revolutions made colossal changes in the history of fashion development. Members of the Jacobin Club gave a start in life to men's trousers, the times of Napoleon brought antiquity back into fashion, and in 1880 appeared female corset... The 19th century was marked by the appearance of a jacket and an unusually high rate of change in fashion trends. For example, the history of hat fashion has recorded the change of 30 (!) Fashion models in one season. Caps, hoods, berets, turbans, bibi hats - the 19th century not only amazes with its diversity female models, but also a wide range of men's hats: from a respectable top hat to the cowboy hat that appeared in 1865. The coming XX century creates a real breakthrough in the history of world fashion. Tango and Charleston significantly cut the length and volume of dresses, flirty tulip hats are placed on short-cropped hair. And in 1926, Coco Chanel introduces the world, which marked the beginning of the history of modern fashion.