DIY Christmas dress with patterns. We sew an elegant dress for the new year for our daughter! several options for very easy sewing (every mother can handle). trendy review and ideas! Fashionable evening with an open back
Dickmy: New Year, as, indeed, all the most best events our life comes suddenly! He dissolve in a sea of troubles, new recipes, general cleaning, kilometers traveled in search of gifts, roads. It often happens that only on the very eve of the celebration, a few hours before the cherished 12 strokes, we remember what we will enter into this new year. And it often happens that not finding the right thing, we get upset. Panic aside! I collected as many as 10 universal advice from experts who will help you turn even the most ordinary dress from a dark corner of your closet into a chic New Year's toilet!
How to make a chic New Year's outfit out of a regular dress
1. Desert orange dress in the New Year
Winter is meant to break stereotypes! And this means that spectacular, bright, warm color your outfit is one of the most advantageous options for the New Year's celebration. In the favor of fashionistas this season - a romantic desert orange. He is a representative of the natural colors, and therefore - is positively perceived by the people around you, cheers up and causes approving smiles!
You can complement the image with a bright orange (red) scarf or scarf made of light fabric, for example, chiffon, catchy, evening makeup and expensive glasses.
2. The shine of the fabric and expensive stones- trend new year's eve
Dress, in unison with the fireworks outside the window? A dress favorably accentuated by the glow of the New Year's lights on the tree? Is this possible? Yes, easily! Shiny, pearlescent fabric, accentuated open back and frank mini, sex appeal, brilliance of diamonds - this is the key to the success of the New Year's dress and you in it! Of course, with an impeccable figure ... After all shiny fabric plump, and mini - aggravates the curvature and far from ideal, the shape of the legs.
This year, dress models with deep neckline along the back,
well, and dresses, it seems, created from the most silvery and weightless snow in the world. Modest in texture, and so inviting in their minimalist essence! However, the same mini, expensive, fashionable and natural for the New Year's holiday will look in gold. Search, measure and enjoy the anticipation!
3. Fantasy on the theme of the Christmas tree
Another inimitable outfit for a night of wish fulfillment - emerald dress echoing the main symbol of the New Year, the tree. Depending on the type of figure and appearance, personal taste, as well as the style of the intended party, you can choose from several, quite shocking options:
An evening bodycon dress to the floor with a high slit and lightweight sleeves will delight slender beauties model growth;
A light chiffon dark green dress with high-waisted straps will perfectly fit a girl with lush hips and a beautiful breast shape;
Lacy green Cocktail Dress will suit petite girls.
4. No - synthetics, yes - handmade!
Nowadays, people have learned to appreciate and notice the beauty of what is made with their own hands. Hand embroidery or crocheted dress made by a skilled dressmaker an outfit made of woolen or other natural fabric visible at once and by all. In a year that is already knocking on the door, in vogue natural tones and expensive fabrics of impeccable quality.
5. Dress for the New Year from grandmother's chest
Fashion is a living, organic thing, and therefore, like all living things, it develops in cycles and moves in a spiral. Fashion industry experts suggest that in the new winter season vintage items will be relevant. Make an audit in grandmother's closet, we are sure you will find a lot of interesting things there!
For example, a chic kremplin dress on the floor with the moon and stars on the belt. This was worn in Soviet times for evenings at cultural centers or dances.
Here's another great example. Red long dress in small white peas, lantern sleeves with cuffs at the wrists. More romantic New Year's outfit you just can't think of it!
Another New Year's vintage trend is the corset. Thin waist, accentuated by a corset, open shoulders, a delicate flower of fabric - and you are the star of the New Year's party!
6. New Year's dress for a family holiday
But what to wear if you are going, for example, to celebrate the New Year with the parents of your future husband? Or with their own, but also Puritan traditions and strict aristocratic rules? For such an evening, a long one-color is suitable, laconic dress with a minimum of decoration, but with expensive fabric. Leading for the upcoming New Year's Eve will be wool, cashmere, silk and natural velvet.
If, nevertheless, you really want to add something to your outfit, opt for lace. It will play in unison on New Year's Eve and at the same time will not go beyond good taste and impeccable taste.
7. Dresses with corsets on New Year's Eve
We have already mentioned the corset. This item female wardrobe originally from the Middle Ages. Nevertheless, it does not lose its relevance among the fair sex even now. After all, a corset is synonymous with sexuality, emphasized femininity, a way to hide flaws and profitably present advantages. In addition, dresses with corsets are relevant not only on New Year's Eve. A dinner party, a theater, even a corporate party is a great reason to wear it again!
8. Red is the trend of New Year's Eve!
Red is the color of fire, celebration, joy. He is intoxicating, dizzy, blinds eyes. He - main color New Year's celebration. The advantage of a red New Year's dress is that it never goes out of style. Indeed, for several generations of people on New Year's Eve, red lanterns are lit, decorate the house with a fiery festive tinsel and cover the table with a bright festive tablecloth. Consequently, a red floor-length dress made of shiny satin or silk, short tight-fitting wool or airy chiffon dress will evoke hundreds of compliments and smiles in your address!
9. Small black dress for the new year
But if it happened that the question with festive party made up your mind just a few hours before the New Year? Or did the guests suddenly come to you? Or suddenly the mood, which for a long December jumped between reports and problems, suddenly became wonderful, New Year's and just pushes you to arrange a holiday? But there is no dress! Special, from a dream, tried on many times? In this case, a little black dress will save the situation. If you add stones, a pearl shawl and a snow-white expensive fur coat, you will get an inimitable outfit for New Year's Eve!
10. Clothes in ethnic style for the New Year
Are you an unusual, unearthly girl, with a subtle spiritual structure, who is sickened by everything standard and generally accepted? Do you consider it your calling to break stereotypes and start with yourself? Here and before new year holidays Have you decided to decorate a palm tree with pine cones, cook a snake over coals and dance all night to the sound of maracas? Naturally, clothes should correspond to such a holiday scenario!
An excellent option for a completely non-standard New Year's Eve would be velvet dress with embroidery and bag self made in addition, or short, white, like the immaculate first snow, with Indian style embroidery.
Dickmy: Another important fashion accent is accessories. A hat, scarf, brooch or thin wrist chain will complement your new year image, will become its highlight and emphasize your individuality.
ACCESSORIES FOR DRESSES FOR NEW YEAR
Red hat with wide margins- a constant symbol of elegance, sophistication and mystery. This accessory will play a wonderful part with a little black dress, a long red dress on the floor from thick fabric.
Ethnicity, handmade dress or green Evening Dress will complement a wide velvet bracelet with romantic silver hearts and stones. Such a bracelet will tell a lot about its owner! He is a sign of the vulnerability of her soul and faith in New Year's magic!
Dress with corset or with bare shoulders decorate the interweaving of chains and stones. Such an accessory will tell others about the complexity of the nature of its owner, about the severity of her mores.
But a bracelet with lace on the wrist, on the contrary, speaks of romance, tenderness, subtlety of a girl. Such an accessory will perfectly complement any vintage outfit, as well as dilute the severity plain dresses from natural fabrics.
Jewelry will also help to emphasize individuality. For example, a ring or necklace with emerald, aquamarine or topaz is a chic addition to floor-length dresses in green tones.
Dickmy: If you have opted for a bright, shiny New Year's dress, with exquisite embroidery, gold decor, lace, lurex or sequins insert, you should not add accessories to it. In addition to this, small earrings and a thin chain are enough.
To do this, you need to take only one measurement - the half-girth of the baby's chest - take a centimeter and wrap it around chest on the most convex part of it and remember the number (this will be the size of the chest girth), and now divide this figure by 2 (this will be the size of the half-girth of the chest).
Now look at the figure - it says how to calculate the values of A and B
For example, the chest girth of my two-year-old daughter (height 85 cm, weight 11 kg) is 50 cm.That means, to get a half-girth, we divide 50 in half = 25 cm.
Size A = 25 cm + 6 cm = 31 cm.That is, the dress I drew should have a width from armpit to armpit of 31 cm.Then it will be in size - it will not be tight - since these additional 6 cm are added precisely for free fitting of the dress. And if you want the dress to grow a little, then add not 6 cm, but 7-8 cm.
The value B = 25 cm: 4 + 7 = 6 cm 2 mm + 7 = 13 cm 2 mm (these millimeters can be safely neglected). That is, if the height of the drawn armhole is 13 cm, this armhole is perfect for my baby.
That's it, observing these 2 simple rules, we will always have a dress pattern that suits our baby size. And no complicated drawings.
So, we have drawn the outlines of our future dress. Now we make allowances for the seams - we retreated from the contours of the dress by 2 cm and again painted it with a bold bright marker (Fig. 3 in the first diagram).
These will be the final contours of the dress with allowances for the side and shoulder seams, below the hem allowance and the allowance for processing armholes and necklines. (By the way, there are tailor's standards here: for the side and shoulder seams - an allowance of 1.5-2 cm, for the armhole and neckline - 1-1.5 cm, for the hem of the hem - 4-6 cm). But I just look at the fabric - if it crumbles heavily on the cut, then it is better to make a larger allowance, otherwise while you sew and try on half of the allowance will turn into a fringe.
By the way, when you draw a dress, do not be upset if yours is crooked - one shoulder is more beveled than the other, or the left armhole is not the same in shape as the right one. This is not important, since we will transfer to the fabric only one half of the pattern drawn (left or right - which one came out more beautifully for you) - and when cutting, the dress detail will turn out to be absolutely symmetrical. Now you will understand everything ... 
Divide the pattern in half to get one shelf.
So that the detail of the dress ultimately turns out to be symmetrical (that is, the left and Right side the details are the same), we only need one half of the resulting pattern.
To do this, fold the cut out pattern in half - approximately shoulder to shoulder, armpit to armpit (approximately, because if you drew crookedly, then the shoulders and armpits of the left and right halves may not quite coincide when folded).
We folded and got a fold line (Fig. 2), which just passes in the middle of the dress, and along this line it is necessary to cut the pattern in order to end up with only one half of it (the shelf - as the tailors call it - left or right, whichever is more beautiful and even turned out) - fig. 3.
The pattern is ready. It would seem that everything is simple, the way it is.
We transfer the pattern to the fabric and sew.
We have in our hands a pattern of one shelf (left or right) and now we need to transfer it to the fabric and cut out a detail of the back and dress.
The resulting pattern of the shelf was first put on one side of the fabric - circled with a small one (Fig. 4), then turned over in a mirror with the other side (by moving the central midline of the shelf to the similar line just drawn with a crayon) (Fig. 5) - and also circled. And the result is an absolutely symmetrical finished part of the front or back of the future dress.
By the way, if there is no crayon, you can use a colored pencil or sharpen a regular piece of soap with a knife (light soap draws well on colored fabric).
We cut out the exact same detail for the back. Yes, many dresses (especially summer ones) have exactly the same front and back details. But you can draw a back pattern different from the front pattern, it will take you 2 minutes. Read below
Note: "back pattern and its differences"
Usually, classic pattern the front and back of the product differ from each other in the depth of the neck and armholes (armholes are openings for the hands). 
As you can see in the picture above, the armholes and neckline of the front are more curved inward, that is, deeper (blue outline), while at the back they are less deep (red outline).
And if you look at the photos of dresses at the beginning of the article, you will notice the difference in the neckline and armholes of the front and back.
Having examined many ready-made children's dresses in the store, I came to the conclusion that there are few dresses in which there is a difference in the neckline of the back and front armholes. That is, the armholes of the back and front are the same in most sleeveless dresses. And in dresses with sleeves, the armholes of the back are less deep than the armholes of the front - as in our diagram above).
As a rule, there is a difference in the depth of the neck, but also not always.
Conclusion: for children summer dresses without sleeves, identical armholes and identical necklines at the front and back are absolutely permissible. For children's dresses with sleeves, the armholes of the back are made less deep.
You are your own creators and artists of the future dress. As you draw, so it will be - in any case, you will succeed Nice dress, do not worry.
Sew the front and back together.
Now (Fig. 6) we put both parts on top of each other. face side inside and manually connect the side and shoulder seams with coarse stitches. We try on and, if all is well, we sew these seams on a typewriter, after which we pull out this rough thread (for those who do not have a typewriter, you can simply go to a clothing repair point or in an atelier; it will cost you $ 1 to sew a couple of seams). We fold the hem edge and also either sew it on a typewriter, or manually mark it with blind stitches (ask your mother or grandmother - she will show you how). Now you need to tidy up the neckline and armholes (fig. 7). You can simply fold the edges inward and stitch on. Or you can buy braid or piping and process the neckline with it - this is done in most children's dresses.
That's all, our child dress do it yourself ready! This pattern will be a template for sewing all other dress models.
Examples of everyday dresses that can be sewn using this pattern: 
Such a dress can be decorated with flirty bows and a purchased New Year's applique (if you want to make the applique yourself, read on - there will be many ideas).
New Year's dresses for girls - WITH STRAPS.
This model of baby dress has at least 2 options:
1.static length straps dress
2. Dress with straps, the length of which changes depending on which button they are fastened with.
Model 1. Dress with static straps.
Building a pattern.
The pattern of the front for this dress can not be changed (Fig. 1), that is, our pattern-template will be the pattern for the front of the dress. And at the back pattern, lengthen the shoulder straps to the length we need, for this we make a copy of the pattern pattern on a sheet of paper (or wallpaper) and draw on such “ears” (see Fig. 2). V classic version the increase on the shoulders of the back (the length of the "ears") will be 4-5 cm. All the pattern of the front and back are ready. 
Now you can transfer these patterns to fabric and cut out the front and back detail.
Sealing the top of the dress
Since the straps of such a model should be dense, that is, two-layer, shortened doubles of the back and front should be cut from the same fabric (Fig. 5, 6).
The pattern of duplicates is easy to obtain if you draw a rounded line 3-4 cm below the armpits on the pattern of the front and back. And cut off along this line - top part such a truncated pattern of the front and back will be the pattern of our double-seals.
Note. If you are sewing from thin, soft tissue, then for additional rigidity the takes can be glued with interlining. You will need non-woven glue-based liner (sold in the same section of the store as the fabric, cheap thin material with a hole, like gauze). Just put a piece of non-woven fabric on the wrong side of the part, with the glue surface to the fabric and iron it with an iron. The non-woven fabric will stick to the part by itself, and give it density. And then cut off the excess non-woven fabric along the contour of the part. But if you sew from a dense fabric (corduroy, jeans), then you can do it without non-woven fabric. If you did not find non-woven fabric on sale, you can also do it without non-woven fabric, that's okay.
Sewing takes on back and front details
So, these shortened takes of the front and back (Fig. 5, 6) now need to be sewn to the details of the back and front. To do this, fold the front double and the front part together with the front sides inward and sew along the contour of the armholes, straps and neckline. But not along the contour of the side seams! (Fig. 7, - that is, the line goes from the armpit up, along the straps, and to the other armpit.
Now turn right side out and sew again on the front surface, following the line along the same path - along the edge of the armholes, shoulder straps, neckline. As a result of this simple operation, we get the processed edges of the armholes, shoulder straps and necklines. We do the same with the details of the back.
As a result, we get a front part with a two-layer top, and the back piece also has a double-layer top. And the straps and armholes were automatically processed.
We sew side seams.
We put the front part on top of the back part with the front sides facing each other (that is, inward), and the duplicated sides outward. And we sew side seams.
Moreover, separately (from the armpit to the bottom of the hem) we sew to each other the detail of the back and front, without capturing the fabric of the double (!). And then we separately connect the side seams and the takes themselves to each other. (see Fig. 9 - the seam for the front and back is shown in dark green, it hides under the double and goes all the way to the armhole. It is difficult to reach there with a machine, so when taking out the dress from under the machine, leave the long threads from the bobbin and the needle and finish by hand The light green dotted line shows the seam connecting the sides of the front and back doubles, it is short and it will probably be inconvenient to climb into it with a typewriter, so I sewed it by hand.)
To prevent the duplicate lining from turning outward when putting on and taking off the dress, you can manually stitch the bottom edges of the side seams of the doubles to the side seams of the dress itself.
There is nothing left, to bend the hem. Bend and stitch, or bend and sweep by hand with hidden invisible stitches (ask your mother or grandmother, they have done this more than once, they will show you).
You also need to sew buttons on the details of the front and make cuts on the straps of the back and process them in the atelier or manually (with embroidery threads it will turn out faster and smoother)
That's all our first baby dress with our own hands is ready.
Model 2. Dress with adjustable shoulder straps.
If you want the dress to “grow” with the child, then you can make straps with a margin of length and, altering the button as the child grows, “increase” the size of the dress. 
Then at the pattern of the front it is necessary to round off the shoulders (Fig. 1), and in the pattern of the back, draw the "ears" more authentic (Fig. 2).
And here it is necessary, on the contrary (in contrast to previous model): sew the buttons on the straps, and cut the slits for them on the front details.
And since the child grows not only in length, but also in width, so that the dress does not become narrow over time, make it wider in advance. If you remember, the optimal width of the dress from armpit to armpit should be equal to the half-girth of the chest + 6 cm for a free fit. So in our case, you can add not 6 cm to a free fit, but 10 cm, for example.
This dress is sewn in the same way as the previous one. We also cut out and sew on duplicates. The same features when sewing side seams.
As you can see, a baby dress with buttons on the straps is very easy to sew with your own hands. 
But such a dress can be made without fasteners on the straps, the main thing is to make the neckline large enough to fit the baby's head. These clasps on dresses are purely decorative, so why bother with it.
HOW TO MAKE RIBBON APPLIQUE ON A GREEN DRESS.
The first method is on a newly cut part of the dress. That is, even before sewing together the details of the back and the details of the front of the dress, it is necessary to draw straight lines on the details of the front with the help of a chalk and a ruler (where the ribbons will be sewn). Then we take a piece of tape of the required length and sew it along the drawn line, first by hand. Singe the ends of the tape (where the cut is) with a lighter so that the tape does not start to crumble. When both ribbons are sewn by hand, you need to stitch them on a typewriter from one side and the other. Now that the ribbons have already been sewn to the part of the front of our dress, you can sew in front with the back (that is, everything, as in the article on sewing such a dress). Do not forget to sew a bow from the same ribbon at the intersection of the ribbons.
The second method is on a ready-made dress. In the same way, you draw lines with chalk, you manually apply a ribbon to them. And its ends must be cut off at the seam, leaving only 1 cm to bend the trimmed edge of the tape to the wrong side and sewn by hand with secret small stitches.
Or, in the place where the tape fits to the seam of the dress, gently cut the seam slightly with nail scissors in order to hide the end of the tape in this hole. And then, turning the dress inside out, manually or on a typewriter, sew again this ripped section of the seam with a ribbon threaded through it.
Agree, this new year dress for a girl - makes her a real New Year's gift, beautifully tied with a ribbon.))
New Year's dresses for girls - ON A ROUND COCKET.
First, let's take a look at the snowflake dress.
On the dress we see a round yoke, which serves as both shoulder straps and a neckline. It is very easy to make a pattern for such a dress and sew it. Especially if we already have (and do you already have?) A pattern-template (dress # 1 - one-piece)
So let's get started ...
CREATING A PATTERN (based on an existing template).
We take our cut out of paper (wallpaper) template and put it on new leaf paper (wallpaper).
Draw around the outline with a pencil.
That's it, we no longer need a template, we work with a freshly drawn one.
As seen in Fig. 1, 2, 3, on top of the drawn template, we must draw the outlines of our future round coquette. What shape your yoke will be - it's up to you.
It can follow the contours of the pattern neckline (fig. 1), or be deeper than the neckline (fig. 2), or be wider than the neckline on the template (fig. 3)
Honestly, it can even be square or triangular - but since at the beginning of the article we said that we would sew a dress on a round yoke, let's draw a yoke all the same round shape.
One important caveat: if you immediately draw a yoke with a hole large enough to fit the child's head, then you will not need to make a fastener in this very yoke. But if you still want your yoke to fit close to your neck, then see the same article below - there I will tell and show you how to provide a fastener on the yoke in advance (even at the sewing stage).
So, the yoke is drawn.
Now we slightly change the lower part of the template (Fig. 4, 5).
These figures show (in turquoise outline) how slightly it changes (tapers up) Bottom part template - the one under the yoke - we will call it the "hem of the dress". Plus, the "hem" not only narrows upwards, but also lengthens upwards with an overlap on the yoke (looking ahead, I will explain that this part of the overlap is needed when sewing the hem to the yoke and will be hidden between two layers of the yoke - everything will be clear in the diagram below)
As a result, we get 2 details of the pattern - the yoke and the hem (Fig. 6).
Now, if you have drawn by hand a too lopsided non-symmetrical yoke, then it can be made symmetrical according to the same principle as we achieved symmetry for the pattern.
Seam allowances.
If you remember, then our template already contains allowances for the side, shoulder seams. As for the yoke, decide for yourself whether you still need to add allowances for the seams, or it is already wide enough, and it's okay if 1 cm per seam is removed along its edges.
CUT OUT THE DRAWED DETAILS OF THE PATTERN.
Since the image of the hem is superimposed on the image of the yoke, you can simply cut out the yoke first (regardless of the fact that a piece of the hem is drawn on it). And then cut out what's left of the hem. And keep in mind that when transferring the hem to the fabric, you must not forget to simply lengthen the top of the hem with a small piece of fabric.
WE TRANSFER THE PATTERN TO THE FABRIC.
Yoke pattern - 4 parts. If your yoke pattern is symmetrical (that is, it left side the same as the right one) - then just circle it 4 times on the fabric. If you doubt its symmetry, then circle 2 parts with chalk, attaching the pattern with the front side, and 2 parts by putting the pattern on the fabric seamy side.
Whoever has cut a pattern from a sheet of wallpaper can easily determine the seamy patterned side of the pattern.
Hem pattern - 2 parts (back and front). Same advice for symmetry.
Note, if you are sewing from a thin soft fabric, you can pre-glue the details of the yoke with non-woven fabric. That is, to seal the details so that the yoke holds its shape better. But this is not necessary - at your discretion.
WE START SEWING THE DRESS.
We start with a yoke - and consider the option when a fastener is not needed on it, that is, when the child's head can be easily crawled inside the yoke. 
We have four details of the yoke - these are approximately (Fig. 7)
We take 2 pieces and put them on top of each other with the front side inward and sew the side seams (green dotted line in Fig. 7)
We turn them face out and we get such a "pancake with a hole in the middle" (Fig. 8). Do not be alarmed if your pancake is not as smooth and flat as in the picture (I drew it this way - for convenience), it should not be so - it will rather resemble a skirt for a doll - this is normal.
Now you can catch your child and measure whether his head fits through this yoke. If it happens that it will not crawl, and you did not foresee the fastener in advance, then there is a way out here too. Just right on the yoke, cut off the excess along the inner circle of our "donut" with scissors - expand, so to speak, the hole (to get it evenly, first draw the cut line with chalk).
So, we continue - for this "pancake-skirt" you need to process the outer edges - bend to the wrong side and sweep by hand and then on a typewriter - (Fig. 9). Finished the outer edges and set them aside.
We take 2 other details of the yoke and carry out the same manipulation with them.
As a result, we get 2 "pancakes-skirts" = that is, 2 layers of a yoke - with processed outer edges.
Now we put both pancakes on top of each other with the front surface inward and sew them together along the inner edge (Fig. 10 green dotted line). After that, we turn our almost finished yoke on the front side - for this we turn the top pancake and push it inside our "donut" - it looks like a two-layer skirt for a doll.
But after you've turned to the right side, you may notice that she wrinkles at inner seam... Therefore, you can sprinkle it and iron it with an iron (Fig. 11) and already on front side sew again along the inner ring, stepping back a couple of millimeters from the edge. Then the yoke will look neat and even, as in the photographs of our dresses at the beginning of the article.
Everyone sighed - the most difficult thing is over.
Sew on the hem.
Here you don't even need to explain - everything is clearly shown in the pictures below. 
The only thing is that in advance (before sewing to the yoke) on the details of the front and back, process the edges of the armhole (holes for the arm) fig. 12 (white bold dotted line).
So, we take the hem (with the already processed edges of the armholes), bend the top pancake of the yoke, place the hem strictly in the center of the front of the yoke. And we sew manually the hem first to the bottom pancake (fig. 12 white small dotted line).
To position the hem right in the center of the yoke, you need to find the middle of the yoke, mark it with chalk, then also find the middle at the top edge of the hem, also mark it with chalk. And then put the hem on the yoke so that the marks coincide.
After the hem is sewn by hand to the bottom layer of the yoke, cover it top layer evenly and sew by hand, and then on a typewriter we sew all 3 layers along the edge of the yoke (Fig. 13).
In the same way, we sew the back detail on the other side of the yoke (Fig. 14).
Now fold the dress in half with the right side inward and sew the side seams (fig. 15)
We fold the hem and that's it.
Hooray, our baby dress with your own hands is quick and relatively simple - it's done!
BUCKLE ON ROUND COCKET.
And now, as promised, information for those who need a clasp in a round yoke. Here's how to do it. 
The front yoke remains unchanged. And the back one consists of 2 halves, one with an overlap on the other.
That is, one half is elongated to the right of the middle blue line, the other is elongated to the left (Fig. 3, 4)
The yoke with a fastener is also two-layer - that is, you need 2 pieces for the front of the yoke and 4 pieces for the back of the yoke (2 right and 2 left pieces only for the back yoke).
It can be connected with the hem in different ways. Here are three options. Choose whichever you like. 
The first is the lightest (Fig. 6) That is, at outer edge left and right halves the yokes are connected with a seam (they overlapped others on others and sewed this overlap at the bottom, and then we work as with ordinary "pancakes") and have only one button. One-piece hem.
And in the second version, an incision must be made on the hem and a strap is sewn in - and each half of the yoke is separately fixed on its side.
Or, as in the third option - to make a back with buttons along the entire hem.
Examples of everyday dresses on a yoke. 
Now let's take a look at the green New Year's dress for a girl with sand men.
The pattern for an ordinary (not gathered) dress on a round yoke looks like this: (Fig. 1) - a hem with a usual figure and a round yoke. 
To make a fluffy one from a simple hem, you need to fold our pattern of a regular hem in half (to find out where its middle line is). Then, along this midline, cut into 2 identical halves (Fig. 2). We put these halves on a new sheet of paper (or a sheet of wallpaper) and move them away from each other at an arbitrary (10-30 cm) distance (Fig. 3) - the further you move, the more magnificent your hem will be, and the more folds you will make when sewing it to the yoke. We circle these parted halves on a sheet of wallpaper, connect them smooth lines and we already get a wide hem pattern. Using this pattern, we cut out a detail of the back and front from the fabric.
Next, we make a round yoke out of fabric, as described above, for a dress with round yoke.
Then we take our wide hem and immediately before sewing to the yoke we process the edge of the armhole (armhole is a hole for the arm).
And we sew our hem to the yoke as follows. 
Fold back the top layer of the yoke and on the bottom layer divide the hem sewing line into equal parts and mark it with small pieces (Fig. 6 turquoise arrows and strokes). In the same way, we make marks on the upper edge of the hem (yellow arrows and strokes). And you can immediately connect with pins the marks on the hem with similar marks on the yoke (Fig. 7). And now we sew the hem by hand to the bottom layer of the yoke, pinching the folds while sewing. Sewn by hand, then on a typewriter. Now we covered the sewn hem with the top layer of the yoke and sewed it by hand and on a typewriter too.
We repeat the exact same procedure for sewing to the yoke with the back detail - in the end we get this - (Fig. 9)
Now fold the front and back together and sew the side seams. It remains to decorate our New Year's dress with bows, New Year's applications and shuttlecocks.
Well, that's all, our New Year's dress for the girl is ready!
Another version of the dress is DOUBLE LAYER!
that is, a child's dress, which will consist, as it were, of two dresses - an upper and a lower one.
Here's how in this photo and in the pictures: 
In the photo, the underwear is in a soft turquoise color and the top is in a Scottish white-blue-blue plaid.
The top dress, as you can see, can be of any length and shape.
Well, let's get started.
Building a pattern based on a template.
Our template will serve as a pattern for the bottom dress. And we will draw the pattern of the upper dress on a copy of the template. As you remember, in order not to spoil the template, we do all changes in the patterns of different "models based on the template" not on the pattern itself, but on its copy. 
On the copy of the template (Fig. 1) in the middle line, we select the level of the length of our top dress. At this level, we draw a horizontal segment (Fig. 2), and the right and left ends of the segment must be equidistant from the midline so that the shelves of our top dress are the same. Although it is possible not to achieve the similarity of the shelves, since one half of the upper dress is enough for us to pattern, we first put it on the fabric with one side and circle it, then turn it over with the other side and circle it again on the fabric, so we get 2 shelves right and (its mirror reflection) left (Fig. 4).
Top dress back is a pattern-template, shortened to the same level (fig. 4)
We transfer the patterns to fabric and sew 2 lower and upper dresses.
We transfer the template 2 times to the fabric - we get the back and front of the lower dress. We put them on top of each other with the front sides inward and sew side and shoulder seams (Fig. 5). You can immediately process the bottom of the hem (fold the hem and sew or baste it by hand with blind stitches). Our underwear dress is ready.
We transfer the pattern of the back and 2 shelves of the upper dress to the fabric. We put the resulting parts of the shelves on the back part with the front side inward and sew the side and shoulder seams (Fig. 6). And also we process the bottom edge of the hem and the inner (central) edges of the shelves (fold and stitch). Our top dress is ready.
Sew the bottom and top dress together.
Now all we have to do is sew both ready-made dresses to each other. See the diagram below. To do this, we put on the top dress on the bottom one - put it on with the front sides up - the way it will be worn.
And we sew them together by hand with large stitches in the area of the neck and armholes (Fig. 1). That is, the bottom and top dress will be connected only in these places.
Here are 2 options for sewing and processing the edges of the neckline and armholes.
The first option is to connect the dresses put on each other by hand with a seam along the line of the armholes and the neckline. If everything worked out smoothly - sew on a typewriter. Then we just bend the edges of the armholes and necklines of both dresses back, behind the underside of the lower dress - they bent one centimeter, put the thread into a needle and sew it by hand. Now sew on typewriters 2 times: at the very edge of the fold and further 1 cm from the edge. The advantage of this option is that it is faster. Minus - the result is less aesthetic than the next factory version.
Option two - it is more neat, since all the seams will be hidden between the bottom and top dress.
For this hand seam, with which we sweep the lower dress to the upper in the area of the neckline and armholes, must be done by stepping back from the edge of the armholes and neckline by 2-3 cm deep. This indent is needed so that we can bend the edges of the armholes and necklines of the lower dress separately, and bend the edges of the armholes and necklines of the upper dress separately (see the figure below).
A connecting basting stitch will help us not to make the fold on the bottom dress smaller than the fold on the top one (so that the folds on both dresses are the same size). Then the bottom dress will not look ugly from under the top dress in the area of the neckline and armholes. 
As you can see in this diagram, after we manually swept one dress to another, stepping back 2-3 cm to the hem (Fig. 1), it turned out that the edge of the upper dress can be bent (Fig. 2, 3) and processed separately from the lower the edges - bend (Fig. 4) and stitch on the fold (Fig. 5). The same is with the edges of the lower dress - bend (Fig. 4) and stitch on the fold (Fig. 5).
That is, we fold the edge of the lower dress to the front side and sweep it. We fold the edge of the upper dress to the seamy side and sweep it.
Received 2 separately processed edges - the edge of the upper dress (pink with white dotted lines) and the edge of the lower dress (blue with white dotted lines) - Fig. 5.
And now you need to again attach these already processed edges of the upper and lower dresses to each other and already stitch them to each other (Fig. 6) - you get a neat armhole, where all the edges are hidden inside between the dresses. It remains to take out all the rough threads with which we manually swept the dresses from the edge.
We use the same principle to process the neckline and the other armhole.
Everything, our two-layer baby dress with our own hands is ready.
This dress, if you fantasize, you can find many more design options. Here's what I suggest:
Model 1. Lush underwear + tight upper dress with rounded shelves. 
Everything here is, perhaps, clear from the drawing.
The pattern of the top dress make the shelves rounded.
And the pattern of the bottom dress we get it if we make changes to the sewing pattern. You just need to expand the pattern, starting from the armpits. See the diagram below: 
In order for the hem as a result to be flat (both in front and on the sides), the rule a = b must be observed, that is, the height of the hem in the center (b) must be equal to the height of the hem from the sides (a). Therefore, we measured the height of the hem of the template (b), then measured the exact same length on both sides and connected everything with a rounded smooth line.
By the way, in this way you can sew simply one-piece fluffy dresses.
And if you do not like the tight and narrow top of this model, then you can also make the top dress according to this extended template. Then the top cape will turn out to be as fluffy as the dress. In a similar way, it is just tailored for the next model.
Model 2. Tight bottom dress + light transparent top dress. 
Here, the principle of cutting the upper dress is a bit similar to the principle of cutting the lower dress of the previous model, everything also expands to the sides.
And the bottom dress is simply cut according to the pattern. Opaque bottom and airy top, and a rose in tone at the throat. Nice, as it seems to me.
You can even dream up and come up with a bunch of options, well, it's you yourself.))
Now we sew a dress by combining different fabrics
We will consider the option when, based on our one-piece pattern, a dress is sewn from pieces different fabrics, - as, for example, in these dresses: 
As in all dresses based on a pattern-template, we first make a copy from the template - put the template on a sheet of wallpaper and circle it along the contour.
Now on this new pattern you can make notes, you can cut it into pieces, which we are going to do. See the picture below
So, Model 1. Dress "animal in ambush"
Modifying the pattern template. On the pattern, draw a line dividing the dress into 2 parts, white and pink (you can use a curved line, you can use a straight line - as you draw it, it will be so). By the way, if you want to draw a smooth curved line (and there is no compass in the house), just find a round plate or dish, make notes on the side edges of the pattern, attach the dish close to these marks and trace around the edge of the dish with a pencil - you get a perfect rounded line.
Along this line, cut the pattern into 2 parts, and mark along the cut edge that you need to add a seam allowance. That is, when you put the pattern on the fabric and trace it, then add 2 cm along the cut line. Other seam allowances are not needed - we already made them when we created this template.
So we got the bodice pattern (white part of the dress) and hem (pink part). Now we need to make another copy of the bodice pattern (see the picture above) and on this copy draw the outline of the animal's head and cut it out. This is our third pattern.
Note about the clasp. If our pattern-template has a wide enough neckline and the child's head passes freely in the dress, then the fastener (which we see in the photo at the beginning of the article - 2 buttons on the shoulder) is not needed, in fact. But if this is not so, then there are 2 solutions: either increase the neckline on the pattern, or provide a fastener for the dress.
We transfer the pattern to the fabric and sew the details.
That's it, now you can take the fabric, white and pink, and transfer our 3 patterns to it (do not forget to make a seam allowance from the side of the cut, connecting the upper and lower parts of the dress - the rest of the allowances are already contained in the template itself). The back of the dress can also contain the face of an animal, or simply consist of two halves, white and pink.
Parts were cut out of the fabric (Fig. 1, 2, 3). Immediately we put our pink animal face on the white bodice - we place it strictly in the center and pin it with pins (so that it does not shift), we sweep it by hand with large stitches (Fig. 4). And now you can pull out the pins and sew on a typewriter (if you don't have a typewriter, go to the atelier - in a couple of minutes and a little money they will make all the seams for you).
Now we connect the top and bottom of the front of the dress (Fig. 5), we do the same with the back. Then the finished backrest and before we put it on top of each other with the front side inward and sew side and shoulder seams (Fig. 6)
Now the final chord is decoration (Fig. 7), we take the braid in pink (or another contrasting color) and hide our seams with this braid. From it we form the ears of the animal. To make it smoother, it is better to first sweep the braid by hand (burn the ends of the braid with a lighter so that they do not bloom), and when everything is even and beautiful, stitch it on a typewriter.
The same braid can be used to process the armholes and the neckline, or you can simply bend the edges of the armholes inward and stitch them in.
We make a nose and eyes for the animal, you can use ordinary buttons, or buy special eyes for toys in the "button" department of the store.
Everything, a children's dress with your own hands - is ready.
Other designer dresses can be created based on the same pattern. Let's play designer.
For example, I came up with the idea of a "dress with the sun" (Fig. 8). The beams must be sewn onto the bodice right away - let the ribbons diverge from the central lower point of the bodice and in all directions like beams. Bend the ends of the rays behind the armholes and the neckline. And then sew on our semicircle (sun disk) over the rays. Or a more complex and painstaking application, where a semicircle turns into a mink of some animal, and then there are flowers and berries. I chose a hare and a carrot (fig. 9).
We sew the simplest dress for a girl in 1 hour! 
This children's dress is sewn in one evening, and you can wear it both in summer (on panties) and in winter over a blouse and even with panties. 
So, let's get started, we need to take 3 measurements - these are the ones. 
1. Chest circumference - measure A. Grasp the baby with a centimeter at chest level.
2. The height of the armhole (holes for the arms) - measure B. Measure from the shoulder to just below (6-10 cm) the armpit. The more we measure, the more our dress will grow.
3. Dress length - Measure B. From the shoulder to the level where the dress will end at the bottom.
Now we draw a pattern - it's not difficult - at the 4th grade high school level. I will not even explain - I explained everything clearly in the picture below. 
We cut out 2 such parts from the fabric - one for the back, the other for the front. 
For each part (at the back and at the front), we immediately process the armholes (Fig. 6), bent and stitched.
Now you can make a drawstring (inside which the tape will be located). It’s very simple. We bend the upper edge of the part to the seamy side (Fig. 7). How much to bend depends on the width of the tape that will be pulled into the future drawstring. If this thin ribbon 3-4 cm wide - then you need to bend 5-6 cm and the line should be done departing from the fold line, 3-4 cm needed for the tape. Thus, we will get such a "tunnel" where we will pull our tape.
If you want to pull in there wide bow 8-10 cm wide (or even several ribbons of different colors), then you need to bend more onto the drawstring - 10-11 cm.
And we sew, departing from the fold line to the required distance for the bow (Fig. 8).
Now that the drawstrings are ready both at the front and at the back, we put these parts on top of each other with the front side inward and sew the side seams (Fig. 8).
We immediately process the bottom edge of the dress. You can simply bend and sew, you can process it with an elegant edging to match the color of the ribbons, or you can sew even wide strips of fabric to the hem different colors and patterns - as shown in the photographs at the beginning and at the end of the article.
Now we pull in fancy ribbons, you can have one, but you can have several at once. It is very easy to pull the tape into the drawstring if you pin a pin to its edge and push it by touch inside the drawstring to the opposite hole.
Do not forget to burn the ends of the tapes with a lighter so that they do not crumble. Or you can do "even cooler" - sew 2 ribbons together (along the edges) and bend the edges at the ends and hide them inside. 
From exactly the same ribbons, you can make a hair clip or a headband. It's simple - you form a bow from the ribbon and either tie it with the ends of the ribbons to the rim, or you put it on glue. Or you can simply wrap a regular plastic headband with the same tape - it will also turn out beautifully.
Suddenly you will need ... we sew SLEEVES for a children's dress.
I AM used to sew exclusively sleeveless dresses, because I thought that I would never master such a complicated (as it seemed to me) sleeve pattern. But one day I sat down and spent the whole day studying all the sleeves in my wardrobe, read all the manuals for constructing a sleeve pattern - patiently lining up the sleeve drawing, first in one way, then in another. And as a result, I chose the most convenient and quick way draw a sleeve. You do not have to suffer as much as I do, I will tell you everything simple human language(without the abstruse tailor's terms).
I will provide the story with the most detailed diagrammatic pictures - so clear that even a fifth grader can sew a sleeve himself. And labor teachers, by the way, will be able to use these pictures as visual material in their lessons.
After this article, you will be able to come up with any design of sleeves for dresses, T-shirts, blouses for your baby.
The following are on the agenda:
Classic sleeve, its component parts.
Construction of a sleeve pattern with step-by-step pictures.
So let's get started ...
First, I want to introduce you to the basic terms: sleeve ridge, ridge height, etc.
Let's look at the first diagram: 
In Figure 1, we see a simplified image short sleeve... This is how it looks before it was sewn on.
I'll tell you right away that long sleeve differs from the short one only in length - so here we will learn how to make a short sleeve, and you can always lengthen it at will. The upper rounded line of the sleeve (with which it is sewn to the armhole) is called OKAT (Fig. 1).
Sleeve width is the distance between, roughly speaking, its "axillary" corners (Fig. 2)
Sleeve length - the distance from the armpit to the level we need (to the middle of the shoulder, to the elbow, to the wrist, etc.) (Fig. 3). Or the length of the sleeve can be calculated not from the armpit, but from the top of its ridge (that is, from the shoulder seam - Fig. 5 (b)). As you prefer.
The okat can be high and low (Fig. 4) (it depends on the design of the dress, on the shape of its armholes) - but most often, clothes use a standard cutout of the armholes and a standard classic sleeve with a standard okat height.
Pattern classic sleeves.
This is the standard sleeve we will now draw with you. And we will create the rest of the variety of sleeves using this standard pattern.
To create a sleeve, we need to take only 2 measurements (see the diagram above):
Measure A - Child's shoulder circumference in the armpit area (the width of the sleeve depends on this value)
Measurement B - the size of the armhole on the dress to which we make the sleeve (the height of the cuff depends on this value)
Now that we have measurements, we need to calculate the width of the sleeve and the height of the okat
Sleeve width = measurement A + 7 cm (for a loose fit, so that the sleeve does not dig into the hand)
Okat height = 3/4 measurement B, that is, measurement B: 4 x 3
A two-year-old girl (height 85, weight 11) has a handle girth of 17 cm, and the size of the armholes on all her dresses is 12-13 cm.
So the sleeve width = 17 cm + 7 cm = 24 cm.
And the height of the sleeve ridge = 12 cm, divided by 4 and multiplied by 3 = 9 cm
As you can see in the diagram above, I gave the sleeve calculations for it as a sample. If your baby has approximately the same parameters, you can use my calculations of the height of the neck and the width of the sleeve and all subsequent ones for your girl.
So, we got the height of the okata (I have 9 cm) and the width of the sleeve (I have 24 cm).
Now let's draw a rectangle 9 cm high and 24 cm wide (as shown in the diagram above). Ready? It is in this rectangle that we will draw a smoothly curved line for the okat.
First, we need to divide the rectangle into 6 equal parts with vertical lines (divide 24 by 6 = 4 cm - the distance between the lines is 4 cm) - see the diagram below. 
We will need these lines in order to quickly and easily draw our ridge along them, we will first draw points on these lines at which our future ridge should intersect with these lines.
All we need for this is to know the height of the okat, and we already know it (I have 9 cm).
Each point on the line is calculated based on their size of the okat - everything is detailed in the diagram below 
Point P1 = divide the height of the okat by 3 and subtract 1 cm
Point P2 and P3 = divide the height of the dim by 3 and subtract 1 cm 8 mm
Point P4 = divide the height of the ridge by 6
It's so simple, because we all know how to divide and take away.
On our vertical lines, these points were marked at the desired (just calculated) distance (in the diagram above, everything is described using the example of a sleeve for my daughter).
And now we will connect the dots together and get an okat - see the picture below. We connect with smooth rounded lines. Do not be afraid if it is slightly crooked - a couple of millimeters back and forth will not play a special role. You will still get a nice sleeve. 
That's it, okat - this is the most difficult thing that we needed to draw in the pattern of the sleeves. Then everything is simple.
We draw side lines, as long as we want the sleeve (meaning the length of the sleeve from the armpit) - see the picture below. 
And also draw the bottom line of the sleeve. It will not be straight, but curved - at the front half of the sleeve it will be curved up (by half a centimeter), and at the back half of the sleeve it will be curved down (also by half a centimeter).
See the diagram below for how to do this. First, just draw a straight bottom line of the sleeve. And then on the front half of the sleeve, in the middle, above this straight line, measure up half a centimeter, and on the back half of the sleeve, in the middle, under this straight line, measure down half a centimeter. And as in the picture below, we connect these points with smooth lines.
The bottom line of the sleeve always has this curved line, regardless of the length of the sleeve.
That's it, our sleeve is drawn - this is how it turned out (see the picture below). Now do not forget the seam allowance, for sleeves usually the allowance is 1.5 cm. Drew, all the sleeve pattern is ready.
This is a simple classic sleeve pattern. We will use this pattern as a template when we model lantern sleeves, puff sleeves, wing sleeves, and all the rest. 
You can easily and easily make any sleeve with this template. So don't throw it away after your first dress, it will serve you for other models too.
Sew on the sleeve to the armhole.
Now I will tell you how to sew the sleeve to the armhole. Our sleeve is divided into 2 halves (right and left). This section runs along a line that goes down from the top of its ridge (on the pattern this is line L3, remember?).
The left (aka the back) part of the sleeve is sewn to the back armhole, the right (aka the front) part of the sleeve is sewn to the front armhole. This is how it is shown in the diagram below: 
So that the center of the sleeve falls exactly on the shoulder seam, I begin to sew it from the top of the ridge to the armpit, first one half, then the other.
To do this, put the dress with the shoulder and side seams already sewn face up, put the sleeve face down to it (Fig. 2) - the top of the ridge to shoulder seam... And moving from the center to the armpit, sew by hand (Fig. 2, 3). Yes, yes, first sew on the sleeve by hand with simple coarse stitches, turn it inside out (Fig. 4), make sure it is good, rejoice - you yourself made the sleeve to the dress, just like a regular tailor.
And then put it under the foot sewing machine and boldly scribble.
They stitched both the front and the back (Fig. 3), now it can be bent (Fig. 4) and, in order to connect the side seam of the sleeve (Fig. 4 is shown with an arrow), the dress must be turned inside out. And on the wrong side, connect the side seams of the sleeves.
Now it remains to process the lower edge of the sleeve - bend it and stitch it in or trim it with a piping.
Fashionable review! 
Children's evening dresses: welcome to the ball
For modern girls in order to purchase children's evening dresses, you do not need to wait for the achievement of some a certain age... Couple beautiful outfits must be present in the wardrobe of every young princess. Evening dresses will be appropriate for children themed holidays, and at matinees, and how great it is to go on stage in a real ballroom dress. It will also be appropriate to wear them to celebrate your grandmother's anniversary, to a wedding. older sister and, of course, for the very first graduation in the baby's life - a celebration of farewell to the kindergarten. For any of these events, children's evening dresses are indispensable.
To shine on New Year's Eve, you must wear a beautiful dress. We want to help you with the choice and sewing of a New Year's dress, and we suggest you look already ready-made solutions, most of which are with patterns.
If you already have experience in sewing, then it will not be difficult for you to figure out the patterns and sew yourself a New Year's dress yourself. If you do not risk creating with your own hands yet, our ideas will help you understand what kind of dress you want and buy a similar dress for the new year.
New Year is a time when you can show your imagination in everything - in decorating the interior, in preparing dishes for New Year's table, in the choice and decoration of gifts and, of course, in the style of your outfit.
Rice. 1. Pattern of a black New Year's dress
New Year's classic - a little black dress just above the knee, embroidered with rhinestones. An unusual neckline and a stand-up collar that goes around the neck add aggressiveness to the dress.
Rice. 2. Patterns of a little black New Year's dress
All women, without exception, want to look perfect, especially in the New Year! Many of the flaws in the figure can be corrected with the right outfit. Our gallery of 10 little black dresses that help you visually correct various body flaws.
Rice. 3. Pattern of a satin New Year's dress
It's blue satin dress- 100% in the spirit of the Water Dragon! The texture of the fabric is reminiscent of the smooth surface of water, the folds are waves, and the silver finish emphasizes the solemnity of the moment. Sew yourself this new year gift and be sure - all attention will be focused only on you!
Rice. 4. Pattern of blue New Year's dress
This dress is a real dream! Made from stretch satin and accentuated by unusual pleats along the skirt. The top is decorated with a ready-made pattern (a scattering of beads, bugles and beads). Blue Rose completes the image.
Rice. 5. Dress pattern for a big exit
This dress is just made for a big show! And the New Year is just such an event. Made of satin in 2 colors, floor length and decorated with a fiery red bow, it will make its owner the star of any reception. And to sew it is much easier than it seems.
Rice. 6. Pattern of a long New Year's dress
This beautiful outfit is made for real beauties! And that's why it should be in your wardrobe in case “ Great holiday”, Which is the New Year! Sewing this dress is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Feel free to get down to business and surprise everyone with a gorgeous view.
A fundamentally new vision of a woman and the purpose of such an element of a wardrobe as an evening dress modern designers consider outfits in which their owners look not only seductive, but also inaccessibly luxurious, like real queens.
And for this, couturiers use lace fabric with embroidery in silver or bronze. But you and I can ourselves remake an old evening dress, just using it AS A COVER under a lace dress or cape.
In principle, you can decorate with lacealmost any ready-made dress.
Sew on collar and cuffs a laschool uniform last century or cut beautiful elements and sew them on the dress with blind stitches by hand wherever you want. But who knows how to sew, you can sew a romantic cover entirely of lace (you need a lace fabric with scallops)
A lot of MK "HOW TO SEW a dress FROM GUIPURE OR CHIFFON" SEE. or
And if you knit a lace cape or an openwork sheath dress, you will need fine yarn, or iris)
Before cutting out lace fabric, spread the fabric on a flat surface, placing a plain fabric of a contrasting color under it so that the lace pattern is better visible.
When working with lace, the direction of the shared thread does not matter; lay out the details depending on the location of the pattern. Lay the pattern of sleeves, shelves and back of the dress so that the scallops are located at the bottom of the details. In addition, make sure that the elements are located symmetrically and, if possible, overlap in the sewing areas.
Sewing lace dress
First, sew the details of the dress from the lining fabric: satin or satin (or other suitable plain material). The technology of sewing the cover is the same as for making a dress.Stitch darts and raised seams. Iron them carefully. Align the side and shoulder cuts of the pieces and sew. Sew the sections with an overstitch or zigzag stitch. Sew the details from the openwork fabric in the same way.
VIDEO MK:
Place the lace dress on the cover with the wrong side to the right side of the lining and baste. Sew the edges of the neckline by hand using blind stitches. If the model provides a hidden zipper, then sew it along the cuts of the back, combining both the lace and lining fabric... Then sew using the technology of working with invisible zippers.
LACE DRESS PATTERNS and
The bottom section of the dress does not need to be hemmed, it will be beautifully decorated with scallops. And hem the cover 2-3 cm shorter than the lace. Fold it 2 times, first 0.5, then 2 cm and stitch on a sewing machine.
HOW TO SEW THIS PRINCESS DRESS FOR NEW YEAR - SEE. VIDEO below
And now the ideas for capes - sewn or knitted:
For full model:
A FEW CHARTS FOR KNITTERS
LanaGold yarn, color # 152, beige melange, LanaGold yarn, color # 26, brown, Sal Simli yarn, color # 01, cream,yarn "AngoraGold", color No. 01, cream
number of skeins - 1 each, hook number 2
1st row: crochet a row of 82 half-columns with crochet with thread "LanaGold" color No. 152,2nd row: With "LanaGold" thread color No. 26, knit 1 row of half-crochets.
How to link this model, see.