Bobbin winding methods. Curling on papillots. Possible mistakes when performing a perm

30.04.2019

Forceps

curlers

The hairdresser uses four types of curlers (Fig. 23):

Metal curlers with strap and elastic band. These curlers allow you to get very cool curls, but they leave creases on the hair from the elastic, so they are used only for everyday styling.

Metal curlers without a strap with an elastic band or hairpin. With their help, cool curls are also obtained, but if they do not have an elastic band, then they do not leave creases. Used for both everyday and evening styling.

Plastic curlers with spikes, or "hedgehogs". Allows you to get soft curls, the same as when blow-drying. Used for everyday, evening and model styling. They make it possible to wind the hair with a brace to obtain a curl of different elasticity.

Modified curlers. These include:

Velcro curlers that are held on the hair without clips, elastic bands and hairpins and are used for everyday and evening styling;

metal curlers with a brush made of wild boar bristles inside, designed to hold hair; they fix curls and lift hair at the roots;

curlers-boomerangs (papilots) - flexible rubber curlers designed to perform fashionable modern hairstyles and perm.

Curlers, like all hairdresser's tools, must be systematically cleaned of dirt. To do this, in the process of work, as needed, the curlers are cleaned of hair and washed in warm water with soap.

There are two types of tongs: electric tongs, which do not require additional heating, and Marseille tongs, which require additional heating.

Electric tongs are used only to create curls and differ in diameter. Currently there are electric tongs various shapes. Triangular tongs have a clip triangular shape, which allows you to form curls with a sharp crease and leave hair straight at the ends. Spiral tongs are equipped with a metal spiral that wraps around the barrel of the tongs and does not allow curls to tangle. Tongs - zigzag allow you to get clearly defined curls with broken ends. Wavemaker tongs are similar to regular tongs, but the heating plates are serrated, allowing you to get steep waves of a certain width. Forceps allow you to create a pattern on your hair, using one or another curly nozzle for this. Straighteners with flat heating plates. Marseille tongs, designed to perform waves and curls, are more versatile. They consist of three parts (Fig. 1): handle-roller 1, handle-gutter 5 and fastening pin 4. The pin divides the tongs into working blades 2 and handles 3. The working blades of the tongs are made of heat-intensive alloys, long time retaining heat. Handles are made of alloys that do not conduct heat.

Rice. 1 Design of Marseille forceps:

handle-roller;

working canvas;

fastening pin;

handle-chute

Before starting work, a piece of paper is used to determine the heating temperature of the tongs, which is clamped between the working canvases. If a clear mark remains on the paper, but its color has not changed, the tongs are ready for use, but if the color of the paper under the working canvases has changed, the tongs must be cooled.

The tongs are held in the right hand during operation (Fig. 2), while the groove handle is at the bottom, and the roller handle is at the top. The thumb covers the handle-gutter; index, middle and nameless cover the handle-roller; the little finger opens the tongs.

Rice. 2 Technique for holding forceps

A hair dryer used in hairdressing for hair styling must have a power of at least 1200 W (the most common power is 1600-1800 W) and two nozzles (Fig. 1): a “nozzle” - a nozzle with a narrow slot for supplying a directed air jet and “ diffuser ”- a nozzle for styling hair with your hands.

Rice. 1 hair dryer with nozzle and diffuser

A professional hair dryer is most often made in the form of a gun, has an impact-resistant plastic body, several speeds and a supply of cold air is required to fix the styling. It should also have a dust cover filter to prevent hair from getting inside the case.

In addition, the hair dryer must have a long cord and a special ring to secure it in the workplace. When styling, the hair dryer is held either in the right or in the left hand, i.e. certain way no hair dryer.

Bobbins intended for curling hair, i.e. changes in their structure for a long time (at least three months), there are two types: classic and modified.

Classic bobbins (Fig. 1) are concave plastic rods, that is, narrowed in the center and gradually expanding towards the ends. As a result of using such bobbins, the curl is smaller at the ends of the hair and larger at the roots.

Currently, straight classic bobbins have appeared that have a wavy surface, which allows you to get a more natural curl.

Classic bobbins also differ in diameter. The larger the diameter, the more voluminous and easier the curl is. Each diameter corresponds to a certain color of the bobbin.

Rice. 1 Classic perm bobbins

Modified bobbins (Fig. 2) make it possible to obtain curls of various shapes.

Rice. 2 Boomerang bobbins (a) and spiral bobbins (b)

So, when using spiral bobbins (Fig. 3), spiral curls are obtained, when using pin-shaped bobbins (Fig. 4), they are corrugated. As a result of using flexible boomerang bobbins, voluminous curls are obtained.

Rice. 3 Winding hair on spiral bobbins (a) and the resulting hairstyle (b)

Rice. 4 Winding hair on spiral bobbins (a) and the resulting hairstyle (b)

Winding hair on hairpin bobbins (a) and the resulting hairstyle (b)

Safety rules when working with hair styling and curling tools:

· Instruments must be regularly disinfected and washed in soapy water as they get dirty.

· The heating temperature of the tongs should be checked using pieces of paper.

· Pass the tongs by the handle.

· Before turning on the hair dryer in the network, you must check the integrity of the wires.

Do not handle the hair dryer with wet hands.

· Do not store the hair dryer in the dressing table drawer.

· Do not disassemble the dryer yourself.

Control questions

List the main types of combs.

How many ways are there to hold a comb?

How are combs disinfected?

· Tell us about the new developments of combs.

List the types of scissors.

Name the parts of scissors.

How should scissors be held while working?

What rules should be observed when working with scissors?

· List the types of razors, tell about their purpose.

Name the components straight razor and tell about the safety rules when working with it.

Tell us about hair clippers and how to use them.

List the types of curlers.

What tools are used for hair styling?

· List the tools for curling hair.

· Tell us about modified bobbins.

· List the main devices for hairdressing.

Tell about safety rules when working with electrical devices.

Haircut

Winding hair into bobbins

After a haircut, which is done on wet hair, it is not at all necessary to dry them, especially under dryer. When drying the hair under the apparatus, the stratum corneum of the hair hardens, as a result of which the perm preparation hardly penetrates through the scales of the surface layer. If it becomes necessary to dry your hair, it is better to do it. naturally. To speed up this process, you need to continuously comb them with a comb in different directions. Usually, 5 minutes is enough to naturally dry your hair.

There is an opinion, curl wet hair it is impossible due to the fact that in this case the composition is diluted and the curl may turn out to be weaker. This opinion is erroneous, although in reality such dilution does occur. However, wet hair absorbs the perm much faster, and required time shutter speed is not increased, and sometimes even reduced. The curl is natural, and the hair retains its original structure better, which is very an important factor, considering that the goal of the master is not only to make a good perm but also save the hair.

Before winding the hair into bobbins, it is necessary to separate hairline heads into sections (strands). The width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin. If a strand of hair is wider than the bobbin, then when winding it, it will not be possible to position it strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the bobbin. The latter is very important for getting a good curl. The strand of hair should be positioned and wound onto the bobbin in the same way as the threads on the bobbin.

Rice. 155

Usually, the hairline of the head is divided for winding onto bobbins as follows: horizontal partings are made on the right and left sides of the head to the back of the head approximately at the level of the eyebrows so that the strand of hair on the crown of the head corresponds in width to the bobbin. This strand of hair must be secured with a clip so that it does not interfere with subsequent operations. Then from the horizontal partings down to the ear both on the left and on the right sides the head should be parted vertically, observing the established width of the strands. These sections must also be secured with clamps. Then it is necessary to divide the hair remaining on the back of the head into three strands. To do this, you need to continue the horizontal partings made earlier at the level of the eyebrows from the back of the head down to the neck.

Rice. 156

Thus, the average strand of hair in width will correspond to the width of the strands on the crown. After that, they proceed to the processing of the side strands of hair for auricles. Usually on a medium-sized head, these strands in width meet the requirements. If the width of the strand exceeds the width of the bobbin, you can, for example, move the vertical parting a little back, behind the ear and then, due to the fact that part of the hair on the temple has become wider, separate a small strand from the side of the face for winding. This strand of hair is wound on a bobbin in a vertical position.

Rice. 157

Wrap your hair with thin rubber gloves to protect your hands from exposure to the composition on the skin. The operation begins with the middle strand of the occipital part of the head. It is not recommended to wet the entire strand with the composition. It is necessary to separate a small part of it - 3-4 cm - and moisten with the composition using foam sponge about 3/4 of its length starting from the ends. It is not recommended to wet the hair at the very roots in order to avoid harmful effects chemical composition on the scalp. After wetting a strand of hair in this way, a small part of it is separated - about 1 cm (depending on the thickness and length of the hair) - and wound onto a bobbin as shown in the figure.

When winding onto bobbins, you need to carefully twist the ends of the hair, otherwise the broken ends will stand out from the total mass. The combed strand is placed on the palm of the left hand, then the bobbin in the right hand is brought under the strand, and the ends of the hair of the prepared strand are captured with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. In this case, the bobbin is held by the end with the thumb and forefinger. right hand- This position is the starting point.

Rice. 158

Then the ends of the hair are placed on the bobbin so that they protrude 1–2 cm on one side. With the index finger of the left hand, the ends of the hair are bent inward in the direction of winding, and with the middle finger of the same hand they are pressed against the bobbin. Pressing the hair with your right hand, you should immediately pull the strand slightly perpendicular to the surface of the head.

Rice. 159

After this, the most crucial moment in winding follows: with the index finger of the left hand, with a quick sliding movement along the plane of the bobbin in the direction of winding, you need to bend the ends of the hair under the strand, and with the middle finger of the same hand, following the index finger, repeat its movement, as if securing it and pressing the hair to bobbin. At the moment when forefinger left hand will begin a sliding movement along the plane of the bobbin, bending the ends of the hair under the strand, index and thumb right hand, slightly loosening the tension of the strand, should quickly scroll the bobbin in the right direction. From the synchronism of the work of the three fingers of the left and two fingers of the right hand depends on the correct capture of the ends of the hair on the bobbins.

To acquire the skill in performing these techniques, from the very beginning of the development of a perm, you should try to accurately follow the proposed recommendations. The fingers of the right hand should not hold the bobbin tightly - they seem to support it, so that if the ends of the strand are wrinkled, the fingers, having met additional resistance, will feel it. The process of twisting the first 1.5–2 revolutions should be carried out easy fast movement.

Rice. 160

Then you need to release the fingers of the left hand and transfer them to the left end of the bobbin, and the fingers of the right, slightly pulling the strand captured on the bobbin, take their original position for the final twisting of the bobbin. In the same way, they wind it on bobbins and the rest of the hair.

The thickness of the winding bobbins should be changed depending on the thickness and length of the hair. On the neck and other parts of the head, where the hair is thin or short, thinner bobbins are used.

After the hair on the back of the head is wound on bobbins, they are moistened with a curling preparation.

The next stage is the winding of hair on the temporal areas, and then on the parietal. It is better to wind the hair of the parietal part of the head towards the forehead. During the winding of each strand, it is necessary to ensure that the hair is pulled strictly perpendicular to the surface of the head in the treated area. Otherwise, the hair curls unevenly, i.e. Bottom part strand curls closer to the root and its curl turns out to be steeper, and top part- farther from the root and its curl is weaker.

Compliance with the requirements when winding the hair in all parts of the head (uniform distribution of hair over the bobbin, tension of the strands) ensures a good curl.

Having wound all the hair on bobbins, it is necessary to moisten them with a curling preparation and cover with a warming cap. The exposure time of the preparation for curling on the hair in each case must be set depending on the property of the hair, the preparation used or at the request of the client.

When using the device for hair treatment with steam PA-1, the exposure time is reduced by one third. To determine the desired exposure time, it is necessary to unwind 3-4 curls in different parts of the head and check the elasticity of the curl. Special attention you should pay attention to the curls at the bottom of the head, behind the ears - they usually curl a little more difficult than the rest of the hair. If the curl is elastic, you can proceed to subsequent operations in accordance with the technological regime of hair treatment during perm. The time of exposure of the solution to the hair depends on the type of hair: for soft - 18-25 minutes; for normal - 16-18 minutes; for hard - 12-15 minutes.

Preparatory work

To perform perm hair, the following tools and devices are required:

1) a porcelain or enameled bowl with a volume of at least 50-60 ml, stable enough so that it does not tip over during work;

2) polyethylene or any other non-metal comb with a "tail";

3) thinning razor for cutting hair ( experienced master can cut hair with a straight razor);

4) measuring cylinder with a capacity of 50 ml with a division value of 5 ml;

5) wooden or plastic bobbins with elastic bands for fixing the strand of hair in a twisted state;

6) cotton wool and foam rubber sponges 10x10 cm in size for applying a fixer to the hair and 3x4 cm in size for applying the composition;

7) rubber gloves;

8) insulated cap made of polyethylene or any other waterproof material.

Note: If the hairdresser has a PA-1 device for steaming hair, there is no need to use an insulated cap.

Preparatory work before curling hair is carried out in the following order:

– external examination of the scalp and hair;

- checking the scalp for susceptibility to the chemical composition for curling;

- checking the condition of the hair when wetting them with the drug;

- preparation of tools and devices for curling.

An external examination of the scalp and hair before curling is necessary to identify various diseases, at which perm cannot be done. Contraindications are pronounced irritations on the skin, scratches, cuts, ulcers, etc. If diseases of this kind are detected, you should refuse to perform a perm, and the visitor should be advised to consult a doctor.

When examining the hair, you need to pay attention to their condition. In the event that the hair has previously been subjected to severe discoloration or staining with any other dye, it is necessary to check them for tearing: if the hair is easily torn off when dry, a curl should not be done. It is also not recommended to do a perm on hair dyed with "Restorer" or metal-containing paints.

After an external examination, it is necessary to check the reaction of the client's skin to irritation (idiosyncrasy) with the preparation with which the perm will be performed. It is most convenient to do this behind the auricle, since in this place the effect of the drug will be most noticeable. Take a piece of cotton wool moistened with the drug, and apply the composition to the skin in specified place. After 8-10 minutes, the skin reaction to the irritant is already visible. In the absence of irritation (redness), we can assume that this drug is not contraindicated for the client and therefore can be permed. If a pronounced skin irritation occurs, it is necessary to wash off the applied composition with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide and rinse the skin with water. In this case, the perm of hair should be abandoned. If the hairdresser has a curling product of a different composition, it is also necessary to check the reaction of the skin to irritation and, if negative, perm with this composition.

Simultaneously with checking the skin for irritation, it is necessary to check the reaction of the hair to the curling product. This will help to identify contraindications to curling unnoticed during external examination. It is necessary to take a small strand of hair and moisten it with a curling compound. After 1-2 minutes, you need to try it for a break. If the hair has retained its strength, then it is suitable for curling. If they have lost it and have a tow-like appearance, it is impossible to curl them with the composition of this concentration. In this case, it is necessary to dilute the composition with water in a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 and repeat the test. In this way, you can find the required concentration of the composition or make sure that the curl should be abandoned.

When preparing tools and devices for curling hair, the hairdresser must first of all make sure that everything you need is available. It is especially important to have enough bobbins of various thicknesses with elastic bands, as well as the necessary compositions for curling. The sharpness of the thinning razor blade should be checked and, if necessary, replaced with a new one. All tools and fixtures should be laid out in their places so that the master does not waste time finding them during work.

Washing your hair before perming is a necessary and important operation. The quality of the curl depends on how well it is done. When washing the hair, the hair is cleaned of fat and other contaminants that prevent the penetration of the composition into the deeper layers of the hair. That is why this type of work needs to be given the same attention as any other in a perm.

Regardless of how much time has passed since the last shampooing, hair should be washed before perming.

To wash your hair, you can use various detergents depending on the degree of hair contamination. If the hair is very oily, it is better to use liquid toilet soap which easily removes fat. For dry and normal hair shampoos work well. Combing hair after shampooing is recommended with a non-metal comb, as burrs and sharp edges on metal combs can damage hair softened after washing.

The haircut model is determined by the style of the future hairstyle. A haircut is the foundation of a hairstyle. The shape of the hairstyle also depends on the shape of the haircut. It is advisable to cut hair before perming with a thinning razor - with its help it is easier to get different lengths of hair in each strand. Naturally growing hair can be different lengths due to their constant renewal. This natural ratio in the length of the hair to a greater extent affects the duration of the perm. When cutting hair, it must be remembered that the best results with perm can be achieved on relatively short hair - up to 15–20 cm. However, longer hair can also be curled.

When thinning hair, the ends of the strands need to be made thinner so that they lie well in the hairstyle. On the neck and temples, if necessary, you can trim the hair with scissors. Cutting down thick layer hair in this case is not recommended. If the haircut is done correctly, there is no need to trim the hair with scissors.

Any haircut model before curling should be done so that even without curling, the hair has a finished, well-defined shape.

Winding hair into bobbins

After a haircut, which is done on wet hair, it is not at all necessary to dry them, especially under dryer. When drying the hair under the apparatus, the stratum corneum of the hair hardens, as a result of which the perm preparation hardly penetrates through the scales of the surface layer. If it becomes necessary to dry your hair, it is better to do it naturally. To speed up this process, you need to continuously comb them with a comb in different directions. Usually, 5 minutes is enough to naturally dry your hair.

There is an opinion that wet hair cannot be curled due to the fact that in this case the composition is diluted and the curl may turn out to be weaker. This opinion is erroneous, although in reality such dilution does occur. However, wet hair absorbs the curling agent much faster and the required holding time does not increase, and sometimes even shortens. The curl is natural, and the hair retains its original structure better, which is a very important factor, given that the goal of the master is not only to make a good curl, but also to preserve the hair.

Before winding the hair into bobbins, it is necessary to divide the scalp into sections (strands). The width of the strand should not exceed the length of the bobbin. If a strand of hair is wider than the bobbin, then when winding it, it will not be possible to position it strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the bobbin. The latter is very important for getting a good curl. The strand of hair should be positioned and wound onto the bobbin in the same way as the threads on the bobbin.

Rice. 155

Usually, the hairline of the head is divided for winding onto bobbins as follows: horizontal partings are made on the right and left sides of the head to the back of the head approximately at the level of the eyebrows so that the strand of hair on the crown of the head corresponds in width to the bobbin. This strand of hair must be secured with a clip so that it does not interfere with subsequent operations. Then, from the horizontal partings down to the ear, both on the left and on the right sides of the head, a vertical parting should be made, observing the established width of the strands. These sections must also be secured with clamps. Then it is necessary to divide the hair remaining on the back of the head into three strands. To do this, you need to continue the horizontal partings made earlier at the level of the eyebrows from the back of the head down to the neck.

Rice. 156

Thus, the average strand of hair in width will correspond to the width of the strands on the crown. After that, they proceed to the processing of the side strands of hair behind the auricles. Usually on a medium-sized head, these strands in width meet the requirements. If the width of the strand exceeds the width of the bobbin, you can, for example, move the vertical parting a little back, behind the ear and then, due to the fact that part of the hair on the temple has become wider, separate a small strand from the side of the face for winding. This strand of hair is wound on a bobbin in a vertical position.

Rice. 157

Wrap your hair with thin rubber gloves to protect your hands from exposure to the composition on the skin. The operation begins with the middle strand of the occipital part of the head. It is not recommended to wet the entire strand with the composition. It is necessary to separate a small part of it - 3-4 cm - and moisten with the composition using a foam sponge about 3/4 of its length, starting from the ends. It is not recommended to wet the hair at the very roots in order to avoid the harmful effects of the chemical composition on the scalp. After wetting a strand of hair in this way, a small part of it is separated - about 1 cm (depending on the thickness and length of the hair) - and wound onto a bobbin as shown in the figure.

When winding onto bobbins, you need to carefully twist the ends of the hair, otherwise the broken ends will stand out from the total mass. The combed strand is placed on the palm of the left hand, then the bobbin in the right hand is brought under the strand, and the ends of the hair of the prepared strand are captured with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. At the same time, the bobbin is held by the end with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand - this position is the starting one.

Rice. 158

Rice. 159

After this, the most crucial moment in winding follows: with the index finger of the left hand, with a quick sliding movement along the plane of the bobbin in the direction of winding, you need to bend the ends of the hair under the strand, and with the middle finger of the same hand, following the index finger, repeat its movement, as if securing it and pressing the hair to bobbin. At the moment when the index finger of the left hand begins to slide along the plane of the bobbin, bending the ends of the hair under the strand, the index and thumb of the right hand, slightly loosening the tension of the strand, should quickly scroll the bobbin in the right direction. From the synchronism of the work of the three fingers of the left and two fingers of the right hand depends on the correct capture of the ends of the hair on the bobbins.

To acquire the skill in performing these techniques, from the very beginning of the development of a perm, you should try to accurately follow the proposed recommendations. The fingers of the right hand should not hold the bobbin tightly - they seem to support it, so that if the ends of the strand are wrinkled, the fingers, having met additional resistance, will feel it. The process of twisting the first 1.5–2 turns should be carried out with a light, quick movement.

Rice. 160

After the hair on the back of the head is wound on bobbins, they are moistened with a curling preparation.

The next stage is the winding of hair on the temporal areas, and then on the parietal. It is better to wind the hair of the parietal part of the head towards the forehead. During the winding of each strand, it is necessary to ensure that the hair is pulled strictly perpendicular to the surface of the head in the treated area. Otherwise, the hair curls unevenly, i.e. the lower part of the strands curls closer to the root and its curl is steeper, and the upper part is further from the root and its curl is weaker.

Compliance with the requirements when winding the hair in all parts of the head (uniform distribution of hair over the bobbin, tension of the strands) ensures a good curl.

Having wound all the hair on bobbins, it is necessary to moisten them with a curling preparation and cover with a warming cap. The exposure time of the perm product on the hair in each case must be set depending on the property of the hair, the product used or at the request of the client.

When using the device for hair treatment with steam PA-1, the exposure time is reduced by one third. To determine the desired exposure time, it is necessary to unwind 3-4 curls in different parts of the head and check the elasticity of the curl. Particular attention should be paid to the curls at the bottom of the head, behind the ears - they usually curl a little more difficult than the rest of the hair. If the curl is elastic, you can proceed to subsequent operations in accordance with the technological regime of hair treatment during perm. The time of exposure of the solution to the hair depends on the type of hair: for soft - 18-25 minutes; for normal - 16-18 minutes; for hard - 12-15 minutes.

Rinsing with water

So that there is no curling agent left on the hair, the head is rinsed with a plentiful stream of warm running water for 4-5 minutes. Given that the hair is twisted, the procedure should be performed very carefully.

Curl fixation

After rinsing your hair, you can begin to fix the curls in a twisted position. To this end, the master prepares special compound- fixer, which is hydrogen peroxide 3-5% concentration. In the composition of the fixer, you need to add a certain amount soapy shampoo for viscosity. The fixer is prepared immediately before applying it to the hair and used immediately after preparation.

Fixer composition:

1. For short hair:

- 2 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

- 20 ml of warm water,

- 15 ml of shampoo.

2. For long hair:

– 4 tablets of 6% hydroperite,

- 40 ml of warm water,

- 15 ml of shampoo.

In the absence of hydroperite, perhydrol of 30% concentration is used.

Pour into a non-metallic bowl:

- 40 ml of warm water,

- 15 ml of shampoo,

- 8-10 ml of perhydrol 30% concentration.

The resulting solution should contain about 5% hydrogen peroxide.

Having again tied a towel twisted into a tourniquet on the head to protect the face from the fixer, the latter is foamed with a foam rubber sponge and each bobbin is carefully treated with it, moistening it with plenty of solution. It is very important to evenly distribute the fixing composition between the bobbins. Because component fixer - gaseous oxygen - disappears very quickly, the fixing solution must be constantly foamed and moistened with hair.

After applying about 1/3 of the entire solution and keeping the fixative on the hair for 5-10 minutes, carefully (so as not to unnecessarily stretch the curls) remove all the bobbins. In conclusion, the remaining fixer is applied to the hair for another 5 minutes.

After that, the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water without shampoo.

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keeps the volume for a long time regardless of weather conditions; powder can be used for styling almost any hair - straight and wavy, obedient and not very; it has a matting property, therefore, unlike the situation when varnish or gel is used, the hair does not look greasy. In addition, the powder does not stick the hair together, allows you to maintain the naturalness of their movement, does not weigh down the hair; modeling a hairstyle with it is not at all difficult, even novice users can easily achieve the effect of romantic negligence, the same as that of catwalk stars or other celebrities; a hairstyle created with powder can be corrected during the day: if it has lost volume, return it simply by tousling the curls; With this product, the hair is able to keep fresh up to 3 days; the modeling composition does not cause dandruff, does not weigh down, does not stick curls; when laying curls with powder, a comb is not required; strands look more natural than when using strong varnish; cosmetic product has an acceptable cost, one package is enough for a long time; with the help of powder short strands you can create a fashionable "sloppy" hairstyle.

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226 rub

Many girls like to experiment with their appearance and change their hairstyles. Those who prefer curly hair, know about the variety of shapes, textures of curls, and also the fact that "chemistry" helps to become the owner of curls for a long time. One of these methods long-term styling is a vertical perm.

Let's find out everything about this styling method - who it suits, the execution technology, the advantages and disadvantages, what kind of tools and compositions are used, and also how to do a vertical perm of hair at home.

What is a vertical perm

Perm was invented in a vertical way back in the 60s of the twentieth century, however, it gained wide popularity only by the end of the 80s, when long curly hair came into fashion.

The advantageous difference of this method is that the length of the hair does not affect the quality of the curl - the curl is equally elastic from root to tip.

The vertical winding method is successfully used for curling haircuts of any style. This the only way, which can curl hair cut "under the caret".

Perm in a vertical way is suitable for even the toughest and most heavy hair and looks impressive after a long time. Vertical styling visually increases the volume of the hairstyle, however, significantly reduces the length of the hair due to the intense curl.

Hair curling scheme

Before you start performing a vertical perm, you need to study the scheme of winding hair various lengths and follow it exactly.

The layout of the bobbins for long and medium hair is the same. For short haircuts there is a separate order of wrapping. Failure to comply with the conditions of creping will inevitably lead to the fact that the curls will stick out in different sides. Generally appearance hairstyles after such a curl will turn out to be careless, with the effect of incomplete winding.

Crepe for long and medium hair

Standard step by step diagram creping for vertical perm on medium and long hair, next.

Divide the hair into squares starting from the lower occipital part of the head.
The area of the square should not exceed the diameter of the base of the curler.
You need to wind the strands on the bobbins in one direction.
Make sure that the hair is not in tension, but simply wound tightly.
It is necessary to start creping strands from the lower occipital part, gradually rising. Having reached the crown, proceed to winding the temporal sections. Having finished working with the temples, go to the top of the head. The uppermost zone of the hairline is wound from the frontal part, moving towards the top of the head.

Vertical perm on very long hair (below the waist) is often difficult, because the wound strand does not fit on the curlers. This problem is easily solved if the rest of the hair continues to be wound on another bobbin.

Crepe for short hair

It should be remembered that there are exceptions to every rule and not all haircut styles can be wound according to the standard scheme. So, winding up for vertical "chemistry" on short hair must be done in a circle. You should go down from the crown to the occipital and temporal zones, while capturing the parietal part of the hairline.

the trimmed lower occipital part of a short haircut does not wind up

This scheme is due to the peculiarities of short haircuts, where the clipped lower occipital part simply does not reach out to make at least one turn around the bobbin.

The nuances of creping for haircuts with bangs

bangs do not twist

Technological nuances also exist with vertical curling on medium hair, if there is a contrasting bang. Owners of the Cleopatra bangs or any other, the length of which is shorter than the bridge of the nose, if you want to make a perm, you need to take into account the following subtleties.

The winding of the parietal zone is made from the crown. The direction of the curler should be "from the face."
The bang itself is not wound, because after curling it will visually shorten, and will stick out in different directions.

If you do not want to leave a straight bang, then it is better to postpone the curling procedure until it grows at least to the middle of the nose.

Tools for vertical "chemistry"

Curling by the vertical method cannot be done with conventional tools. For this, special curlers are needed for vertical waving, which come in two varieties - cone-shaped and straight with a hole at the base. They are made of thermoceramic, plastic or silicone. The ceramic tool is most often used for permanent "chemistry".

Bobbins for vertical perms also need special ones. They come in two shapes - spiral and straight, and also have a hole. For manufacturing use: wood, silicone or plastic. In work, wooden bobbins are very inconvenient, because they absorb bad smell, dry out for a long time and crack if dried on a battery or other heat sources.

conical curlers and spiral bobbins

Before you start winding, you need to pass the strand into the hole at the base of the curler. This will require a special puller, the design of which resembles a needle threader. A strand of hair separated by partings should first be passed through the threading device, and the puller itself should be inserted into the hole of the bobbin or curler and only then wound. This is necessary so that the hair is held securely and does not unwind.

When "chemistry" is done on cone curlers, then the diameter of the second bobbin should be the same as the lower part of the first. If you do not follow this rule, then the finished curl will be uneven and broken.

Papillots for horizontal "chemistry" are not suitable for the vertical curling method.

Hair breakage test

In order for the curl to be elastic and for a long time retained its helical shape, thioglycolic acid-based formulations and alkaline agents are used high concentration, which actively affect the hair. Therefore, before curling, do not forget to test one strand for brittleness. To do this, cut off a few hairs and treat them with a curling agent. After the exposure time, check the strand for stretching and breaking. If its structure has become wadded, rubbery or torn, then the vertical curling method should be abandoned in favor of a more gentle method.

If you are not going to deviate from your intentions and have definitely decided to do this particular type of long-term styling, then use the hair restoration procedures in a beauty salon. After the course of treatment, the test should be repeated. If the strand under the influence of the drug has not changed its properties, then feel free to perm. But in the case when the hair is still breaking, then the vertical “chemistry” will still have to be abandoned.

How to do a vertical perm

The technology for performing vertical perm requires certain professional skills, since the wetting of the strands with the composition is carried out immediately before winding. This is due to the fact that if it is applied in advance, the part of the strand pulled through the hole of the bobbin remains untreated with the preparation.

Execution technology

For getting good result from performing vertical perm, the following conditions must be observed.

Rinse hair thoroughly with shampoo deep cleaning without using a balm or conditioner.
Divide the hairline with partings into squares equal to the base of the curlers.
Before winding, moisten each strand with a curling agent using a sponge.
Maintain the exact time specified in the instructions for the drug.
Rinse off with plenty of warm water without removing the bobbin.
Apply the fixing phase to the hair and wait half the indicated time.
Remove the bobbins, apply the fixing phase again and keep it for the remaining time.
Wash your hair with a stabilizing shampoo to stop the chemical reaction inside the hair. Then treat with a special balm that smoothes the scaly layer.

Laying

In order not to break the shape of the curls, you should use special curlers or curling irons for vertical curling of hair for styling. If you prefer curling irons, then you need to choose them with a thermostat. This allows you to control operating temperature heated surface of the tool, so as not to damage the hair structure. After a perm, a slight porosity may appear inside the hair, so styling using high temperatures they are contraindicated. Thermal exposure should not exceed 190 °C.

Curling irons for vertical curling of hair differ from ordinary ones in the absence of a special clamping “tongue”. The shape of the tool for such styling can be:

cylindrical;
cylindrical with a spiral recess;
conical;
conical with a spiral slot;
oval;
triangular;
square.

The last three forms of flats are rarely found on the market. You can buy them in specialized professional stores for masters of the beauty industry.

The notch on the curling iron helps to make curls of elastic texture.

Vertical chemical biowave

Perm in a vertical way implies a hard, elastic curl with a pronounced texture, therefore, potent compounds are used for this procedure. But you can carry out a vertical curl of hair in a gentle way. In this case, biological preparations are used, which consist of a complex of amino acids and gently form a disulfide bond. vertical chemical biowave will differ in the lightness of the resulting curls, but will last on the hair for no more than three months.

Gentle formulations with low concentration active ingredients not recommended for vertical perm hair. A weakly formed disulfide bond will give a quick deformation of the curls.

The technological process of vertical "biochemistry" is no different from standard method this perm.

Biowave in the vertical way of wrapping on boomerang curlers

Vertical waving at home

If you decide to do “chemistry” outside the hairdresser, you should know that it is strictly forbidden to deviate from the technological instructions for the curling procedure.

Do not replace special shampoos and balms with homemade daily care products.
Professional curlers for vertical curling at home cannot be replaced with household ones.
Tools for home use cannot be used for procedures provided by beauty salons.

If your decision to conduct "chemistry" at home has remained unchanged, and you have everything you need for this at hand, then you should practice your skills in working with bobbins and a puller. You need to learn how to quickly wind your hair on curlers, since a potent composition is used that is applied to the strands before creping.

Make sure the area where you plan to do the perm is well ventilated. Don't forget to test for skin sensitivity. This will help to avoid allergic reactions during the procedure.

Be sure to use protective waterproof accessories (peignoir, gloves). Do not use metal tools when working with chemicals.

In conclusion, we recall that vertical perm is a long-term styling procedure carried out by exposing the hair to a concentrated preparation. The main advantages of vertical "chemistry" is that it allows you to forget about curling irons and irons for six months, solves the problem fatty roots and also visually increases the volume of hair. But every procedure has drawbacks and vertical perm is no exception. The main disadvantage is that it cannot be carried out on weakened hair. Home conditions are not quite suitable for professional procedure vertical perm, however, if you follow the wrapping rule, you can get quite a good result. In general, vertical "chemistry" is great way become curly for a long period of time.

An example of a vertical curl - before and after

Bobbins for horizontal perms are of the same type in terms of device and differ only in size. They are made from wood or plastic. The length of the bobbin is from 6 to 10 cm. The diameter of the middle part of the bobbin is 1.5-2 times less than the diameter of the middle part, about 3 mm, the thickest ones are 10-12 mm.

8. List and describe the types of equipment used in hairdressing salons: purpose, rules of operation and disinfection. .

traditionally consists of a dressing table, a mirror, an armchair and a footstool for the client. Depending on the interior of the cabin, a sink may also be located in the workplace.

The shape and size of the mirror can be different, but it should not be less than 60 x 100 cm. Dressing tables also come in various shapes. They can be permanently attached, they can have additional mobile carts of various shapes, but in any case they must be provided with drawers for storing tools. Moisture and hair must be easily removed from the cover of tables and carts, so they are most often made of plastic.

The hairdressing chair must have a backrest, armrests and a headrest. A semi-soft chair should be covered with a material that does not absorb moisture and hair, have a hydraulic lift and rotate freely around its axis.

Workplaces in the workroom can be located anywhere, but the distance between them should not be less than 1 m.

The workplace can be supplemented with a special mobile chair for the master, as many haircuts can be done while sitting. The master's chair should not have armrests, it should be easy to move and have a device for adjusting the height.

Currently, sinks are most often located in the workroom, but separately from the workplaces. They are equipped with a special chair, a flexible hose and a special recess for the convenience of washing hair with the head tilted back.

Before the start of serving visitors, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work.

Before inviting a client, you need to remove workplace, wipe down the dressing table and armchair, put dirty laundry in the utility room, sweep your hair and clean the sink. Inviting the client to pass, the master stands to the right of the chair and turns it towards the client. During a conversation with a client, the master finds out what type of work (service) he is interested in, and, if necessary, can offer additional types services. Next, the master must inform the client of the cost of the work.

At the next stage, the master in the presence of the client washes his hands and disinfects the tools.

In work, the master should have three sets of tools: he works with one, the second is disinfected, the third is sharpened or kept in stock.

Then, to diagnose the hair, the master carefully combs it. In the process of combing, the master determines the type, quality, condition and direction of hair growth. If the master detects any contagious disease of the skin or hair, he must, in a very correct manner, refuse to serve the client.

Preparatory work most often ends with hygienic washing of hair. However, the type of main work may determine the conduct of other preparatory work, for example, a test for skin sensitivity to chemicals, dilution of dyes, preparation of medicinal preparations, etc.

Usually, four types of linen are used in a hairdresser's: peignoir, towels, napkins and cape.

Peignoir is used for all types of work. Synthetic peignoir is used for cutting, perm and hair treatment. Oilcloth peignoir is used for hair coloring. Disposable polyethylene peignoir can be used for any type of work.

Under synthetic and oilcloth peignoirs, it is imperative to put a paper collar or disposable cotton napkin, as they are used throughout the entire work shift.

Towels are used only when washing hair. Two towels are required per client.

Cotton napkins measuring 75 x 40 cm are used when shaving the face and head, washing and cutting hair, as well as fixing a perm.

Synthetic cape is used for hair styling.

Currently, when dyeing and cold styling hair, special collars made of thin rubber are also used.

After completing the main type of work, the master asks if the client is satisfied with everything, and, if not, corrects the shortcomings. Then he performs the necessary additional types of services (drying hair, styling, fixing with varnish, etc.), removes hairdressing underwear and receives payment for services.

9. List the goals of shampooing technology, describe each goal: purpose, technology, types of shampoo, methods of washing your hair.

Shampooing is important hygiene procedure. All types of hairdressing work, with the exception of hair coloring with dyes containing hydrogen peroxide, are performed on clean, freshly washed hair. Wet hair more elastic and easily take on one form or another, strongly stretched and not torn. In addition, shampooing is necessary to remove the fat that is secreted. sebaceous glands scalp. If you do not wash your hair regularly, then the sweat and fat released, mixing with skin flakes and dirt, will create favorable conditions for pathogenic bacteria that cause skin diseases.

Shampooing has three purposes:

removal of pollution from hair (hygienic);

removal of traces of the previous installation (deformation);

loosening the outer layer of the hair (preparatory).

There are also three types of hair washing:

hygienic - using ordinary shampoo;

therapeutic - using medical preparations;

dry - using dry shampoo, produced in aerosols, or alcohol.

Most often, hygienic washing of the head is performed. As you know, water has cleansing properties. In hygienic washing, shampoo is needed only to increase the effectiveness of its impact. Shampoos contain substances that can cleanse the hair of dirt, grease and styling products. The sebum secreted sebaceous glands, does not dissolve in water, but under the action of shampoo it turns into tiny droplets and is washed out with water.

To get a good result, it is very important to choose the right shampoo and prepare the water.

Depending on the type and content of inorganic compounds, soft and hard water are distinguished.

IN soft water contained a small amount of inorganic compounds, so the shampoo lathers very well in it. In hard water, on the contrary, there are a lot of inorganic compounds, so the soapiness of the shampoo decreases. Hard water can be softened by adding borax or soda to it.

Before choosing a shampoo, you must correctly determine the type of hair. Shampoos for damaged hair must contain substances that can improve their appearance. If your hair is oily, you need a special shampoo.

The existing opinion that frequent washing increases their fat content is incorrect. Very greasy hair can be washed every day.

To keep your hair intact and give it shine, you need to be very careful in choosing a shampoo, especially when frequent washing hair. Too strong or incorrectly selected shampoo can damage the hair. Gentle, mild preparations, on the contrary, due to their healing properties improve the condition of the scalp and eliminate damage to the hair structure.

It is very important to choose a shampoo with the required pH level, which characterizes the acid-base environment of the cosmetic product. The pH level can range from 1 to 14. A shampoo with a pH of 7 is considered neutral (neither alkaline nor acidic). At pH > 7 the shampoo is alkaline. The lower the pH value, the higher the acidity of the shampoo.

Most shampoos are neutral or match the pH of the skin (5.5) or hair. Such shampoos are more preferred for washing hair.

The shampoo cleanses the hair and scalp. Detergent base all shampoos are surfactants that serve to cleanse the hair. In addition to surfactants, shampoos include hair care and protection substances, functional additives, preservatives, active therapeutic ingredients, and foaming agents.

Shampoo classification

Shampoos are divided into liquid and concentrated shampoos.

All concentrated shampoos must be diluted 1:1 with water before use.

By appointment, all shampoos can be divided into four types: ordinary, special (including "2 in 1" - shampoo and rinse conditioner), therapeutic and special purposes.

Ordinary shampoos most often require the use of other cosmetics(rinse aids, etc.).

Special Shampoos- These are mild shampoos, they can be used every day. They do not harm the hair and do not irritate the scalp, as they have a neutral pH level.

Medicated shampoos, designed for "problem", especially sensitive and damaged hair, contain special medicinal preparations.

Special purpose shampoos are used before or after perm or hair coloring. They neutralize the remnants of the oxidizing agent, strengthen the hair, make it more durable, close the cuticle scales, etc.